Leonardo Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Mine does this on ocassion but I think it is due to load...at least for me. If I accelerate fairly hard with just me and the wife no noise, but if I do the same with two more people in the car I get the growling noise. Welcome to the club! Grab your name badge in the next table. What mods does the wagon have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 22, 2007 Author Share Posted December 22, 2007 Mine still make the noise.... oh well..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallitek.com Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 After 3 months with the filled bushings the results are pretty good. I had no growl down to 30 degrees or so. But after some consistant 20 degree days of leaving my car outside at work the growl has returned somewhat. Maybe 25% back, nowhere near as loud as it used to be. Sean, How about a poly bushing kit for the entire rear suspension? I'd buy it. I'm close to buying a block of Delrin and have a local machine shop replace every bushing I can unbolt and take to them. lateral links, lower diff crossmember, and trailing arms. I met with my product manager Rob Arnold. We are going to look at the diff bushings for inserts. We will address the entire rear end and the driveline. I will let you know what solutions our product team comes up with. We are meeting next Friday. I'll post up next week. Sean S. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/Ad_banner02_700.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 22, 2007 Author Share Posted December 22, 2007 Awesome... thanks Sean... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallitek.com Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Then why did mine stop making the noise???? Have you made ANY changes to the car between when it made the noise, and after you noticed it stopped? -Sean S. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/emailbannerrallitek.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallitek.com Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Awesome... thanks Sean... No worries. We can move fairly quick on silicone products. I'll have lots more information after the product team meeting next Friday. -Sean S. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/Rallitek_banner_top717.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Same here. I haven't noticed it at all and I also switchd to Bilsteins. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Welcome to the club! Grab your name badge in the next table. What mods does the wagon have? Right now I just have an AP...but I am looking to go Stage 2 in the spring. But I said that last year too. But at least now I have the parts minus the gaskets so I am closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Thanks Sean!!! fatbastard, so you at stege 1? At least producing more power than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Yeah a little more but nothing crazy...just makes it a bit more driveable than stock. Stage two will be nice but I need to get some more cash together and get with Whitetiger for the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 In case these are useful: http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/wujek1976/diff.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/wujek1976/subframe.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Just waiting now for whatever Sean tells us from the meeting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Btw, to replace the rear bushings that go into subframe - does the subframe need to be removed? If so it would be a major pita. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 That is why I suggested an insert like the ones in the 5EAT tranny mount. Would be as simple as unbolting the nut, inserting bushing, and torquing down the nut. Repeat on second bushing. Done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 23, 2007 Author Share Posted December 23, 2007 Yeppers.... inserts would be nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 That is why I suggested an insert like the ones in the 5EAT tranny mount. Would be as simple as unbolting the nut, inserting bushing, and torquing down the nut. Repeat on second bushing. Done! May not be that simple. When I tried to take off the nuts, the whole stud ended up unscrewing out of the diff. I was still able to get it out, but a bit of a pain Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Just throwing something new on the table for you guys. I'll assume the 2004+ is for JDM years. 2004~Legacy Diff. Mount Support Bar http://www.machiii.net/suspension/beatrush/subaru.htm http://www.machiii.net/images/suspension/beatrush/Subaru/36.jpg Btw, I just found out that on JDM SpecB (and presumably GT) the piece is aluminum, not steel. Vimy and his SpecB - you got shafted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Btw, I just found out that on JDM SpecB (and presumably GT) the piece is aluminum, not steel. Vimy and his SpecB - you got shafted Is it for sure that that piece fits our cars? The piece in the pic above. I tried to loosen the hoizontal bolts with a breaker bar and couldn't get them to budge. I used a 3 foot extension, no luck. I think I will have to have it up on a hoist to get them loose. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I think the picture shows an Impreza (notice single exhaust). So, yeah, possibly the pictured part won't fit Legacy. Legacy of course has that part, but might have different dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallitek.com Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Just waiting now for whatever Sean tells us from the meeting! When I meet with the other engineers on our product development team, we will addrss the issue as a whole. We have each read through the thread, and I will post the results of our meeting ASAP. One question. You guys are sure it is not the rear sway bar touching aftermarket exhaust? Someone has factory exhaust, and factory rear sway bar, that has this noise. Correct? Thx, Sean S. www.RalliTEK.com http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/Ad_banner_GCSP01.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Factory exhaust and factory JDM rsb... and factory JDM SpecB suspension!! Engine stock. So you can say I am all stock, just JDM partially... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallitek.com Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 Factory exhaust and factory JDM rsb... and factory JDM SpecB suspension!! Engine stock. So you can say I am all stock, just JDM partially... That works for me. I will lead our product team engineers on this issue. Sean S. www.RalliTEK.com http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/Ad_Banner_05_sprgs.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 23, 2007 Author Share Posted December 23, 2007 I, too, Sean, am running stock struts, stock sways, and stock exhaust with H-techs... and I get the noise. It isn't any aftermarket issue.... other than the car is lowered.... and making more power (Stg. 2.5) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I, too, Sean, am running stock struts, stock sways, and stock exhaust with H-techs... and I get the noise. It isn't any aftermarket issue.... other than the car is lowered.... and making more power (Stg. 2.5) At this point I don't think its a power level thing other than the weakening of bushings over time. I can produce this noise at near no throttle taking a right hander sharply from a stop and I've already filled the rear mounts and done the rallitek race trans mount. I think its a combination of mounts but here is a wierd finding. We all know that it lightens up as the car warms and get more miles per drive cycle. Well, since the temps dropped I notice that the noise is Much worse when I don't use the blok heater overnight. When I use the block heater the noise isn't as bad in the AM. I've done this little experiment numerous times. I'm guessing some of the bushing in the front are also aiding in the noise. Filling the rears and doing the trans mount definately helped but I think the motor mounts would halp some too. How hard is it to do the lowers with the engine in the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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