mccorry Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Meh... should be fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Could someone tell me what one of the waterpump bolt size is ? One of mine are slightly warped I fear a leak a my happen in the future. part number a10693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Could someone tell me what one of the waterpump bolt size is ? One of mine are slightly warped I fear a leak a my happen in the future. part number a10693 Take it to a auto parts store, they can match it up and sell you the correct bolt. I'm guess 6x1.25 I don't know the lenght, may 35. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 So I am dropping this off to be done tonight... In addition to the belt, these items are recommended to be replaced too: Water Pump Thermostat Timing Belt Tensioner The 4 Idler Pullies (If they look bad) My question is... The Water Pump I know of, I will replace that. And the Timing Belt Tensioner, I will replace that too. What about the T-Stat...is that necessary, or is it of such marginal cost, that it just makes sense to replace it anyways? The pullies i'm at the mercy of the shop..."if they look bad" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aklam82 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 The thermostat will have to be removed to install the new water pump so it makes sense to replace it now. It is cheap so don't worry about cost, plus the shop would probably do it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) ^^The pullies should be ok. You should have them replace the drive belts also, aka, alternator and a/c. Yes the T'stat should be changed. It's cheap insurance, you know the old saying, pay now or pay me a lot more money later. Edited May 31, 2011 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05COLEGGT Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hi All, Quick question. I'm doing my timing belt on my 05 GT and the vise grips got bumped off the drivers side cams and they sprung back. I got everything lined back up and turned over the engine by hand to feel the compression. It feels the same as it did before changing the belt. What's the odds that my valves got bent on the drivers side head? I'm thinking of finishing up and starting the engine to see if I hurt it, but am weary of causing any more damage. Any suggestions? I know the subie engine is interference and damage can happen if the valve heads collide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 I guess by now you have started the engine and all is fine. Most of us have had that happen. Appearently having the cams snap back with out the engine running is ok. I have about 45,000 miles since I did my T belt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05COLEGGT Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah, everything seems to be fine. Just had a little scare there is all. I also replaced the OE up pipe with one from a STi. Nice decrease in spool time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah, everything seems to be fine. Just had a little scare there is all. I also replaced the OE up pipe with one from a STi. Nice decrease in spool time. You'll need to have a tune with that up pipe (?) 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Nah.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normshu Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Thanks for all the info guys. You all are a big help. I'm doing my t-belt and water pump in a week. Looks pretty basic thanks to pyromarty. I'll let you know how it goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewk2 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) Me and my mechanic friend done my timing belt/water pump, accessory belts, and spark plugs this past weekend. I used the Gates timing belt kit complete with water pump. Some thoughts: --2 people make this job much easier. I don't know how 1 person does it. --we removed the whole radiator/fan assembly to give us plenty of room. --with the extra room, his impact gun fit over the harmonic balancer nut to remove it. Be careful it doesn't back off too quickly or your impact gun will collide back into your condenser radiator. --another thought.....my mechanic thought there is a way to hold the flywheel still by removing a small rubber plug that is just under the intercooler on the passenger side and putting a large prybar/flathead screwdriver down that hole while removing the harmonic balancer nut. Anyone know if this is true? --the vise grip trick to hold the driver side gears together is an awesome help. The only issue I had after the completed job was we forgot to put the rubber washer/gasket on the radiator drain plug before screwing it in. Now we can't find it and it drips antifreeze about 2 ounces per day. I am having a hard time finding a replacement radiator drain plug or just the rubber washer/gasket. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Edited June 28, 2011 by drewk2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Me and my mechanic friend done my timing belt/water pump, accessory belts, and spark plugs this past weekend. I used the Gates timing belt kit complete with water pump. Some thoughts: --2 people make this job much easier. I don't know how 1 person does it. --we removed the whole radiator/fan assembly to give us plenty of room. --with the extra room, his impact gun fit over the harmonic balancer nut to remove it. Be careful it doesn't back off too quickly or your impact gun will collide back into your condenser radiator. --another thought.....my mechanic thought there is a way to hold the flywheel still by removing a small rubber plug that is just under the intercooler on the passenger side and putting a large prybar/flathead screwdriver down that hole while removing the harmonic balancer nut. Anyone know if this is true? --the vise grip trick to hold the driver side gears together is an awesome help. The only issue I had after the completed job was we forgot to put the rubber washer/gasket on the radiator drain plug before screwing it in. Now we can't find it and it drips antifreeze about 2 ounces per day. I am having a hard time finding a replacement radiator drain plug or just the rubber washer/gasket. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? I bought a replacement plug at Fred Beans, and the damn thing cost something like $14....and the rubber washer isn't included! Dealership is probably your best bet...special order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 14, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) I have 66k on my car, and will be doing this around 100k. I'm doing my homework now at work as we have literally nothing to do. I figure if I can do plugs, I can do this. I've read thru both forums back to back by max and pyro and I have a few questions. I'm trying to get the science down on this. From the compression inside the engine, it will cause the intake/exhaust cams to move when the belt is removed? This is why we put the vice grips on, clamping the upper and lower cam together before removing the belt? Do we do this to just the drivers side, or both sides before removing the belt? Ok so say I got the belt off. Now I gotta line all the marks up. Well if we viced both the driver and passeger side cams together, shouldn't those marks still be lines up? Lets say they arent, some members said once they removed the tensioner the cams slipped a little. Or maybe the markings on the belt arent lining up all the way around, so we have to move the cams a little (does the belt in the kit from FBP have marks on it?) Which way can you turn cams, drivers side/ passenger side, upper/lower, without bending the valves? Which one is the intake/exhaust cam? top/bottom? I would like to replace the hoses and acc belts while I'm in there as well. I'm buying the fred beans t-belt kit including water pump, i'll buy the t-stat and gasket too. Are there such thing as hose-kits? I know a lot of you are probably thinking "another idiot trying a DIY project that won't get finished." This is very do-able, everything is understandable until i get to the cams. I may not be an auto mechanic, but I'm not an idiot! I just want to make sure I understand everything before I remove the t-belt, and how to adjust the cams properly if I need to. Thanks! Edited July 14, 2011 by paintpollz "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 20, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted July 20, 2011 anyone? did i even stump the techs? "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) Sorry.. just saw this. The valve spring load on the camshaft lobes is what tries to move the cam pullies. Just the drivers side requires this. The passengers side cams are both in "neutral" position. You want to align all the marks before taking off the belt. That way everything moves in unison. You don't want to go rotating anything independantly (at least not very much). That's when bad things will happen. When the new belt goes on, all the marks should be dead nuts where they're supposed to be. My Gates racing belt had marks, as does the OEM subaru belts. Don't know about the belds from FBP. The intake cam is the top one on both sides... the exhaust cam is the bottom. Edited July 20, 2011 by mccorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) I think some of your questions will be answered if you read this thread and the one I made a few years back. Mine has pictures in it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193p3.html You have a long time before you need to replace yours. Do you have a good set of tools ? Edited July 20, 2011 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 21, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted July 21, 2011 mccorry thanks for the explanation, it cleared everything up. max I have a good set of tools, I should be ok to do this. at the rate im driving right now this is about a year and a half away. i just wanted to clear some stuff up before i dig to deep. your thread has some great pics in it that i will follow. thanks again guys! "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewk2 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 anyone? did i even stump the techs? My advice is to definitely have a friend (preferably mechanically inclined) to help. Believe me, two pairs of eyes are better than one when it comes to making sure everything is aligned and correct. More than 2 hands are helpful too in some of the steps needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 22, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted July 22, 2011 ok good looks. I got a buddy that'll help "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwhillVT Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Great Thread. I am at 102K and started looking into buying parts. I fully intended to do this myself but for giggles I got a quote from the local dealer. They quoted parts at 1005.14 (belt, idlers, tentioner, water pump, thermostat), labor at $884 plus a coolant flush at $179.95. A grand total of $2069.09. My jaw dropped when I saw that total. Could this really be correct or did the service lady screw up? My transmission rebuild cost less than this! (done at a Subaru shop not the dealer of course) Also, is there a place where I can rent a harmonic balance removal tool? Are these things a Subaru specific or are they pretty generic? What did everyone else use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 You don't need it... the balancer / pulley is a slip fit. Just pull the bolt out of the center... then wiggle the balancer back and forth while pulling forward and it will slide right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Great Thread. I am at 102K and started looking into buying parts. I fully intended to do this myself but for giggles I got a quote from the local dealer. They quoted parts at 1005.14 (belt, idlers, tentioner, water pump, thermostat), labor at $884 plus a coolant flush at $179.95. A grand total of $2069.09. My jaw dropped when I saw that total. Could this really be correct or did the service lady screw up? My transmission rebuild cost less than this! (done at a Subaru shop not the dealer of course) Also, is there a place where I can rent a harmonic balance removal tool? Are these things a Subaru specific or are they pretty generic? What did everyone else use? I notice you are in Bmore...is it convienent at all to get to Gaithersburg? I have no vested interest in DPS Tuning, other than getting great service there for my clutch job and timing belt job, at a great price. To do the belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and gaskets my TOTAL was right around $960. That is HALF what your dealer is asking for. Not sure if you need a coolant flush? Since I had recently completed my 90k service, I believe DPS just dumped my coolant and reused it since it was good. Anyways, if going to Gaithersburg is good for you, I suggest giving them a ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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