Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Review of FMS and other knock-off parts


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I should add that I have not had a problem with heatsoak with out the splitter. But I have not done a lot of city driving since I installed it and it has been -10 to -20 here. Numerous occasions after I was driving I felt the core and it was still cool.

 

Not saying that I would go without a splitter in the summer or city driving but some air does still pass through the core.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should add that I have not had a problem with heatsoak with out the splitter. But I have not done a lot of city driving since I installed it and it has been -10 to -20 here. Numerous occasions after I was driving I felt the core and it was still cool.

 

Not saying that I would go without a splitter in the summer or city driving but some air does still pass through the core.

Heatsoak will probably not be affected that much with a splitter or without, as long as the splitter design didn't block the path of heat around the intercooler and out through the scoop. Where you see the difference is while moving, and the lack of splitter not ducting the air through the core.

What many don't realize is that air is mostly drawn through the scoop by slightly lower air pressure in the engine compartment, caused by air passing quickly under the lower engine cover (Bernoulli effect). If the air is not tightly ducted through the intercooler core it takes the path of least resistance, around the core and out under the car, without doing anything useful.

 

No splitter means much lower efficiency.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fahr, do you suggest the lower engine cover making a big difference in how much negative pressure there is underneath the ic? i havent had mine on for months however i do have a pw and a properly installed splitter.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fahr, do you suggest the lower engine cover making a big difference in how much negative pressure there is underneath the ic? i havent had mine on for months however i do have a pw and a properly installed splitter.

 

Yup, everyone thinks it is there as a splash guard but it isn't.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fahr, do you suggest the lower engine cover making a big difference in how much negative pressure there is underneath the ic?

 

Yes. The effect on intercooling efficiency is easily measured on cars with speed-density fueling.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the FMS headers and up pipe its a pile of shit fitment wise. Nothing fit right everything had to be modified to get it to work and was a bitch to put in. Gaskets were shit. and didn't even line up with the original bolt holes. Mike @ infamous had to show the headers who was boss and bring sledge hammer to header to install this and get it to fit. It was like Thor beating the shit out of the tin man. Up pipe is horrible too. Lets just say everything is slightly rotated including my turbo. Its also melted part of my undertray. Here is my review from another thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fast-motorsports-headers-and-solid-up-pipe-have-horrible-fitment-179049.html
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I don't get: why buy FMS uppipe when an Invidia or OEM replacement catless is $150 and has perfect fitment.

 

Thanks, BAC, for this thread. I think we need to start tallying the results of this thread in the original post (e.g. FMS TMIC: # recommend, # not recommend; IPR TMIC: # recommend, # not recommend, all with some caveat to the statement or INTERNET perception to quality).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I don't get: why buy FMS uppipe when an Invidia or OEM replacement catless is $150 and has perfect fitment.

 

Thanks, BAC, for this thread. I think we need to start tallying the results of this thread in the original post (e.g. FMS TMIC: # recommend, # not recommend; IPR TMIC: # recommend, # not recommend, all with some caveat to the statement or INTERNET perception to quality).

 

Not a half bad idea. If I have some time, I might do that. Or maybe a poll, or something.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated
The FMS UP was cheap, and it works. I did not have to use a hammer either, but I did have to use an angle grinder. For anything more complicated than an UP, I doubt I'd want to go FMS at this point.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Mill and GTTuner, I own a Perrin TMIC, it hits the clutch master banjo bolt and if you don't realize this you will eventually rub a hole in the IC and damage fins. I had to bend the bracket that holds the TMIC on the right side to clear the banjo bolt.

 

As well as that I currently own the FIRST GMK exhaust system (third owner) that has the resonator on it... It did not fit well and hit my driveshaft as well as yes its 409 stainless so it WILL surface rust but not scale like regular steel. You also need to keep the cans polished... I cut it up and made it work. Even knowing this I also bought a M2 WRX downpipe and intermediate pipe and a $60 dynomax cat and made my own catted downpipe combo, now my whole exhaust is done with V-band clamps and coated with TurboX Blue coating so I have no issues.

 

I also have a FMS header/up combo which I have not installed yet. I'm sure I will have to tweak that some way or some how to ensure the turbo doesn't move but honestly I don't care I'll make it fit and it was dirt cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just bought the FMS CBE and FMS catless DP. Went to install everything and realized it did not come with any gaskets. Tried a few different things, but still there is a leak in at least 2 spots. Contacting numerous shops tomorrow to find some doughnut gaskets that will work.

 

The left muffler hangs lower than the right no matter what I did, perhaps different hangers will change that, but they had better be real tight.

 

The Catless DP is nice, fit perfect and had no issues there.

 

The fitment of the y-pipe is super close to being incorrect, but fortunately it just barely works. If I had known it would fit like this, and there would be no gaskets, I would have saved my money.

 

Too much hassle for what its worth, IMO. I love the sound though. After I get all of this worked out, I am headed to PDXTuning to have it dynotuned. Cant stand having cruise control flash at me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fahr, do you suggest the lower engine cover making a big difference in how much negative pressure there is underneath the ic? i havent had mine on for months however i do have a pw and a properly installed splitter.

 

Nothing to suggest. Its a fact. There are several threads (not on LGT.com IIRC) measuring airpressure with and without a underttray for FMIC and TMIC both. Very interesting read. Wish I was not so tired, I'd look it up for you. PM Drew888, he probably remembers.

 

I also have a FMS header/up combo which I have not installed yet. I'm sure I will have to tweak that some way or some how to ensure the turbo doesn't move but honestly I don't care I'll make it fit and it was dirt cheap.

 

Flaunting your fabrication skills once again:lol: Its important to not that BBGTL has skills that many forum members do not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just added a comment to their page

 

FWIW, I've had three separate orders with IIR, all of them included an incorrect part. One of which occurrences caused my engine rebuild to be delayed an entire day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the FMS TMIC v2 from AJW. Fast shipping, well packed. No rattles or oil in the parts. No bent fins.

 

Install was easy and took all of 15 mins. Hoses are much easier to work with than trying to hold washers still on a skinny bracket for my old Perrin. Brackets were super easy to put in and lined up fine. I didn't have to remove any wiring harnesses. Only issue was not getting a bag of bolts in my box, and the BOV holes were different sizes. I had bolts on hand that fit, so far so good. The hoses help you control how much room you get in between the TMIC and the MBC (you can rotate the tank so it angles up. It was sent with a 08+ WRX hood scoop air splitter. I will fab my own splitter to properly get air flowing through this thing.

 

I haven't gotten tuned yet. We'll see how it goes after I go see Infamous for a road tune hopefully in 2-3 weeks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use