zx6rexx Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I got it on! you guys were right it took some patience and finesse but i was able to line up all the marks and the belt lines up 100% in the proper orientation it just kind of happend as i was pulling the belt over the top drivers side gear, everything else was in place and i rotated it in place and once the last idler went on marks were spot on! started the car and everything sounds fine, i noticed it sounds a slight bit louder with the grimmspeed pulley but i cant confirm that.. one thing though, i seem to have a small puncture on one of the water pump hoses and its leaking slowly, it must have cut a small bit of the line from wiggling that damn metal clip in place..will i be able to seal that up with some kind of rubber sealant or worse case with some duct tape and hose clamps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 one thing though, i seem to have a small puncture on one of the water pump hoses and its leaking slowly, it must have cut a small bit of the line from wiggling that damn metal clip in place..will i be able to seal that up with some kind of rubber sealant or worse case with some duct tape and hose clamps? BUY NEW HOSES. Seriously, man... after all that effort you wanna cheap out and half-ass the hoses????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I had same issue. Replace the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx6rexx Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 ok i have replaced the hose and no more leak, however, i am noticing a slight metal rattling sound cant pinpoint the location but i have a feeling its one of the tensioners or idlers... was there supposed to be a washer on the back of the tensioner where the bolt threads into the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 ok i have replaced the hose and no more leak, however, i am noticing a slight metal rattling sound cant pinpoint the location but i have a feeling its one of the tensioners or idlers... You re-used your idlers and tensioner? Why? was there supposed to be a washer on the back of the tensioner where the bolt threads into the block? Yes, a washer goes on the back of that. Make sure the spacer bushing is inside it, too.... I kinda forgot to install the spacer bushing in my Impreza's tensioner when I did that thing's timing belt. Then I lost it. I ended up making a new bushing out of self-lubricating brass sleeves purchased at tractor supply...... and then I found the bushing a few weeks later under my tool box. No, I didn't tear it all apart again to install. Self-lubricating brass is fine in that location... for a while. Yeah, that washer definitely needs to be in there and you may want to double check that the bushing is in there too. since you're pulling it all apart again to do that, make sure you have your marks lined up before you pull it apart... no need for haste to wreck your valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx6rexx Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 installed brand new idlers and tensioner installed the washer and the sleeve is definetly there along with the rubber seal...i am not taking it apart again since i got everything lined up perfectly... strange thing is yesterday i took the car out finally and the sound is gone now i noticed the car pulls a bit harder now thanks to the light pulley not a huge difference but noticeable i will keep an eye out over the first couple weeks for any new sounds or leaks but i think i am good to go and satisfied with the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 i think i am good to go and satisfied with the job. booyah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 what seals i must to replace during changing timing bet+water pump and please, part numbers of seals? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Non of mine were leaking so I didn't replace any. Do you have some that are leaking ? Use the opposedforces link in the sticky at the top of the very first forum. you can find the P/N's there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) i don`t no WHAT seals i must to change, so i cant find numbers of them and i don`t know do i need to change timing belt cover seal and bolts of it... no leaking now, but 10 years from birth of car.... Edited January 15, 2014 by Nuclear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Replace any seals that are leaking, otherwise leave it alone. That's the advice. If you want to do preventative maintenance, replace the cam seals, crank seals, water pump. timing belt cover seal is probably not needed. It just keeps dirt/moisture out, it doesn't seal anything in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 To replace the cam seals is not a easy task, if your asking these types of questions, that job is over your head. The cam gears can be a nightmare to remove. Take a good look with a light and see if you can see any leaks ? You can reuse the old bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 To replace the cam seals is not a easy task, if your asking these types of questions, that job is over your head. The cam gears can be a nightmare to remove. Take a good look with a light and see if you can see any leaks ? You can reuse the old bolts. Yeah EJ22 or EJ25 SOHC isn't so bad... These DOHC engines? I'd pay somebody else to do it... maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 So I've decided to tackle this job myself. After talking with the dealer I found out that the $500 price they quoted me only included replacing the belt itself, not any of the tensioners or pulleys, and of course not the water pump. To do all of those they think it would be in the $900-1000 range. Of course I would also want the drive belts replaced and maybe even the thermostat too so it would be even more. This won't be my first TB job. My last one was on a '91 Nissan Maxima with a transverse engine that meant very little room to work. In contrast the Subaru has a ton of room and the location couldn't be easier to get to. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you guys though. My '05 LGT only has 64k miles on it. I'm replacing the belt not due to mileage but due to it's age. If you were in my situation with the low miles, would you replace the water pump? Normally I wouldn't even give it a second thought and put a new one in, but I've read that some guys are getting a ton of trouble free miles on the oem WP, and others are saying the WP in the Gates kit doesn't seem to be as good of quality. Oh and one more thing. I'm a bit worried that I might put too much pressure on the cam sprockets using the Vise-Grip method to hold them in place. I looked around for alternatives and found a guy that used only a bolt with a nut on the end! Take a look. http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k252/lnmccoy/CamTool.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I looked around for alternatives and found a guy that used only a bolt with a nut on the end! Take a look. I dig. I dig A LOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I dig. I dig A LOT. It's one of those ideas that's so simple it can't possibly work....right? Since those two pulleys are so easy to access, I might get a bolt and nut and try this ahead of time. I want to see if I can get it in there tight enough that it doesn't roll out, but not too tight that it mars the pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 It's one of those ideas that's so simple it can't possibly work....right? Since those two pulleys are so easy to access, I might get a bolt and nut and try this ahead of time. I want to see if I can get it in there tight enough that it doesn't roll out, but not too tight that it mars the pulley. Looks like it's open to interpretation. Personally, I bet a pair of monopoly dice (or scrabble letters... or dominos...) and a strong rubber band would do it just as well.... As long as the concept of what is being attempted is actually achieved, anything could work really. All it has to do is keep them from rotating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schultz Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 My ’02 Legacy L wagon has 112K miles on it, so it’s past due for a timing belt. After reading through several threads here and watching a very detailed video on YouTube, I’m pretty sure I can handle this job myself and save $500. I’ve decided to go with the Gates kit without the water pump, and an OEM water pump. From what I can tell, the difference between the two kits (with wp and without) is not only the wp itself, but also the wp gasket and the thermostat o-ring. The gasket I’ll get with the wp. I just want to make sure I’m ordering the right o-ring. Advance Auto shows these two when I search for thermostat gasket: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/victor-reinz-thermostat-o-ring-c32371/10307436-P?searchTerm=thermostat+gasket and http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/victor-reinz-thermostat-seal-c32213/10307417-P?searchTerm=thermostat+gasket The first one is actually called an o-ring, so I’m guessing that is the one I want. But having never done this job before, I just want to make sure I have the right part ahead of time. So can someone verify this for me? Also, I can’t tell whether I need to order one or two of these: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-camshaft-front-seal-set-tcs-46008/15780700-P I know there are two camshafts. Does each one of them need two seals, or does this come with two seals to take care of both camshafts? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) A couple of things. Order the Gates timing belt/roller/tensioner kit from Amazon. Buy the water pump, gasket, thermostat and thermostat gasket from Subaru. AutoZone and Advance are for buying shop towels and gojo when they go on sale. And brake cleaner. Can't beat those 2 for 1 deals. Buy ONLY Subaru antifreeze. Use ONLY distilled or deionized water with it. If you can borrow the cam holder tools and the crank pulley holder tool, do that. The whole job gets a LOT EASIER. Edited March 26, 2014 by evil03mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schultz Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) A couple of things. Order the Gates timing belt/roller/tensioner kit from Amazon. Yep, that's the one I plan to get. Buy the water pump, gasket, thermostat and thermostat gasket from Subaru. AutoZone and Advance are for buying shop towels and gojo when they go on sale. And brake cleaner. Can't beat those 2 for 1 deals. Good to know. I had planned to get the water pump and gasket from Subaru, but I didn't realize I needed to also avoid the generic thermostat and seals. I'll move those over to the OEM list. Buy ONLY Subaru antifreeze. Not doubting you, but I'm just curious why. I've always just used whatever antifreeze was on sale. Use ONLY distilled or deionized water with it. Definitely. If you can borrow the cam holder tools and the crank pulley holder tool, do that. The whole job gets a LOT EASIER. The video I found on YouTube said to put a screwdriver in the flywheel inspection slot to remove the crank pulley. I'm not familiar with a pulley holder tool -- is that an easier route to go than the screwdriver? Edited March 27, 2014 by Schultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Never deionized. It's very corrosive. Just distilled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Never deionized. It's very corrosive. Just distilled. I must have read incorrectly somewhere about that then. My bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Good to know. I had planned to get the water pump and gasket from Subaru, but I didn't realize I needed to also avoid the generic thermostat and seals. I'll move those over to the OEM list. Yeah, not worth the frustration and unreliability. Just spend the $30 and sleep easier. Not doubting you, but I'm just curious why. I've always just used whatever antifreeze was on sale. I'm not sure what the reason is, but the Subaru antifreeze is a real deep green. Generic isn't. If it's not the same color, it's not the same formulation. I don't trust anything that wasn't engineered to work in this engine (with the exception of oil). Definitely. Distilled. I was incorrect about deionized. The video I found on YouTube said to put a screwdriver in the flywheel inspection slot to remove the crank pulley. I'm not familiar with a pulley holder tool -- is that an easier route to go than the screwdriver? The crank pulley holder tool would most certainly be less disaster-prone than a screwdriver. Then again, a whole lot of folks use the screwdriver method. I prefer to keep all of the applied torques at the front of the crank instead of going thorough it. That's just me though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schultz Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Yeah, not worth the frustration and unreliability. Just spend the $30 and sleep easier. Yeah, I've learned that there are times cheaping out costs more in the long run. I just appreciate forums like this where I can learn what's worth spending more on. The crank pulley holder tool would most certainly be less disaster-prone than a screwdriver. Then again, a whole lot of folks use the screwdriver method. I prefer to keep all of the applied torques at the front of the crank instead of going thorough it. That's just me though. I spent a little time looking online and found instructions for how to make my own pulley holder tool, so I think I'll give that a try. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 How many gallons of coolant are needed for a coolant change? At $23.xx a gallon from Subaru, I don't want to buy more than I have to! Also, I've read mixed reports on the Subaru "coolant conditioner," ie. head gasket leak stopper. Is the general consensus here to still use it? I'll definitely be buying the oem thermostat from Subaru too. I've never had good luck with any aftermarket thermostats. I have to change out the Beck/Arnley one I put in my Nissan Maxima because it's causing the cooling fans to run a lot more than usual for instance. Extra heat is something the 2.5GT and it's fragile head gaskets don't need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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