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LED Instrument Cluster, HVAC, Etc..


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  • 1 month later...
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I followed blackstar's walkthrough over on Sl-i.net (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14157). No sense in redoing his hard work.

 

I did however do one thing differently. I didn't have to remove my heater control cable, not sure if I just got lucky or if my car has a slightly longer one but I was able to pull my heater controls literally in my lap while sitting in the drivers seat and the cable connected.

 

If you want specific pics of things let me know I'd be glad to do so.

 

Also if you want to change the window controls, mirror controls, and shifter (AT) lights here are the bulbs that he doesn't list

 

Window & Mirror controls: Neo-xHP 3mm

Shifter lighting: 74-xHP

 

Couple other things about LED's:

 

I found that the traditional LED's were darker than any SMD LED I tried. The SMD tends to be a bit lighter (more washed out) which is what I used as I was going for the aqua color that comes in the new Camarao's.

 

It's not exact but pretty close.

 

How many bulbs would you need to to all 4 doors controls you think? I just ordered mine for the dash and guages the other day :D but didn't see you added the bulbs for the door controls :( lol oh well just have to order more.

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You're correct, however it is not a twist out bulb. It is soldered to the pcb under the actual button. I have not ventured to replace it because I haven't had time recently but you'll have to buy a single led bulb and solder it in.

 

The heated mirror button has an orange light. I changed it to blue. It is a twist bulb, T3 I think.

 

The power mirror controls do not light up.

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To all the other questions...

 

The needle will light up red because the needle is painted red. The brightness of the light you put behind it will either make the needle brighter or dimmer. Red LEDs will probably not make it as bright because red LEDs in general are not very bright. Blue LEDs are very bright and will make the needles brighter. White will make them very bright You do not need individual bulbs to make the needles light up.

 

Red dash, red car....why not? I think it would look pretty good!

 

In terms of angle, mine are all 360 degree bulbs. The wider the angle the less chance of getting hot spots.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My cruise, fog and heated wiper switches all took a T3 twist style bulb. Beware though that it will not ilimonate very well. I took each switch apart and spray painted every surface that reflects the light with chrome.

 

It looked very dull at it's best before I did this. Bow each switch lights up nice. I did not change the lights on any of the orange indicators anywhere in the car (ie: let's you know what switch is on).

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers yea

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I have a question if I can ask. The superbrightleds website indicates at least some of the bulbs are polarized & will work only 1 way in the socket. Is there a way to tell without installing the assembled bulb & holder into the cluster & then plugging it into dashboard if they are installed correctly? My car must have been built late in the year & I guess they were running low on wire - :mad: - there sure isn't enough slack to plug in the cluster unless it is in position. There's just enough room to get it in & out behind the wheel - not something I want to do more than I have to.
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Unfortunately no there isn't. If they were component LED's yes because the anode (simply put: positive lead) is longer than the cathode (simply put: negative lead). But because they are installed on a base it is impossible to tell because they usually clip each lead to the same length to wrap around the base sufficiently.

 

Trial and error my friend. Yes it is a pain for some people, but the results are def worth it IMO.

 

Cheers.

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Unfortunately no there isn't. If they were component LED's yes because the anode (simply put: positive lead) is longer than the cathode (simply put: negative lead). But because they are installed on a base it is impossible to tell because they usually clip each lead to the same length to wrap around the base sufficiently.

 

Trial and error my friend. Yes it is a pain for some people, but the results are def worth it IMO.

 

Cheers.

 

OK - if the bulb doesn't illuminate, would you then just remove the base/bulb assembly from the instrument cluster, turn it 180 degrees, & reinstall? Or, do you have to pull the bulb from the base & turn it 180 degrees?

 

Probably a stupid question I know - thanks....

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  • 3 months later...

Assuming you already have the hvac unit out...

 

There are 3 twist lock bulbs in the back: 2 for all 3 knobs and 1 for the 3 buttons. They should have green or grey bases (mine were grey). Use a small flathead and needle nose to remove these from the unit. Install new bulbs, plug in and test to make sure they all illuminate.

 

Any questions just ask.

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