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He's taking it off to be under the $500 limit I think. :iam:

 

 

ANNNNNNNNNNNNNNND............. HOLY SHIT GUYS! The motherload!!!!!!!!!

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1460416441.html

 

GREAT FIND THERE, LegGTLT!!!! 2 for the price of one. We have a backup car. Which other teams can boast that??? Yes, I'd like 2 slices of LeMons for my Perrier!!! And please pass the Grey Poupon! :D

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I have enough drama for now.....
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Can we tune the Escort to give moderate (sustainable) boost, so we can get some power from the turbo and still last 14 hours? Is it fuel-injected, or does it use a carb?

 

It is FI. We can tune it but it would take either a FMU and only run it 5-6 PSI or megasquirt it and run 12+ PSI.

 

The FMU would be the cheapest route and we could even do it w/o an IC if we can't find one at the junk yard. (The FMIC that is on there won't help our $500 limit, lol)

Jump on it, Let's do it, Ride it, My Pony...

 

EL4NFZT7

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It is FI. We can tune it but it would take either a FMU and only run it 5-6 PSI or megasquirt it and run 12+ PSI.

 

The FMU would be the cheapest route and we could even do it w/o an IC if we can't find one at the junk yard. (The FMIC that is on there won't help our $500 limit, lol)

 

We could bypass this and you could sell it to one of us for $1...then spend the remaining $499 on more mods!

Make it idiot-proof and someone will make a better idiot.

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I got pics! :dm: :dm: :dm: :dm: Now to find out what "running gear issues" are. :lol:

 

Man these could be fun if we all put a few weekends in here and there. Notice the SPT sticker on the 2nd one! :lol:

HPIM0376.JPG.d1fa8100932dd606d914ff2f1bc45642.JPG

HPIM0377.JPG.b84b75493da09aba7370d5f5d71ceec3.JPG

HPIM0378.JPG.72d0d79667362600d496c8f5b316b173.JPG

HPIM0379.JPG.6bb5062554c28a39662664559588c45f.JPG

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Wow, and he replied right away too:

 

"at this point neither car is in shape for a trip like that. one could swap the parts over, but it would involve swapping the differetial and 3 corners. one has a much stronger motor but its the one with the worse body. it also has brand new exhaust. the weaker motor one has a/c a nicer body and a brand new clutch and the 4x4 engage mechanism works well. these cars are magical, easy to wrench, economical and fun. heres some pics. sorry, both cars are stuffed in my garage right now."

 

Thoughts on what he means here? :iam:

Please PM joeleodee For All Site Questions. He is the acting Admin and can resolve anything related to LegacyGT.com
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Annnddd I just found 2 more Subarus, not both AWD but you gotta see the 2nd one. We could have the bill of sale be written for $500. :hide:

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/1460018611.html

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/1458387076.html

Please PM joeleodee For All Site Questions. He is the acting Admin and can resolve anything related to LegacyGT.com
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GREAT FIND THERE, LegGTLT!!!! 2 for the price of one. We have a backup car. Which other teams can boast that??? Yes, I'd like 2 slices of LeMons for my Perrier!!! And please pass the Grey Poupon! :D

 

Let's buy both, cut them in half, weld the front ends together, and hit the track with all wheel drive, all wheel steering, and double the horsepower.

 

I am only half joking.

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What I am trying to say is we need to test the car's durability on a track or simply some 'spirited' driving before the event.

 

I agree. Being confident in our ability to do a long freeway drive is a necessary but not sufficient condition for racing.

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I still say that the Escort is the car we should be going with. I like the idea of doing a Subaru, but I like better the devil we know than the devil we don't know. Since the devil is always in the details, known details are easier to de-devil than the unknown details.

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

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For example; Autopower makes an off the shelf roll-cage for the Escort, but not for any Subaru beyond the Impreza and the WRX.

 

Parts and safety equipment will be easier to find, cheaper to buy, better tested and more application specific for a Ford Escort than nearly any Subaru more than 10 years old.

 

I know that I can go to my local NAPA and buy brake pads, rotors and lines for a mid-eighties Escort with minimal wait, and drama. I also know that I can't do that with any of the Subaru cars that people have posted yet.

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

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Not only does the car have to be able to run for 24 hours, but it has to be safe. Most cars we find for less than $500 aren't going to come with safety equipment, or if they do...um yeah, using them might be a very bad idea.

 

SAFETY INSPECTION

INTERIOR

• Roll Cage: Design, Materials, Mounting, Hardware, Padding per Rule 3.2

• Roll Cage: Construction; professionally welded and/or bolt-in

• Seat: Installation; lateral protection; single-piece height to CL of helmet per Rule 3.3

• Seat and Roll Cage: Top of (all) driver's helmets does not exceed CL of main hoop

• Seatbelts: 5-, 6- or 7-point; valid date of mfr.; installation, mounting points and hardware

• Steering: Steering wheel lock removed/disabled

• Airbag(s): Removed

• Fuel, Oil, Coolant Line(s): Restrictions in driver compartment p er Rule 3.22

• Mirror(s): Per Rule 3.18

• Extinguisher: type; metal quick-release mount; fully charged; accessible to driver

ENGINE COMPARTMENT & TRUNK

• Fuel and/or Oil Leaks: None allowed

• Battery: Properly mounted; positive terminal covered

• Battery Kill Switch: P ositive terminal covered

• Cooling System: No glycol or other additives in coolant; working catch tank

• Fuel Tank or Fuel Cell: In OE or safer location; correct caps, lines, fittings, vents, etc.

• Fuel Cell: SFI approved

• Front and Rear Bulkheads: No holes or gaps

• General Compartment Organization: No loose w iring, hoses, etc.; all items secured

EXTERIOR

• Head, Fog, Side, and Tail Lights: Removed or fully taped (Supplemental Rules excepted)

• Tires: DOT street legal; 190 treadwear or higher

• Sunroofs, T-Tops, Convertibles: Closed, netted or entire team must show arm-restraints

• Window Nets: Installation; SFI-tag; ease of removal

• General Exterior Condition: No loose panels, decorations, etc.

UNDER THE CAR (car raised and supported by two (2) jackstands)

• Exhaust System: Exits past driver but not at the fuel tank; muffler; min. 2X hangars

• Roll Cage / Seat / Harness: Mounting and backing plates and hardware

• General Underbody: No rust in critical places; no leaksor other obvious issues

WITH ENGINE RUNNING

• Engine Started w/Hood Open: No fuel leakage; no oil leakage or smoke; no coolant leakage

• Exhaust Noise: Street-legal or quieter (max 92dB @ 50 feet @ WOT)

• Kill Switch: Clearly marked; easily accessible; functional per Rule 3.26

• Brake Light(s): Working and easily visible

• Driver Egress: Reasonable egress for emergency conditions

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

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Making any car that costs less than 500 bones pass that inspection list is going to be difficult and costly enough as is. Adding in the further complications of performing massive work to a car that none of us is intimately familiar with, just to get it running, is something that a bunch of armatures, noobies, and shadetree mechanics shouldn't attempt on a first outing. It's even less logical than doing this in the very first place. This being said, I'm still in. Just know that no matter what this will not be easy.

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

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The $500 budget cap does not include safety gear. Safety gear is pretty broadly defined, it even includes fuel lines if I recall correctly. So we can buy a $500 motor and shell, spend $1000 on cage/seat/harness/brakes/etc, and still be kosher. I think brake parts are subject to the "2x OEM" rule, meaning we can spend $30 on something if the OEM equivalent lists for $15.
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Beyond the purchase of the car and what ever it takes to get it running these are the safety items that I can see we will need to buy for the car, not including install.

 

Roll Cage

Roll Cage padding

Roll Cage mounting hardware

Seat

Seat belt (5-point minimum)

Seat belt mounting hardware

Fire Extinguisher

Helmets (SA-2005)

Window Netting

Arm Restraints

Kill Switch

 

That's just what I can think of off the top of my head, and like I said that doesn't include what ever it may take just to get the car in good running order.

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

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Yup. This will not be a $500 project. I'll be happy if we can it done for $1500.

 

Installation doesn't count toward the $500 if we do the installation ourselves, it only counts if we pay someone else to do the installation. I'm pretty sure we can DIY everything though.

 

I have a friend who will probably be happy to weld, and might even want to be part of the team (sharing costs and driving time).

 

I also have an SA-2005 helmet that I'm willing to share.

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Damn fine find. :) If we could only make sure it ran! :lol:

 

How do we go about proving the Escort is only worth $500 though? That's the part I can't get over. That means someone could have had a hobby car for years and just say "Hey, I've had this for years, it's only worth $500." How do we prove this to the race officials???

Please PM joeleodee For All Site Questions. He is the acting Admin and can resolve anything related to LegacyGT.com
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I still say that the Escort is the car we should be going with. I like the idea of doing a Subaru, but I like better the devil we know than the devil we don't know. Since the devil is always in the details, known details are easier to de-devil than the unknown details.

 

Oh Tommy! You Little Devil! :)

 

Yup I do agree with you on having more confidence with the known rather than the unknown.

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I have enough drama for now.....
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Nice Find!!!

 

I agree that we should spend as much as allowed on safety and definitely on brakes, brake lines and fluids. Good brakes will allow us to brake later which possibly in some situations will help the car through the turns faster.

.

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I have enough drama for now.....
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But how do we prove it's worth $500?

 

 

One way is for me to find the bill of sale for $250 from when I bought the car.

 

Also, this was quoted from the Chumpcar forums:

 

It has been beaten to death, and while I could point you to the threads and force you to wade through them, I'll just give you the answer:

 

BRING A $500 CAR

 

If you've upgraded your car with low vehicle valuations from LeMons such that it's now worth more than $500, you will need to be prepared for penalty laps. If you've just replaced broken things with junkyard OEM stuff, you're likely OK if you were OK with LeMons. We'll be on the lookout for cars that are likely more than $500, and components on crappy cars that make them worth more than $500 (coil overs, heim joints, lumpy cams etc). If you don't fall into either of these categories, you're fine.

 

If you think you appear to be in one of these categories, but have documentation showing your car is an honest $500 even with all your mods or with your valuable car, bring it!

Jump on it, Let's do it, Ride it, My Pony...

 

EL4NFZT7

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