RustyRuu Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 I never got how some people can do transmission with jack stands. if thats all you have, you make it work, yup its a pain in the ass for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 I spent my new years day putting my BE back together. New clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, swapped transmissions to one with out a blown out VC. diff fluids change. new battery, and new air and oil filters. Went with the kart boy shifter bushings front and back and there transmission bracket bushings. new oem pitchstop and transmission mount oh boy is it like a new car now. Edit: pictures of in progress. https://imgur.com/a/y60zo Good work! Transmissions scare me. I have never even done a clutch simply because I have never done it before or had anyone that knows better around. Hopefully I will never have to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Yeah I've done it before on jack stands in a carport for clutch and pressure plate swaps. It's a major pain in the ass for sure but can be done. I think the vc was just ready to give up the ghost from previous owners neglect of the tires and when I cracked everthing open the gears all had rust spots on the non contact faces indicating at some point someone neglected gear oil changes. Had it aligned today too. Looks like one set of the rear bushings are about ready for a swap too. Hello all urethane bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Well today I finally got to replace my turn signal/dimmer/headlight combination switch that worked maybe 20% of the time signal my lane changes and turns. Felt dangerous... A few months ago I took the assembly apart cleaned everything and re-lubed everything and seemed to work for about 2 months but recently it is just scary not being able to signal. Anyways the part came to less than $90 at SubaruGenuineParts.com (they have online discounts for OEM parts and are local for me). Subaru Part # 83118FC030 Only took about 10 minutes to do. Hardest part is finding both screws to release the top steering cover. Previous owner already broke the bottom screw off... So I just did the same they did and hid electrical tape around it to hold it all together. I have never been so excited to be able to signal turns and lane changes in all my life... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I have never been so excited to be able to signal turns and lane changes in all my life... Sounds like you will never own a BMW in your life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Sounds like you will never own a BMW in your life. While I have eyed them before I think the cost of maintenance is more a deterrent than the behavior associated with the typical beamer driver. I am a bit type A. Can you tell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I greased my steering linkage, put a exhaust bolt that was missing in and putty'd up my exhaust leak where I did the new donut and spring bolt kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 While not a doing per say I recently discovered my alternator is whining a lot at higher engine RPMs. So I am waiting to remove it to have a local shop rebuilt it for me (replacing bearings, brushes & springs, and a new voltage regulator). I was quoted it would be around $95. The local Subaru dealer sells a reman for $330! 0__0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I greased my steering linkage, put a exhaust bolt that was missing in and putty'd up my exhaust leak where I did the new donut and spring bolt kit. Yeah, when I upgraded my steering bushings with Whiteline I used special "marine grease" all over the contact points as it will get very wet down there and needs to stay greasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 same, with the water grade red grease when i rebuilt my front end, the other thing i did was went to the ball joints that have the grease zerk fittings built into them from Beck and Arnley. if i had the forsight and time i would have prepped all the moving joints on the front end (rear and front lca busings) to have a zerk fitting channel to hit with the gun every time i do an oil change...... maybe something i do this year when i rebuild the rear end... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I replaced my rear sway bar with a 03 outback's (it's 16mm stock is 14mm)the links are the same I just needed the bigger bushings bolted up fine. I cut the links in half and popped cap off used vise grips and a open end wrench. Also did the rear calipers since the rubber on the piston seal was shot and the slide pins were stiff. I'm not getting fluid to the calipers so I'm going to try and gravity bleed them. Vaccum and standard pump the pedal didn't work, probably cause I had the car too far in the air. I have three more things left on my list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I replaced my rear sway bar with a 03 outback's (it's 16mm stock is 14mm)the links are the same I just needed the bigger bushings bolted up fine. That is good to know. Is it only the 2003 Outback rear sway bars that fit or is it a range on the Outback models? Thanks for the information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I replaced my rear sway bar with a 03 outback's (it's 16mm stock is 14mm)the links are the same I just needed the bigger bushings bolted up fine. I cut the links in half and popped cap off used vise grips and a open end wrench. Also did the rear calipers since the rubber on the piston seal was shot and the slide pins were stiff. I'm not getting fluid to the calipers so I'm going to try and gravity bleed them. Vaccum and standard pump the pedal didn't work, probably cause I had the car too far in the air. I have three more things left on my list. You'll have to post back about how the sway bar affects the driving of the car ive looked at doing the same with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 2003-2004 outback is 16mm, Baja turbo is 17 and base is 16mm if I recall Hopefully I get more neutral handling but the rear links were shot since I've had the car so im sure it will feel way better no matter what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Replaced my master cylinder since the piston rusted up and froze. I think it froze when I tried to pump bleed it. I've notice the car's handling is super tight and it doesn't have a lot of oversteering any more. Not sure if it was the new bigger link or the bigger sway bar but I'm happy with it over all. I only paid 50$ for the bar from a junkyard and 8$ for moog bushings and 18$ for the endlinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrio Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Replaced my master cylinder since the piston rusted up and froze. I think it froze when I tried to pump bleed it. I've notice the car's handling is super tight and it doesn't have a lot of oversteering any more. Not sure if it was the new bigger link or the bigger sway bar but I'm happy with it over all. I only paid 50$ for the bar from a junkyard and 8$ for moog bushings and 18$ for the endlinks. I'm all about cheap mods. Thanks for the info Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 No problem i would suggest new sway bar links first then the bigger rear bar to notice a difference if there is one I did everything at once so I'm not sure what had the most effect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 No problem i would suggest new sway bar links first then the bigger rear bar to notice a difference if there is one I did everything at once so I'm not sure what had the most effect Are these the bigger Moog sway bar endlinks you installed on your car? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V5072U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_13?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER I am just curious if I found the correct ones. Where did you find them for $18? Thanks for all your input and help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Advanced auto parts drive works brand, they are greaseable too and I work there so there's that. Also lifetime warranty so pretty much free end links for life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Well as some of you already know I recently: alternator rebuilt (twice in one week!)replaced alternator belt w/ Continental Elite 4050350 Poly-V / Serpentine Beltreplaced AC idler pulley w/ Gates 38030patched hole in alternator cover from wrong alternator pulley w/ JB Plastic Gap Fillerpainted my alternator belt cover blue (to match spark plugs and cover some rust)installed a new AUKEY Dash Cam DR-01 & hid wires in trimre-installed red LEDs into instrument cluster and replaced misc instrument cluster bulbs Timing Belt Cover Hole http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170128_181715.jpg Patched Hole http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170129_122130.jpg Clean Engine Bay http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170128_165614.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Adjusted my valves and replaced all associated gaskets. Super clean covers. Change your oil guys. Changed the fucked up shifter joint also. You almost always have to drill out the roll pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I didnt do it but had all the big dents pulled, stripped to metal and then resquirted in the OEM forest green. now to go round and paint the mirrors and grill in trim black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Changed my control arm bushings. Check out my video. Like Subscribe and comment let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrUK45oUSPo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Changed my control arm bushings. Check out my video. Like Subscribe and comment let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrUK45oUSPo Not bad for a first video. Was it $88 for EACH control arm bearing? Man that is pricey. Where did you buy from? Ebay? Is there any noticable difference you can feel when you drive? Do you know if there are as easily replaced bushings on the rear of the car? Thanks for all you contribute. I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I did the same whiteline ones for mine with all the other components on the front end. Got to say it was worth it, the dead spot in the center of the steering is gone and the turn in feels way more responsive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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