Dan's $600 dollar 2002 Legacy GT Limited Sedan

[I.U.]

great thread, wish i had half your skills, i try but im horrible, i got to pay to have shit done if it starts gettin serious.

[2point5GT_Dan]

great thread, wish i had half your skills, i try but im horrible, i got to pay to have shit done if it starts gettin serious.

 

Just keep on going. I learned out of necessity because I had to get to work. You **** up a lot less when you have to get somewhere soon.

 

If you can find some local people in your area to help or help on other peoples projects you'll learn a lot. One of our service guys is pretty green but he has a good work ethic and takes direction, he's learned alot working on the RS.

[Kiyo1990]

Dude I want that car

[2point5GT_Dan]

I should probably do my full write up for NEFR. Just trying to get my head screwed on and get back to civilian life the last few days.

 

The week before was spent scrambling for everything, fire extinguishers, cage foam, spill kit, etc.

 

Wednesday

 

Before the event we were fabricating fender liners and taking care of misc little issues. I leave at 4:30 to head to check into the condo and for Recce.

 

I get a phone call on the way up. Service team test drove the car and it has no speedo. The problem with that is, subaru ECU goes into limp mode if it has no speedo signal. Crew works on it, gives up and loads the car and heads up to the event.

 

I have a replacement gauge cluster located and being brought in the next day. Spare VSS from gearboxes was also thrown around.

 

Thursday

Recce. Car was now service's problem. They did afternoon tech inspection + worked on the speedo issue.

 

We did the 400+ miles in my friends caged booked car behind David Higgins:

 

 

The day was uneventful except for me having to pee in the woods every three seconds. We practiced some techniques during recce and I got used to being in the office again after an extended time away.

 

We get back to the headquarters at 6pm. Service Crew has passed tech. Car still has no speedo. Prepping to run 4k redline all weekend, I head off to my novice meeting. I get a text saying it is fixed. Replaced gauge cluster, vss, wiring, and fuse.

 

We bring the car up to the service park to reserve our spot next to team monster energy Ken Block:

 

 

FRIDAY

 

Alternator swap then park expose

 

 

 

Off we go:

 

SS1:

 

Concord Pond is it, the big mac daddy of roads. Of course this is my first stage, not a super special to warm up. I had planned just to run the car in 3rd and keep it around 60mph. Feel things out, play it safe. Crashing on SS1 is a stupid way to lose. Saw two cars stopped with triangles. .5 miles in the left rear strut tophat starts knocking. Accidentally left the AC on, temp jumped up to the second tick mark. Finished the stage no worse for wear.

 

 

SSS2:

 

Short .5 mile spectator stage at the ski mountain. Highlighted by a huge straight away into a 90 degree turn onto pavement with guardrails. Hitting the guardrails is a stupid way to lose. We held some speed but tried to keep it clean first of all.

 

 

 

We just don't have the big power or predictable suspension to put on shows like the big boys, but still got some sideways:

 

 

In for the only service of the day.

 

 

SS3:

 

Icicle Brooke in. 16 miles of stage. Open wide dirt roads into skinny fast mountain goat trails back into wide dirt roads again. Plenty of rough spots and places to make mistakes. Used both 3rd and 4th on the stage and set a good pace. There is one long straight and on recce my co driver said "think long and hard before you go to grab 5th gear". Played it safe and wound out 4th. Got the car airborn a few times. Towards the end of the stage I was getting tired. Ended up out running the codrivers notes and we soft off'd into the shrubbery. We reverse out and keep going. Saw 3 sets of triangles out, but finished the stage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Damage report. Cage plates separating from near the top strut mounts. Rear left top hat is clunking worse. Strut top bolts are no longer centered in the circle.

 

SS4:

 

Icicle Brooke out and the last stage of the day. In had kind of spooked me. Things didn't feel "right". Planned to just keep a good pace and finish day 1. On the line. 3.2.1. Go. Off and moving. 1 mile in triangles. Civic in the ditch, OK sign out. Rob in my ear "are we towing them." **** YES WE ARE. Team SiF all about being friends with everyone and helping out. Slam on the brakes. Slam car in reverse. They hook up. Co driver gives clear. Pop them out. Slack the line. Whats going on whats going on are they clear are they clear I don't know okay hes clear go go go go.

 

We take off. We get around 10 miles into the stage. Headlights in the rear view. I do not like this. We lost time with the tow and the car behind us caught up. I do not like people on my tail, I get anxious. If they're having a good run I don't want to cock block them either. I make the call to try and set a good pace until we hit an opening then let them by. We turn into a downhill L2. Full on drift across the intersection out wide. Look up in the wink mirror and see the 555 impreza sliding across each pane of mirror behind us. I blinker on and slow down and let them by. What the didn't expect was for me to give chase and keep pace.

 

Kept up with them the rest of the stage and have some drama in the last R4 into L3.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4zHSFRQqHA]SiF motorsports chasing a 555 impreza at NEFR 2013 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jxVj841aSI]Tim Meunier hitting the trees at NEFR - Stage 4 Icicle Brook South - YouTube[/ame]

 

They went wide into the L3, we went in tight and crossed up to scrub off speed + show boat.

 

 

 

 

We finish the stage. 555 Impreza blew a window out. We pull into timing behind them. Rallymaster goes: "is that your tow strap?"..... NO

 

We towed the civics strap behind us for 14 miles of stage.

 

We pack up and head back to the service area to check into timing control. Day 1 DONE.

 

 

 

Had to weld the strut towers back together. I went around and asked every team for a spring compressor to swap a rear tophat, but no one had one. (later I remembered we could have done it without one).

 

The right rear strut was blown after 40 stage miles. The left rear still damped but had a bad tophat.

 

End of day 1.

[2point5GT_Dan]

Day 2 Post

 

Park Expose exhausted from the day before. Day 2 is 80 + miles, 9 stages. Co driver says Friday is fun, Saturday feels like work. The first stage was a spectator stage, so I was happy to be able to feel the car out and have something nice and easy to start the day.

 

The cage plates near the top of the strut towers were welded up, it was just a unibody seam that was separating. The rear struts were in a sad state of affairs. The right had no damping and the left tophat was knocking bad. We were going to change it but ended up not. In the morning we put on the dust caps for the rear strut towers, reasoning is if we blow a strut tophat we can get a quarter of a mile of stage or a full transit with the strut shaft banging the dust cover. Co driver and I decided to take on fresh tires and try and do a strut at the first service.

 

SS5:

 

Sunday River spectator stage. .5 Miles. managed to keep it clean and not hit the guardrails again. It felt slower but I think we went faster. First section is real torn up after 100 cars on gravels.

 

SS6:

 

Transit to the NH lakes stages. 6 is Lost Weekend Clockwise. About 8 miles of road. The first section is a raised section of road with huge ditches on the side. They used lots of tiny rocks to build up the road. It felt like driving on marbles on some sections. On the way in we saw the triangles of someone but no sign of the car, just triangles and OK sign. Kept going. Later on we found out it was Burke and he had rolled the car down into a ravine but they were ok. Rest of the stage the worn tires and blown struts are really starting to show their wear.

 

We get to the last part of the stage. R5 which was more like an R4 I think? We end up cooking through the turn way to hot into a ditch. The back end of the car goes up into the air about 4 or 5 feet but we stayed on the gas and were able to drive the car out of the ditch and across the finish line. Only one small dent on the rear unibody behind the door.

SS7:

 

Hampshire Hills CCW. This stage is a blast. Nice tight section at the end and smooth roads in the beginning. The landing on the last stage murdered the already poorly damping struts in the rear. Any turn we took the car would over rotate too much. Ended up slowing down because of this, there was just no way to safely slide the car and have it react consistently. We finish with little issue and proceed to the first service.

Service 1:

 

First service is before Sturdevant Pond, 18 miles, half of it a rough car ruiner. We have 20 minutes. We spend the first 13 minutes of service trying to get the car in the air due to jack stand failures. LDR's crew comes and helps. We get the car in the air with 7 minutes left and I turned to one of our service guys and say "you and me, strut change, can we do it" "yup". We start on the left rear to throw in a spare Tokico. We get it swappped out in 5 minutes. Load the fresh tires on the car and we are on our way to timing control and Sturdevant.

 

SS8:

 

This is it. The stage of day 2. Recce was rough and we were crawling at points. The second half of the stage opens up into faster sections.

 

 

 

 

On the transit back we see a car pulled over. We pull next to them and they are asking for a jack. We tell them to pop the trunk and take our jack and impact gun and give it back at service. We take off. yay teamwork.

 

Service 2:

 

We finish Sturdevant Pond with little issue. Car got hot towards the end so I just shut AC off for a little bit :smug:.

 

Pull into service and plan to change the right rear strut so we can have full rear damping again. Take on water and food and inspect everything. Out the door for another 3 rounds in the ring. NH lakes stages + sturdevant again.

 

SS9:

 

Hampshire Hills clockwise. Nothing much to report. Car is sliding weird but we just keep going. Driving stages is getting routine at this point. Car is getting hot and AC isn't working as well. Shut it off and sweat out the last 2 miles.

 

SS10:

 

Lost Weekend counter-clockwise. They shortened the stage due to there being a logging trailer still parked on stage. The rough section was at the end which I didn't like because that's when I start getting tired. We take off, noting the ditch I drove through last time. Do most of the stage without issue. Car is sliding but just keep powering through it.

 

Transition onto the raised tables and big ditches. Setting a good pace in 3rd gear, but the car is getting hot. Shut the AC off and just safe drive it to finish. As we hit one crest the car comes down hard and bottoms out in the center. Exhaust broke. Keep driving as it hasn't pole vaulted us yet.

 

We finish and the exhaust isn't hanging. Press on.

 

SS11:

 

Sturdevant Pond 2. The right rear strut we took on in service was making more noise. I was tired and feeling like fried hell. Waiting in line I had the AC on and the windows up trying to cool off but it was still too hot. Through some shenanigans we end up with 555 behind us again. We start the stage and see more and more cars off or broken.

 

We make it through the first rough section. I am crawling just trying to save the car and myself. We've come to far to DNF.

 

 

 

 

The first smooth section opens up and we set a decent pace but nothing to write home about.

 

Second rough section. Half way through. Headlights in the rear view. NOPE. **** YOU WE ARE NOT DOING THIS AGAIN.

 

Foot to the floor. All in. Bomb through the two miles of rough section. The road opens. Carmina Burana can be heard being played by choirs of angels. We. Are. Moving. 4th Gear foot to the floor over 100mph through a series of R and L 6's. It was terrifying. The most amazing dance of controlled chaos I have ever experienced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coming into the tighter spectator area which is a roller coaster of 3's and 4's. Shut the AC off and hammer down ringing the car for all its worth. Temp gauge is creeping but I stay in it as there is only a little bit of stage left. Cross the line foot to the floor and pucker a little bit as we make the last turn barely. Turn the heat on, cool the car off, finish time control and put the AC back on and start transit.

 

 

 

We did it. We did the hardest longest stage left in the day. All we had to do was transit back and finish two 3 mile stages.

 

13 miles from service. Codriver "that strut we put in is getting louder" Me: "yup"

 

10 miles from service. *BANG* "Did the tophat just explode" "yup"

 

Welcome to the Jungle starts playing on the radio.

 

We turn it up. Laugh. And keep driving.

 

Service 3:

 

Get to timing control early and start undoing the suspension in prep for service. We were going to load in the blown STi strut to do the last 6 miles of stages. The tophat died. The strut came out and was bouncing around wearing the threads off. The assembly was taken out in pieces during service. We stand around and then pile in for the last run.

 

SS12:

 

3 mile stretch of Hampshire Hills. The short twisty section. Road is really beat up and the car isn't 100% what with the rear suspension. We press on with every left turn swinging the ass end out wide. Finish the stage.

 

SS13:

 

North Road. This is it. The last 3 miles. I love this road. I got to drive it in the RS last year multiple times as a worker. I am familiar with it, I know where I can hang the ass out wide and where I need to not cut in order to clip boulders. We run the stage at a good pace but nothing too risky and finish.

 

This is it. We've done it. All stages complete. We just have to get back to Sunday River and hand in our time card.

 

Windows down. Stereo up. Cruising. Yes yes yes.

 

The road towards timing.

 

 

 

We pull into timing and hand in our card. Done. NEFR. Done. First stage rally. Done. No DNF. I can't even think.

 

We pull out of timing control and our friends are their with mini firework poppers for us.

 

Pull into impound. Done.

 

 

 

 

We made it.

[2point5GT_Dan]

To do lists.

 

 

 

RS

 

 

stuff that needs to be done for next year:

 

 

 

 

• Refresh cooling system, possibly upgrade radiator
  
• Upgrade skidplate mounts
  
• delete extraneous abs stuff
  
• move wiring harness inboard of fenders + delete a few wiring groups
  
• downgrade the lateral link bushings from poly to group n or stock
  
• roof scoop
  
• replace dying AC fan clutch
  
• move triangles to different area in car
  
• new alt
  
• new batt
  
• real suspension
  
• pin jacks
  
• won 100 dollars from grimmspeed, might get the phenolic spacers or might just order a ton of gaskets since I use them in the shop all the time
  

I might bring the car to some ricer shows or I might throw it under a car cover until rallyx starts up in February, haven't decided.

 

 

Legacy

 

 

Fixed the ABS light issue. Fixed the CEL issue.

 

 

Need to re-top hat the rear struts, fronts are fine after tightening the top hat nut down.

 

 

Need to do the body work on the rear arches. It's half assed but I want to get it cleaned up.

 

 

Probably going to sell this in the spring for a legacy wagon project. I can't carry tires or junkyard run stuff in the sedan.

 

 

Mustang

 

 

Fuel lines and tank are going back in soon. Chassis bracing and suspension is done. Last weekend we took care of the rust.

 

 

I'm hoping to wire and fire it soon. Run the stock 5.0 and T5 for a bit before swapping in the built stuff.

 

 

CJ/XJ project

 

 

We have a 95 cherokee and a 72 CJ 5. We're going to rip the 258 carb'd POS out of the CJ and drop in the XJ's 4.0 efi setup in, turn key jeep + crush the rest of the cherokee. I'm estimating that will take 3 weekends.

[JohnnyT]

I have so enjoyed reading this thread. The rally was very exciting to read. I'm looking forward to reading more. If you do sell the Legacy sdn and get a wagon please continue your work on the wagon in this thread or at least include a link to the wagon thread in this thread so I can follow that project. Keep up the good work!

[LibertyFLS]

the rally pics are epic!

[jp233]

Wagons are GREAT to use as a hauler for race parts, extra parts, buying and selling parts, junkyard trips, sleeping in it to save money from staying in hotels or having to put up a tent, etc...........

[987687]

^^ You are correct, wagons rule balls, my wagon was service vehicle. Most of my tools fit in it.

 

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/nefr2013/IMG_0422_zpse8342b95.jpg

[2point5GT_Dan]

I have so enjoyed reading this thread. The rally was very exciting to read. I'm looking forward to reading more. If you do sell the Legacy sdn and get a wagon please continue your work on the wagon in this thread or at least include a link to the wagon thread in this thread so I can follow that project. Keep up the good work!

 

I'll definitely keep posting. I want a 5MT wagon with a sun roof. Haven't decided on 3rd gen and do a 2.0T swap or a 2.5i 4th gen.

 

Wagons are GREAT to use as a hauler for race parts, extra parts, buying and selling parts, junkyard trips, sleeping in it to save money from staying in hotels or having to put up a tent, etc...........

 

That's the plan. The sedan isn't really earning it's keep when I have to take the F250 Super Duty to get tires mounted.

 

the rally pics are epic!

 

Thanks! My sister took some, friends took others, and the pro guy took some. Next year we'll get a gopro mounted in car, didn't have time this year.

[86bratman]

Simply freakin awesome.

[2point5GT_Dan]

Did some work this weekend

 

While waiting for mustang gas tank stuff to dry, I took apart subaru switches to write about for a local guy who has some dead bulbs and wants to replace them.

 

Good news.

 

I took apart spare switches for you today.

 

 

Fog light switch. You don't have to take them apart to get the bulbs out, I just wanted to see how these things worked.

 

These bulbs twist lock into the side of the switch.

 

 

You use a screwdriver to undo them, then figure out a way to pry them out (I used extra lock wire)

 

http://i.imgur.com/og6xI5b.png

 

The heated seat switches look like that. There is a tall bulb and a short one. You undo the switch at the bottom and slide the assembly out.

 

 

The light bulb assembly just slides off.

 

Now as for replacing them, there is a part # you can get at radioshack. I found it on SLi-net, but cannot for the life of me find the damn thread. You have actually have to remove the bulb and little leads and put a new one.

 

I am not doing that. I plan to just rib out all the bulbs out of switches I find, then test them with my jump pack and put good ones in my car. Someone smart may know of an LED replacement or something, but I don't like spending money on my boring DD.

Then worked on the mustang.

 

 

Tank back together with new pump.

 

Getting ready to do the lower control arms and reinstall the tank + inline pump.

 

 

Old arms out, new ones in along with new springs.

 

 

Maximum motorsports roll/harness bar:

 

 

Looking like a car again, hoping to fire the stock 5.0 next weekend:

 

 

After that I worked on the legacy for two seconds using black RTV to fix a window seal + replace the third brakelight bulb that has been dead since I got the car (even passed inspection last year whoops), with one I found in the Mustang #2 shell.

 

Legacy needs to pass inspection: windshield, reinstall fender liner, swap tires because one of mine has a sidewall bubble. Also need to do front CV axles because they shake at cold idle + one of them has a torn boot.

 

Then I worked on the bench tester.

 

 

 

 

 

Cut the starter corner off a bad transmission with a sawzall. Then started to try and ID some of the harness. My ECU is missing and two other people have touched this thing so I have parts missing of the main fuse in engine bay fuse block :|

 

WTF is this thing:

 

 

Nissan door relay that is in the fist full of wires down one leg of the loom I labelled "useless door shit"

 

 

Mystery brown plug that goes to stuff in the engine bay? It connects to the engine bay fuse block

 

 

Radio connector + other center console crap probably? I'm sure it can all be deleted, but I want to ID every connector before I start deleting circuits.

 

 

Illumination controller? Probably don't need this:

 

 

I've only stripped a few sections that I've ID'd and just cut the loom back:

 

 

Pretty sure these three go to the now missing ECU.

 

 

These are on the engine harness. I know the two little ones are reverse and neutral transmission switches, but the big one and the 3 pin I'm not sure of. Big one is probably transmission or something.

 

 

I'll actually sit with a service manual and look at more stuff next weekend. The bigger issue is that I'm missing fuse block stuff.

 

Stuff I still need:

 

starter

flywheel

ecu

fuel lines

dig out engine stand

figure out harness better

fab exhaust

[2point5GT_Dan]

More mustang work yesterday.

 

Bypassed the ford "security" brain by just bypassing two wires, turns out there was a pin diagram on the back of the unit.

 

When starting the car up, it would piss fuel. Went and pulled the broken off fuel stub out of car #2. Turns out the replacement fuel pump hanger has a smaller outlet then stock. I ran to the parts store and got the right one. We swap it out and key on the car and the hardlines blew. That's about where we stopped, but the car in theory should run once we replace those. Turns over fine with the fuel pump unplugged.

 

Then I pulled the legacy in to fix some things.

 

 

The rear struts have always clunked and I just blew it off. Got new tophats. Also noticed the weekend before the front CV boots were torn. They had always vibrated when the car was cold anyways so I just got replacements.

 

 

 

 

Tightened down the new tophats way better and will tighten them again tonight to make sure this doesn't happen again.

[mungewell]

The rear struts have always clunked and I just blew it off.

 

Looking at the tophats that's more than likely your problem, however this channel that I follow on YouTube has a suggestion for packing grease into the rear struts to prevent clunking.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYiP4DG_OQU]Subaru WRX STi and Impreza How to fix the clunk from the rear suspension. - YouTube[/ame]

 

Channel also has some other good subaru vids...

Simon.

 

PS. If you had some 'SiF' stickers for grabs, I'd be happy to throw a few $ your way - especially if it encourages you to keep posting about your fun (and cats).

[2point5GT_Dan]

Looking at the tophats that's more than likely your problem

 

The race car and the legacy both egged out the rear tophats. The RS I don't get why it does it, but the legacy was because i didn't seat them right.

 

The struts clunking themselves is a known issue with the STi units, and we take them apart and repack them after every event.

 

PS. If you had some 'SiF' stickers for grabs, I'd be happy to throw a few $ your way - especially if it encourages you to keep posting about your fun (and cats).

 

I have a vinyl cutter and TONS of stickers to give out. It's easier if you message us through facebook http://www.facebook.com/sifmotorsports , but if you PM us on here we can accommodate you.

 

All money raised is going to an animal shelter. Writing the check next month.

[2point5GT_Dan]

Update thread for things I've done recently:

 

Mustang stuffs:

 

Bypassed the ford "security" brain by just bypassing two wires, turns out there was a pin diagram on the back of the unit.

 

When starting the car up, it would piss fuel. Went and pulled the broken off fuel stub out of car #2. Turns out the replacement fuel pump hanger has a smaller outlet then stock. I ran to the parts store and got the right one. We swap it out and key on the car and the hardlines blew. That's about where we stopped, but the car in theory should run once we replace those. Turns over fine with the fuel pump unplugged.

 

Then I pulled the legacy in to fix some things.

 

 

The rear struts have always clunked and I just blew it off. Got new tophats. Also noticed the weekend before the front CV boots were torn. They had always vibrated when the car was cold anyways so I just got replacements.

 

 

 

 

Tightened down the new tophats way better and will tighten them again tonight to make sure this doesn't happen again.

 

Not much to report.

 

Got the fuel lines replaced on the mustang and we started it:

 

[video type=youtube]w-HOEkW5VDo

 

Then I went to a friends house and stuck the cheapo gopro knockoff on the race car.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TO0uhH8bn4E]09 02 13 SiF Pyle action camera test video - YouTube[/ame]

 

Then I looked into why the strut was clunking on my legacy and I broke the tophat stud off.

 

Said **** it and drove the race car back to town.

 

 

Drove the RS all week to work:

 

 

Few weekends ago was roundy round. We don't have a car to field, but our friend Chris always runs his 6 speed wrx.

 

He made it to the last round, was 1 and 1, and then his motor died. Too much lateral G's = oil starved rod bearings. He lots the last race because the motor was dying. We made it half way across the town before the thing shut off and I had to go get the trailer:

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4yw6si2HM8]Chris's motor died at the oval track - YouTube[/ame]

 

Got back to my apartment at 2am.

 

Fun night.

 

Today I unloaded the thing, put it on some poop tires, and locked it up until he gets his built motor back to install.

 

 

Worked on the legacy, replaced two strut tops:

 

 

Then put in some spacers for the rear O2 to get rid of the stupid p0420 cat code.

 

Then because I am a terrible mechanic, I go to start the car, and the thing wont start. I hear one loud click.

 

Verify the battery is good. Verify the starter can be bypassed on the circuit. Power flows to the starter just fine.

 

Take it out and take it apart.

 

 

The plunger that drops to engage the starter gear and make contact to send power to the motor was corroded after an assumed 202k miles. Polished all the contacts with sand paper and reassembled everything. Starts great.

 

Tomorrow is reseal the header and order new front brakes. Then it is windshield, alignment, and new state inspection sticker.

 

The captain:

 

 

[2point5GT_Dan]

Got the mustang back together and running:

 

 

[2point5GT_Dan]

Thing is ready for sale!

 

Because... I bought this:

 

 

Drove 3 hours to vermont to go get the damn thing. I didn't want to run it back uninsured with sketch plates, not registered, etc. So I just trailered the thing.

 

 

 

Here it is in the daylight.

 

 

Rot:

 

 

Dent above the rot:

 

 

The friggin' hatch is dented. I think I'm going to find a clean junkyard one with a wing and have it repainted.

 

 

Bumper is separated on both sides like this. It will move forward but the mounts are fucked up because of the rot. Once I pull it it will be interesting to see whats up. I think the car was tapped in the rear due to the dents and shit.

 

 

Right side rear dent.

 

 

Because my mother is so pissed off about "all the ******* cars" at their house, I'm hiding it at a friends house until I sell my sedan.

 

 

 

Car has a p0447 persistent CEL. Pretty sure it's the wiring above the charcoal box like my sedan had.

 

Once I fix the rust and the CEL it's get it inspected. Then do a tune up.

 

The plan is to take the money from the sale of the sedan and blow it right away on Hella FF450's behind my spare grill, lowering springs or coilovers, tint, JDM roof rails.

 

Today I worked on goldie, new windshield went in friday, brakes today, diff oil. State inspection tomorrow. We put the roll loop in the mustang and I worked on welding some rust but the mig stopped grounding for no reason.

 

Goldie passed state inspection today and got a brand new alignment.

 

Car is for sale! Title in hand! Cash only! Need it gone so I can start on my wagon.

[JohnnyT]

Hey Dan, thanks for the update. It's always great reading about what you're working on. Good luck wit the wagon. It looks a little ruff, but looking at what you did with goldie I know you'll make "Old Blue" beautiful.

 

You probably know this already, but from what I see, Goldie is a GT and GTs have a limited slip rear diff. where "Old Blue" is a regular Legacy and does not have the limited slip. That's something to consider when it come to traction. Maybe you can swap them out and put the limited slip in "Old Blue" before you sell Goldie.

 

Keep the good stuff coming.

[2point5GT_Dan]

Hey Dan, thanks for the update. It's always great reading about what you're working on. Good luck wit the wagon. It looks a little ruff, but looking at what you did with goldie I know you'll make "Old Blue" beautiful.

 

You probably know this already, but from what I see, Goldie is a GT and GTs have a limited slip rear diff. where "Old Blue" is a regular Legacy and does not have the limited slip. That's something to consider when it come to traction. Maybe you can swap them out and put the limited slip in "Old Blue" before you sell Goldie.

 

Keep the good stuff coming.

 

Thanks!

 

Goldie is auto so 4.44 vs blue 5mt 4.11. Can't direct swap. My race car is 4.44 open but I already have a 4.44 limited on the shelf.

 

I'd rather get rid of Goldie ASAP and get a junkyard diff later. Dad's bringing my stock stereo into the city so I can swap out my aftermarket stuff at my apartment and get this thing on CL faster.

 

Once Goldie is on I can rip into ol' blue and really go nuts. Blue was cheap enough that I should have plenty of modding money.

[LibertyFLS]

look forward to the blue wagon progress!

[JohnnyT]

I honestly didn't know there was a difference in the gearing in the rear diff for the auto vs. 5MT. I thought the gearing was different in the tranny only. You learn something every day. You Surely know what you're doing my man!

[AAPOQ]

I love those third gen sedans, even in that color

Nice score!

[2point5GT_Dan]

look forward to the blue wagon progress!

 

So am I, its killing me I can't dig into it yet.

 

I honestly didn't know there was a difference in the gearing in the rear diff for the auto vs. 5MT. I thought the gearing was different in the tranny only. You learn something every day. You Surely know what you're doing my man!

 

It's all tied together. Gotta match your rear end to your trans. Diffs are easy, so I don't mind finding one down the road.

 

I love those third gen sedans, even in that color

Nice score!

 

I lucked out. I wanted blue or black. I was actually looking at wrx's and 2nd gen legacy's, but this was too good of a deal and I like the 3rd gen interior better.