SBT Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Thought this was "post-install". Who cares on pre-install? It's just going into the trash heap anyway right? Sorry for my . - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 And re-reading your OP, it looks like either the wheel/tire, or the weight of the car was on the HBA, without the nut being set to spec, so that's where load torque on the bearings comes into play. If they're not tightened properly, then the bearings/races themselves can be damaged. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titoedge Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 (edited) you are correct, it was post install, but i never actually completed the hub switch out (just got too late and i didnt want to have any other issues that late) i still get to do the swap out this weekend. it's nice to learn all sorts of new things on my car, this thread was suber helpful, thanks to all EDIT: wailed on the 4-14mm bolts for way too long last night and only proceeded to remove 2, even with pb blaster and liquid wrench. I had car up on jacks as high as they would go, still couldn't get into the cramped space easily, with big breaker bar. air tools make a huge difference, I officially admitted defeat and had it towed to a local shop who knocked it out in an hour. I hate not finishing but didn't see the point in buying air tools just for this ~$300-400 entry level.  thanks again to all for this write up, I just was defeated by doing it with handtools alone. Edited June 1, 2013 by titoedge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 If you're pretty sure the "roaring" is the bearings, then I'd totally go ahead and do it. FWIW, my mechanic diagnosed it by lifting the car body (i.e. with the wheels dangling), using some kind of pole thing to depress the gas somewhat, and then using a screwdriver as a stethoscope up against the back of the hub. Not quite sure how a shade-tree mechanic would manage this, maybe with 4 jackstands, or 2 and a platform jack - being careful as hell not to end up as a Darwin Award finalist. I have read of several methods for diagnosing bad wheel bearings, and none of them seem to reliably diagnose a bad bearing 100% of the time: 1. check end play with dial indicator, should be < .002" 2. jack up wheel, hold at 12:00 and 6:00 and check for play 3. take a 1/2 hour drive on the freeway, then check hub temperatures with an IR thermometer, the hottest hub is the defective one 4. does noise increase when you turn left at speed? Then the bad bearing is on the left front side And then there is this super easy method, where you feel for roughness in the spring as you rotate the tire: [ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzB-V8CrSn8[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 FWIW, my mechanic said the failing Subaru bearings typically do not exhibit noticeable free play. And he was correct in his diagnosis of mine. I like the IR thermometer idea - yet another use for my new toy ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HalfastGT Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Appreciate all info. I decided to go with OEM. Picked it up off the internet for $125 with s/h and the new axle nut. Local dealers wanted $160 before tax... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titoedge Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 after all my work to get one wheel bearing switched out, and failed DIY attempt, it was determined that I did the wrong wheel. i was able to do the other wheel (right) today and car is silent again, at least as silent as an OBXT should be ;-) thanks again for write-up lesson, make sure to dble check before doing anywork, which wheel bearing needs replacing. i thought for sure it was the driver, but i was actually hearing the passenger side more clearly. now i know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55-mph Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 I just finished this job. On the face this is a very easy job: 5 Lugnut, 2 caliper bolts, 1 axle nut. But if like me you live in a place with a lot of roadsalt, these bolts can be a b!tch. The axle nut was very easy to take off, make sure you "bend" the little notch that keeps the nut from backing off. So the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, on my took about 30mins each. The bolts themselves were in pretty good shape, there was a ton of rust that make them move very very slowly. After I got the bolts out, the old hub was also terrible. The rust really did adhered the hub to the knuckle, to the point that I just started beating the old hub with a hammer. Eventually I just started wedging a screwdriver between the hub and the dust cover. When there was a little space open I doused it in WD40 to help break the "seal" between the hub and knuckle. After the old hub was off the whole thing when back together like a dream.  One last note, while beating the old hub, i bent the dust cover a little and on the test drive it rubbed and made some noise, but it was easy to bend back into proper place. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seymourless Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I just finished this job. On the face this is a very easy job: 5 Lugnut, 2 caliper bolts, 1 axle nut. But if like me you live in a place with a lot of roadsalt, these bolts can be a b!tch. The axle nut was very easy to take off, make sure you "bend" the little notch that keeps the nut from backing off. So the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, on my took about 30mins each. The bolts themselves were in pretty good shape, there was a ton of rust that make them move very very slowly. After I got the bolts out, the old hub was also terrible. The rust really did adhered the hub to the knuckle, to the point that I just started beating the old hub with a hammer. Eventually I just started wedging a screwdriver between the hub and the dust cover. When there was a little space open I doused it in WD40 to help break the "seal" between the hub and knuckle. After the old hub was off the whole thing when back together like a dream.  One last note, while beating the old hub, i bent the dust cover a little and on the test drive it rubbed and made some noise, but it was easy to bend back into proper place. Good Luck I replace my drivers side last weekend, only to find out that the passenger side was the bad one. i think the drivers side was going, as i noticed a decrease in sound overall.  i can only notice a difference/noise after i drive the car for over 10 minutes at speeds over 40. Also, the front end gets sloppy after the first 10 minutes. I am assuming the bearing gets sloppy when it reaches a certain temperature. i will post my findings when i change it out possibly this weekend. With power tools and a slide hammer it took me over 3 hours last time. I needed to use a chisel and a hammer to break the bearing free from the hub. There is a deceiving notch on the bearing which looks like a place to hit, but you need to hit right where the dust cover thing is placed. Dont worry if you bend the cover up a little, as long as it clears the rotor and everything when its time to re install. I will try to take a picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebe Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 (edited) Great thread! I replaced my left front wheel bearing last night. I had to resort to using a 3lb sledge and chisels/pry bar as my hub puller pulled the bad hub apart (much like a few posts earlier in the thread). The good news is that droning noise is noticeably less (I now think I have other wheel bearings that need replacing soon). The bad news is that I have a new noise. It's not as low pitched as the wheel bearing moaning (but not high pitched), is very cyclical (like I have a bad spot in the new bearing), and is most notable when coasting around 20-25mph or slower. Any ideas? Edited July 31, 2013 by Zebe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 tire noise you haven't heard when bearing was bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peener Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Great thread! I replaced my left front wheel bearing last night. I had to resort to using a 3lb sledge and chisels/pry bar as my hub puller pulled the bad hub apart (much like a few posts earlier in the thread). The good news is that droning noise is noticeably less (I now think I have other wheel bearings that need replacing soon). The bad news is that I have a new noise. It's not as low pitched as the wheel bearing moaning (but not high pitched), is very cyclical (like I have a bad spot in the new bearing), and is most notable when coasting around 20-25mph or slower. Any ideas? Sometimes the brake splash shield gets bent when you're wrestling with the assembly and rubs against the rotor. Is that a possibility? You can usually just reach around the tire when it's turned to its fullest extent and bend it with your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebe Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I re-inspected the entire left front wheel area, but did not find any obvious looking issues. The brake shield appeared to have adequate clearance. The drive shaft boots remained intact and the shaft had no noticeable play (as best I can tell by tugging on it in multiple directions and turning it buy hand). So, I move to the tires next, and when I try to swap the front and rear wheels, I notice that three of the five lug nuts on the left rear wheel were barely finger tight and the last two were mildly snug. I removed the wheel and inspected for any visible issues, but found everything to look okay. I reinstalled the wheel and re-torqued the lug nuts to 65 ft.-lb. (along with all lug nuts on all wheels). Noise is gone. This is the second time in the past few months where lug nuts have backed off. The first time, back in March, it was the front left wheel. This second time it was the rear left wheel. What are the chances that these loose lug nuts could be related to failing wheel bearings generating more heat than normal in the wheel causing the lug nuts to backoff over time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 You'll want to retorque those to 80-85 lb-ft. The FSM calls for 81.1 lb-ft for steel and aluminum wheels. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado1026 Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 anybody here heard of 1Aauto.com ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 anybody here heard of 1Aauto.com ? Yes, I bought brakes for a friends Volvo there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted September 15, 2013 I Donated Share Posted September 15, 2013 Thanks for the write up! I'll be tackling this this week. Anything in particular I should have on hand in case something gets fubar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 No, it's all on here. Make sure you use OEM on the fronts. Let the PB Blaster do its job. Use anti-seize when going back together. But I'm sure you know all that. Do you have 8mm bolts to back the rotors off ? put anti-seize on those bolt before you thread them into the rotor. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted September 16, 2013 I Donated Share Posted September 16, 2013 No, it's all on here. Make sure you use OEM on the fronts. Let the PB Blaster do its job. Use anti-seize when going back together. But I'm sure you know all that. Do you have 8mm bolts to back the rotors off ? put anti-seize on those bolt before you thread them into the rotor. I did front brakes not too long ago and had no problems getting the rotor off. Ordered a hub from subaru with the castle nut today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways the Seven Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Next project for me. Looks easy enough Sent from my SGH-T699 using Tapatalk 2 -Brandon 2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3 1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted September 28, 2013 I Donated Share Posted September 28, 2013 The only snag I ran into was getting the hub off after all the bolts were undone. Took a hammer and a pry bar about half an hour but other than that, cake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Let the PB Blaster have time to do it's thing. Go have a bite to eat and come back and try beating the hub out again, it will come out easier after the fluid has time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways the Seven Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Both Subaru of Plano and Sewell Subaru are quoting me $200+ for the bearing/hub assembly. Where are you guys getting it for ~$140? -Brandon 2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3 1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted September 30, 2013 I Donated Share Posted September 30, 2013 I got it for 155, just say what price you saw it for on Subarugenuineparts.com and they will get closer to that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Got both of mine from my dealership. They're accommodating if you ask. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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