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Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install


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First, you obviously have never seen a bump stop actually work. That bump stop compresses to about 9/32 of an inch. You do NOT want to cut any off. It will cause the Koni to internally bottom out and blow a seal.

 

If you need the travel lost by lowering springs back, either get a set of coil overs or get stock springs. The Epic springs are barely a drop. They are very mild.

 

The mod you referenced was originally for a WRX. It has not been tested and is not DOT approved. If you are ever in an accident and their is an inspection you could have issues. Not likely, but...

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thanks for the info m sprank. Your right, suspension is the part of a car I know least about and I didn't think the bump stop compressed that small...still learning. I'll follow the instructions from the first couple of posts and keep the bump stops how they are.
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I have seen frame by frame shots of bump stops in testing at Ohlins. Scary how small they compress. Would never have thought until they showed me. Bump stop is actually an engineered part of the strut. Not just a rubber bumper to stop from hitting the frame.

 

Not saying the WRX trick wont work. Just dont want to be the guy that finds out the hard way.

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I have had Ralitek springs on my waggy stock struts for about a year now. finaly got the Koni's put on. but was blown away with a 2" lift in the rear! :eek::eek::eek::eek:

honest. im a stickler for measure so ive done it with each change. the front dropped 1/8".

my buddy and i sat and bounced in the trunk (ya we did) to see if anything would shift or settle. but no luck.

so it was late and i needed to get home. loaded, up gear and tools (200#) in the trunk. drove 20 miles and stopped for gas. it lowered about an inch in that time. got home and went out right away and loaded 5 pees in the car. now it sagged. drove aobut 5 miles. eye balled it to be a bit lower still but ab out 1/4" higher than stock struts and Ralitek springs.

i measured and the stock and Koni struts off the car and they are the same.

any ideas whats up? there was a funny Dutch drawing instruction in the box for the rear struts that showed rotating the piston and said 180 degrees for +. 360 degrees for ++ and 720 for ++++. ill get a pic if needed, but what the hell did that mean???

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I have had Ralitek springs on my waggy stock struts for about a year now. finaly got the Koni's put on. but was blown away with a 2" lift in the rear! :eek::eek::eek::eek:

honest. im a stickler for measure so ive done it with each change. the front dropped 1/8".

my buddy and i sat and bounced in the trunk (ya we did) to see if anything would shift or settle. but no luck.

so it was late and i needed to get home. loaded, up gear and tools (200#) in the trunk. drove 20 miles and stopped for gas. it lowered about an inch in that time. got home and went out right away and loaded 5 pees in the car. now it sagged. drove aobut 5 miles. eye balled it to be a bit lower still but ab out 1/4" higher than stock struts and Ralitek springs.

i measured and the stock and Koni struts off the car and they are the same.

any ideas whats up? there was a funny Dutch drawing instruction in the box for the rear struts that showed rotating the piston and said 180 degrees for +. 360 degrees for ++ and 720 for ++++. ill get a pic if needed, but what the hell did that mean???

 

You may have the rear spring perchs on upside down. That would explain the lift.

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They are upside down. I am amazed at how many people do that. Break down your struts again. Flip the rear lower spring perches. If upside down they lift the car at least an inch.

 

yaa, i dont know about that one. i dont want to say im above that but i looked at having them upside down. i.e. cupped up and that would just be odd.

even more odd is that its almost settled to 'normal' height.

would it take time for the oil to 'equalize' and have the piston settle? its just odd. so thought id ask thanks

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Did you drive the car before looking at ride height?

 

Folks just an FYI. After swapping springs or struts you must roll the car back and forth at a minimum to settle the suspension enough to be at ride height. I usually drive the car at least back and forth 50 feet. I like to go around the block and over a bump or two.

 

No amount of bouncing on the car will settle it. It takes driving.

 

After installing lowering springs most cars look higher until you roll them. I try not to let customers see a car fresh on the ground after a suspension swap. Takes too much time to calm them down and explain.

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Ralitek springs had already been on the car. all i did was take out stock struts and put in Koni. lowered, was 2"high. lifted, checked everything. lowered, bounced, rolled back and forth, drove 20 miles and about 1" high. drove 60 miles put 5 friends in and drove 5 miles, only 1/4" high now.

so, i know my springs are not setteling, cause they did that a year ago.

koni's are exact same dementions as stock. why was it 2" high? does the piston need to "settle" though all the oil or equalize?

just curiose because it was observed and no one else has mentioned it. but then again i am extremely observant and record everything.

just putting it out there for others to keep an eye out for.

peace

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System needed to equalize and get worked in. Its new suspension. It happens. All the time. I swear. Even if you pull out and re-install exactly what was in the car, you need to drive around the block before it settles back.
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Would it be okay to reuse the stock springs and get just the Koni dampers? Or would my springs be do for a replacement too? Not looking for a drop or anything... Do springs really get worn and have to be replaced?
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just finished my Koni install with some doner struts from a fellow forum member. I had put Eibach springs on back in February of this year and have been only moderately happy with them since. They were installed on stock struts. Yes body roll in corners was reduced and pitching/diving was reduced a lot but the car never felt...composed.

 

That all changed when I took everything back apart and installed the Koni's. I did 1 full turn from soft in the front and back. All I can say is wow. I'm sad I had to do all this work twice. I should have done it all the first time. Ride height didn't change and was exactly how it sat with the stock struts. It corners much better now. Everything is a bit stiffer than with the stock struts, but there is no more oscillations after hitting bigger bumps. There isn't any more crashing or banging from the front end when I hit big bumps. Overall everything just feels better. The ride is just a bit stiffer than before but much less violent.

 

A+ to FredBeans for this walk-through. It helped out a lot. :cool:

Edited by cypher0117
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had some "fun" this weekend with settings on the Koni's. in prep for loading 4 peeps, 2 bikes and camping gear in the Waggy i cranked all 4 corners. then plans changed and it was just the wife and i in the car. but before we left it was just me, and empty car and empty tank to run errands round seattle.

that thing ghetto civic bumped all over the place! :lol: it was kind of fun. i laughed all over the place. it road and tracked well, but it had that supper quick bounce and stick.

it was wicked in the corners. :wub:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

I have 1 set of front bodies. The rest of my core parts are gone. Once again, cores never returned.

 

I have a PM (or email) asking about a quote for the bodies I have with Konis installed. I just need to get a updated price on the konis as I have none in my own stock right now.

 

But in general, the service is dead. Cant keep it up when I lose the cores. Sorry.

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