Spec B Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 FWIW here is my LM-1 readings with the o2 in the same location as qikslvr only on the 9 o'clock side (passenger side). Readings are pretty smooth.. I am still working on scaling the Maf.. romraiderlog_20090228_100644.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Did you change the WB settings from the factory defaults? I finally got mine working with Romraider so I didn't want to go into the Programmer and start changing stuff around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Yeah..I believe these are the out of the box settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb2spn Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 LC-1 in rear O2 sensor/Invidia catted DP,works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 O2 should be before the cat...not after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb2spn Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 O2 should be before the cat...not after.Thats what everyone does(I know) but some times you have to go to the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 It would be very interesting to compare pre-cat and post-cat signals. My guess is that Subaru uses sensors in both locations because they read differently... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thats what everyone does(I know) but some times you have to go to the left. You are living on the edge! I too am interested in the differences in readings.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb2spn Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Car is being tune,I am sure you guys will see the logs when its done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 The readings post cat will tend to read leaner than actual when the cat is working. So, if there was an effect, it would be conservative. However when running at high MAF, the cat does not make much difference. Here is a WOT comparison that Airboy did between pre-cat (WBO2 in the downpipe bung) and post cat (WBO2 in exhaust pipe). I think the big difference below 3500 rpm has more to do with distance. http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5646/postcatafrcomparesq4.gif http://www.romraider.com/forum/post29652.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 mickey, thx for the graph. Even still there looks like a few points where the tailpipe WB reading looks leaner than the pre cat. Notice 5K - 5.5K "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Yes, I saw that, but I don't know if that's due to turbulence when the wastegate opened. Notice that the LC-1 reading in the downpipe bellmouth is oscillating. I have seen that in bellmouth readings. If it was accurate in the mid-band, I'm not sure why it wouldn't be accurate in the top end. I don't think automotive catalytic converters are really that effective at 100+ g/s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Hummm....I might have to consider moving my WB further down too. BTW...I have had my sensor in full time for about 15K miles so far. Any tell tale signs as to when they start to crap out.? My logs seem fair consistent. I figured I would just buy a new one every 30K or so. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 You don't need to move it. Just do 3 logs and do an interpolation across the scatter plot. Log WBO2 and front O2 sensor during cruise and high speed cruise, you should be able to plot a correlation. When this correlation starts to create more scatter, you know that one of the sensors is crapping out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Cool beans...thx "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enthusiast Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 You can get a new LC-1 for $169 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories___Innovate-Motorsports-LC-1-LC1-Wideband-o2-Sensor-Uego_W0QQitemZ200314071358QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQddiZ2811QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item200314071358&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1308 For those who don't like buying stuff from eBay, you can also get it from tunertools.com with a 5% discount if you use the romraider coupon code. The cheapest replacement sensor that I have found is amazon, $53.10 shipped Amazon.com: Bosch 17014 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive ImportImage has them for $167 good vendor. My mod list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Looks good. I didn't know importimage sold it for so cheap. BTW, I noticed that Amazon has dropped their price of the replacement sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enthusiast Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 So, the Bosch 17014 is the sensor replacement number? Good to know. I think mine is going out. I am going to put mine in the same place as collegemt. My mod list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 I just got home from testing a pre-release of RomRaider with PLX SM-AFR support. Also, you can make your own USB interface for it for around $25. http://www.romraider.com/forum/post44235.html (scroll to the end) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Nice work NSFW! Do you think your adapter would work with Cobbs ATR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Yes, it should work just fine with ATR. I haven't actually tried it but I'd be shocked if it didn't work. If it doesn't work with ATR, I can send you the utility that I wrote to test it. If my utility doesn't work, then you soldered something wrong, and I'll help you sort that out. If my utility works and ATR doesn't, call Cobb. (If Cobb can't help you, then you can sell your assembled and tested adapter to a RomRaider user and get back what you paid.) "My" adapter is actually a product that interfaces between two very well defined standards: USB (of course) and the "TTL serial" signaling that PLX uses. It's basically the same as the regular USB-serial adapters that you can buy at any computer shop, but the serial side works at a lower voltage and has a different connector. The only thing I contributed to the adapter was two solder joints and confirmation that it works like it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Anyone know if you can run longer initial wires on the LC-1? It has the nice thin wire, then changes to the monster thick wire and connector very early on. Hate to splice into it...also don't know if there's a max "cable run length" that you're not supposed to exceed on the sensor part.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb2spn Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Anyone know if you can run longer initial wires on the LC-1? It has the nice thin wire, then changes to the monster thick wire and connector very early on. Hate to splice into it...also don't know if there's a max "cable run length" that you're not supposed to exceed on the sensor part.. I recently extended my sensor wires so that I could install the sensor into the the second O2 location and the LC-1 inside the car,works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Thanks kb for the sensor wire info--will extend 4 ft or so I think. Location: So I finally took out my DP and am welding on a bung further away from bell mouth to try and stop erratic readings. Do you guys think 10" further down the pipe from the current bellmouth bung is enough (had wanted to mount it where I could still get to it in the engine bay since I don't install permanently) or should I go further away? I don't want to do all this for nothing. ;-0 I want to at least do somewhere in the vertical part of the downpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieBlkOut Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 So, the Bosch 17014 is the sensor replacement number? Good to know. I think mine is going out. I am going to put mine in the same place as collegemt. Where would that be? I just ordered a cat less DP and LC-1. Time for some serious tuning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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