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Both Cusco braces that they have available for my car.

 

Also, a couple of my friends want me to get a lazer and do mischievious things with it. http://www.wickedlasers.com/lasers/Spyder_III_Pro_Arctic_Series-96-37.html

 

I think cusco has more than just 2 braces available. Do you mean the upper strut tower braces for the front/rear? Or the lower braces?

 

I suspect the front sway bar would make a more noticeable difference, but installation is more difficult.

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I think cusco has more than just 2 braces available. Do you mean the upper strut tower braces for the front/rear? Or the lower braces?

 

I suspect the front sway bar would make a more noticeable difference, but installation is more difficult.

 

The lower front and rear braces. The ones circled in red fit the LGT. The one circled in yellow is for autos only.

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/Cusco1.png

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/Cusco2.png

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Tough call.

 

I have those lower front braces and similar rear braces and am happy with the setup. Initial turn in seems a little sharper. The rear braces + rsb + end links has taken care of the excessive rear end roll.

 

I can't comment on the fsb, but its on my list too.

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Tough call.

 

I have those lower front braces and similar rear braces and am happy with the setup. Initial turn in seems a little sharper. The rear braces + rsb + end links has taken care of the excessive rear end roll.

 

I can't comment on the fsb, but its on my list too.

 

I know, I need to make a decision soon. Paycheck is a coming soon.

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This is how I installed the GTSPEC Front Strut Brace on my car. The whole installation process will take from 10-20 minutes. You will need the following items:

 

12mm socket wrench

17mm wrench

 

 

 

1. Unscrew all the nuts using the 12mm socket that hold the struts up for both sides. Don't worry if the struts will fall if you are doing the installation on flat ground.

 

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120203_173359.jpg

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120203_173407.jpg

 

2. Place the brace over the bolts. Note: The brace is adjustable at the joints so that you can loosen it up if you want to have an easier time of slipping the brace on the bolts. This will require a 17mm socket or wrench

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120203_173538.jpg

 

3. Screw the nuts back in and do it evenly on all 3 bolts as in the picture above. Note: If you unscrew the joints, screw it tight after you screw on the mounts.

 

 

4. Sit back and you are done!

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120203_173959.jpg

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I noticed you have a Valentine one. Do you have any pics on how you mounted it or installed it?

 

I am looking into purchasing one and possibly putting the remote on it... I have been reading all kinds of forms and posts about them and I am still really lost. Part of me just wants to bring it to a audio shop and have them install it for me so I don't mess up my interior. I really want it to be a clean install.

 

If possible I would like to have it setup so I can take it down and no one will ever know it was there. Not having a huge bracket mount for it that will be obvious...

 

Most of the posts I was reading were from back in 2005, is the valentine one still one of the best? Still practical device or is radar detection growing to be a thing of the past...

 

Sorry if this is a repeat question

 

Thanks for the help!

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As an avid speeder, I'd have to throw my opinion on this.... the V1 has been outdated for the cost. Although still a very good detector, Bel (and its sister Passport) is leading in that department now. I run a Bel STi Magnum for major reasons. I love the remote mute control! Now they have GPS wired ones that download any speed camera zones and what not to warn you ahead of time. The biggest downfall is that because it picks up radar SOOOOO far away, you actually have to wait miles till you come up on the cop - especially if he is doing instant on (using the "hold") button on the gun. However, one of the other benefits is that you can add the laser jammers to them. The top Laser Jammers however (IMHO) are the M27 and M47 made by Blinder....expensive but..... it takes about two blocks to pay for itself.... great site for knowledge: http://www.radarbusters.com/ good luck. (ps. funny side note: my wife's a cop!) hahahahahahaha
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One of the selling points are the arrows. In order for a gun to pull a reading on you can only be from the back or the front - radar doesn't work at a perpendicular / heavy angled hit... it then would actually read that you are standing still - so that is why most of the top detectors today just pull forward and rear antennas. Again, the V1 is a great detector but has not been updated since...I think... 2005 - which the radar guns and laser guns have. Of course if you are driving through a state that is anti detector....having that detection blocker is nice too. :)
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The side facing arrows help identify false alarms and show when you pass radar. In conjunction with the radar counter can show that the threat isn't over.

 

It's almost impossible to find unbiased radar detector tests. Even the link you provided is for a site that wants to sell radar detectors. It's not a surprise they don't recommend a detector they can't sell.

 

Radar and laser operating frequencies are regulated. If those frequencies haven't changed, then updates really aren't necessary. And Valentine will do software updates on older models, just plug in your serial number and you can find out any software updates.

 

A radar detector is just a tool. You gotta speed smart.

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I noticed you have a Valentine one. Do you have any pics on how you mounted it or installed it?

 

I am looking into purchasing one and possibly putting the remote on it... I have been reading all kinds of forms and posts about them and I am still really lost. Part of me just wants to bring it to a audio shop and have them install it for me so I don't mess up my interior. I really want it to be a clean install.

 

If possible I would like to have it setup so I can take it down and no one will ever know it was there. Not having a huge bracket mount for it that will be obvious...

 

Most of the posts I was reading were from back in 2005, is the valentine one still one of the best? Still practical device or is radar detection growing to be a thing of the past...

 

Sorry if this is a repeat question

 

Thanks for the help!

 

I love my V1.

 

I just leave it mounted in the middle of the windshield though. I have the bracket in all 3 cars and I just move it from car to car.

 

I have it currently mounted on my windshield. I do plan to get a Blendmount for it eventually. I do like and it has been really helpful, I love it. I still keep my eyes on the road to look out for cops due to them being easier seen then on the radar detector.

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Here is my walkthrough for installing this product on my car. I hope it helps those that read it and want to buy this product.

 

Products

Whiteline Rear Sway Bar 24mm - BSR49XXZ

Rallitek HD Rear Endlinks

 

Tools

12mm socket and wrench

13mm socket and wrench

14mm socket and wrench

17mm socket and wrench

OPTIONAL: drill with a 25/64 drill bit

 

 

1) Unscrew all connections for the old sway bar and endlinks and take them out apporiately.

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_181732.jpg

 

Here is a quick comparison of the size difference for both sway bars and endlinks.

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_181716.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_182153.jpg

 

2) Make sure that the endlink screw fits into each of the holes for it to go through. For me, I didn't do that till I already had it mounted and was wrestling with it along with my friend to get it in when the hole had been drilled a tad too small. If any of the holes are a bit too small, take the drill with the 25/64 bit and make it a bit bigger, just enough for the screw to easily slide in.

 

 

 

3) Mount the sway bar on the endlinks. NOTE: There are 3 different hole positions for each side, the furthest away from the bar is "soft" setting, middle the "average" setting, and "hard" for the closest pair of holes. I mounted mine on the Hard setting. Once mounted on the endlinks, put the big clamp bushings on and clamp it/screw it back in with the plate.

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_203251.jpg

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_203327.jpg

 

4) Mount the Rear Sway Braces that come with sway as in the other walkthrough that I did for the GTSPEC Rear Sway Brace.

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_183322.jpg

 

5) You're done! The whole process can take about an 1-2 hours depends if the holes are drilled correctly, if you have a friend helping you out, I did, or just the usual stubbornness of the car itself.

 

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_203416.jpg

 

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x51/redstriker09/Car%20mods/IMG_20120221_203422.jpg

 

 

My whole impression is that the rear is more firm and actually will stay squat in the corners now. I took it for a small spin after I installed to MickeyD's for food. It is a night and day difference. So glad that I did this modification.

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