spect2k Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Can we clarify in this thread how to tell when rotors need to be turned or replaced. I know it was briefly mentioned at the beginning, but I have always just swapped out the rotors because I never can tell, so any tips on that could be useful. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 I'll let the experts chime in, but from what I've seen... If the rotors actually get slightly warped (not to be confused with deposits) you can have them turned (as long as they stay above acceptable thickness). The problem is you lose material/mass and now they're more proned to overheating. As far as replacing, once they get below acceptable thickness, or in extreme cases crack, then it's time to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 So what is considered acceptable thickness and how is it measured? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Measure with caliper. According to this post (I just searched for it) 30mm: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92201&highlight=rotor+thickness Note with stock setup, sometimes a little bit of surface at the very outer edge doesn't contact the pads so it can give a false thickness reading...make sure to measure further in where the pads are in contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Measure with caliper. According to this post (I just searched for it) 30mm: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92201&highlight=rotor+thickness Note with stock setup, sometimes a little bit of surface at the very outer edge doesn't contact the pads so it can give a false thickness reading...make sure to measure further in where the pads are in contact. Min thickness should be stamped on the rotor. As far as machining them down, I dont really see an issue with a street car. Track car MAYBE... Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 LGT fronts are 30mm and the wear limit is 28mm. At 45k miles I was only down to 29.7mm when my front stock pads were just needing replacement. --Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGT-Hank Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Rotor measurements should be done with a micrometer rather than a caliper as there is no way to measure only the contact surface with a caliper... Incidentally, a 0-1" micrometer is invaluable for more than just brake rotors. FWIW: The Porsche rotors are cast, then drilled. If you look at the holes in the picture provided, the holes have clean edges and on one of them, you can see a bit of flashing that hadn't been removed. The casting marks are beyond the path that the drill bit would have taken through the two rotor surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbwrx Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 so if i replace both the pads and rotors at the same time do i need to do a bed in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enthusiast Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Yes. My mod list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clocks Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) So I'm not looking for a performance rotor, so whats what wrong w cheap e-bay blank rotors?, Also what about rotors w brass that supposidly last longer w better thermal qualities http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQLegacyQQEBCQQBrake_DiscQQ20052009QQE35UPR7408.html ? And whats better for everyday driving (cold bite) Hawp HPS or Hawk Performance Ceramic? http://www.gtworx.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_26_52_177 Edited June 16, 2009 by clocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JER5EY Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 "Apply grease of anti-seize to the clips that hold the backing plate tabs" Awesome write-up/walkthough... thanks! Side notes: * The clips that came on my Hawk pads for the rear were not needed - I simply removed them, as they were not on my OEMs, either... * The clips on the front, however, must push the pad back off the rotor when the brakes are not applied so they don't contsantly ride the rotor. Be sure they are installed so they are OVER the OEM clips that you clean & reinstall. It makes reinstallation of the caliper a bit more difficult, as you must keep the new pads in the proper/flush position - the spring clip wants to push them off the rotors (and in the way of the caliper upon reintallation.) I added a bit of high-temp/brake grease here, as well, to keep the clips free & moving, as well as (hopefully) corrosion free for the life of the new pads (see picture). Lastly, I followed the "bedding" procedure outlined herein, and my rotors turned true & smooth, and feel (& look) great... Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris1 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 This is great thanks I'm going to attempt the rear pads & rotors on my 06 spec b does anyone know where I might find some Pics (visual learner) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 you'll be amazed at how easy it actually is once you get under there. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Great write up, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raleigh Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 thank you thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeytl Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I believe he's got enough "thanks" from everyone already... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinder Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 What "bed in" methode do people use/ reccommend for new rotors and pads. Rotors are slotted/ dimpled (mostly for looks) pads are RS4's. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M. Schneider Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 (edited) Recently completed a brake system up grade using OEM Subi front rotors, Hawk HPS pads F & R and Technifit solid F & R brake lines. http://www.techna-fit.com and Motul Fluid. (I run Michelin MXV4 tires on stock OB XT 7Jx17" wheels) $440.00 in parts all toll. The final stop is: The above components provide a pretty good outcome for the money, read value. The Outback XTs brake pedal character is largely upgraded from the stock Subaru non-linear mush. There's way more control of the Outback XT brakes now. The crummy OE components selected for production by Subaru is a crying shame; a little enhancement here goes a long way.. (#1) 2 new OEM front rotors, (#2) cut 2 rear rotors, (#3) soild brake line kit F & R, (#4) 2ltr. Motul brake fluid and (#5) Hawk HPS pads F & R. About $440.00 all toll in parts. The labor took myself the better part of a Saturday morning. To effectively bleed the system I used a DIY Motive power bleeder canister. http://www.motiveproducts.com The Motive power bleeder was about $125.00 with an assortment of system caps to fit various cars that I own. e.g., Audi, Porsche, VW 1. $110.00 ($55. ea for OEM OB XT rotors) 2. 25.00 3. 145.00 4 19.00 5 141.00 Edited June 20, 2010 by M. Schneider Cheers, Mike |`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged | Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Whenever you replace pads OR rotors, not both, but EITHER you should do a bed-in process. So no bed-in when you replace both? What if you replace pads and have the rotors turned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado1026 Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 after how many miles should brakes be changed? front and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 there is no "miles" marker really. You just have to check them and see where they are roughly and if they are low then change them. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 My mech. says i need two new calipers, says they are both sticking. depending on the level of "sticking"? would a repair kit be worth it before spending oddles of money on new calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Bueller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 if its just the pistons that are sticking then a repair kit should fix that problem. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fm2bird Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 We're obviously talking about "power brake" systems here. Doesn't the engine have to be running to bleed the brakes properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now