iNVAR Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Haha... Well, sorry for your troubles, keep us posted. Take it easy on the car until you figure everything out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 if you have tgv deletes you need to disable those codes. if you do not have deletes and messed with them, or they were ever messed with, you/they didnt reinstall the position sensors correctly- theres a method of reinstallation. sensors in question are on the back of the manifold on the pass side and on the front side of the mani on the drivers side. they are spring load and need to be set and clocked 90* and then bolted in. sometimes when there's a sticking tgv people will just disable the code, it's okay if the tgv's are stuck open but not if they are stuck closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 haha no the original owner is a Russian from there. haha. And for obvious reasons I don't think I should post his info on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Finally, someone who has a clue (no offense seabass, I'm just as clueless heheh) chimes in. Thanks bmx!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 whenever you take a tgv sensor off you need to reinstall in that method, you cant just push it on and bolt it in. it will throw all those codes. i did a writeup i think on tgv reinstallation, search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 To BMX, if the TGV was stuck closed, wouldn't the car run bad/slow and I wouldn't even be able to get close to 13psi? Is that why I would need more WG to get to the target boost? Also, If this is not correct, would me not being able to hit target boost on the stock map mean I have a boost leak? If it could mean I have a leak, is there a spot(s) that I should check to see if this is so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 if the tgv was stuck closed your car would sound like its choking and idle really rough and stumbly. a boost leak will certainly cause you to underboost. checking a learning view for idle trims way off can indicate a vac/boost leak....its just finding it is the hard part. i didnt read this whole thread so i dont know if you checked a lv. if you're excessively knocking the ecu will drop timing across the board and cut boost control down to wastegate pressure (7-9psi) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 I am on my way into town now so I will post a LV and a log when I get in (I have a good straight flat road that no one is on in town that I use). The last LV I checked after I loaded the stock tune (and fixed up so no CEL's) my % changed was less than the tune I had on there before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Here is a log (4th gear) and my new LV. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aqyb7dV8je9mdDBYZzdqOUd3MmVzTFlVLXJYVjFubWc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Lv looks perfect. I didnt look at the log. Im on my phone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Well I only hit a max of 10.5psi so I think I will have to raise the WGDC. Now my question on changing those numbers. I know to only change by small increments, log and see if I need to raise/lower. Now my question is where exactly do I change the numbers (I know in the max WGDC table) but do I change only the numbers in the last couple columns for the appropriate rpm range, or across the whole rpm range (row) for all raw torque request? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I wouldn't change anything until you find out why you are only hitting 10.5 psi you should see 13.5 on a stock tune 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted February 22, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted February 22, 2012 That depends on how you want it. You could just increase wot wgdc by 10 or 15%. Or you could increase by a percentage after a certain throttle. There are a lot of ways to do it. Since you are just starting out, the easiest thing to do would be to just scale a column by a percentage. Maybe start by highlighting around 75% throttle to wot and multiply by 1.1. Then log and see what you get. But I think you should fix the problem before trying to fix boost with a bandaid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Agree with seabass. Don't ignore the problem. Figure out what it is. Hell, for all you know, the reason your LV looks clean is because whoever had the car before tweaked some tables to make it look okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 So i realized why i got a secondary air system cose the other day... I dont have one. I wish there was a tuner close to me that i could drop my car off and for them to tell me what else my car is missing/wrong. I never realized it was missing before because i compared my engine bay to my brothers (06LGT) and they didnt have one because of their catted uppipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 So I need some help. I started my car yesterday and opened the hood to see if I could hear any leaks, I heard a clicking noise up by the TGV on the driver side. I'm not sure if it's the TGV clicking or if it is a valve or something. Attached is a video of it and I was hoping you guys could help me out. I am building a boost leak tester today to see if I have a boost leak somewhere. If they comes back clean I am going to take off my DP and see how my wastegate looks. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6yb7dV8je9mYnBjbHdzd2lRREtjMGhCM3F0Q1FCZw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 that's normal valve chatter. not tgv related Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks. I thought it was but i wanted to make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 So I am still trying to figure out why I am not hitting my target boost on the stock map. I have a question... I have read that if the restrictor pill is in the wrong place/not there it will prematurely open the waste gate causing you to not reach your target. Now I tried reading where the pill should be. I read it should be in the hose going to the compressor side of the turbo (i.e. after the T where the hose goes into the actuator. correct?) I opened up my hood and pulled off the plastic engine cover. When I look at the hoses connected to the actuator, it feels like the pill is before the plastic T that goes into the actuator? So if I am reading correctly, the pill is in the wrong area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/kk459/t_racer69/SubaruBoostSystem_1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Thanks for the photo. Thats what I was looking for. It seems like my restrictor pill is in the right position. I guess I am going to have to pull the down pipe off and check the waste gate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 I did some more investigating today to see where I am losing boost before I pull the DP off. Seems that on my passengers side front of the IC that a couple of the tabs were not where they should be (attached photo). I used a pair of pliers to squeeze them back. Looks like I will be doing the JB Weld mod here soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 5, 2012 Glad you figured it out. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I'm having a similar problem. I don't think jb weld will be enough. Look up the bulletproof intercooler mod. I'm just going to tighten the tabs back down and use the c-channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 I looked at the intercooler before but I never really noticed the tabs. They weren't that far out of line that you would notice with a quick glance. Looks like I am going to be looking for a new stock IC or save some money for an aftermarket. Wish I could have saved that money for a new DP and tune but oh well. Edit: Went for a test drive after I ref lashed to the stock map. Getting to 10.72PSI... didn't solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4eb3a-7c4e-a446.jpg So i took off my intercooler and dp. Wastegate looks normal, no shaft play and wastegate actuator worked fine. I noticed on the intercooler that there were more fins messed up on the bottom. I put some quicksteel.. It's kinda like jbweld on the IC. I let it dry and took my car out for a drive. Got it up to 11.5 psi. Im goin to chalk it up to the ic being blown. I am goin to buy a cheap used oem ic($50) to see if that is for sure what it is. Whats i get it all back to stock psi, here comes stage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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