smokin.legacy Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 rota tarmac 1= Prodrive/OZ P1 replicas rota tarmac 2= Prodrive gc-10e replicas rota tarmac 3= Prodrive gc-10g replicas you are correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1703/img2964cropedbalancedcs7.jpg 1.5 years on these Tarmac II's in Full-Royal Steel Gray, no problems. The paint on the inside faces has held up well (I clay and wax them when I take them off for the winter) and the polished face pulls together the chrome side rockers, front end, and tail lights. At $150/wheel, I won't be too heartbroken if one of them eventually bends, but with everything Massachusetts roads have thrown at them, they've held up admirably. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 +1....for the price they can't be beat. I've noticed a few minor flaws in my torques, but you have to look really close. It's not the finish, but the metal itself. Like not a super smooth edge or something like that. Again, you have to be REAL close to tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobE Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/rce2585/knock-offs.jpghttp://bp0.blogger.com/_DCMswdCRtsg/SCywD4z_QyI/AAAAAAAAAEk/16g5gDt71Cc/s1600-h/rotaposterkq9.jpg http://newenglandsubarus.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLGTaru Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 +1....for the price they can't be beat. I've noticed a few minor flaws in my torques, but you have to look really close. It's not the finish, but the metal itself. Like not a super smooth edge or something like that. Again, you have to be REAL close to tell. I have noticed the same thing as well in my SDR's. You have to look REAL close though, like you said. I have noticed however, a few spots on my wheels that probably have had rocks hit them..where some paint is chipped off....just got the wheels in the middle of July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I just ordered a set of G Forces for the STI. As long as they look pretty good and hold up under drag racing conditions and 2 more autox events, I'm fine. Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 ^ what about tarmac III? i think they are about the lightest 18" rota. Maybe a bit better for racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Gentleman and ladies - If you have an 18" wheel with 225/40 tires, that means you have less than 2" of rubber between your 3500 pound vehicle and terra firma. Even the stock 18" wheels won't hold up well to that over 75-100k miles (they'll get little bends that will most likely balance out fairly well). Rotas are pretty solidly made wheels. They hold up well, and their finishes are usually not quite as high quality as some other manufacturers. They have to keep their costs down somewhere. But the point is, they hold up. Most of the time, if you hit something hard enough to bend the rim (or blow the tire, or bubble the tire) it's going to be bad for the rim whether it's a solidly made cast wheel or a good quality forged wheel. And if you are that worried about it, get some tires in sizes like 225/45 or even 235/40 for the extra sidewall height. Inflate them on the higher end (i.e. 36-40 PSI) to help them resist bending. Give your wheel every chance it can get. But if you just want the foolish looks of an 18" or 19" wheel with the lowest possible sidewall. Pay the piper one way or another. Either pay on the way in (buying the wheels) or pay on the way out (replacing the wheels). Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 225 * .4 = 90mm 90mm * (1in/25.4mm) = 3.54" 3.54" > 2" Yes I am nitpicking your approximation even though I agree with you. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLGTaru Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Underdog, your math never fails! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Nor does my picture whoring! I think that is the 10th time I've posted that picture... Does i winz teh prize?! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 ^ what about tarmac III? i think they are about the lightest 18" rota. Maybe a bit better for racing. Not all Rota's come in 5x114.3. Plus I really want that concave look They are Advan RS take offs. Getting black with red lip to match the rest of the car... Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLGTaru Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Still have been to busy, or has it been to lazy to take pics of my car on swifts with stock struts. It will happen eventually! Maybe I will surpass you on the number of times posting a single pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Not all Rota's come in 5x114.3. Plus I really want that concave look They are Advan RS take offs. Getting black with red lip to match the rest of the car... actually, I'm wrong. I meant the P1. w/red lip....5x114.3 http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 225 * .4 = 90mm 90mm * (1in/25.4mm) = 3.54" 3.54" > 2" Yes I am nitpicking your approximation even though I agree with you. Underdog...that's 3.54" on both the top and bottom (i.e. total sidewall height from the part touching the ground to the part near the fender). So divide that in half to get the amount of rubber, in height, between the wheel and the ground. Thanks for nitpicking though. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Underdog...that's 3.54" on both the top and bottom (i.e. total sidewall height from the part touching the ground to the part near the fender). So divide that in half to get the amount of rubber, in height, between the wheel and the ground. Thanks for nitpicking though. Joe Actually, that's incorrect. The 3.54" is the sidewall height, which would be doubled and added to the diameter of the wheel to get your unloaded diameter. Here's a reference for ya, note the very last paragraph on the page: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/tire2.htm The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 +1 3.54 x 2 = 7.08 7.08 + 18" rim = 25.08 in. (225/40/18 OD) http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp Back to quality...I think theerrrrrr grrrreeeeaat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 actually, I'm wrong. I meant the P1. w/red lip....5x114.3 http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=65 but that's +48 offset. I want the concave look: +30 http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=90_217_307_308&products_id=548 http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/v/newwheels/RotaG-Force/18x9RotaG-Force-FlatBlackRedLip/?g2_showId=55951 Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Actually, that's incorrect. The 3.54" is the sidewall height, which would be doubled and added to the diameter of the wheel to get your unloaded diameter. Here's a reference for ya, note the very last paragraph on the page: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/tire2.htm So I read this, pulled out my trusty ruler, looked at how tall 3.54" is, and said "No way in hell are my 215/45/17 tires having that much sidewall. I'm going to prove him wrong." At that point I grabbed that trusty ruler, walked down three flights of steps and about 100 yards out to my car and measured my sidewall at top and bottom (to compensate for where the weight is compressing). My prediction = ~1.8-1.9" at top Underdog's math = 3.54" What I got = ~2.5" at the top My total tire/wheel height is ~22" Obviously, Honda cheated me out of 2" of rubber and wheel...I'm writing to complain. Anyway, I don't know what's going on in this math class anymore. My point was that there is very little rubber between the wheel and road....I stand by that. And I ain't got no cad-y-lack 3.54" of sidewall to protect my rims Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Gotta love it when experimentation trumps theory. My numbers were intended solely as an estimate. This just goes to show you how inaccurate the XXX/XX-RXX system is in actually defining a tires geometry. Our conclusions remain harmonious: The Rota's are just as durable as any other wheel 1) stamped by the JWL, and 2) put through the same rigors of aggressive daily driving. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin.legacy Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 So I read this, pulled out my trusty ruler, looked at how tall 3.54" is, and said "No way in hell are my 215/45/17 tires having that much sidewall. I'm going to prove him wrong." At that point I grabbed that trusty ruler, walked down three flights of steps and about 100 yards out to my car and measured my sidewall at top and bottom (to compensate for where the weight is compressing). My prediction = ~1.8-1.9" at top Underdog's math = 3.54" What I got = ~2.5" at the top My total tire/wheel height is ~22" Obviously, Honda cheated me out of 2" of rubber and wheel...I'm writing to complain. Anyway, I don't know what's going on in this math class anymore. My point was that there is very little rubber between the wheel and road....I stand by that. And I ain't got no cad-y-lack 3.54" of sidewall to protect my rims Joe I thought his math was for a 225 40 but i could be wrong....didn't look back. Guess it doesn't really matter much. What also might come in to play is the tread life of your not so new tires. Granted you buy two different manufacturer tires with the same sizes on the side wall and the tires wont be exactly the same size. Tiz the nature of the beast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 ^ +1 3.54 was 225/40/18. 3.80 for 215/45/17 3.98 for 225/45/17 (my set up. doesn't appear to be that much. must be the # prior to mounting or just the fact the rim is overlapping part of the tire you can't see.) You guys suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLGTaru Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 I'm guessing the 17-inch point on a wheel is not where the visible part ends, but perhaps where the bead rests? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobE Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 I'm guessing the 17-inch point on a wheel is not where the visible part ends, but perhaps where the bead rests? thats where the extra inch is... the tire extends beyond the lip. underdog is right, although it might not be 100% accurate, i bet it is pretty damn close. http://newenglandsubarus.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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