brooklyngenius Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 yeah this has been done by several people I know including D1 drifter Stew Leask's useless signature line where i cant mention my sponsors "First Bagged BL5!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05lgt5spd Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Someone who puts a GM engine into a Japanese (or European) car? Like a small block in a 68 toyota fj40? I'd have to say the suby is great, but nothing beats the sound/feeling of a healthy V8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Anyone yet that has gasoline converted a large diesel engine from a truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 You're kidding, right? Of course, I am.:lol:I hate VW's like it's my job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Of course it will fit, there are hundreds of ls1 240sx. I know a couple and have driven them and its great. 2800lbs with 400whp is always fun. As for the rod bolts they are a weak point but i know many many people runnign cammed ls1s with stock bottom ends for many miles. I even have friends with cammed ls1s with over 130kmiles on them. And my ls1 put down 427whp for almost 30k miles without a problem when i sold it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Anyone yet that has gasoline converted a large diesel engine from a truck? There are several common swaps actually. One common one is to swap a Powerstroke or Cummins diesel into a Ford Bronco. Another common swap with tons of potential is swapping a 4 cylinder Cummins 3.9L 4BT engine into the Ford Ranger. Those things make crazy torque, since they are basically just the Cummins 5.9L 6BT with the center two cylinders chopped out. As for the rod bolts they are a weak point but i know many many people runnign cammed ls1s with stock bottom ends for many miles. And I'm sure the rod bolts will last unless you run a full race cam and need to run the motor at high revs to get power out of it. If you stay within the stock powerband the stock bolts shouldn't pose an issue. It's like the Ford 300 I6 (Which I am selling right now BTW). If you modify the crap out of them with a wild cam they will throw stock rods like nobody's business, but if you stay under 4 or 5K RPM with a modest cam and a Clifford intake the bottom end will last for decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 There are several common swaps actually. One common one is to swap a Powerstroke or Cummins diesel into a Ford Bronco. Another common swap with tons of potential is swapping a 4 cylinder Cummins 3.9L 4BT engine into the Ford Ranger. Those things make crazy torque, since they are basically just the Cummins 5.9L 6BT with the center two cylinders chopped out. And I'm sure the rod bolts will last unless you run a full race cam and need to run the motor at high revs to get power out of it. If you stay within the stock powerband the stock bolts shouldn't pose an issue. It's like the Ford 300 I6 (Which I am selling right now BTW). If you modify the crap out of them with a wild cam they will throw stock rods like nobody's business, but if you stay under 4 or 5K RPM with a modest cam and a Clifford intake the bottom end will last for decades. Stock redline is 6150rpms, stock pushrods bend easy after that. Most streetable cams will give you good power past that point, upgrade the valve spings, pushrods, oil pump, timing chain and cam and it should handle 7krpms easy, i had my redline after the camswap set at 6900rpms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Pushrods don't work at all - everyone knows this. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtgirl06 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Sub..cool project. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Stock redline is 6150rpms, stock pushrods bend easy after that. Most streetable cams will give you good power past that point, upgrade the valve spings, pushrods, oil pump, timing chain and cam and it should handle 7krpms easy, i had my redline after the camswap set at 6900rpms. When I said 4-5K RPM's I was talking about the Ford 300 I6. The ones I've worked on were carb'd with governors that top out at about 5,500, but the engine sounds scary when it spins that fast. It really doesn't like it one bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Of course it will fit, there are hundreds of ls1 240sx. I know a couple and have driven them and its great. 2800lbs with 400whp is always fun. As for the rod bolts they are a weak point but i know many many people runnign cammed ls1s with stock bottom ends for many miles. I even have friends with cammed ls1s with over 130kmiles on them. And my ls1 put down 427whp for almost 30k miles without a problem when i sold it. lol, the title is sarcastic but ya, it should be nice, I'm thinking i can shave it to under 2500lbs easily when its all said and done. The thing is I'm racing this, so the motor is gonna have it hard, above 4.5k all day with a more aggressive cam. I usually drive with mechanical sympathy, but with this project I'm rolling with race it, break it, fix it. It will get built, and if it fails, well, it might be time to go the the ls1 block and build the bottom end up from a bare block. It really just depends on how much i want my wallet to hurt. There are still other wear and tear items, brake pads, tires, fluids and other stuff comes to mind, and I gotta pay entrance fees. So the cost has gotta stay on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 When I said 4-5K RPM's I was talking about the Ford 300 I6. The ones I've worked on were carb'd with governors that top out at about 5,500, but the engine sounds scary when it spins that fast. It really doesn't like it one bit. I kew you were refering to it, i was just saying that the engine like that should be able to handle almost 1k more rpms and be just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 lol, the title is sarcastic but ya, it should be nice, I'm thinking i can shave it to under 2500lbs easily when its all said and done. The thing is I'm racing this, so the motor is gonna have it hard, above 4.5k all day with a more aggressive cam. I usually drive with mechanical sympathy, but with this project I'm rolling with race it, break it, fix it. It will get built, and if it fails, well, it might be time to go the the ls1 block and build the bottom end up from a bare block. It really just depends on how much i want my wallet to hurt. There are still other wear and tear items, brake pads, tires, fluids and other stuff comes to mind, and I gotta pay entrance fees. So the cost has gotta stay on a budget. If you are gonna start from the ground up do alot of research, the ls1 block is outdated compared to the ls6,ls2,ls3,ls7. Iron blocks are stronger but any gm ls series aluminum block has been proven to atleast 1khp by other builders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 The 300 wasn't designed to be run above 5,000 RPM. Mine stops accellerating at about 5,500 with the governor on the carb. It gets peak torque between 1,500 and 2K and power drops significantly past 4K RPM. The one I own never liked to run past 4K RPM, so I never pushed it. After 4K RPM you would be better off upshifting if you wanted to accelerate faster, keeping the engine in its powerband. When I was an active member of the FordSix forum, it was discussed in detail on several occassions how the 300 (4.9L) liked to throw stock conrods after sustained running at 5K RPM's or more. They were built for heavy duty, low end torque, which they were great for. They produced about the same torque as the 302, but at lower RPM's. They were, and still are, used in some gas powered UPS and FedEx trucks, airline baggage carriers, and generators running on either gasoline or propane. The baggage carriers, FedEx trucks, and generator powerplants had stronger cranks and conrods, with high flow fuel pumps to sustain 3-4K RPM's constantly. The reason for the extra low end torque, low redline, and tendency to throw rods is due to the long stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 If someone put a MOPAR 440 six pack under the hood of an LGT you'd end up sitting in the backseat, with the transmission in the passenger cabin I know you were joking, I was just going with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 If you are gonna start from the ground up do alot of research, the ls1 block is outdated compared to the ls6,ls2,ls3,ls7. Iron blocks are stronger but any gm ls series aluminum block has been proven to atleast 1khp by other builders. I thought the LS1 block became weak above 600HP and for 1000+, an LSX block was suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I thought the LS1 block became weak above 600HP and for 1000+, an LSX block was suggested. The ls1 block has been taken far past 600hp, i know of a few 346-383ci ls1s with FI that put down 800-1000whp. And even a ls1 383 N/A stroker can put down 500-550whp aka 600-650ish crank and alot of guys run 200-300 shots of spray on top of that just fine. The lsx block should be able to take 2,000+hp but it isn't needed if your just looking to run anything under 1000. The only problem i see with a 600+wtrq 240sx is the frame, its gonna twist once trq starts getting that high. Alot of guys are scared to use aluminium blocks past a certain hp just because iron is stronger, but there are custom aluminium blocks out there built to handle 2,000hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 The 300 wasn't designed to be run above 5,000 RPM. Mine stops accellerating at about 5,500 with the governor on the carb. It gets peak torque between 1,500 and 2K and power drops significantly past 4K RPM. The one I own never liked to run past 4K RPM, so I never pushed it. After 4K RPM you would be better off upshifting if you wanted to accelerate faster, keeping the engine in its powerband. When I was an active member of the FordSix forum, it was discussed in detail on several occassions how the 300 (4.9L) liked to throw stock conrods after sustained running at 5K RPM's or more. They were built for heavy duty, low end torque, which they were great for. They produced about the same torque as the 302, but at lower RPM's. They were, and still are, used in some gas powered UPS and FedEx trucks, airline baggage carriers, and generators running on either gasoline or propane. The baggage carriers, FedEx trucks, and generator powerplants had stronger cranks and conrods, with high flow fuel pumps to sustain 3-4K RPM's constantly. The reason for the extra low end torque, low redline, and tendency to throw rods is due to the long stroke. Lol im not expaining it to you correctly, this whole time I have been refering to lsx engines not diesel engine you are. When I said an engine like that I meant the ls1 can handle 1kmore rpms with a couple valve train upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 lol, the title is sarcastic but ya, it should be nice, I'm thinking i can shave it to under 2500lbs easily when its all said and done. The thing is I'm racing this, so the motor is gonna have it hard, above 4.5k all day with a more aggressive cam. I usually drive with mechanical sympathy, but with this project I'm rolling with race it, break it, fix it. It will get built, and if it fails, well, it might be time to go the the ls1 block and build the bottom end up from a bare block. It really just depends on how much i want my wallet to hurt. There are still other wear and tear items, brake pads, tires, fluids and other stuff comes to mind, and I gotta pay entrance fees. So the cost has gotta stay on a budget. What are you building the car for? Drag? Courses? If its drag then you would wanna stick with the auto for faster times. But if you want stick then just go with stick from the get go, its not any harder to install really. Unless the 240sx you have was auto but then again the clutch system would be replaced if you were to swap a t-56 into a manual 240 anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Lol im not expaining it to you correctly, this whole time I have been refering to lsx engines not diesel engine you are. When I said an engine like that I meant the ls1 can handle 1kmore rpms with a couple valve train upgrades. I misunderstood, but the Ford 300 I6 is a gas motor. I have owned a Cummins I6 diesel, which is what you're probably talking about. That redlines at only 2,800 though. I sort of have a "Thing" for straight 6 engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 What are you building the car for? Drag? Courses? If its drag then you would wanna stick with the auto for faster times. But if you want stick then just go with stick from the get go, its not any harder to install really. Unless the 240sx you have was auto but then again the clutch system would be replaced if you were to swap a t-56 into a manual 240 anyway. autox/road course duty the t56 is well over $1k more than the auto, so its not an option right now for my budget atm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 autoxing an auto Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05GT Guru Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 autox/road course duty the t56 is well over $1k more than the auto, so its not an option right now for my budget atm I forgot you already had an engine, when you buy a ls1 with a tranny attached its usually the same price whether it has the auto or manual but if you buy them seperate thats a different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwannaSportSedan Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Why not just get a cheap T5 or something in the mean time. Swapping a T5 for a T56 later would be easier than converting from an automatic. That way the clutch pedal box, the shifter, the clutch itself and flywheel, will already be in place. You have to change all that stuff, going from Auto to Manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 autoxing an auto LOL just leave it in 2nd gear! 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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