brewhaha Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Im glad I caught this. Its time for a oil change, plugs etc. Im gonna give it a shot. Do you suggest any particular filter? The last 2 changes I used K&N Gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I use Purolator PureOne filters with good results...plus, they are only $5 each! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 4, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted January 4, 2011 I stick with oem due to the higher pressure bypass valve. Considering the banjo filter likes to clog, I would prefer to have the most filtered oil possible. Especially with the high oil pressures in our engines. The lower the bypass pressure, the more oil will slip by unfiltered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutler Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I use the Rotella in my wagon.....good stuff combined with a stock filter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoisonousBeef Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Can anyone find ASTM data for Rotella? Wondering how it performs in some of the standard tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 It is so superior that the standard tests don't apply. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoisonousBeef Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 It is so superior that the standard tests don't apply. In that case, have you heard of anyone running it in a Delorean? I'm wondering how it holds up to 1.21 jigawatts and what kind of TBN you get after a temporal paradox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 In that case, have you heard of anyone running it in a Delorean? I'm wondering how it holds up to 1.21 jigawatts and what kind of TBN you get after a temporal paradox. :lol: Oh come on, Rao has some very good info and has posted many a discussion about oils. I kinda don't blame him for his remarks. I just wish he would understand that this is an investigate thread instead of pooping on it. Plus he has a gorgeous BMW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 ^no, rao is sarcastic because it plainly obvious that most oils and oil filters, changed regularly, will be more than adequate for any engine. this seemingly neverending quest to find the magic super oil/filter is a trivial waste of time. (unless you have a spec b;)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 No sarcasm here. I don't understand why any other manufactures even bother to produce motor oils following the introduction of Rotella T6 oil. I'd have thought most of them would have either copied it or closed up. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Precisely..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I only use German Rotella, hard to find but worth every Deutchmark. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 So would it be safe to say that I can grab an off-brand oil from 7-11, slap it in my car, and do a good 3 heats and then a main during a race without worry of shearing the oil? That's what I want to know. I plan on doing probably 4 or 5 events a year, if that. And the summers in this area can be grueling to say the least. Perhaps if I throw this into the scenario, it may warrant a different response. Granted the oil will still be changed at the end of the event, and since Rotella is already super cheap at $16/1 gallon, not to mention everyone and their grandmother swears by this oil (across multiple car brands), I figure why not start an investigative thread about Rotella and see what people say. So I am going to change this thread's direction and say, Rotella T6 5W-40... God Send for Racing events? <-- Note the question mark. Not a statement, just a question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoisonousBeef Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 So would it be safe to say that I can grab an off-brand oil from 7-11, slap it in my car, and do a good 3 heats and then a main during a race without worry of shearing the oil? That's what I want to know. I plan on doing probably 4 or 5 events a year, if that. And the summers in this area can be grueling to say the least. Perhaps if I throw this into the scenario, it may warrant a different response. Granted the oil will still be changed at the end of the event, and since Rotella is already super cheap at $16/1 gallon, not to mention everyone and their grandmother swears by this oil (across multiple car brands), I figure why not start an investigative thread about Rotella and see what people say. So I am going to change this thread's direction and say, Rotella T6 5W-40... God Send for Racing events? <-- Note the question mark. Not a statement, just a question. The problem you're going to have is that you are going to get 99% subjective, anecdotal information, rather than anything reliable or factual. I know the 7-11 thing is a joke, but the truth is that you probably could run just about any API-certified oil in your car and you would be fine. There are stories about people going 300,000 miles in a Plymouth Voyager using the cheapest oil available, and there are stories of people running full Group-IV synthetics and trashing their motor in a month. Neither really proves anything, except that the degree to which buying what is perceived by the masses as a "quality" oil results in returns that are difficult to quantify, even on an individual basis. If you want to pay for the regular UOA's you will obviously be more informed about what's going on in your engine, but that still doesn't necessarily tell us everything about the oil. If Rotella gives you peace of mind, maybe that's all that really matters. You will certainly never run out of people who want to argue with you about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 ....and /thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 The problem you're going to have is that you are going to get 99% subjective, anecdotal information, rather than anything reliable or factual. I know the 7-11 thing is a joke, but the truth is that you probably could run just about any API-certified oil in your car and you would be fine. There are stories about people going 300,000 miles in a Plymouth Voyager using the cheapest oil available, and there are stories of people running full Group-IV synthetics and trashing their motor in a month. Neither really proves anything, except that the degree to which buying what is perceived by the masses as a "quality" oil results in returns that are difficult to quantify, even on an individual basis. If you want to pay for the regular UOA's you will obviously be more informed about what's going on in your engine, but that still doesn't necessarily tell us everything about the oil. If Rotella gives you peace of mind, maybe that's all that really matters. You will certainly never run out of people who want to argue with you about it. I made bold that sentence for a reason. Blackstone Labs and Dyson Labs do oil tests and can even test the viscosity of the oil you sent in. And given you provide them the mileage at when the oil change was done, they can test and see how much the oil has sheared (if at all) or how much more abuse the oil can take before it is sheared and warrants a change. They also interview you on the phone on how you drive the car as well. So in other words, what I am asking is, UOAs are worthless, in your opinion, for learning more about the oil you are using? As in, I won't find any useful information of how the oil is behaving in my engine? I have a sample of the FFO to be sent in, and then will be sending in another sample with the Motul stuff in my car. Then I will send in a sample with the Rotella T6 5W-40. If my engine reacts differently to the oils, but my driving habit remains the same (which doesn't change much since I do highway driving primarily), then the oil is not the cause? I thank you for the great reply! And yes, the 7-11 oil was a joke. I'm glad there are some people that can read in between the lines without starting a flame war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 since Rotella is already super cheap at $16/1 gallon... Slight threadjack, but where is it $16/gal? $17.xx @ walmart is the best I have found... Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Slight threadjack, but where is it $16/gal? $17.xx @ walmart is the best I have found... Advanced Auto in Germantown, MD off Rte 118. Did a price check on Rotella T6 5W-40 1 gallon (since there was no label on the rack it was sitting on), clerk said $15.99. But I don't know where everywhere else will charge for this oil. If $17 breaks the bank for you, 7-11 sells oil too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 No sarcasm here. I don't understand why any other manufactures even bother to produce motor oils following the introduction of Rotella T6 oil. I'd have thought most of them would have either copied it or closed up. a 1cc drop cured my dogs kennel cough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 18, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted January 18, 2011 a 1cc drop cured my dogs kennel cough. Wow! Maybe if I give a small dose to my children, they will stop bothering me so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 18, 2011 I Donated Share Posted January 18, 2011 Wow! Maybe if I give a small dose to my children, they will stop bothering me so much. It should be the magic bullet, so to speak. Harry -- if you get 7-11 oil, put it in, run a racing event, and replace it, I bet the UOA would come back fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 You can buy oil at a 7-11 Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 It should be the magic bullet, so to speak. Harry -- if you get 7-11 oil, put it in, run a racing event, and replace it, I bet the UOA would come back fine. Well I will see what the results are from the FFO, Motul, and soon the Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. If they all have the same results in terms of shearing and how much more protection is left, I guess this will be a /thread. If not, people got some explaining to do on why they think all oils are the same, no matter the price range, (specifically rao). And yes, rao, the 7-11 near me sells oil. Better run out and buy em!! $4.99/qt!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Advanced Auto in Germantown, MD off Rte 118. Did a price check on Rotella T6 5W-40 1 gallon (since there was no label on the rack it was sitting on), clerk said $15.99. But I don't know where everywhere else will charge for this oil. If $17 breaks the bank for you, 7-11 sells oil too. I was just wondering where else sold it at a good price. Since Wal-Mart only sells Fram filters, I have to go to 2 places. If you had a source to get it for $16 (my Advance charges $24 for it) that also sold quality filters, I'd be all over it. As it is, I can get Advance to match the Wal-Mart price and get my filter there as well, but it is a pain for the guys that work there. Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoisonousBeef Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I made bold that sentence for a reason. Blackstone Labs and Dyson Labs do oil tests and can even test the viscosity of the oil you sent in. And given you provide them the mileage at when the oil change was done, they can test and see how much the oil has sheared (if at all) or how much more abuse the oil can take before it is sheared and warrants a change. They also interview you on the phone on how you drive the car as well. So in other words, what I am asking is, UOAs are worthless, in your opinion, for learning more about the oil you are using? As in, I won't find any useful information of how the oil is behaving in my engine? I have a sample of the FFO to be sent in, and then will be sending in another sample with the Motul stuff in my car. Then I will send in a sample with the Rotella T6 5W-40. If my engine reacts differently to the oils, but my driving habit remains the same (which doesn't change much since I do highway driving primarily), then the oil is not the cause? I thank you for the great reply! And yes, the 7-11 oil was a joke. I'm glad there are some people that can read in between the lines without starting a flame war. I think that if you really care (and yes, I understand why you do) about the properties of the oil you are using and how those properties change over time/miles, then you are a good candidate to pay for some UOAs. I don't think UOAs are worthless. I think they can give you lots of information about what's going on with your motor and the oil that you have in it. I think it's important, however, to note the (appropriately) limited scope of your own statement - "...useful information of how the oil is behaving in my engine[.]" That's exactly what you will get. Useful information about the 4 quarts of oil that are inside your actual engine. What I tend to take issue with is the degree to which people in general try to extrapolate that very limited information into some kind of broad statement regarding a particular oil's virtue. What is the threshold TBN for an oil to perform effectively? How much zinc is really too much? How much does the shear stability matter in actual practice? I would suggest that in reality no one knows the answers to these questions with certainty. At some point you are just playing a game of statistics, and taken to absurdity you could argue in favor of changing the oil every day or, as rao suggests, never driving the car at all. I do know you aren't going this far, and that in reality you are just trying to share some oil-related info for the community benefit, which shouldn't be discouraged. However, the notion of one particular oil being this kind of "magic bullet" of maximum protection for minimum expense has been playing out on the internet for years, and in cold garages for decades before that. I think asking the question just invites this to continue, and that, in my opinion, has never been a very constructive exercise. I'm done commenting on it only because I think we've had our exchange here and there are probably some minor points on which we'll just forever disagree. I'm glad it seems like that disagreement is perceived to be reasonable on both sides. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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