Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 6, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 6, 2012 Make sure you bulletproof that used ic. You might even want to try using pliers to get the tabs tight again and do the bp mod on the one you already have. That's my plan with mine anyway. If you go stage 2 with a used stock intercooler, you're just going to end up with the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Well my plan was to get a used stock (in good condition) just to see if it is actually the intercooler that is keeping me from getting to stock boost. If it is, I am going to sell the stocker and go stage 2 with a dp, IC, and a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 that type of leak can certainly cause a lot of boost to piss out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Yeah it's right on the turbo corner. It blew out pretty much the whole corner but it isn't a huge separation, just enough that if you knew what you were looking for you would see it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 7, 2012 Thats enough to cause your problem. It doesnt take much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 7, 2012 If you want a new intercooler, you might as well skip the used stocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 The only reason I am going to go with a used one first is I don't want to spend $400+ on one and then find out it is something else. The way I am looking to do it, I spend $50 on an OEM, if it fixes it, get a DP, IC, and tune and then just sell the OEM for $50 and it'll be like I never spend the $50 but at least I'll know that was the only problem and it isn't a couple of little problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-n-y-l-my-wife-made-me-clean-out-181203.html $60 from him. shoot him a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 7, 2012 Lol. I've already sent him a pm. I'm just going to bulletproof a working one. I think he has 2 of them though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well I jb welded my stock intercooler. I haven't had a chance to log some pools yet as I had to drive to Columbus, OH to look for a new apartment. Anyways, here is a LV after the 6.5hr drive home from columbus late last night. It looks pretty good from what I can tell. The only thing that has me a little worried is the learning at the 40+ mark is at +4. I know that most say anything below 5 is acceptable but should I do anything to make it better? This was after running 70-80mph most of the time and then for about an hr between 60-75 because I ran through a torrential downpour in western PA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Herps, typically the 40+ airflow ranges should be much less than +5 or -5. typically this would suggest the even higher ranges (I.E. open loop) are off as well. so either you have a vac leak somewhere or your maf isn't scaled properly. if you have stock intake setup check for leaks, inlet leaks, hoses popped off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well I jb welded my stock intercooler. I haven't had a chance to log some pools yet as I had to drive to Columbus, OH to look for a new apartment. Anyways, here is a LV after the 6.5hr drive home from columbus late last night. It looks pretty good from what I can tell. The only thing that has me a little worried is the learning at the 40+ mark is at +4. I know that most say anything below 5 is acceptable but should I do anything to make it better? This was after running 70-80mph most of the time and then for about an hr between 60-75 because I ran through a torrential downpour in western PAI don't see your LV posted? Also, fuel trims require time to relearn. If you didn't reset the ECU, it'll take a while to settle back into their proper ranges. If you mostly did highway speed, your A and B trims won't adjust that much because you haven't driven in them that much. The D trim will adjust mildly, but C should settle in because that's where you are when you're cruising on the highway. D is hard to hit. You have to be accelerating very mildly at highway speed, or going uphill at highway speed to be hitting that range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Sorry for some reason it didn't attached the first time. Must have forgot to hit upload Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Well I am still trying to figure out what is wrong. I was looking at what people are reading for idling vacuum and everyone says around 10psi or less... my car is reading around 12+/- 1 psi. This mean I have a leak somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 you want -8psi or lower (-9..) in the manifold relative pressure corrected parameter, on a boost gauge this would equate to -18 to -24 of inHg, if its towards 0 then you have a leak somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 I am gettin 12 on the MRP 4 byte. Would this be different with the corrected parameter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 ive always used mrp corrected. im reading correct boost with this parameter, 21psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Use 4 byte Manifold Relative Pressure (4-byte)* (32-bit ECU) or Manifold Relative Pressure (Direct)* (16-bit ECU) (2,4) -> This is the actual relative boost pressure and therefore will match a boost gauge regardless of local atmospheric pressure. This parameter, unlike the standard SSM parameters 'Manifold Relative Pressure' and 'Manifold Relative Pressure (Corrected)', has no effective limit. The previous extended parameter with the same name was renamed to 'Manifold Relative Sea Level Pressure...' to reflect that it is actually logging with the assumption of sea level atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi). Manifold Relative Pressure (Corrected) (2,2) -> The standard SSM parameter 'Manifold Relative Pressure' is limited to a reading around 18.4 psi. This parameter overcomes this limit by calculating relative pressure by subtracting 'Atmospheric Pressure' from 'Manifold Absolute Pressure'. This effectively raises the limit to about 22 psig at sea level (actual limit will be about 37 psia - local atmospheric pressure). Why use a workaround parameter (MRP corrected) which still has a limit of about 22psi when you can use the direct/exact figure from MRP 4-byte with no effective limit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 because race sedan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Here is a log from this morning.romraiderlog_20120325_100733.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 You're not even close to your targets. BTW, you don't need to log both the target boost and the boost error. You only need boost error. Take out target boost and save yourself a bit of resolution. Also get rid of final fueling base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Ok thanks for the info. I was just going with what was suggested on romraider. After I get back from DC this week I am going to change out my TB hose and see if that helps. I am hoping it is not the turbo inlet that is leaking because I read that those are a pita to change out and I don't wanna pay someone else to do something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Thought you had a leaky IC...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 I jbwelded the IC (this is a log from that) and I logged it before and still didn't get to 13.5 ( got to 11psi as you can see in this last log) so I borrowed a known good oem IC and it still did not get past 11psi so I am ruling out the IC. After I get back from DC I am join to change out the TB hose with a good one and see how that goes. If it is not that then I am goin to change out the BPV and see if that is it. If either of those 2 are not the problem I am taking it to the garage. I am tired of spending $/time on trying to get this right instead of using it to upgrade to stage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 How does your LV look currently, and how many miles of driving have you done on it, and what type of driving? You may not have a leak anymore, depending on how the fuel trims look... Your WGDC are only in the 50s and 60s, but I think seabass said that's abnormal if TD can't compensate sufficiently... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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