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Whats your wideband solution?


PeterJMC

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The bung in the rear of the DP is a narrowband (not EGT)..it is used to skew the fuel trims at cruise. If you use that bung and remove the stock sensor the car will run uber rich during cruise. There is a way to remove the stock sensor and send a "fake" narrowband signal to the ECU, that way you won't need to add a new bung BUT the much easier solution is to add a bung..about 12"-18" away from the turbo and use it for your wideband.
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FWIW, I just installed my LM-1 yesterday..I used the grommet on the passenger side (small round one) and wired everything to my glovebox. I leave the LM-1 in the glovebox, and powered it via the cig lighter in my center arm rest with the power running under the dash and into the glovebox. When I want to log, I plug in the tactrix and the analog cable out of the LM-1.
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Spec, so your red wire had a cig lighter adapter? I bought mine used, so it didn't have that. Do you mind taking some pics of how you installed it, because this sound like the exact way I want mine installed.

 

Thanks,

Chad

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Yeah..the red wire had a cig lighter adapter, it plugs right in.

 

I will take some pics..either tonight or tomorrow. It was a pretty big PITA to get the wire in from the engine bay to the glove box..I had to actually remove the grommet and reinstall it. But now that it is complete it looks real clean IMO.

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Okay...not the best looking install in the world, but i think these pics might help.

 

1 - This is the o2 hookup and run against the chassis

 

CIMG3556.JPG.063f0de9520304343100e780641c3d28.JPG

 

2 - Here is the grommet I used

 

CIMG3555.JPG.1454a2ec7e00fa3daef36636e12fb93b.JPG

 

3 - LM-1 in glove box (wires still need to be tamed)

 

CIMG3562.JPG.15e8ae484a672071fb2e479c7bd589ca.JPG

 

4 - Power out of center armrest

CIMG3563.JPG.30389f39dc3657493628f67579605a85.JPG

 

Here is an engine bay pic for general reference..I used the grommet on the left of the photo.

 

CIMG3561.JPG.93ce229a80cd416cab89ca22426f404e.JPG

CIMG3554.JPG.9d181a0a8235bfa27b4d642c077c9b46.JPG

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I'm asking here because it seems the all knowing of things WB02 are here in this thread.

 

I need a tune, and soon to seriously bug infamous for it, and I need a temp WB solution just for the tune (I have a Cobb dp, btw). I will be removing it afterward (only to maybe redo it if I can get it to integrate to the HKS Camp II I'm seriously considering).

 

What is the easiest way to get this done? PM me if you like.

 

Thanks,

 

Shamar, dude...I neeeed to get on your calendar!

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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I'm asking here because it seems the all knowing of things WB02 are here in this thread.

 

I need a tune, and soon to seriously bug infamous for it, and I need a temp WB solution just for the tune (I have a Cobb dp, btw). I will be removing it afterward (only to maybe redo it if I can get it to integrate to the HKS Camp II I'm seriously considering).

 

What is the easiest way to get this done? PM me if you like.

 

Thanks,

 

Shamar, dude...I neeeed to get on your calendar!

Well I have my own wideband for road tuning and you have a Cobb dp with the bung in the bellmouth so you are find. Once I get done scaling your setup a wideband would just be your personal choice to keep an eye on things.

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The LC-1/LM-1 is recommended to be installed at the 3 o' clock position.

 

Wait, is mine installed wrong? I tried to approximate the JDM location (T7). :(

 

Reference below:

 

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r69/mickeyd2005/untitled1.gif

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I heard that a lot of LC-1's have died prematurely..that and there is a fairly complicated wiring and calibration procedure with the LC model. The LM-1 is a little more expensive, but the wiring is super simple and so is the initial calibration and of course, it is mobile.

 

I was also looking at the AEM..but the LM seemed like the better fit.

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Position: So could I be getting inaccurate readings using the 12 o'clock position on the bell mouth where Cobb puts their bung? I know Innovate seems to recommend against this (being too close to the turbo). Why I ask is I'm working hard on some AFR tuning and I keep getting slightly lean readings. This could be truly lean, but just wondering if the position might be causing problems.
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If your DP has a Divorced Wastegate, like my Invidia does then I could see inaccurate readings if you put it on the passenger side of the bellmouth. But if it doesn't I don't see why the 12 o'clock position would matter.
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+1

 

From what I have read, the position of the sensor (12 o'clock) will not skew your readings...assuming you are running a non divorced DP. What the bigger concern is is the heat and longevety of the sensor itself since it is so close to the turbo on the cobb design.

 

With that said, there are many, many folks running their O2 sensor on that spot with no o2 sensor problems.

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FWIW I ran my WB in a WRX last week, the position of the WB sensor was about half-way down the DP. The observed AFR was very smooth. It would show 11.2 for about 1/2 a sec, then 11.1 for half a sec, etc.....

 

In my car (COBB DP) it bounces around a lot more, 11.2, 10.8, 11.1, 11.0, 11.4 all within about 1/4 sec.

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