franklin Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 " I just have no desire to ever see the underside of my car again" Wow was it that bad? I have to do the same job soon and your messing up my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 If you used stock gaskets.. I don't think you'll need to go back an retorque. Mine didn't need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Wow was it that bad? I have to do the same job soon and your messing up my mind. I've done several up pipe changes... and the first time is definatley 100% harder since you don't know the tricks. The first one I did took ~ 4 hours. I can do an up change in about 2-2.5 hours now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 3, 2006 Author Share Posted June 3, 2006 I've done several up pipe changes... and the first time is definatley 100% harder since you don't know the tricks. The first one I did took ~ 4 hours. I can do an up change in about 2-2.5 hours now..... Amen to MCCORRY!!!!!!!!! Don't be fooled by my outrageous comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aksnow7 Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 I didn't have any leaks but I sprayed every connection I took apart with soapy water after a few days to be sure. And yeah, I don't think you can reuse the triangle shaped heat shield. So have you started it yet? and the first time is definatley 100% harder since you don't know the tricks. +1 took me about 8 hours to do mine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 3, 2006 Author Share Posted June 3, 2006 I didn't have any leaks but I sprayed every connection I took apart with soapy water after a few days to be sure. And yeah, I don't think you can reuse the triangle shaped heat shield. So have you started it yet? +1 took me about 8 hours to do mine... I'm thinking what the soapy water does.... expose leaks by blowing bubbles around your engine bay??? I have the record nearly 24 hours and still messing around. I have this incredible rattle from what i think is the heat shield hitting the wastegate or the tranny case. It is horrible but only on downshift or rapid deceleration. I can't believe I might have to take the intercooler off and the heat shield off again. What a pain... here goes another couple of hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CobaltForge Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Try checking this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28085 I'm not sure which version of the Cobb Heatshield you have, but this might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Thanks ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Read that thread and my NEW cobb heat shield go bye bye!!! Stock was so much easier to put on!!! Still a royal pain but much easier than Cobb. It just isn't made for those contours. Too much bending and modling required from the cobb. I'll be sending it back right away. Stock heat shield is stealthy and wil draw less attention during smog sessions every four years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Congrats on the install! Certainly, it's a pain the first time around (too me 8 hours, plus jacking and spraying the night before - but mind you, this was 8 very relaxing and fun-filled hours that I spent hanging out with a couple of good friends of mine, and included an hour lunch and quite a bit of "jack-off" time - which itself included about an hour wasted due to needing to run to the local hardware store for deep sockets), but now that I've done it once and know what to look for, I don't imagine that it'll take me more than 2 hours, from jack up to jack down. Like many have said, this is more a "tedious" mod, the first time around, than truly mechanically difficult. In any case, yes, mine was leak-less from the start. If you would like to check for leaks, spraying down the various flanges with soapy water is a good way to troubleshoot. The other most commonly cited method is to simply use your hands to feel for leaks while the vehicle is running. You can expect about 5-minutes or so of working-time before any of the various flanges get so hot that they'll cause discomfort, provided that you start with a cold engine, don't "neutral-rev," and work your way "out" from the hottest parts to the cooler. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Now I need some serious help! I took the Cobb Heat Shield off and thought for sure my rattle grinding banging noise would for sure go away. IT DIDN"T!!! That's right. Pretty much same exact noise still there. It must be a clearance issue that has something to do with my install. I put the stock heat shield back in after trimming. Fit and finish is perfect and I HIGHLY doubt that is causing any of the problems. It is something much bigger and I'm afriad I've possibly damages something. Every time I downshift or deacclerate it makes this horrible sound. I tried something else. Quick turns back and forth. IT only makes the noise when I make sharp movements to the left. Right hand turns are no problem. Shart left hand turn or if I just jar the wheel to the left while driving it makes the same horrible noise. That puts to rest the idea that I could just be hearing the exhaust backfiring or something... Please help... any suggestions as to where to begin looking for the banging problem? Anyone else experience this? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 You should have about 1" clearance between your Cobb DP and your firewall. Check that first. Secondly... make sure all the heat shields down below are fastened all the way..... manifold, cross pipe, etc. Third... look up from below.... behind the passenger side rear contol arm... make sure there isn't anything near the front passenger half-shaft.... If you can snap a bunch of photos.. it might help us to try and spot your issue. Can you describe the noise a little better? Metal on metal? Knocking? Screeching? Grinding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronburgandy21 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 MAybe the sound is the socket you dropped and couldn't find in the bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 +1 to both of the last posts - as you can read in the other thread, 2006Specb122, I had the same thought as brother mccorry regarding the possibility that you're running into the Cobb DP/firewall problem. ---- And hey, just as an aside.... OK I finally got the UP bolted together. It was a freaking nightmare but I finally spotted two bolts in the very very back that were holdin the turbo to the engine. All-right, I don't wanna rag on ya, bro, but that ain't no-one else's fault but your own! Just about all instructions/Walk-Throughs and detailed threads clearly point out that these bolts are there! Sounds like you need a break, bro - take some time off from this project, clear your head, and re-group. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Cobb DP to the firewall.... OK..there is something I can look into. I was just stumped and had no idea what this weird noise is. Acceleration is very smooth and stronget than any car I've ever owned. (flashed to stage 2 earlier today Um.. but clearance from firewall. I'm going to go lay down under the car again. At what point is there less than 2" of clearance..what part of the Downpie are we talking about. I still don't understand the noise.. it is like it is coming in contact with something that is rotating but I didn't mess with suspension or tires or anything. The firewall thing is a possibility. I was going to just rip out the heat shield all together and try that even though it is on there so good and I got that last bolt and its all trimmed to fit. If I remove it it may never go back on. There isn't a lot of clearance from the stock heat shield to the DP .... but I don't think that is it.... I'll come back to see any responses to where on the firewall but maybe when I'm under there I'll see it differently.... thanks Lets keep the troubleshooting on your issue over here.... where it belongs.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 I couldn't agree more. I'm having tunnel vision can't think straignt and I'm about to run the car off a cliff. What noise will that make? Good advice. I really should take a break but I'm so close to being done and putting this behind me. This one noise is the only problem but its a big one. OK.. to descrive the nose better. It does sound like a knocking or grinding. Like something is geting hit repeatedly but only for a split second then it stops. It ONLY happens on big downshifts. (Meaning it must be related to engine speed/momentum. Right? When the car is moving but the engine slows down it makes the noise. It DOES NOT make the noise on wide open throtltle or any time during acceleration. Something interesting is that it also happens when I make a sharp left hand turn or movement. Right hand turns don't seem to bother it. I hope this helps thanks for the great tips thus far. If we can tackle this one I'm buying everyone dinner! oh and please don't say it could be that bolt/socket I dropped earlier today...I have no idea where that thing went and what it could be next to but it sure better not be the problem. I'll try snapping some photos and check the firewall. That's a great idea! Dare I ask what happens if it is the firewall problem????? If you say NO DP for me I'll sel lthe car! THANKS! +1 to both of the last posts - as you can read in the other thread, 2006Specb122, I had the same thought as brother mccorry regarding the possibility that you're running into the Cobb DP/firewall problem. ---- And hey, just as an aside.... All-right, I don't wanna rag on ya, bro, but that ain't no-one else's fault but your own! Just about all instructions/Walk-Throughs and detailed threads clearly point out that these bolts are there! Sounds like you need a break, bro - take some time off from this project, clear your head, and re-group. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 To answer your question... you want a gap between your downpipe and firewall.... The area I have seen them rub before is the vertical drop... from where it turns down at the outlet of the turbo.... to where it turns towards the back of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Hum...... No solutions I know of, if it does happen to be the DP-hit-firewall issue. However, I also believe that, so far, this also doesn't seem to be a "catastrophic" issue, either - just an annoyance. I'd be hesitant to wrap the DP; instead, I'd almost be tempted to use some type of high-temp "fabric" heat-shield material to trim up a "bumper" on the firewall, where such occasional contact may be made. Dunno.... any ideas, my good brothers and sisters? <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Pictures are coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 It is definately not the heat shield. Despite my best guess I wanted to be sure so I ripped of a perfectly installed heat shield and I wasn't surprised to hear the same exact noise. It is definately a grinding that happens EVERY time I downshift or make a sharp left turn. It is constant during my left turn until the wheel straightens out again. Definately griding...like it's hitting somethign that is rotationg???? Is it possible I damaged something while putting the car up and down from jack stands? Did I jack it up to high? Interesting that the sound is definately coming from the passenger side footwell area. Checked cleararnce around the DP and it looks like plenty of room to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 I'm wondering about this suggestion from mccorry "Third... look up from below.... behind the passenger side rear contol arm... make sure there isn't anything near the front passenger half-shaft...." Can you explain a little more how to check this out. I'm not sure what the front passenger half shaft is. passenger side rear control arm.. are you talkinga bout the back of the car near the rear wheels? Noise is definately coming from the front....passenger side foot area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 I'm wondering about this suggestion from mccorry "Third... look up from below.... behind the passenger side rear contol arm... make sure there isn't anything near the front passenger half-shaft...." Can you explain a little more how to check this out. I'm not sure what the front passenger half shaft is. passenger side rear control arm.. are you talkinga bout the back of the car near the rear wheels? Noise is definately coming from the front....passenger side foot area. No... I said it wrong.... The front right half shaft.... it is the drive shaft for the passenger side front wheel and goes from the tranny to the steering knuckle. The up pipe goes up just in front of it... and the down pipe goes back down just behind it...... In this picture.... you can see the tranny side of the shaft... it is green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Now that I understand that you are talking about in reference to the green drive shaft knuckle mabobber I am going to bet 99% something is hitting that and that I will need to replace my entire car. It sounded that bad!!! Anyone need a cheap spec b? I'm kinda excited to go find this green thing... be back soon... did I mention I need a new back as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 did I mention I need a new back as well? LOL... wait until you're 35 like me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 FIX FIX FIX FIX STUPID STUPID STUPID AM I a newbie? (don't answer that) A friend of mine stopped by to take a look after hearing about my huge problem! We've done full exaust systems on other cars together in the past so I was hoping that he might spot something I could not see. We were both sitting under there and decided to move from the very front to the very rear and check clearances all the way around everything that I had moved unbolted or installed. We had checked the drive shaft and other areas. I had taken of fall heat shields to get a better view of everything. We got down about haflway down the Down Pipe and found that it was very tight and not alot of clearance near one of the large black brackets under the car (near the passenger seating area.) As soon as I saw how limited the space was in there I realized my problem. I had paid too much attention to the UP assembly and DP to turbo assembly and I hadn't really checked anything below that point when mounting the Down Pipe. By prying the down pipe towards the driver side of the car with a breaker bar and loosening the ONE hanger bracket that the down pipe attaches to we were able to get about a half inch more movement out of the Down Pipe. Then I quickly tigtened the hanger bolt and now I had about a half inch of clearance between the Downpipe and the car. Took a test drive and MAGIC!!! No knock, grind, vibration noise when downshifting or taking left turns. Thanks to all of you who chimed in with your ideas. I'm sorry it was such a stupid mistake. Now I have to go through the trouble of putting all th heat shields back on!!! NICE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 NEW PROBLEM.......... As not to confuse the issues I am putting this in its own message box. I did about 10 test drives today with the new setup to try and sovle this banging/vibration noise that ended up to be the stupid down pipe alignment. However about the 7th trip I noticed a NEW noise. It was a high pitched whistle upon acceleration. (I know I've read all the the threads, it sounds like a gasket leak right?) I'm just confused as to why the first 6 test drives were perfect and now I hear this. The problem gets weird! After about the third acceleration on driving the whistle goes away completely. I drove it three seperate times and it did the same thing every time. Whistle like crazy the first two or three pulls then for the rest of the test drive NOTHING. My first guess is that once everything gets good and hot the leak is sealed and goes away? Plausible? Anyone else experience this lately? At this point I'm so dead I need to stop so I'm probably not going to investigage any further at this point. I do need to go back under the car and assemble all heat shields (turbo, exhaust manifold) and put them back on the car. I was also running with no top or bottom cover during the latest test runs but I dont know why that would give me the whistle sound... I don't think they are related. So as I'm under the car putting all the heat shields back on I'm going to check all my bolts again and torque them again and see if anythign is loose. After that a good clean up and then yet another test drive. GOOD NEWS! NO BROKEN BOLTS AT ALL~~~~~~!!!! I was pretty amazed and I am buying stock in PB blaster because it worked miracles!!!! I never stripped or busted one bolt for the 40 hours I've been working on this project. Thanks everyone for all your help and I hope I get this last whistle solved. Isn't it weird that it goes away after two or three pulls? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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