RumbleRumble Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 88$ total for 44$ a bushing link is in the video description Brakeing is 35% better for sure Not my first video just first time doing a larger task and filming Thanks for the feedback and you are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Insulated my trunk with some cheap home depot stuff to reduce the drone from my exhaust, Check it out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgGs5PZrNIw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Gave it a bath and wax best its looked in ages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Wdyd2d https://imgur.com/gallery/LBKGT Popped the grill out knocked it down with some sandpaper and gave it a fresh coat of trim black. Looks good meow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLsubedrvr Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Swapped off the winter tires two weeks ago, (right before it snowed), doh! Fresh oil change w/ QS hi-mile Syn blend 5-30 & Sube filter. Cleaned off hood latch w/ PB blaster & followed w/ light coat of White Lith. Had to replace a 1.5 yr old water pump & struggled w/ decision to replace same age T-belt kit...but had the mechanic do-it. So it's running fine & ready to roll. Still need a HVAC control unit .... anybody got one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Installed a cool 5$ usb port in place of my cigarette lighter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhdmx4aipNI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Put in my ebay headers. Video up soon as well as sounds clips. Love the noise it makes now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Well I used the MOPAR Combustion Chamber cleaner as I have read and heard online that it is suppose to work better than Seafoam. I had the car warmed up from a 10-15 minute drive and while it was on I sprayed the can directly into the throttle body of the car until the can was about empty and then turned the car off and let it sit for about 12-15 hours (people say to do at least 6 hours). I started it up the next day and got a very small amount of smoke out the exhaust and did not really notice any difference when driving. The throttle did stick once where it wanted to stay open on a cold start, but a quick throttle blip caused it to go away. It has been almost a week of driving it and still no real change except that it some times has a slight hesitation on startup that was not there before. Anyone else have a similar ho-hum experience with MOPAR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 sounds like you did you it too long and all the cleaner ran to the bottom of the oil pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 sounds like you did you it too long and all the cleaner ran to the bottom of the oil pan. Yeah, that could be. The Mopar is supposed to foam up on the inside but given enough time it could seep out. I did it at like 2:00 pm and didn't start the car up until 8:00 am the next day so that could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 I replaces my crappy header gaskets with turbo OEM wrx gaskets. I knew i shouldnt of have used the ebay ones it came with. also replaced my ball joints with OEM ones. Moog ones throw all the grease out when you press then in to the control arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrio Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 Got tired of sounding so quiet so I did a little muffler delete. Not to loud but its a little something and only cost me $20 for parts.[emoji106] Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 . Moog ones throw all the grease out when you press then in to the control arm. good to know because i was just about to buy them. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 yeah the OEM ones have a plastic "retainer" to stop that. when you put the moog ones in the boot just slides up to the stud and bottoms out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I replaced my lowbeam headlights with the Sylvania Xtrabright and re-cleared them again with 3M headlight polish and the 3M polisher on my drill and again sealed them up with Bluemagic headlight sealant. I found out that my headlights are not aimed correctly though, so I need to address that at some point. Buggers need an 8mm wrench that a socket won't fit in with an adapter on my 3/4 wrench. I will have to get out my toolbox later to do that. Anyone off the top of their head know how tall the low beams are suppose to be from the ground? I found this guide for high beams, but it seems a bit complicated... http://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/how-to-aim-headlights-driving-beam-or-high-beam-headlights/ This seems to suggest low beams right in front of a wall, half a tank of gas, correct tire pressure should be 3.5 feet off the ground. http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights Update: The procedures online seem to indicate the headlights should be aimed 2 inches below from where the actual headlight bulb is located. So I will have to measure and do all that later when I have time to use someone else's garage or play around in a parking lot in front of a wall in the darkness of night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I like your rain meter in the back of your car man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrio Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Haha. I will change it out in the winter Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Just put a flapper on it! Flappers are dope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrio Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 That was one thought I was toying with Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochesterCanuck Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Replaced the thermostat, radiator and hoses on my 02 Legacy Wagon. OEM thermostat, Spectra radiator, and Gates hoses. I accidentally partially kinked one of my ATF tubes trying to get a stubborn ATF hose off. Hopefully that doesn't cause too much of an issue. Going to go flush and burp now. (Then replace my coolant!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochesterCanuck Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Well, the steel ATF line now has a nice little leak. I hope those are replaceable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochesterCanuck Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Went out and bought a $10 mini handheld pipe cutter. Cut the ATF line right before the leak. Stuck the hose back on the good pipe. No more leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Went out and bought a $10 mini handheld pipe cutter. Cut the ATF line right before the leak. Stuck the hose back on the good pipe. No more leak. Good work. ------------- Well I changed out my one year old cabin air filter. There was a lot of debri inside the box, which surprised me. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170627_143110.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170627_143125.jpg I even took out the fan to clean it, but it is a bit difficult to get in and out as there is an electric cable running right below it so that was a challenge. I think I need to replace it one of these days as it can be pretty loud. After a recent car wash I am reminded that my trunk still leaks water too. Does anyone know if it is common to leak from the spoiler? I am thinking about removing it, cleaning it and using new rubber sealant around the bolts... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170626_160006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170626_160006.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 ive got a wingless 02 sedan and i have yet to crawl into the trunk to find the leak but mine leaks like crazy too and ive got a good trunk gasket, i think its one of the window drains is plugged/broken. my intermittent fix was to pull the two tire well drain plugs out and let it drain there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisky86 Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 ive got a wingless 02 sedan and i have yet to crawl into the trunk to find the leak but mine leaks like crazy too and ive got a good trunk gasket, i think its one of the window drains is plugged/broken. my intermittent fix was to pull the two tire well drain plugs out and let it drain there. Yeah that is what I have been doing, but I have been looking for a more permanent solution. Well I tried to do that today.... Long story short is that it did not go well and I need to figure out how to secure a spoiler bolt that broke free of the spoiler. Long story is this... I was just going to take off the spoiler and add some rubber sealant to the bolt holes... Then I made the mistake of taking off a bolt with the trunk at 90 degrees and dropped the bolt inside the trunk lid... So THEN I took the trunk lid off and was able to catch the nut inside the trunk lid and discovered that in between the arms and the lid there was tons of rust... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170630_154048.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170630_154053.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/brisky86/IMG_20170630_154114.jpg Next I removed the rust with a wire brush, applied some rust converter (let dry), and then some primer (let dry), managed to get trunk lid back on the car by myself. I got the driver's side on spoiler bolts without issue and applied rubber sealant on the top of the bolt holes and on the nuts. Now for the BAD part. On the driver's side, the top spoiler nut broke free inside the plastic housing and just spun in place. The only way I was able to get the nut off was to break the bolt free of the spoiler. So now I have half of a spoiler on and water tight with the other side held on with only one bolt and NOT water tight. I was going to use JB Weld to put the bolt back in place, but when I went to clean what was left of the bolt hole all the plastic fell back inside itself and now I just have a giant hole that I need to figure some way to reattach the spoiler bolt to the spoiler and am not sure if it can be done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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