rkl303 Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Dang sorry to hear you had such a bad experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Ya im used to it now. Ive never had to deal with rust so its a learning expirience. And when the jobs done it feels 10 times bettet. Of course getting there is 100 times more frustrating. Me and that breaker bar have been through alot. Nothing will ever feel the same again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKDKracker007 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 This thread was indispensable to me replacing my driver's rear hub yesterday. Took me an hour and a half, including sandwich break. My local NAPA got me an SKF hub assy, so far GTG! Some notes: **Spray everything and let it soak real good. I took my wheel off Friday, sprayed the bejeesus out of everything. Took wheel off again Monday morning, sprayed and let soak in before starting the repairs. This is crucial! Everythign came apart like butter, despite the Illinois winters. **Axle nut: There was no way I was going to be able to un-lock the nut with a punch/screwdriver, so I opted for an impact gun. With the wheel off and after soaking everything, I popped the center cap off, reinstalled wheel with 2 lug nuts, lowered car and applied E-brake, and impacted that sucker right off. Same idea for installing (or in my case, re-installing) the axle nut at the end. I used a torque wrench that tops out at 150lbs, and then gave it another quarter of a turn before staking the nut. **Hub puller = gotta be a necessity. I was worried it might pull the bearings apart but I lucked out. Where this method took me 2 minutes, I can guess that using a large rubber mallet, I would have been smacking the old hub for a long while. **E-brake assy: No fuss, no muss. All E-brake parts are attached to the backing plate that is held on by the hub. I was able to take the whole shebang off as one, pop out the hub with a ball-peen and some light smacking and drop the new hub in. This was soooo much easier than I envisioned. I can't remember the last time my car was this quiet (well, except for the exhaust...) Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Just a reminder to some with out tool or who don't feel like renting them After removing the bolts from the hub re-attach your old rotor backwards and a 2-3 lugs to secure it and hit the old rotor with a mini-sledge I have found this to be the fastest way to remove stuck hubs on most cars I work on worst case brak out the full size sledge instead of hand held. And don forget to use the bolts to remove the rotors that are stuck on the first time you remove them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Yes but make sure its a rotor you never intend to use again. I tried that first and broke mine. Didnt even budge the wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) On the rear do you have to take apart the emergency break to put the whole hub on? my book says torque spec is 140 ft-lbs is that right for a o5 gt on the axel nut? Edited January 31, 2012 by mustangendsley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 My OBXT's so loud that I could never hear a bearing whining. Would a badly failed bearing cause the car to vibrate at speed? The front passenger wheel has a little bit of in-out play in it, so that's definitely what's causing the vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Yes itll cause vibrations. Mine could be felt on the floor and made my rear view mirrior rattle. It literally feels like a brand new car once they are replaced though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Changed out my loose wheel bearing, and that wasn't the only source of my vibration. Oh well, the hunt continues. Anyway... To get the rusty, 130k mile old bearing out with the modest tools in my garage, I removed the CV axle, popped the ball joint back together, got under the car and beat on the inside of the bearing directly with a 3lb hand sledge and it came right out with a few hits. Then I reinstalled the CV axle and reassembled everything. The ball joint is easy to pop in and out with a floor jack, and of course the half shaft just takes a tug to remove. I think this is the way to do it! UPDATE: My vibration was being caused by a bad rear U-joint, replaced the entire driveshaft with a junkyard find. Edited May 30, 2012 by doctorbrody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBinNB Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Great walk through. My rear passenger wheel bearing is starting to go. I had question though. Are the 2007 SpecB rear wheel bearing/hub assembly the same as all other Legacy GT's? or is there something special about them? I've had one dealer tell me that you have to buy the hub and bearing seperately but I was under the assumption that they come as one piece? FredBeansParts shows the part number SKU: 28473AG00B. Any help clearifying this would be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Arrived at this thread trying to diagnose a noise I began to notice just a few weeks ago. I was thinking it was the winter tires because they are definitely noisy and it sounds like coarse-treaded tires on pavement. I put the all-seasons on Friday but am still hearing the noise so am guessing I'm headed for a repair of some sort. The noise isn't terribly noticeable but I try to always be aware of how the car is running so as to be able to anticipate needs and not end up with a mess. I can't even discern if it's in the front, rear, or under the middle of the car. The type of pavement doesn't seem to alter the noise and I don't perceive that acceleration or braking changes it other than sound frequency to speed ratio. From this description would you agree that wheel bearing is a likely culprit? I wish I was thinking, I could have tested for play when I had the car jacked to change the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Or you could jack it up yourself and check for wheel play now - that would probably give you more useful information than e-answers in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Or you could jack it up yourself and check for wheel play now - that would probably give you more useful information than e-answers in this case. Yup, planned for this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaloNHorns2002 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Dumb question... should I replace the hubs in pairs? I smacked a curb this past winter and have a feeling the "airplane" noies my car makes now is from the drivers-side wheel hub. I've been under there and everything *looks* ok... nothing obviously bent or out of place that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 no need to replace hubs in pairs - and you can't see the bearing from under the car or tell visually if it's bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaloNHorns2002 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Oh, I know that, what I meant by everything *looks* ok was that no other suspension parts looked damaged. I'm ordering the hub tomorrow, and crossing my fingers the old one will come off relatively easily! Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprzmegurl Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 nice write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Lazy subscribe/bump. I'm pretty sure the need for this is in my immediate future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Wow, glad this thread is still alive and kicking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 in my future for the fronts. I put my summer wheels on and still hear the rythmic hum. Had the rears done under warrenty around 85K. At 96k now. 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adhdrockstar Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I have a condition that other people have described. The steering wheel has excessive vibration at 45+mph. I am going to order new front hub/wheel bearings. My question however is, could a bad rear bearing cause the vibration in the steering wheel? I mean it sounds like a stupid question cause to me if the steering wheel is shaking then it has to be one of the front bearings (or at least that's where I am going to start.) I had the front wheels/tires rebalanced and that was not the issue. Just thought I would ask for some other opinions however. Thanks guys and nice write up! Sounds a lot easier than I was expecting. -Urban Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Hub bearings (Wheel bearing with an axle going through it) normally don't contain "play" when they're faulty.. You're thinking of a standard wheel bearing found on front and rear wheel drive cars (on the axle that isn't being driven) which are adjustable with the nut on the spindle. Not trying to be a asshole but what kind of "Tech" are you? Lube? LOL. This statement is 100% false. Mostly any bearing that is at the "failed" point will have play in it. Take for instance the infamous GM bolt-in hub and bearing assy that go bad all of the time. When they fail they will have play for sure. The longer they are driven while bad the more "play" they will have. At first a bearing will create a noise then soon after they will become loose. This is true with the press-in and bolt-in type wheel bearings. It is true to say the tapered bearings in most every early American cars/trucks and even European&Japanese cars/trucks can be tightened up to remove the play. Just stating the facts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Not trying to be a asshole but what kind of "Tech" are you? Lube? LOL. This statement is 100% false. Mostly any bearing that is at the "failed" point will have play in it. I'm not taking sides here because I don't know the answer but mine were making noise and had been for at least a month or 2. With my driving that could be upwards of 3000 miles or more. I jacked every wheel independently and tried to detect any extra movement. The only one that I thought even had the slightest play was one of the fronts but I couldn't tell if it was just because I was moving the steering linkage somehow. When the dealer had it up on the rack and ran it they found that it was both rears. Maybe I could have gone many more miles without a problem but I didn't want to take a chance have a catastrophic failure like my nephew did with his 70's VW bug, which I would guess has the older style bearings. He welded the hub to the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Well like I said it shouldn't have play at first, you should only hear a noise. The longer you drive on that bearing that is bad it will become lose. I did have a few that had noise for a week or two and were lose but I've also had a couple that werent lose right away. Just took some time driving on it. Note these weren't my cars but customers that didn't have the funds to replace the bearings. Once I hear a bearing noise I replace them as soon as possible. I have found that a bolt-in hub and bearing assy will become lose a lot faster than a press in type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) FWIW, I just ordered a front wheel bearing from Advance Auto Parts on-line. I found a promo code on the top of Honda-tech.com for 20% off. Paid $102 for it with tax, free shipping. It a Moog part. I installed a Moog rear a couple months back. Paid $114 at the store for that one. Here's the post I just put in the 4th gen forum in the what did you do to your 4th gen thread, Went to replace the right front hub today. Did a goggle search last week for a front wheel bearing for a 2005 subaru legacy, got to Advance Auto's web site. Thought I was on the page for front hubs but the first one that pops up on the page is a rear. I just found that out after I got the old one out. On the left side of the page is a little block that you can select front or rear. I also just found that out. But, I did have a 20% code from the top of the home page on http://www.honda-tech.com for the hub, and I plan to replace the right rear soon anyways. So I'll keep this one. When I replace the right rear I will have 4 new wheel bearings on the wagon. As it was, the old one came out pretty easy, the 3lb sledge did the trick. Fronts are easier then rears. Remember, PB Blaster is your friend. Edited June 26, 2012 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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