lossol Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 So when are you going to start your beta test run for the 2010-11? I gotta get my hands on a 10-11 vent, so probably with the next few months. I'm not sure if it will fit in the center console vent, so it will probably have to be the drivers side vent again. Out of curiosity...Is anyone actually using the parking lights sense line? Or is everyone pretty much using ambient light detector? VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I have it hooked up but using ambient Forgot to mention, love the plug on the harness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted April 4, 2011 I don't even have mine hooked up. I was too lazy, and ambient actually works pretty well. I received the updated display with the oil pressure averaging revision, but haven't had a chance to install it yet. I'll let you know when I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I haven't installed my temperature sensor yet. Been too lazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 10, 2011 I Donated Share Posted April 10, 2011 Sorry for the delayed post. I installed the updated display earlier this past week. My impression is that at medium update rate, the jumpiness is roughly equivalent to what it was at slow update rate before, and at slow update rate, there is no longer any jumpiness whatsoever. I really cannot say enough good things about the gauge as a whole, both for boost and oil pressure. It's the best option out there for 05-09 LGTs/OBXTs IMO. Might be my favorite mod... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Is there any way of increasing the refresh rate of the temperature sensor aux input? It only updates every few seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Sorry for the delayed post. I installed the updated display earlier this past week. My impression is that at medium update rate, the jumpiness is roughly equivalent to what it was at slow update rate before, and at slow update rate, there is no longer any jumpiness whatsoever. Perfect! Thanks for getting back to us on that update rate. Glad you are liking the gauge. Is there any way of increasing the refresh rate of the temperature sensor aux input? It only updates every few seconds. No. It is fixed for the temp sensor. The temp sensor is actually updating every few seconds or when the variation exceeds a specified minimum increment of change. The idea is to add some hysteresis and stability to the readout. You will also notice that if you encounter large temp change fast, it will keep up, however the thermal response of the temp sensor is somewhat slow due to the thermal resistance of the temp sensor encapsulation. Hope that helps! VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tailgatewagon Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 just ordered mine:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 My temperature readout went funny yesterday. It's reading 125 degrees C but fluctuates like it's flashing between working (35 degrees) and faulty. On another note - how heat resistant is the wiring and sensor? I'd like to relocate it to wedge in between intercooler fins to get some more realistic and usable temp feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 tangcla, A couple of thoughts on possibilities: It could be related to a loose connection, including at the extender, most likely.The afr line could be touching another line with voltage on it somehow, this would cause the sensor to rail. It could be a software bug for Celsius conversion? I dont think so. Is it doing this jump while driving or idle? The ambient aux temp sensor is good to 125 C the material it's encapsulated in is rated to 105 C. (221F) VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) tangcla, A couple of thoughts on possibilities: It could be related to a loose connection, including at the extender, most likely.The afr line could be touching another line with voltage on it somehow, this would cause the sensor to rail. It could be a software bug for Celsius conversion? I dont think so. Is it doing this jump while driving or idle? The ambient aux temp sensor is good to 125 C the material it's encapsulated in is rated to 105 C. (221F) It's usually when it's idle. Works fine most of the time, I've sealed it off. Would the wiring be able to take more heat if I shrinkwrapped the wire? Edited April 15, 2011 by tangcla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Maybe, however the top end of the sensor will always be 125. I believe they give a rating to the sensor encapsulation of 105 due to the heat activate adhesive. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Andy, how hard would it be to change the LEDs around the pivot point to white? I would like to do that to mine, is the pcb easily accessible to de solder them? Also what voltage do the red LEDs consume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 IF you look at this post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2826293&postcount=142 You will see the board stack up. To change that LED you would need to remove the overlay and de-solder the interface board from the main board. I dont think you will be able to swap that led without separating the board stack. The red led datasheet is at: http://catalog.osram-os.com/media/_en/Graphics/00042116_0.pdf The white led datasheet is at: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/Lite-On-LTW-170TK.pdf VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Hmm, ok. Without asking you to divulge too much information, is it possible to de-solder the interface board easily without damage? (Of course, I don't even want to think about the LCD and the rest of it just yet... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 You don't have to de-solder the oled to seperate the boards, they will fold out once the board is de-soldered. There are a few points to de-solder, however if you have some soder wick it shouldn't be too hard. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tailgatewagon Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 looks like people are having problems with the prosport oil pressure sender as per http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=32993376 just wondering if any others are will work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I have had two prosport oil pressure senders crap out on me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2011 Mine has been fine so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tailgatewagon Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 bump for info as to prosport is the only one that will work:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadleave Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Hey Installed this tonight..... It all went smoothly except for not knowing that fuse tap requires an additional fuse. 4 hours and many scary CEL later, it all works now. One thing I have noticed, I ran the boost gauge and ran romraider and measured relative manifold pressure and noticed a about 2~3 psi difference for boost. Goost gauge peaked at 17.4 psi, while romraider only showed 15.x psi. Is there a calibration I overlooked or am I missing something ? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Assuming you have hooked up power correctly, calibration is completed each and every time at power up of the IG2 power and the gauge samples ATM before the engine cranks. The VBG1 is also good at catching transients of boost, I'm not sure what the sampling rate of romraider is but could be a part of the discrepancies. Although 17.4 sound high for stock. bump for info as to prosport is the only one that will work At this point in time, yeah, prosport is the only option for oil pressure. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimblaz Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Im having a few discrepancies as well the VBG shows ~.6 to .8 lower then my accessport. I never read as high as max boost either. :-/ I ziptied all the lines and still off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted June 23, 2011 I Donated Share Posted June 23, 2011 lossol, I'm having some problems with burn-in. Idea -- you said the auto-reverse burn-in reducer feature was too distracting, but could you put a "reverse colors" option in the menus? That way I could toggle that option every couple of months in order to reduce burn-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Im having a few discrepancies as well the VBG shows ~.6 to .8 lower then my accessport. I never read as high as max boost either. :-/ I ziptied all the lines and still off. Every gauge shipped is pre-tested with a digital manometer to an accuracy of +/- 0.25 PSI (up to 30 PSI) I'm not sure what the accuracys are of the access port or where the senor is. That may matter, the other thing I don't know is how the access port determines ATM pressure. The VBG1 samples ATM pressure at startup everytime. lossol, I'm having some problems with burn-in. Idea -- you said the auto-reverse burn-in reducer feature was too distracting, but could you put a "reverse colors" option in the menus? That way I could toggle that option every couple of months in order to reduce burn-in. Burn-in on oleds is a pain. In version 1.04 I introduced a screen saver timeout option, are you running that version? do you have that enabled? I have found that to work very well at reducing burn-in. Actually a "reverse colors" options is what I experimented with. Still due to the formatting of the text being close to the black boarders when it was reversed, it looked terrible. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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