Silinc3r Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well just decided to do this before I drove to ATL-400 mile trip for Thanksgiving and Holy S@#$ the car fells so much better. The tranny was giving me problems and didn't know what was going on. Shifting is so much easier now. Great to know that it is taken care of since I just bought the car and didn't know when it had been done. Thanks again for the great write up. Oh and I hate those rear plugs. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNRZR Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well just decided to do this before I drove to ATL-400 mile trip for Thanksgiving and Holy S@#$ the car fells so much better. The tranny was giving me problems and didn't know what was going on. Shifting is so much easier now. Great to know that it is taken care of since I just bought the car and didn't know when it had been done. Thanks again for the great write up. Oh and I hate those rear plugs. What did you use for gear lube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I just went to Subaru and go the Subaru Extra S. The only thing is they only had it in a 5 gallon drum so they had to put it in a seperate containers for me. Luckly I am friends with the parts guy so I kind of got hooked up. Next time I'll just bring a water jug in and do it that way. Payed about 35 bucks for it. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuge Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 but looking at other threads on the forum there is an additive in the NS that is supposed to be designed for the manual transmission I believe the NS version (No-Slip) is designed for NON-LSD manual transmissions (i.e. those in the LGT) where the regular 75w90 is the fluid to use with an LSD (Our rear diff in the LGT). Joe Im sorry but are you two saying there is no Additive needed for the rear diff in the Manual LGTs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 LegacyGT Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 The regular Redline 75w90 has the friction modifiers needed for LSD's already in it where the 75w90ns does not. So with the 75w90, no additional additives are needed for the rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 The rear LS unit in an 05 LGT is a sealed viscous coupling with its own fluid (silicone). No limited slip additives are required in the rear differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnold16890 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Thank you very much, this was very helpful. One thing to note though is that the bolts are really tight, I ended up having to WD40 it over night and crack it with a long breaker bar the next morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Y.X. Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Thank you very much, this was very helpful. One thing to note though is that the bolts are really tight, I ended up having to WD40 it over night and crack it with a long breaker bar the next morning. I would suggest PB Blaster as it is a penetrating oil and WD-40 is a "water displacer" and will be less affective. Also, thank you for the write up!!! Really appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 anyone has part number for 6mt t70 drain plug? dealership is hopeless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Y.X. Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Here's multiple links to different manufacturers part numbers... [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27530-T-70-Torx-Bit/dp/B0014DILKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378675174&sr=8-1&keywords=t70+torx+bit]Lisle 27530 T-70 Torx Bit : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-24285-2-Inch-Drive/dp/B004FEI3PQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1378675174&sr=8-2&keywords=t70+torx+bit]Great Neck 24285 1/2-Inch Drive T70 Star Bit - Amazon.com[/ame] [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6198-Square-Drive-Socket/dp/B005J3LEUI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1378675174&sr=8-3&keywords=t70+torx+bit]OTC 6198 Torx T70 1/2" Square Drive Socket : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] [ame=http://www.amazon.com/GrimmSpeed-changing-transmission-fluid-Subarus/dp/B0087HK40Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1378675174&sr=8-4&keywords=t70+torx+bit]GrimmSpeed T70 Torx Bit (for changing transmission fluid on Subarus) : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 please read my post again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Y.X. Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 My bad... "Cracked 6MT oil pan. Please help!" I was changing my transmission fluid yesterday and all went well, untill today I have discovered a small paddle of transmission oil on my driveway. So I went under the car and have noticed that my oil pan has a hairline crack in it which slightly drips oil. Has anyone changed their at any point in time, if I remove the blot in the pan, will it drain all of the oil from the transmission? Do i need an new gasket or can I reuse the old one? Also does any one have part numbers? Any help is greatly appreciated. http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/7919/imag0029h.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us 31225AA010 shown below as "31225". I believe it uses an RTV gasket like "Fuji bond". We can provide everything you need for the repair. PM me with your address for a shipped quote. Also let me know if you'd like to use new bolts or reuse your old ones. http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/548/6mtcase.jpg Looks to be: 32195H01806 But found this too: http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/93172/subaru-drain-plug-change And this: http://www.fastwrx.com/sutrdrplandg.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 my bad ....what ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Y.X. Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 my bad, I posted what I found... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 the service manual screen drop unfortunately doesn't help either since these are not complete part #. Unless I am missing something. One way or another I ordered T70 drain plug. It will arrive on Wednesday. I will post part number if it's the right one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Just so you know you can do the rear without a pump... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3504288&postcount=29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Just a note that it is much easier to fill the rear diff by removing the spare tire, removing the rubber plug at the bottom of the tire well, and running a hose down to the fill hole. No need for a pump. I don't get no respect:woowoo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I'd like to change my diff fluids soon and I have a few quarts left over from my last vehicle. It's Valvoline 80W90 Durablend (Semi-synthetic) Gear oil. Can I use it or am I gonna run into trouble? It's close to 75W but I'm not sure how finicky these diffs are...It's cold here for a few months in the winter but I don't usually rip it as soon as I start the car/ usually drive a few miles under 30 Mph before I get on it. Thanks, Zack K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htioki Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I will be changing my tranny oil soon. This is good write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06lgtspecb Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Great write up! Just curious if you guys are changing the fluid cold or after a warm up? I cant imagine that thick fluid draining very well if it's cold. Probably get the plugs out easier if its warm as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 It's always a good idea to warm fluids up just before draining - not for your convenience, but rather to bring metal fragments and other contaminants into suspension so that they don't stay in the reservoir when the fluid is drained. Just be careful not to get burned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarnesDLGT Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 i didn't realize you needed that much fluid for the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 I did mine cold. No big difference really. Fairly warm out. Diff plugs were really rusted over but came out very easily. Shifts feel great. 3-1 Motul/shockproof combo. WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelby03232 Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I cant get my fill or drain plugs removed....any suggestions, I even used a floor jack on the wrench...it just lifted the rear of the car up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thElement Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I cant get my fill or drain plugs removed....any suggestions, I even used a floor jack on the wrench...it just lifted the rear of the car up... Are you going the right direction? Righty-Tighty (Clockwise) Lefty-Loosey (Counter Clockwise) I couldn't imagine them being that tight? Maybe smack the head of the plug (Carefully) with a plastic or brass mallet/hammer. Maybe your threads are rusted a little, try the smacking and some penetrating oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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