mnstrmech Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0612142351a_zps0298b63f.jpg Picked up a roll of the Titanium exhaust wrap. Gonna be wrapping the manifolds this weekend. I had to remove the heatshields a while back to weld up a couple cracks, so i wanna just keep down some under hood temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 So much win! Awesome Here it is: http://i.imgur.com/36eBJ6cl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4MZ8brll.jpg http://i.imgur.com/xTQ85M3l.jpg Does anyone here know what is required to turbo this motor? I.E. can I use some ej22t parts to make it happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) turboing an na car.... the biggest deal is the front subframe, a turbo subframe has clearance for the turbo manifolds. ive seen some people cut up the subframe to make clearance but I wouldnt recomend it. I have an extra ej22t intake manifold w injectors but shipping now days is getting pricey. Edited June 13, 2014 by USLiberty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 turboing an na car.... the biggest deal is the front subframe, a turbo subframe has clearance for the turbo manifolds. ive seen some people cut up the subframe to make clearance but I wouldnt recomend it. I have an extra ej22t intake manifold w injectors but shipping now days is getting pricey. Hmmm, so I will need to either find a front subframe, which I imagine will be a nightmare, or I can just leave this thing n/a. Is doing head work something that is even worth the time/money? Just looking to have a little more than the stock 130hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 just got heads back from the machine shop. boil tanked, checked for cracks, head surface machined, painted high temp flat black. misc parts done in silver. coming together nicely... get new HGs, head bolts... and other new bits and pieces as it gets put back together. http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa474/sqc151/MarkyMark%20Subarus/20140610_120150_zpseoz9kcix.jpg Mind if I ask what it cost you to have this done? Looking to do the same thing before installing my new motor and trying to get an idea of how much I will be spending. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Getting the heads decked only runs about $75. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 professional headwork is probably not a great bang for your buck. You could port n polish your exhaust manifold with some porting tools, youd want to use the carbide bits and not the grinding stones. It will take a whole afternoon but its something you can do yourself. Just port enough to match the exhaust manifold gaskets, might get a few ponies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Wow I just paid $120 to have mine cleaned, decked and pressure checked. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 New plugs, compression checked at 125psi all around which isnt bad for a 8:1 compression motor. washed it, and a little fuel map tuning made my day. Time to bump up the rev limit and play with timing zones. Pulls dead even with my buddies lightweight bugeye wrx with a V6 jdm sti converted to RWD. Not too bad for a 25year old EJ20g that cost 650$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I can't wait to see your custom LCA's, be sure to include details on fabrication of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I just finished wrapping my manifolds with DEI's Titanium Exhaust wrap. BIG difference in under hood temps! I removed the heats shields closet to the block and started there. I also removed the cat shield and the two other shields. Started from the inlet side and wrapped to the cat, Reinstalled the cat shield and two pipe shields which clamp the wrap nicely. Much cooler temps under the hood AND noticed a 1-2 degree cooler a/c!. Matbe even slightly quieter exhaust too. http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0615141045_zps87714f93.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I just bit the bullet for wheels.... http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/rims_zpse6c02c07.jpg 15" Forester steel wheels, but that's what i want. They will be cleaned up, primed and painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 thats 75 per head. No, that was for both heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Probably! It was subikid's machine shop so who knows! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Ditched the small trans cooler i installed a couple weeks ago, this http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0531141834_zpsf58e39c2.jpg For a much better set up, http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0625141027_zps9807ba65.jpg Its actually out of a newer Pt Cruiser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I love working at a shop. The perks are awesome. Just picked up a second starter for my car. When we install new parts, their is no core, so the part is ours, as in MINE. i save all my aluminum and scrap metal. This is a an oem subaru starter i replaced just because it "ticked" every so often So i tore it apart, cleaned the commutator, greased the gears and have a new plunger and contacts on order from ebay for 11 bucks. http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0626141459_zps93c0907f.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Scored a free K & N air filter for my legacy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Dropped mine off at the shop to get all body work and a full respray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Got tires balanced then I replaced pcv hoses/clamps, new dipstick O_ring, bypassed throttle body coolant lines and cleaned the engine bay with degreaser. Ready to rip up some mountain roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Dropped mine off at the shop to get all body work and a full respray Sticking with white? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Sticking with white? Yeah, a different white, but still white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalton95070 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I have an ancient Subaru Legacy wagon (1993 L4 non-turbo california) that I want to put an oil cooler on. It doesn't need it except for towing, but what the hey? These things don't look difficult or expensive. I can see that I want braided stainless lines and threaded connections, otherwise I will be replacing the lines every couple of years. So I have two questions. All oil coolers that I have seen use a "sandwich plate" to divert the oil from the filter out to the radiator and then back again. Since there is a LARGE diversity of oil filters at the "Pep Boys" and other outlets, how can one "sandwich plate" fit them all? What do I really have to know? It seems that the filters just have a few parameters: ID and thread size, OD, and surface area. The actual length and DIA matter a little (for fit in the engine compartment) but not a lot (and not at all to the "sandwich plate" question). How many of variants of "sandwich plate" are there? And why do the sellers claim their "sandwich plate" is "UNIVERSAL"? Seems impossible, across Ford, Chevy, Triumph, Lotus...... WTF?!? My second question is about the lines that connect the sandwich plate to the radiator. If just using rubber lines and hose clamps, the lines can be trimmed to any custom length. But I can see that the braided stainless jackets with threaded connectors will last a lot longer. How does one get the correct lengths for the tubes in this case? It seems that they cannot be cut/adjusted at home. Am I wrong about this? Perhaps one can buy them from Pep Boys in one inch increments? I know that for more modern cars such as Impreza and WRX there are kits that provide specific solutions. But my car is much older. It seems likely that some Impreza/WRX kits could be adapted for my car, but the devil is in the details. I am asking the assembled gurus here for some details. Please help me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 No need for an oil cooler, simply use good quality synthetic oil and you'll be fine. The concesus from here and other Subaru boards, including my personal preference, is to run Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic. I run it 10,000 miles and it still has some color when i drain it. If you have an automatic, on the other hand, THEN i would think about a cooler. I JUST put one in from a 07 PT Cruiser, cause of the design suits the bottom of the grill perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Just did a quick stint back to Nebraska Thursday and came back to Boise yesterday. Totalled out to be 1816miles in my 91 averaged 26.2. Not bad for 206k. Cruise control set at 78-86 the whole time didn't have to downshift once up some monster hills. Lil torque monster kept truckin. No oil usage either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 After 9 months of tinkering and rebuilding my motor she breathes..port and blend workson the 2.2 and I have pretty good flow through those heads finally..it pulls good power drop off is at around 5k and sounds super clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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