Car PC

[BMac1203]

PM sent Sebb

 

I cant believe that I STILL havent taken pics of my new (3rd Revision) setup. Maybe this will inspire me to become photogenic.

 

Sebb, are you having any issues with recovering the GPS signal upon resume after hibernation?

 

Im using the BU-353 and iG3, but if I have iG3 open when the system hibernates, when the system resumes at a later time, it's a toss-up whether or not the GPS Module is re-recognized.

 

Seems some guys have the prob, and some don't. It's supposedly a problem with either USB re-recognition (which I don't believe as everything else works fine) or the GPS signal not getting re-recognized, being a software (probably iG3) issue.

 

Haven't found a good "fix" for this yet.

[f1anatic]

I bought Centrafuse over the week-end but I have not been able to register for that machine since their stupid server didn't work.

 

I e-mailed tech support.

 

Sebbery, your skin looks awesome...I just wished it had red rather than blue...to match the rest of teh dashboard. And besides, your OBK is red.

[f1anatic]

PM sent Sebb

 

I cant believe that I STILL havent taken pics of my new (3rd Revision) setup. Maybe this will inspire me to become photogenic.

 

Sebb, are you having any issues with recovering the GPS signal upon resume after hibernation?

 

Im using the BU-353 and iG3, but if I have iG3 open when the system hibernates, when the system resumes at a later time, it's a toss-up whether or not the GPS Module is re-recognized.

 

Seems some guys have the prob, and some don't. It's supposedly a problem with either USB re-recognition (which I don't believe as everything else works fine) or the GPS signal not getting re-recognized, being a software (probably iG3) issue.

 

Haven't found a good "fix" for this yet.

 

The problem is not the IG3 but rather the BU-353 GPS. I came across it on mp3car .com and they just offered 2 solutions....one is some software called "hybernate" (spelling) and the other is switching to a serial connector GPS. It seems it is a problem with most GPS units but ours is notorious. We could try upgrading the drivers - i am still using the one that shipped with the box. If you find newer drivers, do you mind sharing ?

[BMac1203]

Nope, wouldn't mind at all. I'm using the original drivers as well.

 

I would prefer not switching GPS receivers (as mine is snuggly tucked away deep inside my dash), but it really does bother me, because it's really the ONE single thing that keeps my system from operating how I want. It's embarassing when I go to show the system to a friend, family, etc. and having to restart due to the GPS signal not updating and saying "This has never happened before...."

 

The other issue I have is that Im using a Ground Loop Isolator, and I think that it's killing my bass signal. I read that it tends to flatline the sound coming through it, and you really lose some clarity. So I might try removing that and hope that I dont have ground loop noise.

 

Last problem is that my CarPC sound isn't as loud as the CD is. When I hook my iPod up to the JazzyMod, it's louder than an average CD. But my CarPC, for some reason, is quieter than a CD. I would like to use it for all of my music purposes, but if I'm going 80mph with the windows down, I have to use a CD to really get the punch that I'm looking for.

 

It's weird, it's loud don't get me wrong, but past like Volume 20, it just distorts, doesn't really get any louder at all.

[f1anatic]

Actually I have the GLI from Jazzy and there is a noticeable drop in volume compared to CD

[BMac1203]

Actually I have the GLI from Jazzy and there is a noticeable drop in volume compared to CD

 

Agreed. My drop is very noticable and very not tolerable....

 

I can't have the windows down and hear the music from the CarPC. I mean, I can...but not loud.

[CombatCQB]

Hey guys, Just posted my install on MP3car:

 

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/106901-2005-legacy-gt-w-nano-itx-installed.html

 

Still sorting out some ground loop issues and haven't added my DVD drive yet. But I'm about to start another project to decode data from the driver info display. Keep you guys posted.

[f1anatic]

Fun with Centrafuse

 

Hi Reagan,

 

I have a few questions:

1) I was unable to register my Centrafuse to my Car PC. Trust me it is the same car PC but this time, checking the machine key, it has changed. Why ? This isn't the best method...if my machine ID changes every day or every other day it really means that I will be calling you 5 times before i get to register it. And if the machine key keeps changing...how does that affect my license. I wanna enter this number that you give me once and that is it. I also am unable to register online - even though I can surf the net from the car PC.

 

The new machine key (probably valid till I check again :-( )is

....................................

Centrafuse SE (Standard Edition) - ..................................................

 

 

2) I downloaded the Centrafuse software at work, from the work machine onto my USB Flash drive. the moment I tried to put it in my software folder on my home desktop pc, guess what...Norton Antivirus deleted it. It is apparently infected with something. And it is only Centrafuse, not something else. I downloaded CF1.20 off your server last Friday the 3rd when I also purchased the license. I am unhappy about this. What precisely did I install on my Car PC (which does not have anti virus)? Is it something you packaged ? Then why ? And how do I prevent the anti-virus on my home PC from deleting it automatically ? I have not had a virus in over 6 years and I am not about to start now.

 

 

Thanks.

 

That one shows PARTIAL delete because I yanked the flash drive out of the USB hub. The computer I s'pose is doing its job to be safe from Crabs, Chlamydia, Syphilis and other venereal diseases. But wtf mates...that looks like a pre-packaged threat.

[BMac1203]

Fun with Centrafuse

 

 

 

That one shows PARTIAL delete because I yanked the flash drive out of the USB hub. The computer I s'pose is doing its job to be safe from Crabs, Chlamydia, Syphilis and other venereal diseases. But wtf mates...that looks like a pre-packaged threat.

 

That's kinda scary that the file it was flagged for was "infostealer" hah.

 

I hope you get it working man. I installed mine, and when I had to register, I called their support and did it over the phone. Took a while, but didn't need a net connection or anything.

[deltabi]

Thread subscribed.

 

Thanks to all of you for the inspiring comments. I'm abandoning the idea of adding the OEM navigator to my Outback and, instead, install a carputer.

 

I've already made a few decisions about it (let me know if I'm doing something wrong!):

1) Installation must be removable (I want to be able to return my car "stock")

2) I want it looking as OEM as possibile (I'm counting on BMac1203's abilities for the bezel )

3) I'll use the aux-in port of the OEM HU to amplify the CarPC audio (see point 1)

4) I'm planning to put the CarPC under one of the front seats

5) The CarPC will be based on VIA, probably a Jetway F2 mobo with M2-ATX power supply and a Voom2 case

6) The front-end will be RoadRunner and I will use also iGuidance for the navi and a phone plugin (which is the best?)

7) I would like to add some software for monitoring the car parameters (OBD-II)like a trip computer usually does, but apart for the hardware, it is still not clear to me how good is the software in this area.

EDIT:

8) Monitor: obviously I want mount it in cubby's place, but the problem is which one? I know Xenarcs are the best but I'm really thinking about getting a transflective because I fear the others will simply not readable enough! Any comments on this subject ?

 

 

Thanks again for your comments and good luck for your carputer projects!

 

All the best.

[BMac1203]

deltabi,

 

First, I FINALLY responded to your PM. I've been receiving them perfectly fine from you, but I've just gotten so crazy busy this week that I haven't been replying at the speed that I should.

 

Furthermore, two things you may want to address.

 

Power Supplies:

 

Read-up a lot on PSU's. I had the m1-ATX psu previously, and hated it. Reason being that it could not survive the voltage loss at engine-crank. This means that when my keys went to "ACC" the computer would begin to boot, and when I turned the car to "ON/Start" the computer would cut-off and begin to boot again. It turned out that the m1-ATX does not have any fail-safes against this. The m2-ATX may, I did not personally read too much about that model.

 

IIRC, f1anatic has a Carnetix PSU, and I personally now run the Opus PSU (which has served me great).

 

Monitors / Screens:

 

First (speaking non-transflective), you have the choice of a lilliput 619/629 models or the xenarc 700tsv model. I personally went with the lilliput 629 model due to the cheaper cost.

 

You will read MANY posts on mp3car.com's forums about lilliputs breaking, but MOST of those are either the older 619 model (which IIRC has even been redesigned since those "break-age" posts). I realized that many of the users who damaged their lilliputs were EITHER not careful / did not follow walkthroughs for disassembly / or didn't know what they were doing. You will find MANY (like myself) who will tell you great stories of their "cheap" lilliputs functioning perfectly for months.

 

Xenarc's generally have less issues to begin with, have a few nice features, but are also higher cost. The Xenarc has a native setting for auto-on when it sees a power signal. The lilliput has this too, but it is a setting locked away, a "hack" if you will. It is simple to do with a few button-clicks of the remote to set this.

 

All in all, both monitors are pretty much the exact same to me (because bells and whistles don't impress me). One is cheaper, and one is more expensive. In terms of reliability, you just have to remember that Lilliput or Xenarc, neither monitor was meant to be disassembled and installed outside of its protective case. So if it works fine in its case, and doesn't when you disassemble it, you probably did something wrong yourself; the blame should not be put on the manufacturer for the reliability of their product (and when I say "you", I mean anyone in general). I honestly do not believe that either monitor is of higher/lesser quality, just that things happen and you're responsible if you're doing the work.

 

I'd vote for the lilliput. Save the money, be happy.

 

Transflective:

 

If you've got the money to swing it, then sure.

 

Do you use your sun-roof often? If you have it open a lot, you may want to look at these screens.

 

Personally, again, I didn't have the money at the time (and still do not). BUT, I am not as picky as most people are. Glare doesn't bother me, these things happen (have you ever watched TV on a Plasma screen in the daytime? There's crazy glare, but people continue to buy the TV's).

 

I ONLY need to be able to read my screen when I want to change the music playlist, read a direction via GPS (which has voice prompts for directions anyways), etc. 99% of the time, I don't need to clearly read my screen. So, if it doesn't bother you (like me), you're saving yourself around $400 by not buying this. Another thing to realize is that it's only better in the daylight. There are no pro's to having transflective at night-time. So, you're spending $400 for a screen that ONLY functions better for 50% of the day, the other time its just like the cheaper screens.

 

(Or, you can just close your sunroof in the day if you need to see your screen; works about 80%+ of the time for me.)

 

Conclusion:

 

Take my comments/reccommendations with a grain of salt. These are my personal opinions, not a reflection of actual facts/truths.

 

I tend to try to cut costs where I can, especially when the cost/benefit analysis just doesn't come out well.

[CombatCQB]

I've had no problems with my morex 80W surviving crank so far. It's one of the older models that has an external regulator block before feeding the main PSU. My shutdown controller senses both ACC and the IGN signal and controls the power button.

 

For LCD, I feel transflective is the way to go if I could afford it too. The alternative to transflective is high brightness. Daylight readable requires between 800-1200nits from what I've read. This brightness level will surely generate more heat than I'd like. Not to mention 600nits is the best we can buy on the market now. Transflective does not generate more heat so that's ideal IMO.

 

But one thing I'm going to try is to add a gel material between the touchscreen and the LCD. This eliminates a layer of air that reduces contrast and causes unnecessary refractions.

 

I'm running RoadRunner now and I like it a lot. I still need to make a new skin since I'm running Copilot which doesn't integrate in RR well. It'll take some time, the SW tweaking is more time consuming that the HW.

 

Finally, for car monitoring I'm using ecuExplorer and trying out ECUedit. Both will interface with SSM protocol with a tatrix cable. The is also a Java JDash app that looks very configurable.

[BMac1203]

I've had no problems with my morex 80W surviving crank so far. It's one of the older models that has an external regulator block before feeding the main PSU. My shutdown controller senses both ACC and the IGN signal and controls the power button.

 

For LCD, I feel transflective is the way to go if I could afford it too. The alternative to transflective is high brightness. Daylight readable requires between 800-1200nits from what I've read. This brightness level will surely generate more heat than I'd like. Not to mention 600nits is the best we can buy on the market now. Transflective does not generate more heat so that's ideal IMO.

 

But one thing I'm going to try is to add a gel material between the touchscreen and the LCD. This eliminates a layer of air that reduces contrast and causes unnecessary refractions.

 

I'm running RoadRunner now and I like it a lot. I still need to make a new skin since I'm running Copilot which doesn't integrate in RR well. It'll take some time, the SW tweaking is more time consuming that the HW.

 

Finally, for car monitoring I'm using ecuExplorer and trying out ECUedit. Both will interface with SSM protocol with a tatrix cable. The is also a Java JDash app that looks very configurable.

 

Nice input! We'll look forward to seeing your setup.

[BMac1203]

Hmmm....seb

 

You wanna send me both sets of your new files too? If you're willing, thanks!

 

Sorry to bother ya man, but I agree that they look better than the original.

[CombatCQB]

That looks really good so far. Would it make sense to us a lighter background to improve contrast during the day?

[Vsick]

Got a couple quick questions for the wagon guys or maybe the sedan guys can answer.

 

My plan is the following for wiring:

 

Run 1x 4 gauge wire from batter through passenger side firewall then somehow pass it along the door (will this be easy or will i have to remove some molding?) and run it either to the spare tire area or to one of the rear cubby's.

 

Then run a wire from the m2-ATX to power the screen.

Run usb extension/vga cables to the cubby area.

 

I think I have one more and that is the accessory line for the power supply. Where are you guys tapping in from for this?

 

Finally, for those who didn't purchase the clock relocation piece, anyone just hide it behind the head unit, or just place it in the coin area with out the aftermarket piece?

 

Looking to install everything next week.

 

Reason for 4 gauge is the potential of installing a amp in the future.

 

I am also undecided on the jazzy mod, since I am running everything directly from the battery, is the ground loop isolator neccessary? I read of follks getting low response when using it with a carpc.

[CombatCQB]

I have the sedan but the basics should be the same...

 

There is a wiring trench along the bottom edge of the doors. This trench exists on both sides of the car but it was practically empty on the passenger side. I ran a KVM cable on the passenger side with room to spare. You'll need to lift up the moulding that covers the edge of the carpet then also lift up the weathering strip. This will allow the carpet to lift up and expose the trench.

 

The only thing to look out for is not to tug too hard on the moulding. Too much force could cause the moulding to fold and leave a crease. Use a screwdriver to lift it from the underside.

[f1anatic]

Got a couple quick questions for the wagon guys or maybe the sedan guys can answer.

 

My plan is the following for wiring:

 

Run 1x 4 gauge wire from batter through passenger side firewall then somehow pass it along the door (will this be easy or will i have to remove some molding?) and run it either to the spare tire area or to one of the rear cubby's.

 

Then run a wire from the m2-ATX to power the screen.

Run usb extension/vga cables to the cubby area.

 

I think I have one more and that is the accessory line for the power supply. Where are you guys tapping in from for this?

 

Finally, for those who didn't purchase the clock relocation piece, anyone just hide it behind the head unit, or just place it in the coin area with out the aftermarket piece?

 

Looking to install everything next week.

 

Reason for 4 gauge is the potential of installing a amp in the future.

 

I am also undecided on the jazzy mod, since I am running everything directly from the battery, is the ground loop isolator neccessary? I read of follks getting low response when using it with a carpc.

 

I made my own clock relocation kit. Pictures at the begining of the thread.

 

Plan for the Ground Loop Isolator to be added easily at a later time if or when the sound quality will no longer correspond - in such fashion that you would not have to remove carpet, door trim, rear seats again.

[CombatCQB]

If you don't want the trip computer, you can unplug it altogether. The only side effect is that your airbag warning light will turn on because it can't display the passenger airbag status. I'm working on a way to defeat that, it looks to be pretty simple so far.

 

There are lots of places to tap the ACC line. The 12V socket is technically ACC, the trip meter has ACC on pin 9 and IGN on pin 8. ACC and IGN is also available on the radio harness. As long as you're not planning to draw a lot of current from these lines, anyone of these will work.

 

Actually, I made a clock relocation frame too for the ashtray but never used it. I should think about putting it up for sale.

[f1anatic]

I tell you what...I wouldn't wanna be cruising around with an Airbag Warning Light. The entire design group from Fuji Heavy Industries may wanna try and convince me otherwise...I am still gonna plug the ORIGINAL piece in...somewhere, somehow.

[deltabi]

[...] There are lots of places to tap the ACC line. The 12V socket is technically ACC, the trip meter has ACC on pin 9 and IGN on pin 8. [...]

 

CombatCQB,

Do you know, by chance, the complete pin-out of the trip computer connector and also the connector's specification?

As I'm planning to not relocate it and instead remove it (no airbag light inside it!) I would like to use a couple of signals which should be there: you already mentioned ACC e IGN, but there must also a signal coming from the external temperature sensor and probably the lights (ILL).

I would like to buy the corresponding female connector and bring those wires I'm interested in towards the carputer.

 

Thanks a lot!

[CombatCQB]

Ah, I forgot the newer cars don't have the airbag light.

 

My trip meter uses a 10 pin connector. I don't know what the proper mating socket will be, but I do have the pinouts. Try to verify it against your pinout before using though.

 

     ___
----|   |-----
| 1 2 3 4 5  |
| 6 7 8 9 10 |
--------------

viewed from the face of the connector

 

Pin 1 = +12V Illumination

Pin 2 = Illumination Override (active low)

Pin 3 = Airbag light 1

Pin 4 = Airbag light 2

Pin 5 = Serial data from combination meter

Pin 6 = GND

Pin 7 = Key (no wire/pin)

Pin 8 = +12V IGN

Pin 9 = +12V ACC

Pin 10 = +12V Battery (Always On)

 

Hope that helps.

[deltabi]

Ah, I forgot the newer cars don't have the airbag light.

 

My trip meter uses a 10 pin connector. I don't know what the proper mating socket will be, but I do have the pinouts. Try to verify it against your pinout before using though.

 

     ___
----|   |-----
| 1 2 3 4 5  |
| 6 7 8 9 10 |
--------------

viewed from the face of the connector

 

Pin 1 = +12V Illumination

Pin 2 = Illumination Override (active low)

Pin 3 = Airbag light 1

Pin 4 = Airbag light 2

Pin 5 = Serial data from combination meter

Pin 6 = GND

Pin 7 = Key (no wire/pin)

Pin 8 = +12V IGN

Pin 9 = +12V ACC

Pin 10 = +12V Battery (Always On)

 

Hope that helps.

 

So it looks like the info, esp. temperature, is not readily available but embedded in some sort of serial communications between the display and the combination meter.

That's a pity as I thought that one of the pins carried the temp sensor signal and it would be re-routable to the carpc.

Thanks anyway!

[NSFW]

If the "serial data" line uses standard RS-232 or TTL levels, it wouldn't be hard to pipe it into a CarPC. Figuring out the protocol and writing something to display it would still take some work though.

[CombatCQB]

If the "serial data" line uses standard RS-232 or TTL levels, it wouldn't be hard to pipe it into a CarPC. Figuring out the protocol and writing something to display it would still take some work though.

 

I've start some work on that. But it is not a strict EIA232 standard, it's a 12V level signal. I'm trying to identify more of the circuitry to see if there is some level translation for the on-board controller.