Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 If your asking about the cam gears, only the drivers side is under load. Only the top one on that side is that one that is under spring pressure. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Alright, so one vise grip, but you are clamping the top gear to the bottom gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liljonson Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 just to add to it... when you have the fans out your might as well just remove the radiator. its 2 bolts up top and it comes out. gives you alot more room and you wont damage it by accident. Also its ok to use a vise to compress tensioner. Every car manufacturer says not to but its bull. if you do it slowly you will be fine. This is the easiest tbelt i've ever done on a car. I can only imagine how the non turbo sohc motors are. BTW.. this is also the tightest belt ive put on a car.... jeez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Alright, so one vise grip, but you are clamping the top gear to the bottom gear? That's right but don't make the vise grip too tight. You don't want to break the gears. All in all this T-belt and water pump job is easier than changing the plugs on this car:lol: "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 That's right but don't make the vise grip too tight. You don't want to break the gears. All in all this T-belt and water pump job is easier than changing the plugs on this car:lol: You think like me. I pay someone the replace the plugs, but did my own T belt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Ok, thanks for the confirmation guys. I'm sure it's obvious once it in front of you, but hard to visualize just from the description. Now it's clear Spark plugs aren't that bad....cmon -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Spark plugs aren't that bad....cmon -Rob I was actually confused at all the posts on how hard spark plugs were to do... Even AFTER I did mine, at the same time as I removed my turbo inlet without taking off the upper intake and I heard that was a nightmare as well... I'm starting to think and hope that this timing belt replacement is going to be a cake walk. I'll report back with pics of said vice grip method, and also my results/findings... since I'm at 104,995 miles. Can't be any harder than rebuilding a FWD automatic transmission for that pink thing in my avatar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 (edited) Done and Done... Including clean up and prep, I started at 6pm and finished up with the needed oil change at 10pm. All and all, quite easy if you ask me. I've done one on an Impreze SOHC that was a bit simpler, but very similar. Vice Grip method in use. Worked like a charm, just remember, you only need SLIGHT Pressure to hold it... any stronger and you risk breaking the pulleys. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/IMG_6632.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/IMG_6630.jpg Replaced the belt, which you could see visual wear on the teeth, they were much smaller than the new belt, And I also did All of the pulleys, tensioner and the water pump. Next on my list of things to do is the clutch and struts/springs. Edited October 27, 2010 by B-BGTLimited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 nice work! 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I finally finished changing mine at 112k. I would recommend pre-ordering replacement coolant hoses prior to doing the change. I thought of this too late and nobody had them in stock. I bought the full Gates kit with WP and idlers (also changed the T-stat). All still looked pretty good @115k miles. This was my first subaru timing belt change. Holy crap that's a lot of marks, lines, pulley's and idlers Thanks for the info and the tip on holding the pulleys. It was all very straight forward. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aklam82 Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 I agree with rob on the coolant hose. The large upper coolant hose leaked after re-installation and I had a local shop replace it while they were doing a 07+ clutch install for me. So far I've only had the one hose leak. All of the other hoses were OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Right, my top hose is now leaking after reinstall It is very slight and I think it is only under pressure. I think I forgot to clean the crusty gunk off of the metal pipe and it's not making a good seal. Speaking of hoses, I did order the two small hoses that go from the pump back into the engine. It turns out that I only had enough room to replace one without pulling the rear belt cover off. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the two hoses that go from the WP to the oil cooler. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papp101 Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Anyone have some experience about the best place with the best price for the whole kit with waterpump, tensioner, belt and rollers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 I picked up the complete Gates kit from FB; http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/gates-racing-subaru-legacy-gt-timing-kit-s.html It doesn't come with a Tstat, so you will have to pick one up elsewhere. Also I used a new OEM WP gasket versus the one included in the gates kit. The OEM is metal and the Gates one is paper (I think). Just for reference @112k miles, all the components that I replaced seemed to be in good shape. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronburgandy21 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 So I decided to tackle this tonight. Pretty straight forward. I came to an issue when I vise gripped the driver side cams together. I used light pressure as stated and when I removed the tensioner the cams slipped about a quarter inch maybe less in my vise grips. So I guess my question is, are both cams the upper and lower wound? Can I hold the top cam and unclamp, rotate the cam back and re-clamp? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromarty Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 wow it's been a while since i've been on here! Yes you can just move the cam that has shifted a little bit, only one Cam pulley at a time, and they both go the same direction, or you can extend them both and hit each other. ( Not the piston, but the valves will touch in a "V" style) one at a time, same directions, good to go. driver side upper cam is the hardest, as it's like a mouse trap just too much to one side or the other it wants to take off. patiences and a few cold ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronburgandy21 Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Thanks for the reply. I was able to get it all lined up. Runs like a champ! Thanks for th directions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 My clamp slipped off and moved more than a 1/4 inch. More like inches. Lined it up. valves are f'ed. Need a new cyl head or valves together. I posted in the turbo legacy section, so if any one can can help me figure out what to do please help. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 They can move a little bit (30 deg. or so) without doing any damage. Did you turn them the wrong way after they sprang? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Turned more than that. Went over the situation and what I think happen was the the board I was blocking the fins on the radiator hit the brace. Then subaru gets more money from me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gvr4-330 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) Hey, just bought an 05 LGT and it's due for a timing belt change. This looks alot easier than the Mitsubishi 4G63s I've done, except for having to deal with double the cam gears Anyway, I ordered the full Gates kit off Rock Auto. What else should I change while I'm in there? I'm going to order Subaru coolant, OEM thermostat, OEM coolant hoses, and OEM water pump gasket. Is it worth ordering the little rubber hoses that connect to the water pump too? I also will be ordering new accessory belts. What will I need, and is it worth going OEM? I've also heard this is a good time to replace the camshaft seals and oil pump seals too but that looks like its a much bigger pain. What is everyone's thought on that? Thanks in advance! Rob Edited April 16, 2011 by Gvr4-330 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 I went with after market belts and other parts. My seals were dry and still are, at 142,000 miles. I have not changed them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) While I was at it its a good idea to do a Radiator Flush and new ac/ ps belts. Replaced all the pulleys to. Didn't change the thermostat though. Edited April 24, 2011 by ibr_adam09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdn Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 This work is a bit advanced for me but I think Subaru being an "engineers" car would be overbuilt and the timing belt good for at least 10% more than the manual recommends (168,000 km in Canada, or about 105,000 mi) for my 05 Outback. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gvr4-330 Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Just did the timing belt today. Wasn't too bad, except for keeping my driver's side cams from spinning the wrong way. A few times, they would move on their own, spinning the wrong way. Luckily, it doesn't seem like I bent any valves. Unluckily, the belt fell into some ATF that had spilled on the ground. I wiped it off, but now I'm thinking I should change the timing belt again soon What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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