Eroc75 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Ok, so I finally removed my ACT HDSS. (The one that started slipping 600 miles after installation). 5 of the forks have the tips sheared off! Throwout bearing looks fine.. So, I'm going trough the process of sending it off to ACT to see what they decide the cause was. Because, bottom line, I did not cause this. I shouldn't have to pay for this. $1400 for the ACT, and now another $1400 for the ClutchMasters fx300 I just got put in. Ryan at ACT has looked at the pics I've sent and can come up with only one idea. Preload. Like the bearing was always at least slightly engaged... Why? no pedal adjustment upon installation. Ugh... Apparently, the pedal needed to be backed off enough for the bearing to not be in constant contact with the forks. This didn't happen, and a $600 clutch was quickly ruined. I really hate it if this is the case. Mostly because the guys at my shop aren't only my tuners, but they're my friends. Would much rather ACT say, "oops, our bad! We gave you a shitty part!" But it doesn't look like that will be the case. So at least on the best possible note.. I cannot believe how perfect this fx300 (with an ACT LWFW) is. Perfect feel, perfect engagement. PERFECT! I regret not getting this one in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Wonder what the shop will say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eroc75 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hopefully, I can get something from ACT saying this is the definite cause of the problem. Can't imagine the guys not hooking me up in some way.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I've never heard of the clutch pedal needing to be adjusted when the ACT PP is installed. Wouldn't installing a return spring back the bearing off enough also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Clearly your throw-out bearing was either not spinning or it was installed wrong causing metal-on-metal grinding against the clutch. This is an install problem, not an ACT problem. Clutch failures within 600 miles is certainly indicative of improper installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Was everything lubricated prior to being reinstalled? I have grease covering my tranny snout and TSK sleeve so the bearing slides freely. Also, did you notice any noise when the ACT was installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citka Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 You say you have an ACT LWFW. How does that compare to the stock WRX FW that many LGT'ers use? If it's lighter, do you have any drivability issues...stalling...high revving from stops, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARCruiser Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I am curious about the drive-ability of the LGT with a LWFW as well. I've driven several other vehicles with a LWFW and while they do take a little getting used to, I never felt they had any real detriment to drive-ability. Just curious if that's the same with the LGT also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 LWFW is a detriment to drive-ability if you are talking about normal driving. Much quicker to stall and requires a feather like touch in bumper to bumper compared to oem style. LWFW is not a detriment to drive-ability if you are trying to match-rev shift into a turn on a track. LWFW IS a detriment to drive-ability if you are trying to launch from 0 and run a 1/8 or 1/4 mi. Is it DDable? Absolutely. This is exaggerated by what I consider an overly light (13lb) flywheel that I had ran. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 LWFW's stink. That failure is definitely an install error. I wish I knew why people weren't buying the FX200. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 massive TQ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypher0117 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 me too bac. I thought long and hard between the fx200 and 300. ended up with the 300 because the internet said so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 But the 300 just seems like overkill. There's no reason to use more clutch than you need. Ever. That said, I don't want to guinea pig the 200 unless CM wants to give me one for free to report on. Looks like I'll just got ACT... installed correctly, of course. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowImg Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Somehow I suspect you could make that CM thing happen -- probably not free, but certainly a discount for providing a review to the community. Granted, how everyone has compared the ACT to the 300, it seems like you can't lose by going to the 300 over the ACT either way. The question I guess is just is the 200 as good? I'd like to know as well. Though I have a bit of a different situation, hooray 6MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I have 72,000 miles on my Spec LWFW. I can't drive at 40mph in 5th gear. To take off from a stop sign, I have to rev it 3 times to get a smooth roll off. My Spec B with the OEM set up I only have to rev it twice to roll off, or once. The LWFW will continue to rev a few rpm when I push in the clutch just palying around quick shitfing into 2nd and then coast, like in a parking lot. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowImg Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Why do you have to rev more than once either way to take off from a stop? I'm not familiar with this technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypher0117 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I think everyone is in the same boat. They don't want to be the guinea pig for the 200. I have 2200 miles on the 300 now and I can say that it's better than I expected. I do have a choppy/stuttery engagement in 1st gear sometimes which I don't think would happen with the 200 because the 200 is a full faced disk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 But the 300 just seems like overkill. There's no reason to use more clutch than you need. Ever. In general I wholeheartedly agree with you but headroom is not the worst thing for someone who may got bigger and bigger or then go e85, meth, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Why do you have to rev more than once either way to take off from a stop? I'm not familiar with this technique. I rev the car very little may be 1500 to 1800rpm. I think I get less slippage that way. I learned to drive a stick on a 1970 VW back in 1972. I think everyone is in the same boat. They don't want to be the guinea pig for the 200. I have 2200 miles on the 300 now and I can say that it's better than I expected. I do have a choppy/stuttery engagement in 1st gear sometimes which I don't think would happen with the 200 because the 200 is a full faced disk I have found that if I side step the clutch in neutral I can stop that from happening. I have also found that if I baby the car to much the clutch will chatter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 My friend with an 09 wrx and ACT street clutch has to do that double rev up for a happy engagement too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Why do you have to rev it more than once, though? [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypher0117 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I have found that if I side step the clutch in neutral I can stop that from happening. I have also found that if I baby the car to much the clutch will chatter. So you're saying I drive like a nancy? I've actually noticed the same thing. It gets much easier to engage if I drive spirited. Maybe the clutch disk is like track pads and needs to be warmed up to be fully functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Why do you have to rev it more than once, though? Smoother engagement...? When I'm by myself and I want to play I'll just rev it and go. But when I have a passenger or drive like a nancy I try and get it smoother less of an impact on the back of the seat. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowImg Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Interesting -- based on recommendations I read here (I've only been driving a manual a couple months), I actually try to start the car moving without touching the throttle unless I'm in a hurry. I actually let it engage at idle, starts out around 900-1000, and drops to about 700 as I slip it, and then try to bring it up to about 1500 as it engages. Maybe I'm doing it wrong though. The Legacy is VERY difficult to drive I find -- maybe because I do this, but it's the only way I can get it to engage smooth. If I do anything else, short of revving it to like 2200-2300 and slipping it, it kind of complains/stutters a lot. My RS with a 5 speed is a different beast -- I can do just about anything to it and it'll happily move along with no arguments. Unless it refuses to go into 1st gear at all, which is a different argument entirely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yayo Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 So you're saying I drive like a nancy? I've actually noticed the same thing. It gets much easier to engage if I drive spirited. Maybe the clutch disk is like track pads and needs to be warmed up to be fully functional. ^^^ I've notice that too, I unfortunately do drive like a grandma, and not only does my FX300 + Sti flywheel chatter, but I recently started feeling some pedal vibration when releasing the clutch. =/ It's like she wants me to abuse her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.