BoxerGT2.5 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 http://www.borla.com/media/installations/140123.pdf 2.25" back and then 2" from the y-pipe to the mufflers. Thats right....I just knew it wasn't one diameter straight thru. I need to find a nice 3inch system OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmundu Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Isn't the factory rear center pipe 2.5", then splitting into dual 2" to the mufflers? I thought I remember someone on the board actually measuring the pipe diameters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Isn't low end torque effected by going larger on the y-pipe (in a bad way)? I guess if flow for top-end power is the tuning goal, then this isn't an issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 By the time the exhaust gets back there is has cooled enough that it shouldn't matter what size the pipes are within reason. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Hmmmm.....Ken at RP told me they don't replace the Y-pipe becuase it is a good design and going larger robs low-end. ScoobySport's are known for making good torque, or so I hear. No truth to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Hmmmm.....Ken at RP told me they don't replace the Y-pipe becuase it is a good design and going larger robs low-end. ScoobySport's are known for making good torque, or so I hear. No truth to it? I think he's referring to loss of BP. ????? Exhaust diameter piping is not as big of a deal on TC cars as it is with N/A cars. If you wanted to you could put 5in diameter pipe back there, but I wouldn't put that same system on a N/A car.. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 just that there is a dual tip and single tip version. dual tips will be 3" and retail for $1010- .. single tips will be oval and released later. aggggh when will the price gouging madness stop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 aggggh when will the price gouging madness stop! When there are atleast 8 systems out. Till then...it's set your own price. Love capitalism. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I just got back from a local shop with a quote To do a turbo back (3” downpipe with a high flow cat) into a 2.5 cat back then into 2.25” after the Y with Flowmaster mufflers is ~$800 (+300 for stainless). A Cat back 2.5 into Y 2.25 after is ~$400 (+100 for stainless). Boxer – They can do round tail pipes Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 You don't want Flowmasters anywhere near a car with a turbo. $1,100 for stainless is not too bad. I'd be interested to know the cost for 3" all the way to the Y. Is this with all mandrel bends? Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panamajack Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Why dont you want flowmasters on a turbo car? Please explain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 The chambered design will cause you to lose power and increase spool up time. It is because of the way the chambers create waves in the exhaust flow. For maximum poewr what you want ideally are "turbo" mufflers which are really just straight through pipes with insulation surrounding the pipes. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 In regards to exhaust diameter, I've been going over this subject for a while, and after talking to a lot of people about it, pieced together the various parts of the puzzle. Too large of a diameter piping, especially around the center pipe, would likely cause you to lose low-end torque/power - on a car with a *stock* ecu setup. OTOH, when you have some control of a/f ratios, you will gain power with a larger system. My started off with just rear cans upgraded, which had a small but noticeable gain. Once the center pipe went in and everything was tuned for it, power gains were much larger across the board than the addition of the rear cans. The problem is that the majority of people that buy exhaust upgrades do it before they go for ECU upgrades. And most of them don't upgrade the ECU at any time afterwards, either. So a exhaust manufacturer has a bit of a dilemma - do they design for the stock ECU, or for ECU-tuned cars? Too big of an exhaust system on a non-tuned car is likely to return less-than-stock results. This tends to reflect badly upon the manufacturer. OTOH, a system designed for stock ECU isn't going to perform to well if you do tune the car, but whether or not you tune the car, it will perform better than stock. Thus I believe the majority of exhaust manufacturers tune for stock (logical, really) and some offer a different system for non-stock ECU owners. Cheers, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.e-bacs.com http://www.apexjapan.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 The chambered design will cause you to lose power and increase spool up time. It is because of the way the chambers create waves in the exhaust flow. For maximum poewr what you want ideally are "turbo" mufflers which are really just straight through pipes with insulation surrounding the pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 You don't want Flowmasters anywhere near a car with a turbo. $1,100 for stainless is not too bad. I'd be interested to know the cost for 3" all the way to the Y. Is this with all mandrel bends?Its all mandrel bends. They can’t do 3” all the way back because they don’t have a bender that big. They would order the parts to make the down pipe 3” then they could do all of the 2.5” bending on site. Muffler suggestions? Im sure they would let me bring in my own or get exactly what I wanted. Do you really need 3” all the way back? Im not going for crazy hp numbers here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Personally, I'm not convinced that the stock y pipe is all that bad. The Borla certainly doesn't look any better. I think the real restriction is in those mufflers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Personally, I'm not convinced that the stock y pipe is all that bad. The Borla certainly doesn't look any better. I think the real restriction is in those mufflers. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 ummm... unless your talking 1100 CAD that is still wacky expensive when you can buy 2 (say wrx) axel backs and pay for the labor/ parts for custom fitment and still have several hundred dollars to spare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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