LittleBlueGT Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I used the Extra-S as is no additive. Fine so far shifts like Butter.... If you want to still use redline.... go ahead just trying to help with my experience. Is is the rear diff that may/may not benefit from the additive. Good to hear that your shifts are smooth. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackHole Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 The only thing I question is whether the LSD units they recommend the friction modifier for are of the VC type or the clutch-type. Friction modifier for clutch-type. VC-type are self contained with their own fluid. Kyle "BlackHole" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Friction modifier for clutch-type. VC-type are self contained with their own fluid. Of course. That's why Subaru has a dedicated OEM fluid for 04-06 STI rear diffs, which were clutch type. 07+ are Torsens, so regular gear oil will do in those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 That's what I figured. So to correct my earlier posts, the 75W90NS would work for the transmission and VC or Torsen rear diffs. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 I'm now on my second fill of the subaru extra-s gearlube. I wasn't expecting the shift qualit to change compared to my first fill but it actually improved. This didn't make sense to me till I went and measured the quantity of lube I was able to drain from the tranny. I was only able to pull 3.25 L while the capacity is a little over 3.5L. FWIW, the previous fill had a a cup or two of redline NS mixed in with it (undrained portion). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Are you putting straight Extra S in both the MT/front diff and rear diff too? No additives, etc? I have Redline on the shelf and Extra S on the way...will probably wait for Extra S to arrive. I'm now on my second fill of the subaru extra-s gearlube. I wasn't expecting the shift qualit to change compared to my first fill but it actually improved. This didn't make sense to me till I went and measured the quantity of lube I was able to drain from the tranny. I was only able to pull 3.25 L while the capacity is a little over 3.5L. FWIW, the previous fill had a a cup or two of redline NS mixed in with it (undrained portion). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Are you putting straight Extra S in both the MT/front diff and rear diff too? No additives, etc? I have Redline on the shelf and Extra S on the way...will probably wait for Extra S to arrive. No, I use Amsoil SVG in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby600 Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 What do you think about the Amsoil SVG? I want to switch to Amsoil, but do I use SVG or Long life? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 What do you think about the Amsoil SVG? I want to switch to Amsoil, but do I use SVG or Long life? Amsoil SVG is horrible in the tranny. Below freezing you can't shift up or down without double clutching. I only use it in the rear-dif. The magnet has been free of metal bits since I switched over to Amsoil SVG in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkl303 Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Anything wrong w/ using Extra-S in the rear diff? I did that and so far haven't seen any problems but I haven't taken my diff bolt out lately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Anyone come up with the P/N for the Extra-S quarts? SBT Turn In Concepts is selling the Extra-S in quart bottles. $20 per quart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 That's what I figured. So to correct my earlier posts, the 75W90NS would work for the transmission and VC or Torsen rear diffs. I have about 1,500 miles with Redline 75W-90NS in the transmission (5MT) and rear diff. Shifts very smooth, with a bit more "feel" to the syncros, definitely not grinding, rather you can feel the mechanical parts kind of lining up as they sync. I almost wonder if the tech adjusted my clutch (although I did not ask, nor did they bill or specify that they did make an adjustment) because the clutch action is super-smooth now... Taking off in 1st used to be very jumpy but now it's much much easier to modulate the clutch and get smooth shifting between all gears. Not sure why though... The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 How do you adjust the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 How do you adjust the clutch? Our clutches are non-adjustable. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 ^ Well, there you go... I guess he didn't adjust the clutch. I'm left wondering then, how could the new fluids make such a drastic improvement in the clutch action? I was under the impression it was a dry clutch. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 ^ Well, there you go... I guess he didn't adjust the clutch. I'm left wondering then, how could the new fluids make such a drastic improvement in the clutch action? I was under the impression it was a dry clutch. Possibly lubed the pedal shaft, the slave cylinder to throwout arm and less likely the transmission snout where the the TOB rides. Could have been an issue with air in the clutch system and that was bled. Other than that, no idea. Is it that the clutch is smoother or the shifts are smoother? SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Our clutches are non-adjustable. SBT Oh yea, except for the adjustable pedal. It is in vac pics. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I can post the whole thing if needed, it is not that hard. http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/littlebluegt/clutchpedaladj.jpg Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Oh yea, except for the adjustable pedal. It is in vac pics. Non-adjustable in the traditional sense of the slave cylinder/cable adjustment at the TOB arm which would be the one to control the actual clutch PP engagement point. I believe the adjustment you're referring to is for the clutch switch which deactivates the cruise control and closes the start circuit to enable the engine to start. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 ^^ No it's for pedal movement My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Non-adjustable in the traditional sense of the slave cylinder/cable adjustment at the TOB arm which would be the one to control the actual clutch PP engagement point. I believe the adjustment you're referring to is for the clutch switch which deactivates the cruise control and closes the start circuit to enable the engine to start. SBT The adjustment I am referring to is for the clutch engagement. My engagement was right at the floor when I first got my BullyClutch installed. I then had to adjust that rod (which goes right to the clutch master cylinder) to bring it up to the desired point. The point is: IT IS ADJUSTABLE! Maybe I should post this screenshot instead: http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/littlebluegt/clutchpedaladj-1.jpg Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Hmm... I guess I'll be buying some Extra-S gear oil next month! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Okay - we can agree to disagree. There's no adjustment at the slave cylinder (which has a finite throw with no adjustment). The adjustment you're referring to, is where in the pedal swing the slave cylinder "activates", not how far it opens and or closes. Yes, the engagement point could have been changed through that adjustment, which would make it feel different to the OP, but I thought he was referring to how "smooth" the pedal feel was in the engagement, which prompted my comments about lubing the components. More clear? SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Okay - we can agree to disagree. There's no adjustment at the slave cylinder (which has a finite throw with no adjustment). The adjustment you're referring to, is where in the pedal swing the slave cylinder "activates", not how far it opens and or closes. Yes, the engagement point could have been changed through that adjustment, which would make it feel different to the OP, but I thought he was referring to how "smooth" the pedal feel was in the engagement, which prompted my comments about lubing the components. More clear? SBT OK. I understand. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Possibly lubed the pedal shaft, the slave cylinder to throwout arm and less likely the transmission snout where the the TOB rides. Could have been an issue with air in the clutch system and that was bled. Other than that, no idea. Is it that the clutch is smoother or the shifts are smoother? SBT Okay, was a bit out of the loop today doing wedding prep stuff... The new transmission fluid definitely changed (for the better, IMO) the feel of the actual shift. As stated, there is more "feel" to the synchros, which may be accentuated by the Cobb STS. However, the clutch engagement has also improved, which is what prompted my adjustment comment. Taking off in first used to be hit-or-miss in that sometimes the clutch/flywheel/PP would kind of "bounce" making for a jumpy start, and sometimes it would be smooth. Now, it is smooth all the time and it is much easier to get smooth shifts without paying really close attention to rev matching, although I still do. Let me clarify that by "bounce" I mean in a rotation/torsion way, rather than the clutch/PP bouncing off the flywheel axially. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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