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Growling/Clunking noise in rear while accelerating hard in 1st or 2nd ??


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few cold mornings in a row now....high 30's. don't notice it yet this season' date=' but again I'm on Bilsteins now...dunno if that's the diff for me or not.[/quote']

 

Could be helping it. The dealer told me that the noise was solely because of the struts. I don't think thats teh only culprit but I'm sure some stiffer valving helps.

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few cold mornings in a row now....high 30's. don't notice it yet this season' date=' but again I'm on Bilsteins now...dunno if that's the diff for me or not.[/quote']

 

interesting, on my car

 

firmer rear strut dampening = more growl

softer rear strut dampening = less growl

filled bushings = no growl:)

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The new bushings are on their way to my place. I will install them in November.

 

I did the 3M mod to my rear bushings, it helped, but did not get rid of the problem. (FWIW I could not find the 3M stuff, so I used another manufacturer, possibly it is not as good)

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The new bushings are on their way to my place. I will install them in November.

 

I did the 3M mod to my rear bushings, it helped, but did not get rid of the problem. (FWIW I could not find the 3M stuff, so I used another manufacturer, possibly it is not as good)

 

Please do a walkthru when you install these.

 

I would prefer a true permanent solution over the filled bushings, especially if I go beyond stage 2. I'm not surprised the growl is still there on a car with an upgraded turbo, thats assuming the issue gets worse the more torque the car has.

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Please do a walkthru when you install these.

 

I would prefer a true permanent solution over the filled bushings, especially if I go beyond stage 2. I'm not surprised the growl is still there on a car with an upgraded turbo, thats assuming the issue gets worse the more torque the car has.

 

Stage 2 I had around 280 tq at around 3000 rpm and it was easy to make the noise in the cold.

 

Now I have 350ish wtq at 3800 rpm and it is about as easy.

 

Truth is with the bigger turbo I don't use the low end grunt quite as much as I do the mid-range.

 

 

Part of the deal of me getting the bushings is a walk-through.

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few cold mornings in a row now....high 30's. don't notice it yet this season' date=' but again I'm on Bilsteins now...dunno if that's the diff for me or not.[/quote']

Same here. I haven't noticed it at all and I also switchd to Bilsteins.:spin:

Denial is your best friend

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  • 3 weeks later...

I heard this noise I think.

 

Engine/exahust all stock.

 

Suspension is OEM JDM SpecB. The car is perhaps 10 mm lower than stock USDM. Barely noticeable.

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FWIW I can't make the noise anymore, but it only in the 20s and 30s lately. Real cold is a comin.

 

I haven't really tried that hard either, but it is much better.

 

What did I do:

 

When my engine was out PDX installed some new engine mounts. Both Jarrad @ PDX and Tim Bailey said that new mounts are well worth it. Engine moves to much in there.

 

NVH has not changed, at least that I can notice.

 

Shift knock also seems to have been lessened.

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need to do this....

 

mine are REALLY bad

 

I filled my rear mounts when it was about 65 degrees out. It took a good month for the window weld to stiffen up and make a nice difference. Reason being, I didn't use an insert of PVC like others did to my window weld was in there pretty thick. If I did it again, I'd probably use the inserts or do it when its nice and warm out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mine is doing this now and it's in the 50's and 60's. Sometimes even in the low 70's.

 

Only on hard right turns from a stop with moderate throttle. Thought I had a bad rear diff.!!!

 

I think I saw those Group-N bushings in the STi web page. So other than filling the bushings there is no real solution?

http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/parts/imgs/bushs.jpg

http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/parts/f_sti_parts.html

 

I'm at Stg2 with JDM RSB and Tein Coilovers. For more info on my mods, go to the link bellow in the sig.

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I've got two GC style rear subframes here that I've been using to take measurements for these (GC and LGT use the same bushing). One of the big hold-ups in all of this is how to get the old bushings out. That's going to be the most difficult part of all this.

 

Even with a trick split design it's that teardown that's killing me.

 

Oh - did you find that the lower diff carrier bolts were put on by a gorilla when you did yours?

 

Use a welders torch to soften (kinda melt) them and then pry them out!:p

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Mine is doing this now and it's in the 50's and 60's. Sometimes even in the low 70's.

 

Only on hard right turns from a stop with moderate throttle. Thought I had a bad rear diff.!!!

 

I think I saw those Group-N bushings in the STi web page. So other than filling the bushings there is no real solution?

http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/parts/imgs/bushs.jpg

http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/parts/f_sti_parts.html

 

I'm at Stg2 with JDM RSB and Tein Coilovers. For more info on my mods, go to the link bellow in the sig.

 

 

I have Group-N engine mounts and that greatly reduced the problem.

 

FWIW I get into the -30s;)

 

I would seriously recommend getting these engine mounts to anyone.

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Bit if the driveline flex is at the other end, why do the engine mountshelp? So if the engine mounts are used in conjunction with the STi tranny mount for the 5MT and the Rallispec for the %eat, it should almost take it away but for what I've read, that is not the case.

 

Also, why when colder does it sound more if rubber becomes softer with heat, not the way arround. More power generated?

 

At least you didn't notice any NVH with the engine mounts but I wonder if I'll be that lucky!

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