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I think AVO makes the best kit out there... For now. I should have a couple FMICs for my LGTs from a company that has been teasing me for almost 4 years. I won't know for a couple months, but these will be better than the AVO when it comes to quality. I'll keep ya posted...

 

Any more info? PM me if you'd like.

 

What's the flow rate in this turbo?

 

Accoridig to TR's website, 640cfm.

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Sad news:

Had a misfire on cylinder 4 today while cruising through a parking lot. Brought it to the shop and went through every possibility it could be. Injector, coil pack, plug. After some more diagnosing, it was concluded to be a burnt valve. New nitrated valves are on order and scheduled to be installed Wednesday. Hoping to have the car back by Thursday and get the tune sorted out. Also hoping that was my issue with random knock.

I hate unexpected expenses...

Edited by Strizzy
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

Good new and bad news.

 

Good news:

Valves are ok.

 

 

Bad news:

Pics explain it pretty well :(

 

Piston ring

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Legacy/IMG_2942.jpg

 

My Malhe #4 piston

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Legacy/IMG_2945.jpg

 

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Legacy/IMG_2941.jpg

 

Cylinder 4

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Legacy/IMG_2943.jpg

 

This sucks.

I babied my car during the break-in and warmed it up before driving, every time. It looks like the edge piston ring caught something on the cylinder wall and somehow folded over and forced between the piston and wall. Shop has never seen that before.

The shop is covering the cost of the re-rebuild. Block is getting machined and 4 new pistons are on order. I'm looking to have my car back a week into January. I get to break-in my motor again. Longest motor build ever.

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Sorry man... This really sucks. Last motor I rebuilt spun a bearing after 100 miles. Not sure if I fucked up the break-in or if the machine shop fucked up on the crank. After fixing that shit I took the break-in period very serious. 1st gear for a hundred miles. Drive up to 3k rpm and let the engine decelerate... Back up, back down. Sucked. There's a break-in walkthrough on Cobb's website somewhere. That's what I used. Motor has about 2k on it now and it runs great.
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My builder has his own specific break-in process that I was to follow. My motor saw no boost (2-3psi at most) and stayed under 3k RPM for the first 1500 miles. Once I was getting into boost (23psi) for tuning is when I started having issues.

I'm just trying to figure out what would cause a forged piston to fail like that.

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Wow. That's some bad luck you seem to have right there!

 

I take it you have another car?

 

Fortunately I do have another vehicle:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Badlands%203-14-09/TJoTM/th_TJoTM_3.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/th_Quarries2.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/strizzy123/Badlands%203-14-09/TJoTM/th_TJoTM_2.jpg

click for larger images

 

I was going to make it my winter project and go crazy with it and re-do the suspension to make it my not-so-daily driver (reason I got the LGT), but the specB said no way and decided to take up all of my Jeep budget for its build.... and then some. :spin::spin::spin:

And it doesn't help that I get 12 MPGs on the highway.

Edited by Strizzy
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Nice TJ! I feel your pain! I had all kinds of plans for my money (long arm kit for my XJ, suspension/wheels for my LGT) until I found that I had 2 cracked ringlands on my LGT...

 

Drove my not-so-stock cherokee for the past 4 months while my leggy was on the other side of the country getting a new shortblock put in.

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I just did a "hard" break-in on my Top-Speed block with coated CP pistons (also had a valve job).

 

We let the engine warm-up, then immediately did 20 mins of methodical 6-9 psi 60-100% throttle runs (with all decel in between) starting at 3000-4500 rpm, then 3000-5500 rpm, then 3000-6700 rpm. Then an oil change.

 

Then I did as many fully warmed up 15 psi pulls as I could in the first 1000 miles.

 

I will now have an oil analysis, but the oil looks very good, gas mileage is great, and power seems up a few from the old block.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got it back and now going through break-in again. I will be installing an AVO FMIC after the break-in is done, so hopefully by the middle of next week. 300 miles and all is well so far.

 

I hope Dylan from DS1 (the shop that was originally supposed to fix it) rots in hell after skipping town and screwing over all his customers and employees.

Six Star Motorsports did a phenomenal job of taking over where Dylan left off and getting me back on the road in a timely manner.

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE:

Well, after all the headaches I've been through with my build, this past Friday I finally got my car tuned and on the road without any type of limitations.

When we first started the road tune, we aimed for a target of 22psi just to see how everything responds. Hit 20psi and my intercooler pipe to throttle body hose pops off. Scared the crap out of me mid pull. 10 minutes later and everything tightened back up and hitting 22psi by around 3k RPMs. Now we shoot for a 26psi target and holy shit. I am seeing 26psi by 3400 RPMs and holding off until a little after 5k before it tapers off to 21psi by 7k RPMs.

This thing is FUN to drive!! It hasn't been on a dyno yet, but just for a reference, logs are showing me my airflow is about 475 g/s.

This was just my pump93 tune. E85 comes mid-summer when I get my twin disc clutch. My Exedy stage 1 doesn't like the new found performance.

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logs are showing me my airflow is about 475 g/s.

 

Thanks for the update. That does sound to be responding pretty nicely. Right up there with the best 20Gs.

 

FWIW 475 g/s is 62.8 lbs/min, or bigger then a GT35R:eek:.... Which you are not flowing.:confused: There are different ways to tune, especially how things are set-up on E85. So if the g/s number isn't accurate it is not a big deal, the end result of the tune can easily be identical.

 

I am curious, what intake, what MAFv, and what IAT?

 

That is what tells the true story.

 

Thanks

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Intake is a KStech 73mm. MAFv, I'm not sure right now, as I don't have my laptop available to pull the map. Outside temps were about 37 degrees. I'm also running AVO's FMIC and Tomei 252 cams.

I'll try to get my laptop in a bit and see what the voltage is.

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Intake is a KStech 73mm. MAFv, I'm not sure right now, as I don't have my laptop available to pull the map. Outside temps were about 37 degrees. I'm also running AVO's FMIC and Tomei 252 cams.

I'll try to get my laptop in a bit and see what the voltage is.

 

At least you have an intake we are familiar with. I am interested to see your results.

 

FWIW a 44 lb/min turbo (like a 20G) will flow more like 47 lbs/min at that temp. Go do some logs when it is -20F.;)

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My TD06-20G turbo by Tomioka Racing is rated to flow around 640cfm, which should equal about 52 lbs/min. Though I have a pre-production/prototype version of the one they now market, and numbers may or may not differ from what is stated on their website. I'll have my laptop tomorrow when I get to work, so I'll pull the map in the morning.
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My TD06-20G turbo by Tomioka Racing is rated to flow around 640cfm, which should equal about 52 lbs/min. Though I have a pre-production/prototype version of the one they now market, and numbers may or may not differ from what is stated on their website. I'll have my laptop tomorrow when I get to work, so I'll pull the map in the morning.

 

That seems a bit off. Almost all garden variety 20Gs are rated at about 640 CFM, which converts to about 44 lbs/min. This conversion of course depends on temp, and air pressure (relative pressure, elevation, etc...) and maybe even humidity.

 

But for the numbers we compare, that 640 cfm sounds like your normal 20G.

 

Your spool numbers also sound like a normal (albeit very well performing) 20g in cold weather.

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475 g/s puts you at about 4.66 volts according to that scale.

 

4.66 volts on a KSTech 73 CAI is really about 360 g/s of airflow, which is 47 lbs/min of airflow.

 

So you have a nice normal well tuned 20G, just the MAF scaling is different, probably his way of tuning E85.

 

FWIW if you were at 70F vs 37F, you would have been flowing more like 44 lbs/min, which is just what the compressor is rated for.:)

 

FWIW I hit 4.84 volts on a 68HTA................ but it was -10F outside.;) In 37F temps I hit just a little less then you, which again is about right, as a TD06-20G should flow a bit more air then a small 5cm 68HTA.

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I'm not on E85 yet. That tune will come hoefully mid-June when I plan on geting a new clutch. But it's still nice to know my build has finally come together. And I thought something was a bit too good to be true when I saw the logs of my airflow. Edited by Strizzy
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