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Running Mobil One 15w50 in my LGT - Just because I felt like it


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Mobil 1? In a Boxer?

Joe ... you, sir, are dead to me.

 

 

See, this is exactly why I had to start this thread. I haven't had any over the top oil humor in awhile....

 

And this weekend, I'm going to (If I can get my rear diff fill bolt out) fill the rear diff with 75w110. Oh No!

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Some people just love to get abused or are you seeking attention ?

 

75w-110, what, do you think you drive a big rig ? lol

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I still have a case of Quaker State in metal cans.

 

Anyone remember the engines lost in the 70's due to some bad QS? "Made from pure Pennsylvania crude", AKA donkey jizz.

 

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

My dad told me about those days.

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Some people just love to get abused or are you seeking attention ?

 

75w-110, what, do you think you drive a big rig ? lol

 

Much like many members on here like to point out that you can run cheap dino for 150k miles with no problems, I like to point out that you fears about viscosities are unfounded :)

 

And that you too can spend too much money on lubricants like me :)

 

Btw, 75w110 is just a fancy way of saying it's a 75w90 that is at the top range of the 90 side :)

 

Been running it in my trans/front diff for ~15-20k miles now. Feels goooooodddddd :)

 

Joe

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I still have a case of Quaker State in metal cans.

 

Anyone remember the engines lost in the 70's due to some bad QS? "Made from pure Pennsylvania crude", AKA donkey jizz.

 

 

Guility. At 85,000 miles my 1970 Duster 340 had a 1/4" wide grove in the rear main crank journal. Thank you Quaker State. The oil also foamed alot.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Much like many members on here like to point out that you can run cheap dino for 150k miles with no problems, I like to point out that you fears about viscosities are unfounded :)

 

And that you too can spend too much money on lubricants like me :)

 

Btw, 75w110 is just a fancy way of saying it's a 75w90 that is at the top range of the 90 side :)

 

Been running it in my trans/front diff for ~15-20k miles now. Feels goooooodddddd :)

 

Joe

 

I'm thinking about taking a picture of my dip stick, (get that thought out of your mind) to show how 110,600 miles and over 2300 miles since the last oil change looks. I have used cheap dino oil since new. I'll do that over the weekend so we can have another oil thread to talk about next week. Everybody likes attention...lol

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Great thing to share again, thanks ehsnils. One complexity that is hard to make understood to da young'ns is that the higher a viscosity is spread (i.e. 5w50), the less stable an oil tends to be and more likely it is to break down under extreme stress, both in terms of overall viscosity and in molecular integrity. Nowadays you don't need to worry about that (as much) as most oils that are 5w40 etc. are rock solid stable. For me, I wouldn't be worried about stability except for the banjo bolt filter.

 

I've read Rao's write-up and many, many others and I don't see any consistent reason why it clogs....besides the theory that people that were running dino oil for 7500 miles under the original maintenance schedule were clogging them up with sludged oil. But then we see tons of people with turbo failures in 2005/2006....is that a turbo design issue? A banjo bolt issue? I don't know...

 

Besides which, tons of LGT owners run dino oil for 3-5k intervals and seem to be doing just fine.

 

So for me, I like to choose an oil (now) that I know isn't going to break down and hope that if it's a banjo bolt filter, I'm hedging my bets, and if it was a turbo design issue, they re-designed the turbo and named it the VF-46 and hopefully that's more reliable.

 

In the meantime, I'll play with lots of shear-stable oils and see what I like for after warranty is up and when I want to run long drain intervals.

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Besides which, tons of LGT owners run dino oil for 3-5k intervals and seem to be doing just fine.

 

QUOTE]

 

 

That would be some one like me, :):)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yep, lots of examples of that and lots of examples of guys running 5w30/10w30 synthetic oils with 3-5k oil change intervals getting blown turbos. Like I said, I have no idea if it's lubrication related (as alot of people seem to think) or if it's a turbo design issue. Or why the banjo bolt would be getting clogged on those people who DID maintain their cars adequately....

 

Joe

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From what I understand the banjo bolt does contain a filter and if so that should be cleaned too. Since the precision of an engine varies and the driving conditions varies it means that it eventually gets clogged. It doesn't have to be an oil issue in itself.

 

There is a reason why you replace your ordinary oil filter, but keep in mind that the normal oil filter contains a bypass valve that allows the oil to pass unfiltered in case it gets clogged. And if the bypass valve starts to operate - where do you think that the muck ends up? - Right! The banjo bolt!

 

I also found this thread on the subject: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/101927-turbo-oil-feed-avcs-line-replacement.html

 

And Subaru isn't the only manufacturer that has had a problem with a clogged turbo oil feed.

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From what I understand the banjo bolt does contain a filter and if so that should be cleaned too. Since the precision of an engine varies and the driving conditions varies it means that it eventually gets clogged. It doesn't have to be an oil issue in itself.

 

There is a reason why you replace your ordinary oil filter, but keep in mind that the normal oil filter contains a bypass valve that allows the oil to pass unfiltered in case it gets clogged. And if the bypass valve starts to operate - where do you think that the muck ends up? - Right! The banjo bolt!

 

I also found this thread on the subject: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/101927-turbo-oil-feed-avcs-line-replacement.html

 

And Subaru isn't the only manufacturer that has had a problem with a clogged turbo oil feed.

 

Great thread....interesting that turninconcepts said to toss the filter per a service bulletin. I didn't remember that being definitive in any service bulletins on the 2.5 I'd seen...

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Great thread....interesting that turninconcepts said to toss the filter per a service bulletin. I didn't remember that being definitive in any service bulletins on the 2.5 I'd seen...

 

The interesting thing here would actually be to find out what the muck in the filter actually consists of whenever the filter is clogged.

 

This is certainly a case of being cursed whatever you do. If you keep the filter it can get clogged with subsequent turbo failure and if you remove it you may get particles into the turbo causing damage and subsequent failure.

 

One thought is that the thing clogging the filter actually is some kind of protective material (like wax or epoxy) that has covered the inside of the engine blocks that hasn't been washed away before assembling the engine. Or that some blocks have been contaminated in some way because they have been exposed to the elements during transport or manufacturing. That contamination is then washed away slowly by the oil and ending up in the filter. At least this is my theory.

 

At least - the safest way to resolve this is to check the filter on a regular basis. It may suck, but the alternatives sucks more.

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