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Did anyone change the rear lower control arm after lowering?


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I just sent SPC an email to see if this fits the 5th gen Legacy. It seems we share the same LCA with wrx/sti/forester and brz so hopefully it does.

 

I am pretty sure BRZ/FRS are sharing this same part with 5th. gen legacy. This part number (692 474L) is mostly referenced to FRS/BRZ LCA but the installation manual is for BM/BR.

 

I picked up one from a local guy that is parting out his FRS. Painting the LCA with Grimspeed Cherry Blossom Red, pictures to follow.

 

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/CuscoLCA_zpsd6dc8529.jpg

 

Added some pictures

 

Primed

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/DSC_0004_zps9872e092.jpg

 

Painted

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/DSC_0029_zpsad0aeb8a.jpg

 

Installed

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/DSC_0032_zps0c602479.jpg

 

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/DSC_0046_zpse9e3c625.jpg

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I am pretty sure BRZ/FRS are sharing this same part with 5th. gen legacy. This part number (692 474L) is mostly referenced to FRS/BRZ LCA but the installation manual is for BM/BR.

 

I picked up one from a local guy that is parting out his FRS. Painting the LCA with Grimspeed Cherry Blossom Red, pictures to follow.

 

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/ajphoto09/CuscoLCA_zpsd6dc8529.jpg

 

08+ WRX (not STI) rear suspension parts are compatible.

Okay, maybe sti RSB is compatible, but I think that's about it.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I've got RCE blacks and Bilsteins setup, I'm interested in getting LCA to fix the rear camber issue. So far I've found two part numbers:

Cusco 692 474L

 

GtSpec GTS-SUS-1376

 

Any other parts I should look at(links would be great)?

Thanks in advance

 

Hardrace 6754-R / Megan racing in US

 

http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp?strClass1=9&strClass2=66&strClass3=169

 

Agency power also makes one but I have just remember that there was no hole to support the bracket for the self leveling headlight.

 

SPC also make a very simple adjustable rear LCA, not sure if you would like it though.

 

Hope that helps!

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  • 7 months later...
But I can't seem to find everywhere selling the new version. Even the GTSPEC website still listed the old version.

 

http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-rear-control-arm-camber-adjustment-08-subaru-12-brz-frs

 

The new version part number is GTS-SUS-1473

 

I just posted mine up for sale :)

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ca-new-gtspec-lca-rear-adjustable-control-arm-gts-222978.html

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Instagram: itshangertime :spin::spin::spin: ○ ○ ○

 

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  • 1 year later...

Just browsing the web and notice this economical adjustable LCA offered by Whiteline, KTA216. Roughly have the price of other LCA on the market at 260-280US. Doesn't look like any weight reduction, but you get the ability to adjust camber. I'm still using the Cusco myself, thought I share.

 

+/-2.5deg camber

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=kta216

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I like the various mounting options on the RSR https://www.rs-r.com/product/rs-r-rear-lower-control-arms/

 

but also like the billet of the ISC http://iscsuspension-na.com/store/#!/ISC-Rear-Adjustable-Control-Arms-V2/p/28352614 and the color is perfect for me.

 

other than the price anyone here anything bad about either one ??

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If you live somewhere with winter-salt, I'd recommend that you to not get one with pillow-ball bearings. They'll be toast in 1 - 2 years. Go for something with a PU or hardened rubber bushing at the end. There are way less options, but the SPC, Whiteline kit above, the mysterious Whiteline aluminum copper coloured ones, or hardrace with hardened rubber are good options.

 

That whiteline kit above looks like a good option. Same setup as the SPC, if I am not mistaken.

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I have my car lowered and haven't install rear LCA. My rear camber is sitting funny right now, with Left of -1.8 and Right -2.5. It also runs side by side stupidly when the road surface is not even.

 

Got an advice from a guy from car club, his wife has 4th gen in it and get a camber bolts or Rear LCA (I forgot :lol), but he told me to get camber bolts.

 

Meanwhile, on the other shop (ftw tuning in eugene, or), they recommend me to change the rear LCA, but it costs somewhat expensive (around 300-500 if I recall it correctly).

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I have my car lowered and haven't install rear LCA. My rear camber is sitting funny right now, with Left of -1.8 and Right -2.5. It also runs side by side stupidly when the road surface is not even.

 

Got an advice from a guy from car club, his wife has 4th gen in it and get a camber bolts or Rear LCA (I forgot :lol), but he told me to get camber bolts.

 

Meanwhile, on the other shop (ftw tuning in eugene, or), they recommend me to change the rear LCA, but it costs somewhat expensive (around 300-500 if I recall it correctly).

How's the toe in the rear? If the toe is straight the car shouldn't track side to side, even with the uneven camber. If you're on coilovers, see if you're at the same ride height on both sides of the car. The lower you go, the more camber you get.

 

Camber bolts won't do anything in the rear on a 5th gen, there's no place to put them. Whiteline makes an offset bushing for the rear that allows a tiny bit of camber adjustment, but it probably wouldn't be enough adjustment to even out that camber completely.

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That IAG kit is very interesting - I heard some talk in hear regarding the joints and materials used, especially if in the northeast - does this look like it fits the bill there?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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When modding the WRX, I had shared, with my installer, an adjustable rear LCA with a "slot" for camber adjustment. He was a bit weary of how it would "lock" into place.

 

He suggested sticking with the used cusco piece which is threaded and locks with a nut on the thread.

 

Has anyone had issues with the slot type going out of alignment?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I did just see that and same thought came to mind - IAG I would imagine is comfortable with the design - but I can picture that being an issue in such a structurally significant piece

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Whitelines have the same style slotted mounting point.

 

I can understand how the pillow ball joints wouldn't like being subjected to our salted roads but I'm under there to lube the poly swaybar bushings so they wouldn't go without being sprayed with something.

 

Currently thinking the RS-R arms with the bushing style mount might be my best move :confused: and they can be found at an OK price. Glad I'm in no hurry.

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How's the toe in the rear? If the toe is straight the car shouldn't track side to side, even with the uneven camber. If you're on coilovers, see if you're at the same ride height on both sides of the car. The lower you go, the more camber you get.

 

Camber bolts won't do anything in the rear on a 5th gen, there's no place to put them. Whiteline makes an offset bushing for the rear that allows a tiny bit of camber adjustment, but it probably wouldn't be enough adjustment to even out that camber completely.

 

The toe is 0.08

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I purchased an 08 LGT that had some minor upgrades (Exhaust, window tint), but recently realized that the previous owner installed Tein H lowering springs.

 

A few months ago, I noticed my tires making noise even at lower speeds (25mph+) and decided to get an alignment as well as my suspension inspected. No major findings when looking at bushings, but alignment was 'bad';

 

Before alignment

Front: Toe L 1.17 R -1.44 Camber L -1.06 R .26 Caster L 6.34 R 6.66

Rear: Camber L -1.59 R -1.29 Toe L -0.08 R -0.22

 

After alignment

Front: Toe L 0.04 R 0.04 Camber L -0.99 R -0.88 Caster L 6.37 R 6.34

Rear: Camber L -1.62 R -1.42 Toe L 0.01 R 0.00

 

It was suggested that the lowering springs in conjunction with mis-alignment has caused the inner tread of my tires to become cupped/feathered. To fix this issue, whiteline KTA124 kit was recommended.

 

Thoughts?

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I thought the same thing, but I think the tires that are worn the worse are the rears, which were rotated to the front prior to alignment.

 

I do not want to spend $700-$800 on new tires, only for this issue to arise in less than 20K miles. Currently, I have Continental Xtreme Contact DWS tires.

 

Should I not be concerned about the @ -1.5 rear camber?

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