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3rd Gear Destroyed


j255c

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400whp/150wtq! :lol:

 

Contrary to popular believe, the d-series was quite impressive with matching horsepower and torque. A d16z6 making 400whp, would almost always make 350+wtq. Its the b-series motors taking the crown of torqueless wonder. Ive seen plenty of 500+whp b18's making less than 380wtq

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Here we go, HONDAS ARE THE FASTEST!!!!!!!

 

Im not saying that, I hate hondas, they do nothing but break and cause headache, I was just conversing on transmission strength.

 

Anyways, back on topic.

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tranny is out, debating whether or not to crack her open because I know what's in there and fear if i must have it rebuilt by a shop they wont want an already cracked open case. Anyways heres a pic.

photo(3).thumb.jpg.b52a49477b3c192e757257555a62e235.jpg

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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If there weren't such thing as bad luck you wouldn't have any at all :( Sorry to hear about your most recent mishaps, I would put a stocker back in there and call it a day. No reason to throw another $3-4K at it for something else to let go.
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Throwing in another stock one is a total band aid fix. I may do this and run 10lbs until i can find something to cope with the setup, or just keep it on jackstands until the end of the summer and do the sti swap. I dont know, but let me tell you dropping a transmission with about 2" of clearance and no transmission jack is no small task. Lot of cursing, screaming and pushing. Only managed to strip 2 bolts, one on driveshaft and one on the ball joint.

 

Also im shocked at how much movement the engine has, its pathetic.

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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When I replaced the driveshafts in my wife's 01 OB there was a pin holding the inner CV joint to the tranny output shaft. The output shaft turned out to be be only about 6" long either side - it's held in place with a spring clip inside the tranny. It's easier to pop out the shafts with a prybar versus yanking on the end and risking damaging the CV joints.

 

Some trannies (notable the AXOD/AXODE/AX4N and AX4S from Ford) have a warning in the haynes manual about removing both halfshafts at the same time for fear of the spider gears alling out of place in the diff inside the transaxle. Sounded like bollocks to me, but not worth the risk, so I try to avoid pulling the axles out the the tranny if I can - the pint is ideal. Just need a pin setter (like a set of big-assed nail punches) from the hardware store.

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When I replaced the driveshafts in my wife's 01 OB there was a pin holding the inner CV joint to the tranny output shaft. The output shaft turned out to be be only about 6" long either side - it's held in place with a spring clip inside the tranny. It's easier to pop out the shafts with a prybar versus yanking on the end and risking damaging the CV joints.

 

Some trannies (notable the AXOD/AXODE/AX4N and AX4S from Ford) have a warning in the haynes manual about removing both halfshafts at the same time for fear of the spider gears alling out of place in the diff inside the transaxle. Sounded like bollocks to me, but not worth the risk, so I try to avoid pulling the axles out the the tranny if I can - the pint is ideal. Just need a pin setter (like a set of big-assed nail punches) from the hardware store.

 

Way to late, i ended up just taking off the entire lca so i could rotate the hubs to pull out the axles straight. It's not overwhelmingly difficult, i just would never want to do it again without a lift and air tools/impact wrench.

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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No air tools = pain.

 

My old Maxima puked the input shaft bearing and I rebuilt it myself. First time took me 5 hours to get the tranny out, 4 hours back in.

 

Then I realized I had no 2nd gear - c-clip loosened as I removed it and didn't hold back in place. 3 hours out, squeeze the c-clip in about 2mm with vice grips, 3 hours back in.

 

Then it was leaking oil because I damaged the seal surface when cutting the old bearing off (Nissan approved method!). 1.5 hours out, input shaft to machine shop for the scratch to be filled with jbweld and machined back to spec on a lathe (only $40, next day service, w00t!) 1.5 hours back in.

 

3rd time was the charm. 50k flawless miles later, i sold the car.

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I'm running around 320 whp (Mustang dyno) on the stock 5MT tranny. Just recently, I had Group N tranny/motor mounts & cross member bushings installed to improve the throttle response and drivetrain slack. I was especially suprised how mushy the stock tranny mount was after having it removed...:eek: Do these stiffer components add considerably more strain on the transmission or enough to be at all concerned about?
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Ahh i know your pain j255c and i was still on stock turbo! This is what i found when i split my case after my 2nd gear blew! I ended up rebuliding it myself with stock parts since it was the cheapest way to go for me at the time. If you decide to rebulid it yourself feel free pm me with any questions! Here is all the pictures!

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99749&highlight=send+link&page=3

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp60/kevkel50/tranny.jpg

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp60/kevkel50/DSC01560.jpg

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haha It's been doing good for just over 5K now:) I just let her breathe now when i shift lol

 

See i would do that, but the fact is it blew when i was rolling into 3rd gear. Floored it @ 2000rpm in 3rd gear, hit the defogger switch "logging paramater" romraider thingy turns green. Come around 4500rpm the torque really starts hitting, kaboom. Is all good, luckily my family has a jeep wrangler i can drive around for a while.

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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I'm running around 320 whp (Mustang dyno) on the stock 5MT tranny. Just recently, I had Group N tranny/motor mounts & cross member bushings installed to improve the throttle response and drivetrain slack. I was especially suprised how mushy the stock tranny mount was after having it removed...:eek: Do these stiffer components add considerably more strain on the transmission or enough to be at all concerned about?

 

Couldnt tell you, but i was shocked at how gooey the transmission mount is and how much the engine can move around when your yanking at the transmission. Not liking these mounts at all.

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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See i would do that, but the fact is it blew when i was rolling into 3rd gear. Floored it @ 2000rpm in 3rd gear, hit the defogger switch "logging paramater" romraider thingy turns green. Come around 4500rpm the torque really starts hitting, kaboom. Is all good, luckily my family has a jeep wrangler i can drive around for a while.

 

goodpoint I'm still saving up for my 6speed swap lol. unfortunately we sold the famlies "3rd" car no joke the week before mine went:mad:

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Couldnt tell you, but i was shocked at how gooey the transmission mount is and how much the engine can move around when your yanking at the transmission. Not liking these mounts at all.

 

I hear ya....I had to replace mine after seeing mweiner2's Youtube demo, plus I had noticeable drivetrain slack that irritated me. My tranny mount was just about as bad. I highly recommend the STI Group N mounts. They have some give, but are noticeably stiffer than stock.

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I recommend doing engine Group N mounts first. Virtually 0 NVH penalty and the motor stays put. I run Impreza STI tranny mount with my 6-speed swap as a happy middle ground between stock (SpecB) mush and hard Group N tranny mount.
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I recommend doing engine Group N mounts first. Virtually 0 NVH penalty and the motor stays put. I run Impreza STI tranny mount with my 6-speed swap as a happy middle ground between stock (SpecB) mush and hard Group N tranny mount.

 

I mentioned this to the shop that rebuilt my motor, they said the stock mounts are fine. Which is true, but if i can torque the motor that much i dont even want to know what happens when im asking it to make 500chp.

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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