will this fit?

[AWDxBOOST]

The first day i picked up the s13

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/181528_863565775356_25513918_43714554_263315_n.jpg

 

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I got a 5.3L LM7 here with ls1 intake manifold and fuel rails from an 06 Tahoe with under 20k miles that i got for dirt cheap. Lets just say i made all my money back selling the extra heads i got with it.

 

I'm probably going to go with a 4l60e auto for now just to get it running and troubleshoot any particular issues that may arise. T56 is coming in later down the line, along with an AL block most likely to trim off the weight. But that's way in the future once the car has taken shape

 

The overall concept i have is for a straight track car for time trials, autox duty and general playing around. Right now its stripped, waiting for me to stop being lazy and sand it, seam weld it and cage it

 

I'll keep you updated if you're interested as it comes along now that it should start warming up

 

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs293.ash1/22049_718845266416_25513918_39986187_3314326_n.jpg

 

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Well here's my little project I've been playing around with, and now its time to get serious with it. Budget v8 240sx, lol. I don't plan on spending more than 2k on the drivetrain.

 

 

**2/24/11**

Been a while since i updated...been busy with work but have slowly been picking away at this and that. Went ahead and picked up a t56 w/ ls7 cluch/flywheel for a good deal to back it up. There was no way i could forgive myself if i stuck an auto in it at first, lol

 

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184372_863559502926_25513918_43714507_1234931_n.jpg

cleaned up the engine bay and sprayed the first coat down of primer

 

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185920_863559532866_25513918_43714509_6025504_n.jpg

Test fit the compression fittings to run -6 line all the way back

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/180096_863559572786_25513918_43714510_2090482_n.jpg

Pounded in the pilot bearing...hope i didnt botch it :/....lol

 

**3/22/11**

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finally did a test fit....everything seems good so far

 

okay so when i tried to turn the engine over by hand, it would turn 90* then stop....i didnt force it, but it def wouldnt turn. I took it apart and heres what i have found

 

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/221765_962204362836_25513918_44129697_3574489_n.jpg

 

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/215641_962204692176_25513918_44129702_2901638_n.jpg

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208109_962204851856_25513918_44129704_7001849_n.jpg

 

total f'd....the whole combustion chamber has sat for too long, the valves are rusted and the cylinder wall has light rust. The block itself is fine, ill punch it out to 5.7 and just go ahead and drop the bomb on the motor, forged internals, new cam, bearings, the works

 

the crank seems fine, as does the cam and chain assembly, but imma go with an ls6 timing chain setup and have a coworker of mine build the motor for around $2500 total. He recently did another lsx build that was for FI that made crazy numbers, hes really good. He thinks with a good tune i can hit around 450-500whp range for the price he has in mind.

 

I thought about getting a new block, like a LQ 6.0L, but they are still kinda pricey if you to rebuild it in the first place. Either way, it'll be way more motor than the car needs

 

**5/29/11**

 

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just picked these up, 3way adjustable stances....car is getting caged soon and the motor is getting rebuilt to around 450 to 500 hp with cam.

[Platinum_Racing]

Subscribed!!!!!

 

You can make some serious horsepower with an LS1 motor. Just switching to aluminum 1.6 ratio roller rockers and tighter valve springs can net you about 10-15 horses. Nevermind the additional aftermarket support for cams, intakes, headers, ignition, and heads out there.

 

EDIT: I just realized this is a 5.3 with an LS1 manifold. Either way, that motor came with almost 300 horses from the factory, and if you want to can bore the block and put in the 5.7L crank, conrods, and pistons and have yourself a GM 5.7 motor. Do that with a cam, heads, ignition, exhaust, valvetrain (As stated above) and you could probably push 550-650 horses. If you leave the block alone and just do the heads, intake, valvetrain, ignition and exhaust you can push 400-500 horses on stock internals and pump gas. If I were you I would ditch the fuel injection and do either a single plane 4 bbl low rise intake manifold with a Holley double pumper, or a dual plane 4 bbl high rise intake manifold with a Holley double pumper depending on where you want to get your HP and torque.

[pillboy]

Let me introduce rao jr.

[Penguin]

Do you own a sledgehammer, an arc welder, a sawzall, and a die grinder? If the answer is yes, then it will fit one way or another.

[Platinum_Racing]

Of course it will fit, time and money will make anything fit. And it will be fast, very fast, faster than a Ford 5.0 in a Miata, and those things pull the slalom at like 70 something MPH with a bone stock 5.0.

 

This thing will be a monster.

[Platinum_Racing]

Let me introduce rao jr.

 

And who is rao jr?

[ClimberDHexMods]

Someone who puts a GM engine into a Japanese (or European) car?

[Penguin]

No someone on this forum who goes by rao, who for quite awhile had a 1997 or so BMW M3 with a hot (think 600hp) LS2 swapped in it.

[Platinum_Racing]

I know who rao is, but I didn't know he had an LS2 powered Bimmer. That's awesome.

[AWDxBOOST]

Do you own a sledgehammer, an arc welder, a sawzall, and a die grinder? If the answer is yes, then it will fit one way or another.

 

yes, lol

 

i love attacking cars with v8s and welders

 

platinum: yea its great, the 5.3 is just a debored 5.7. If i decide to go aluminum 5.7 block later, it will be easy because every part is interchangeable, lol

 

basically with boltons and the ls1 intake manifold, this motor should make about 10-20hp less than a 5.7 with boltons, but still have about the same tq. Power goals to start are around a conservative 400whp with a cam, custom exhaust of course, intake and tune. I know the weak spot on the motors for racing apps are the rod bolts; they tend to fail with sustained high revs. I think i will just let it pop once to see just how strong it is, then go in with all forged internals and bump the compressions if anything goes to hell.

[AWDxBOOST]

No someone on this forum who goes by rao, who for quite awhile had a 1997 or so BMW M3 with a hot (think 600hp) LS2 swapped in it.

 

i remember this, i think he had an fc rx7 convertible with an ls1 as well, i wanted to get my dad to buy it, lol

[pillboy]

Platinum needs to get out less and spend more time on this forum.

[John M]

I forgot about using a 5.3 powertrain. My brother has an 89 Supra that's been parked for 10 years due to terminal rod knock. The interior is showroom. I've been suggesting a LS1/2 swap but didn't consider the much-cheaper option of a 5.3 from a truck.

 

He already had a 94 Supra TT that was singled so there's no point in doing a 2JZ swap on this one. A v8 would be interesting.

[Penguin]

I forgot about using a 5.3 powertrain. My brother has an 89 Supra that's been parked for 10 years due to terminal rod knock. The interior is showroom. I've been suggesting a LS1/2 swap but didn't consider the much-cheaper option of a 5.3 from a truck.

 

He already had a 94 Supra TT that was singled so there's no point in doing a 2JZ swap on this one. A v8 would be interesting.

 

On the plus side for those cast iron blocks from the trucks, if you want to boost them the blocks themselves are really really stout.

[rao]

That swap is very well documented. Enjoy

 

BTW, I had a 95 M3 with a 6.6 liter LS2 in it and I swapped all of the drivetrain and suspension parts to a 92 4 door 325i.

 

I have also done several other engine swaps, but my real dream is to some day own a Spec B

[Merc6]

Subscribed as well.

[Platinum_Racing]

yes, lol

 

i love attacking cars with v8s and welders

 

platinum: yea its great, the 5.3 is just a debored 5.7. If i decide to go aluminum 5.7 block later, it will be easy because every part is interchangeable, lol

 

basically with boltons and the ls1 intake manifold, this motor should make about 10-20hp less than a 5.7 with boltons, but still have about the same tq. Power goals to start are around a conservative 400whp with a cam, custom exhaust of course, intake and tune. I know the weak spot on the motors for racing apps are the rod bolts; they tend to fail with sustained high revs. I think i will just let it pop once to see just how strong it is, then go in with all forged internals and bump the compressions if anything goes to hell.

 

The 5.7 has the same size bore, but a longer stroke than the 5.3, so the crank and conrods are going to be different. And as far as letting a rod go... I wouldn't I've seen rod bolts break on several occassions and the result is always the same. The rod either comes out the side of the block, or smashes around inside the motor until it comes out the oilpan. Either way, the block is going to be junk. One motor I saw it happen is was a 1.5L SOHC Hyundai motor, and the other a Chevy 454 bored out to 468 cubes pushing 830 horses with mechanical fuel injection on a Big Block Supermodifed. I used to be a part of their team, and when that motor popped it was like watching someone put $30K into a paper shredder. just get some ARP rod bolts and bottom end hardware from the getgo and forget about it. The price is well worth the payoff in terms of durability.

[Bolksey85]

I got to see firsthand a punched 427 with a 454 crank let go at about 6800 on a dyno. I'll never forget that sight as long as I live. We think it was simply cheap parts for that RPM. It was a 13.5:1 motor with a GM Performance Parts rotating ass'y. Good parts but not up to 630HP, apparently. Looked like a rod stretched, one piston kissed the head and it locked up until a con rod came though the oil pan. Blew apart lifters, all rotating parts became paper weights, and the heads were toasted. The only thing left that was good was the intake manifold and the Dominator which was the school's property where the testing was done.

[AWDxBOOST]

The 5.7 has the same size bore, but a longer stroke than the 5.3, so the crank and conrods are going to be different. And as far as letting a rod go... I wouldn't I've seen rod bolts break on several occassions and the result is always the same. The rod either comes out the side of the block, or smashes around inside the motor until it comes out the oilpan. Either way, the block is going to be junk. One motor I saw it happen is was a 1.5L SOHC Hyundai motor, and the other a Chevy 454 bored out to 468 cubes pushing 830 horses with mechanical fuel injection on a Big Block Supermodifed. I used to be a part of their team, and when that motor popped it was like watching someone put $30K into a paper shredder. just get some ARP rod bolts and bottom end hardware from the getgo and forget about it. The price is well worth the payoff in terms of durability.

 

 

the failures ive seem that are common aren't that disastrous, but more along the lines of stretched bolts that lead to bearing failures. But either way ARP is definately the only hardware i like to run in builds ive done. Never had any issues with anything from them.

 

The stroke is the same on the ls1 (im not sure about the older ones, i think the stroke is longer on the old 350s) vs lm7 at 3.622 in, the bore is whats different with the lm7 at 3.77in vs 3.89

[rao]

These are all good points - everybody knows that small block Chevys are very unreliable

[ClimberDHexMods]

So... has anyone made a dirty joke about the thread title yet?

[Boostin1657615274]

Thatswhatshesaid

[Bolksey85]

These are all good points - everybody knows that small block Chevys are very unreliable

Yeah, why swap an underpowered LS motor where you can put a stump pulling and reliable 1.8T VW motor?

[gennarall]

i have a spec B from japan and it feels like their is a chevy V8 under the bonnet i have embarresed many V8's

[Platinum_Racing]

The stroke is the same on the ls1 (im not sure about the older ones, i think the stroke is longer on the old 350s) vs lm7 at 3.622 in, the bore is whats different with the lm7 at 3.77in vs 3.89

 

My bad...

 

Yeah, why swap an underpowered LS motor where you can put a stump pulling and reliable 1.8T VW motor?

 

You're kidding, right?

 

i have a spec B from japan and it feels like their is a chevy V8 under the bonnet i have embarresed many V8's

 

You've never driven a high horsepower built up V8 motor have you? If you're running anything other than a full race cam then the torque is just awesome straight from idle. If you're running a full race cam then there's no such thing as idle, just straight up horsepower.....

 

If someone put a MOPAR 440 six pack under the hood of an LGT with an AWD drivetrain, you better get out of the way or you're gonna get an @$$full of 440 six pack on the straightaway.

 

 

I hate to say this being a Subaru lover, but if there was a decently built Chevy V8 under the hood of your Spec B, you'd know it, and you wouldn't even need a turbo.

I am all for Subaru boxer motors through and through, but when comparing a high tech Jap design to a decades old hillbilly pushrod V8 design, there's just no replacement for displacement.