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NSFW's ID 1000 injector swap


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IMO, it's better just to have the extra adapter and gasket. If you put it together correctly, you won't have any issues.

 

T1 sells nice stuff and are made up of great people. Tony Palo helped us with our Civic years ago. Have spent a lot of time with him when at different race tracks back in the day.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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  • 1 year later...
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Anyone have a backup on the images on this thread? Looks like Photobucket killed them all.

 

 

 

I just did the ID1050x injectors with AN lines. Here are my pics. I wish I took more. If you let me know, I can walk you through the swap. Mine was done on 05 with TGV delete at the same time.

 

With manifold off

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Fuel line assembly off with TGV

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ID1050x with side to top feed conversion kit

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I used AN fuel lines Dave at cryo recommended

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There is also injector harness kit that was completely plug and play

 

I was a bit confused with line feed in and out for this setup. I checked with Dave at cryo and it's basically fuel-in line (top line on the driver side from the tank) to the driver side rear of adapter rail, then driver side front to passenger front. Passenger rear to fuel return line on the driver return line which is the bottom of the three on the driver side (top is fuel in, middle is vacuum and bottom is fuel return).

 

Mine was much more painful it needed to be since I swapped all lines to silicone and swapped my inlet while I was in there. I wish I had phenolic spacers but timing didn't work out. It's a bitch with that inlet and all the damn lines to fit well even with the manifold off.

 

Let me know and I can identify things in the pic etc. hope this is sort of what you were looking for.

 

 

 

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Bummer. If you right click a missing picture and copy the URL, can you use it to view the pic at the pb web site?

 

Some of them work that way, some of them are still missing.

 

I'm trying to see the rail clearances and how you did your hose routing. I just bought ID1050X's and radium topfeed conversion rails, so am trying to pick out plumbing. Looking at using standard 5/16" fuel injector hose, the upper part of the OEM rails that hook to the FPR, and Earls Vaperguard fittings.

 

Between your and Shutoburner's pics, I presume you'd recommend all 90* fittings off the rails? Is there enough room to tuck everything under the intake manifold?

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Some of them work that way, some of them are still missing.

 

 

 

I'm trying to see the rail clearances and how you did your hose routing. I just bought ID1050X's and radium topfeed conversion rails, so am trying to pick out plumbing. Looking at using standard 5/16" fuel injector hose, the upper part of the OEM rails that hook to the FPR, and Earls Vaperguard fittings.

 

 

 

Between your and Shutoburner's pics, I presume you'd recommend all 90* fittings off the rails? Is there enough room to tuck everything under the intake manifold?

 

 

 

One I used was 90 degree fittings and once I removed the stock fuel lines under the manifold, there was more than enough space for the new lines.

 

 

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I used straight fittings everywhere except the rear passenger side, because the hose had to make a tight bend to get around the turbo. I used a stainless 90 degree bend there because the other end of that hose was attached to the chassis and I was worried that there might be too much stress on an aluminum fitting when the engine rocks.

 

And then a couple years later... The braided hose from that 90 got shortened, so it only extends as far as a fitting that also moves with the motor, and there's a foot or two of rubber hose from the motor to the FRP. So an aluminum 90 would probably be just fine.

 

Anyway, from the fronts of the fuel rails the hose just makes a gradual bend and runs across the front of the factory bracket in front of the alternator. From the back of the driver's side fuel rail the hose goes straight back, and then zig-zags to the firewall.

 

I'll see if I can fix some photos later, but I don't have much time right now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's been so long I've forgotten, but I think I may have simply removed the bracket you're asking about. Between the FMIC pipe and intake pipe it might be hard tell what the angle is, but I was standing in front of the passenger headlight when i took this pic. There's a tab on the bottom of the upper coolant reservoir, is that where the bracket used to be? :)

 

I kinda want to make a bracket for it now, as it seems wrong to just let it hang there. Been like that for almost a decade though.

CoolantTank.thumb.jpg.d5ee65503f018cba8fa89df922faa9d1.jpg

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BTW, I've been trying to download pics from Photobucket so I can fix this thread (and a couple others) but it's slow going. At first I thought i might buy a month of hosting just to fix everything but at this point I'm fed up.

 

Their web site mostly just alternates between painfully slow and totally broken. I get that they need money to survive, but I sure ain't inclined to give them any. Not sure how they survived as long as they did.

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It's been so long I've forgotten, but I think I may have simply removed the bracket you're asking about. Between the FMIC pipe and intake pipe it might be hard tell what the angle is, but I was standing in front of the passenger headlight when i took this pic. There's a tab on the bottom of the upper coolant reservoir, is that where the bracket used to be? :)

 

I kinda want to make a bracket for it now, as it seems wrong to just let it hang there. Been like that for almost a decade though.

 

Yep, the bracket goes from the side of the TGV housing to that tab. I ended up making one out of some thin aluminum bar. It hugs the fuel rail enough that everything clears. Not super strong, but it probably dosent need a ton of support with the top rubber bushings and hoses holding it together.

 

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