djorge Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 job done, no disappointment but, had to lower the exaust and unplug the sensors, 2 at each side, then, the bad surprise, all fitted back and the bad news, check engine, e-brake and traction control lights all on, and blinking cruise alternated w/ "S", heeeelp me please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 ^^Well first of all, your car looks like it's upside down. Try un-plugging and re-plugging in the sensors. If you still get CEL then disconnect the battery completely, wait a few minutes, and reconnect. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Yes, this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djorge Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 2 good news: the 26mm adjustable bar feels great in steering, should get some HWY this weekend to really test itas for the engine check lights, scanned the car last night and bingo, 2 of the 04 sensors (the A/F ones, wired from exaust top), were not detected, just had to unplug them, unplug the battery for a few minutes as you indicated correctly...Thanks for everyone's strong support as usual, and sorry for my upside-down picture; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 2013 3.6R 26mm Front Sway - 20401AJ08A Bushings - 20414AJ10A (x2) Call Brett Welles at suburban Subaru. (860) 649-9655. So i ordered in a Front sway bar from one of the local dealerships here.... somehow after i told him 10000000000 times the bar i need for the 3.6r he somehow ordered me the wrong one still and i ended up with a 2013 2.5i bar. Now i have to wait for the next one to come in at the end of the week. So with the oem bushings did you not use any grease? just teflon tape? and with the whitelines what did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Stock bushings I used nothing. White line was Teflon on the bar and loads of grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Stock bushings I used nothing. White line was Teflon on the bar and loads of grease Thanks. Alright. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Question about this install.... is it harder to install if the front is in the air since the car is not under load like the rear install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Remove the end links on ramps. Put the car in the air because you have to take the wheels off. Slide the swaybar out, slide the new one in and bolt it up to the cradle. Reinstall the wheels, put the car on ramps and connect the end links. You can install the bar on the cradle with the car in the air, but to get the end links on it is best to have the suspension compressed. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I only had to disconnect one tie rod end but I also used a jack to help raise then lower the control arm to allow me clearance at different angles to spin the bar into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I think ncfree was able to install without removing a tie rod end. Said he just wiggled it into place. I'm not confident about removing a tie rid end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I think ncfree was able to install without removing a tie rod end. Said he just wiggled it into place. I'm not confident about removing a tie rid end. I did. What we did is put it on stands with the front elevated. Then we would twist it and then put jack stands under the wheels and jack them up and down till we could squeeze it out cuz that would move the tie rods and control arms and everything so there would be room. Also you have to move the wheels back and forth as well like moving the steering wheel. It was a biiiiiotch but better than removing the tie rod ends. Funny part was wen we got the 2012 bar out I found out they gave me the 2.5i bar which won't fit so I was like well eff. And had to order the other one and park the car for a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 If you do it the way I did, makes it much easier and can be done in 30 minutes. It's just the castle nut, but to each his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 If you do it the way I did, makes it much easier and can be done in 30 minutes. It's just the castle nut, but to each his own. Now that I know exactly what ncfree did, I may remove the tie rod end :/ Never removed a tie rod end before and am a little bit sketched out. How cautious do I need to be with easily breaking something with this step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Now that I know exactly what ncfree did, I may remove the tie rod end :/ Never removed a tie rod end before and am a little bit sketched out. How cautious do I need to be with easily breaking something with this step? Tie rods are pretty easy. Take out cotter pin. Remove castle nut. Now here's where you could break or bend something. Try not to use a tie rod splitter. It'll end up ripping your boot. Instead tap on the side of the knuckle where the tie rod goes threw. Usually just pops out. DO NOT hit the threaded part with a hammer, it bends easy and you'll never be able to get the castle nut on. If you must do this as a last resort put the castle nut to the end of the threads to try and protect it from mushrooming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Thanks Reeg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 That is exactly how I did it. Tap around the knuckle. If you loosen the castle nut don't take it off. Make the threads square with the top of the nut. Give that a tap and out the tie rod end comes. Then you can take the castle nut off and the tie rod end will come out. Tie rods are pretty easy. Take out cotter pin. Remove castle nut. Now here's where you could break or bend something. Try not to use a tie rod splitter. It'll end up ripping your boot. Instead tap on the side of the knuckle where the tie rod goes threw. Usually just pops out. DO NOT hit the threaded part with a hammer, it bends easy and you'll never be able to get the castle nut on. If you must do this as a last resort put the castle nut to the end of the threads to try and protect it from mushrooming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 That is exactly how I did it. Tap around the knuckle. If you loosen the castle nut don't take it off. Make the threads square with the top of the nut. Give that a tap and out the tie rod end comes. Then you can take the castle nut off and the tie rod end will come out. Is it easy to put the tie rod end back once it has been removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Yes. Its as simple as pushing the tie rod back into the knuckle and tighten the castle nut. Sorry, I don't have a torque spec. Use a new cotter-pin though. Those are cheap too. A packet of various sizes is less than $2. Is it easy to put the tie rod end back once it has been removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tama24 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Yes. Its as simple as pushing the tie rod back into the knuckle and tighten the castle nut. Sorry, I don't have a torque spec. Use a new cotter-pin though. Those are cheap too. A packet of various sizes is less than $2. good youtube vid of replacing inner and outer tie rods that should be useful for this method Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Im just happy my thread is still alive after all these years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Well, I just attempted this and was defeated by the salt filled Minnesota winters. I was able to get the links disconnected (replaced them last spring and had to cut them off, so they weren't rusty yet), also got the bushings removed as well as the uber rusty castle nut on the ball joint. It was so rusty i had to break off the cotter pin. I got hung up on getting the tie rod end out of the knuckle. Tried everything except a fork since I didn't want to destroy it. I then decided to try removing the sway bar by doing the turning the steering method and jiggling it out, but that's a pain by yourself and I wasn't about to wake up the wife to help. After 15 min of that malarkey and a boat load of swearing, that I said screw it and put it all back together. Since the cotter pin was so rusty, it was stuck in the bolt hole and i was unable to get the piece out. so now I'm driving sans cotter pin, which kinda scares the crap out of me. I also somehow managed to tear the boot on one of the endlinks. Fan-effing-tastic. So I'm going to see what my shop will charge to swap it out, but I'm guessing the improvement in handling isn't worth 2-300 in labor on top of the cost of the bar. If that's the case, I'll probably put it up for sale. Anyone interested?? I'm unable to return it since I bought a 2013 part for a 2011 car, which negates the store's return policy. Stupid, I know. At least I replaced the pads on the wife's forester before all this so the night wasn't a complete bust. Sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't. That's the effin way she goes, boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 It shouldn't cost much. Maybe 75-125 in labor. I have a 2011 3.6R with a 2013 FSB and 2015 WRX/STI RSB. Absolutely worth the difference as the car is no longer boaty like it was. If you have any intention on tuning or adding performance parts like the Raptor exhaust headers this is an absolute must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 It shouldn't cost much. Maybe 75-125 in labor. I have a 2011 3.6R with a 2013 FSB and 2015 WRX/STI RSB. Absolutely worth the difference as the car is no longer boaty like it was. If you have any intention on tuning or adding performance parts like the Raptor exhaust headers this is an absolute must. Awesome, good to hear. I figured it wouldnt be too much since i could have had it done under an hour in a cold garage without air tools. I plan on stopping in today to ask about it. Right now Ive got the 19mm rear sway (wish i would have gone bigger, but oh well), bilstein/blacks, perrin axlebacks, and an afe cai. An xrt tune will be happening within the next month or so. Perrin steering damper lockdown and brakes are in the near future as well. Thanks for the enabling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Trust me the 3.6R mod list guys enabled me into bad things..lol The power those raptors and a good tune put out compared to stock is unbelievable. Might as well do the raptors and midpipe because #racecar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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