lil_z_33 Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 the bottom of the oem fuel pressure regulator was connected to the oem pulse dampener via a metal bracket with a nipple on it...how did you block that off? or it looks like in your pic of the installed aeromotive fpr that you ran the stock fpr inline with the aftermarket fpr... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 thanks for the write up, that helps alot...can you please elaborate a little more on the pulse dampener install...I do not think I know where the stock fpr is, and which one the pulse dampener is either. also, where does the vacuum line come from that connects to the fpr? I think there may be two kinds of stock FPRs, though I have no idea which years have which versions. The kind I had comes mounted on the driver's side strut tower. The fuel lines only go forward from the firewall for about a foot before they reach the FPR assembly. The assembly contains two pulse dampers (red, about the size of a quarter, but an inch thick) plus of course the regulator itself, all wrapped in a black metal shield. In this picture, you can just barely see it in the original location, on the right edge of the picture, next to the FMIC pipe and brake master cylinder: http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2114.jpg I later moved it to a bracket on my strut bar, as shown below. This might look like a mess of hoses at first, but notice the send and return lines that run between the FPR and the firewall: http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/MiscLegacy/CIMG3381.jpg One of the pulse dampers can be easily removed, so I kept it, and plumbed it into the supply line when I switched FPRs. You can see the boost pressure reference line in that picture too, at least some of it. It's red, and there's only about a half-inch visible where it attaches to the intake manifold. There's slightly more red hose visible below-and-left of the boost line, in between the manifold runners, but that's the evap line. The other type of FPR is mounted on the intake manifold, and I think it's integrated with the hard fuel lines there. If you have this kind, I can't offer any guidance. I don't have one, and haven't looked closely at it. That style might only be on Imprezas though... I'm not sure. If you're not sure what's what, just open your hood and look for something with two fuel lines going in, two going out, and a smaller rubber hose going to the intake manifold. The stock FPR assembly also an extra hose clipped to it (the evap line again) but other than the clip it's not really integrated with the FPR assembly itself. also, how did you mount your new fpr? See the picture in post #48 above. The strut bar has a white chunk of plastic hanging off it, and the FPR is bolted to that. It's the red and grey thing with the gauge on the front of it, and a boost reference hose (red) and a braided steel line (with red/blue connector) extending downward from it. I'll post a pic from another angle later tonight, that should clear up your last question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 The fuel pressure regulator no longer has a gauge on it - I sent it back and am waiting for the replacement. This pic shows the damper on the supply line, suspended next to the return line (from the FPR) by a zip-tie on either side: http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Injectors/FprAndDamper.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 let me get this straight...you are running only one of the pulse dameners? that seems like a good idea...I can not run both as one of them is connected to the stock fpr via a metal nipple with a rubber gasket built in to it, along with a metal bracket with two screws holding them together... so is it a bad idea to run just one of the dampeners??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 I'm told that the Aeromotive FPR doesn't require a damper, so running just one damper on the supply side seems pretty reasonable. I have no reason to suspect that it's causing a significant problem - I get the AFRs that the fuel table calls for, with only only slightly lean spot (around 4000 RPM and low load) which I fixed with the load compensation table. This is much better than what I got with Perrin 816s and all four of the factory fuel dampers. There are also dampers on the stock fuel rails that appear to be easy to remove, but I haven't tried that. Those could probably be plumbed in somewhere if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 awesome thanks...I will mimic your set up...thanks for all of your help with my idiocy...I really appreciate it...btw, the quick connector fittings you posted are female ends, pretty sure the you need male connectors to adapt to the stock lines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 People run with no dampers and also have no problems supposedly... don't know anything about it either way other than that anyone anywhere with a Aeromotive FPR and aftermarket fueling setup doesn't mention dampers per what I have seen at least. Have been wrong before [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I think the one dampener method should cut it...no dampener on the return shouldn't be an issue I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Injectors/PassenerRear2.jpg Do you think that this simple connection (which is straight, not 90 degrees) will fit here? http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/aei-15635_w.jpg I just wanted to get 4 of the above (like we talked about on the phone). Looking at the pics I am not sure how nicely it will fit. Also, a lot of the fuel hose I have found is rated to 50psi, which obviously isn't enough in our application. I am just scared of an underhood fire. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 IIRC, it should fit no problem...I would install the barb fittings on the rails prior to installing the tgv's/rails/injectors to the block...getting a hose on there would be alot easier then trying to tighten up an aluminum fitting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 Yes, it will work fine, that's how I had it plumbed in the beginning. I only added the 90 fitting later, when I put in the Aeromotive regulator and switched from rubber to braided steel for that segment of hose. I know exactly what you mean. Underhood fires are all I think about for several days before and after messing with fuel lines. So far so good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Was your rubber fuel hose rated at 50 psi, or higher? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted September 8, 2010 Author Share Posted September 8, 2010 Whoops, I meant to mention that... the stuff I've been using is rated 140psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Whoops, I meant to mention that... the stuff I've been using is rated 140psi. I found some stuff that is 300 psi 5/16 for $5/foot locally, and clamps are about $1 each. I got the injectors, rails conversion, -6an fittings and P&P adapters all on order, thanks! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I found some stuff that is 300 psi 5/16 for $5/foot locally, and clamps are about $1 each. I got the injectors, rails conversion, -6an fittings and P&P adapters all on order, thanks! In for pics. Got a really bad feeling about these PE850s. Not enough fuel for 400whp on E85 anyways... [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I should snap some pics of my engine bay tomorrow at the shop...don't know if he has ripped apart any of the fueling that I set up, but we shall see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 PE injectors suck. I ran my setup with no fuel dampers, then with 2. No difference either way. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Injectors/Fittings1.jpg It looks to me like the -6an > 5/16 hose barb fitting on the right has an O-ring on it. The ones I ordered do not. Do the T1 rails come with O-rings? From my reading it looks like the -an fittings rarely use O-rings? I think I am going to burn my car to the ground. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 An fittings usually seal by mashing the conical flare into a female end of the same shape. But things like rails and FPR sometimes use these straight thread fittings instead of flare fittings. Therefore o-rings are required. BTW looks like the flare fitting in the pic has two o-rings... would like to know something about why there are two instead of one, aside from the obvious. Edit: lightly mashing. Hard mashing risky. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 flare fittings shouldn't have o-rings My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 dont know why there are two o-rings either...the flat side of my 6an fitting came with one ring and that made a nice seal to the rails...the rest of the plumbing was all flared and no o-rings required... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 flare fittings shouldn't have o-rings You misread my post perhaps or my thought. A flare male seals in a flare female, and an o-ring will be useless here, of course. An ORB male fitting will not seal in a female flare fitting. But a male flare fitting should be able to seal in a female ORB fitting IF you put an o-ring on the male flare fitting. NSFW has done this already, and it males total sense since there is no -6 ORB male to 5/16" barb fitting. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Exactly. From the first post: On the backs of the rails, Aeroquip 6AN-to-5/16 barb fittings - these don't include o-rings, but o-rings are required to get a good seal against the rails, so I bought some buna-N rings at an auto parts shop. And when I got home, I noticed that the rings I bought were a bit thin, so I doubled them up. I'll go back and fix that later, but by the time I noticed, it was too late... Sorry for the confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 So if I use those -6an fittings, and these O-rings I will be good to go: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-176006ERL/ Just -6an O-rings, only one per fitting? I can't understand why I might need two. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Yes, and I'm pretty sure those are the exact same o-rings that I used to replace the ones I bought the first time. I'll double-check... EDIT: Yes, same part number. And yes, just one per fitting. I only doubled up in the beginning because the first set was too thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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