Th3Franz Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I added a 3rd line routed from the evap hard line to the solenoid, which then runs back into the inlet. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I added a 3rd line routed from the evap hard line to the solenoid, which then runs back into the inlet. I am assuming this new line does NOT need to be the some of the high pressure fuel injection line? I assume it is very low pressure if it routes to the inlet tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 This reminds me, I'm going to switch away from the SFC way of getting topfeeds in, and convert to the topfeed standard (TGV housings, rails, injectors). [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I am assuming this new line does NOT need to be the some of the high pressure fuel injection line? I assume it is very low pressure if it routes to the inlet tube? yeah I didnt use my fancy kevlar reinforced line for it. Just fuel-rated rubber hose from the auto parts store. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Bump. Subscibed. Any major concerns with using OEM an 07-09 top feed fuel line assembly with the ID1000's? Obviously I'll have to swap TGV housings as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Bump. Subscibed. Any major concerns with using OEM an 07-09 top feed fuel line assembly with the ID1000's? Obviously I'll have to swap TGV housings as well... You'll have to ditch the strut tower mounted FPR in favor of the fuel rail mounted FPR on 07-09 setup. Some extra parts. In theory 05-06 FPR is better because it has bypass valve that's supposed to keep the fuel cooler by not circulating everything via the rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Fuel's going to absorb heat either way. Is it not just a matter of whether the fuel gets heated prior to injection and little return, vs fuel getting heated with and lots of return (heat being drawn away instead of lingering)? The pan is a giant heat sink, so not a terrible place for it to go. EVAP handles the rest... [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 You'll have to ditch the strut tower mounted FPR in favor of the fuel rail mounted FPR on 07-09 setup. Some extra parts. In theory 05-06 FPR is better because it has bypass valve that's supposed to keep the fuel cooler by not circulating everything via the rails.Could I block off or otherwise disable the new FPR and use the existing? Or is the plumbing completely different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Could I block off or otherwise disable the new FPR and use the existing? Or is the plumbing completely different? The plumbing is not a problem, existing hoses will connect (even if they did not, these are simple hoses with clamps on the column mounted FPR assembly). Interesting idea of disabling FPR. I don't know. You would need to fabricate or get a block-off plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 m sprank posted some excellent pictures here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/changing-top-feed-injectorsi-look-here-pix-fuel-rail-140225.html Wonder if it could be gutted somehow, and plug/cap/crimp the boost reference hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Are using the ID Legacy fuel line kit? Mine has been great with the oe fpr and ID rails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I haven't bought anything yet. Trying to stay as OEM as possible I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Well, the supply/return lines appear to be swapped. Not sure if there is enough slack to cross them. Any problem running fuel the opposite way through the rails (besides the FPR, obviously)? http://i.imgur.com/qp7NSPn.jpg Also, anyone know what these lil fellers are? http://i.imgur.com/zuq92r1.jpg Starting to think it might be better to stay sidefeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Fuel dampers. There to stop resonances and pulses caused by the opening and closing of the injectors. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 These are dampers. They smooth the pulsations caused by the injectors. 07-09 have them on the strut tower instead, you can see them in the diagram you posted. There is another damper in the 05-06 FPR assembly. I run 08 STI intake manifold and STI topfeed fuel rails with the stock FPR assembly - just like 08 STI does anyway. So it should be okay with 07-09 LGT rails as well. As for the hoses lengths, you can always extend them with a hose union and an extra bit of hose. Also good way is too add an adapter for fuel pressure gauge there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Talked to Bren, and he recommended that I stick with sidefeeds, but upgrade the fuel pump beyond the 65c currently installed. So I think my topfeed plans are kaput. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Sorry to bump this thread, but don't want to start a new one and get referred back here. I'm going to do the topfeed conversion. I first read here about new TGVs, regulators and surrendering your first born child, which made me start crying: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/234601-how-side-top-feed-conversion.html It looks like this can now be done with two TI kits or one kit and NSFW's instructions? Top feed fuel rail conversion http://www.titanmotorsports.com/t1sutopfefur.html Feed line kit http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/index.php/en/products/details/1366/154/injector-dynamics/id1000/subaru/t1-subaru-sti-sfc-feed-line-kit.html Those are just links for a "yep, that's right" or "no, that won't work". I'll end up getting them from cryo. With those kits I won't need a regulator unless mine dies as well? It still looks painful. Since I'll have the manifold off, I'm just going to delete the TGVs, install a hard inlet, upgrade my turbo and swap in an intake and headers while I'm at it. When deleting TGVs, do people have the shaft hole welded? For the cost of having someone weld aluminum and the time for porting and polishing, is it just as effective to get these? http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2120-jdm-sti-tgv-deletes.aspx Or NASIOC mentions brass plugs with jbweld? I get awful nervous with anything in the intake tract jbwelded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Also, I know this may be the wrong thread, but on TGV delete, would it be better to leave the divider plate in and knife edge the inlet side of the divider plate? Just looking at where the injector sits and what its spray pattern would be with or without the divider plate. http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn182/meatbawl/TGVDELETES/IMG_1100.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 You do need to plug the TGV shaft holes, otherwise you have both vacuum leaks and boost leaks. It doesn't need to be welded though. Drill + tap + JB Weld + set-screw is how mine were done. Removing the divider is better, just because it is a (small) restriction in the airway, but leaving it in won't hurt anything. I just bought pre-made housings much like the ones you linked to. I don't remember which brand, but I think they're Grimmspeed. The T1 hose kit sounds like it will replace all of the little parts that I cobbled together. Since you're doing TGVs at the same time as the injector conversion, you will be able to access everything easily, and it will be very straightforward. One of mine lines is braided steel over teflon, and those fittings are a huge pain in the ass. Looks neat, but I would rather not do that again. It turned my fingertips into hamburger for days. After I did mine, I heard about bending your own steel hard-lines... it's like brake lines, only bigger. It seems like it's mostly a muscle-car thing, but there's a guy at NASIOC that did his Impreza's fuel lines that way and it turned out fantastic. You can find write-ups and tools all over the net. If I do any more fuel plumbing in the future I really want to try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I used the T1 legacy specific fuel line kit and it was a no-brainer installation for my mechanic who had never done fuel mods on a Subaru. I used the OEM fuel pressure reg and have been good for 9,000 miles so far. OEM TGV's, ID1000's, their line kit and a DW300 fuel pump, OEM air box with K&N and I'm good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Thank you both for the replies. doccrowley, where did you get the Legacy specific kit? I searched around on T1's site and didn't find that. Do you have a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Google it: injector dynamics legacy gt fuel line kit You'll be amazed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 12, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 12, 2014 Looking to install this setup shortly. Hoping it won't be too bad since I already plan to remove the intake manifold in order to swap out TGVs and also to make installing a new inlet/turbo easier. What can I do on the "bench" pre install to speed things up? I'm thinking I can get the injectors / rails bolted to my new TGV deletes just so those are assembled and ready to go... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarer Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Google it: injector dynamics legacy gt fuel line kit You'll be amazed Called T1 today (seller of ID products) and they said that they do not make a Legacy specific fuel line kit. There is a WRX/STi kit but NOT a Legacy kit. Mitch at T1 also said that the Legacy stuff is slightly different. He only mentioned fuel line length but looking at the kit for the WRX and the stuff NSFW used, the kit uses 4 90 degree fittings on the ends of the rails and NSFW used straight fittings on 2 of the ends. Also, Mitch recommended the Radium Engineering fuel damper. Radium makes a top feed conversion rail with damper built in which is what I'm going to use. I'll report back after the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarer Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 One other question for y'all. .....Can we just use aftermarket rails/lines and top feed TGVs off a 2002 WRX? I'd rather not have the extra adapter and gasket if I can avoid it. Less chance for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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