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My First Up Dp Ap Install Please Help


2006Specb122

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running on no sleep since forever. Wow the last time I went to bed was Thursday night. (I started the project Friday afternoon and I'm just now considering it done. (Weird noise or not) after I checked all bolts (not one was loose) and put all the shields back on... and covers.... I am going to bed.

 

NO test drives for me at 2 am. The neighbors probably already think I'm nuts been working with the light on and the garage open for two days non-stop.

 

I'll report tomorrow after I've driven her around a little. See what's up. And I have about 40 pictures coming soon. TOO TIRED TO POST THEM NOW.

 

Oh and yyes fraklin.. I agree... time to rest and check things later with fresh eyes, fresh mind, fresh body.

 

Good Night all!

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That last whistle does sound like what you proposed - something that seals-up when parts expand as they get hotter.

 

Typically, such a sound is associated with an UP leak, and most commonly, it's the manifold-to-UP area that should be checked.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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dude - you are becoming the new me.

You just need to sell your car to me since it has so many problems.

 

#1. You probably didn't tighten your bolts enough, or when you "pryed" on pipes with a breaker bar (WTF!?) you created a leak. 99 - 1 you'll have to do it all over again.

 

#2. You had a hot exhaust pipe TOUCHING something? I think you probably put the pipe on backwards. Take it off and swap ends. See what happens.

 

#3. Your considering leaving a howling leak on your brand new car? I'm taking away your mechanic's license. Please send it to the address in my profile.

 

These are all things that are not "lack of exiperience", but rather slop work items. Anytime I ever tried to get away with slop-work when I was young, my dad would make me do it all over again.

 

 

Edit: I'm not trying to be nasty - it just seems your rushing blindly with no concern with getting it 'right'.

I do wish you luck.

I'm pleasantly surprised... It was most certainly worth the couple bucks and 10 mins of my time.

CLICK HERE FOR THE HOGZAUST

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^ Unless, bro, you got my leak! :lol:

 

And yes, it was an UP leak - offered an "atypical presentation" but one which is, as I now understand, not unheard (no pun intended) of.

 

For my UP leak, it literally sounded like a post-turbo leak (i.e. "exhaust" leak). It never whistled, never screeched. I was also surprisingly able to reach target boost.

 

For 2006Specb122, I suspect a true, albeit minor, leak as he states that the sound goes away after the vehicle is warm - which is indicative of something "swelling," which is, as you know, quite common with rigid-UP installs. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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How loud is the whistle?

 

A leak will be a LOUD screach! A small, high pitched whistle is normal... that is the turbocharger you are hearing.... :D

 

 

mccorry,

 

I like your thinking and I pray to God that you are correct. The only weird part is that it goes away. It isn't really loud to me but it is noticeable above normal exhaust notes. Little higher pitched than everything else. It literally does the same thing every tiem I drive the car. I can very clearly hear this going on for the first two maybe three pulls through the gears. After that it is gone forever.

 

All bolts are tight. I did have a tougher time getting the UP to mate with the exhaust manifold than I would have liked. (I couldn't get the turbo charger completely loose. I bolted the manifolt back to the engine then I bolted the UP to the turbo, then I bolted the up to the exhaust manifold.

 

I can definately check there maybe soapy water and such. I wonder if the sound is created from normal reving while sitting in the driveway? I will check that next. I think if it was just an exhaust leak it should be present whether under actual load or just free reving. Right?

 

I can definately here the turbo more. I wish I knew for certain what the sound was. I don't want to start ripping apart gaskets and good seals just to find out it is something stupid like last time I had a noise.

 

 

 

dude - you are becoming the new me.

You just need to sell your car to me since it has so many problems.

35k cash and I'll do it today.

 

#1. You probably didn't tighten your bolts enough, or when you "pryed" on pipes with a breaker bar (WTF!?) you created a leak. 99 - 1 you'll have to do it all over again.

Well, believe me bolts are all tight enough. The noise started happening after one of my heat shield tests to see if the loud knocking earlier was heat shield related. To remove the heat shield all I did was move the Intercooler out of the way. During one of the sessions instead of removing the intercooler complately I just unbolted it and lifted it up while still connected to the large outlet house and clamp.

 

#2. You had a hot exhaust pipe TOUCHING something? I think you probably put the pipe on backwards. Take it off and swap ends. See what happens.

Nothing is on backwards. I did wonder what the difference is in down pipes between Manual Transmission and Automatic. Fitment?

 

#3. Your considering leaving a howling leak on your brand new car? I'm taking away your mechanic's license. Please send it to the address in my profile.

I'm not content with leaving it permanently but I can't spend every hour after hour working on the car. At some point you go insane.

 

These are all things that are not "lack of exiperience", but rather slop work items. Anytime I ever tried to get away with slop-work when I was young, my dad would make me do it all over again.

 

Absolutely not the case. I took more time than anyone on this install. I had help and I was careful with every single step throughout the entire process. If I had to do it all again I could probalby do it in under 3 hours. (Stil time consuming to get to certain bolts and things.

 

Edit: I'm not trying to be nasty - it just seems your rushing blindly with no concern with getting it 'right'.

I do wish you luck.

 

 

I put lots of RTV high temp copper gasket selaer on all sides of all gaskets. Spread it on there with a butter knife like I was frosting a cake. I've also checked all bolts. The thing should not be leaking.

 

 

 

That last whistle does sound like what you proposed - something that seals-up when parts expand as they get hotter.

 

Typically, such a sound is associated with an UP leak, and most commonly, it's the manifold-to-UP area that should be checked.

 

 

Yeah the UP to manifold is where I should probably start my search. I'm hoping a little soap and water lets me know what is up. It is weird that it goes away and yes it does make me think that is expanding and sealing up so it is a very small leak. LIke I said, next test is to see if it happens on reving while sitting in the garage.

For some reason I want to think it is turbo related, bov, something but the fact that it goes away makes me think it shouldn't be there.

 

 

For 2006Specb122, I suspect a true, albeit minor, leak as he states that the sound goes away after the vehicle is warm - which is indicative of something "swelling," which is, as you know, quite common with rigid-UP installs. :)

 

So is that why the flex UP are so popular! Yeah UP to manifold... will check there soon.

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I've completed several more test drives.

This sound is extremely consistant in how it behaves.

 

Every time I start the car it will make this whistle noise. It sounds like air is escaping from somewhere. After about 3 pulls through the gears it goes away entirely and I cannot ever get it to come back.

If I shut the car off for less than 60 seconds the noise does not come back.

Twice today I turned the car off and ran into the store for 5-10 minutes.

I returned to the car hopped in and the noise was there both times. It again, went away after approx. three pulls.

Does the engine really have enough time to cool down for 5-10 minutes while I run in the store to support the leak expansion theory? I'm no expert but I didnt' think that would be enough time for the parts to cool and let my leak reappear.

It is 90 degrees out and I parked in the sun. If anything things could get hotter with no air flow? maybe not....

 

 

 

 

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You say that you: 1st bolted the manafold to the engine 2nd You bolted the uppie to the turbo then 3rd You bolted the the bottom of the uppie to the exhaust. Correct? From what I have read you should finger tighten the uppie to the turbo and fully tighten the bottom of the uppie to the exhaust 1st then tighten the top of the uppie to the turbo.
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You say that you: 1st bolted the manafold to the engine 2nd You bolted the uppie to the turbo then 3rd You bolted the the bottom of the uppie to the exhaust. Correct? From what I have read you should finger tighten the uppie to the turbo and fully tighten the bottom of the uppie to the exhaust 1st then tighten the top of the uppie to the turbo.

 

You are correct... I was wrong.

 

I bolted the exhaust manifold on first and put it on pretty good.

Then I installed the UP. I put it in and just loosely put the nuts on the top portion where it attaches to the turbo. Then I tried to get the bottom portion of the up to mate correctly with the exhaust manifold.

 

There is where I had some difficulty until I got the turbo a little looser.

 

Then I was able to get the bolts in the two holes for the UP to manifold section.

 

 

 

Then I think I tightened everything after that. back and forth probably.

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you spent more time on it than anybody??

 

You don't know who you are talking to!! 6 hours of pure hell gutting an uppipe, just to poke a little tiny hole in it....

Then getting a new pipe with a warped flange, installing it. Can't figure it out. Uninstall. Reinstall. Uninstall. Get new pipe. Reinstall. It doesn't leak. Yay!

 

Let me know how you've spent more time on it than anybody after it's your 3rd install on a cold iowa december - on a bare concrete floor in an uninsulated garage with a temp no higher than 34-36*...and thats with 3 electric heaters, and a kerosence heater going full blast. Water froze near the doors....

 

 

That single incident is what has driven me to what i am today...

 

 

Good Luck though - check the Mani-lower flange. Just like what was mentioned - finger tight turbo to pipe, then lock down lower flange, and slooooowly tighten turbo studs (5) and both turbo bracket bolts (last)

I'm pleasantly surprised... It was most certainly worth the couple bucks and 10 mins of my time.

CLICK HERE FOR THE HOGZAUST

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Hogs - Betcha walked uphill both ways to school too? :lol:

 

 

 

You bet. Not to mention the 14 inches of snow on the ground made it really hard to see all the thumbtacks scattered in the road. Luckily though, my bare feet were so numb from the snow, i didn't feel the tacks stick me.

I'm pleasantly surprised... It was most certainly worth the couple bucks and 10 mins of my time.

CLICK HERE FOR THE HOGZAUST

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What do you guys think about the possibility of a vacuum line leak?

 

For some reason I remember reading somewhere about someone on this forum who accidentaly creatd a vacuum leak while they were working on their car. It bothered them forever until they finally discovered it.

 

Could this be?

 

I am jus trying to account for how the leak goes away and then comes back once the car has been off for a few minutes. It doesn't seem like the car could really cool down much in a few minutes but if it had something to do with pressure build up then maybe after the car is shot off the pressure releases after a few minutes then when I jump back in it gives me that same leak sound for the first couple of pulls till the pressure builds back up then it is gone unti next time.

 

What lines/where could I look for a leak of that nature? near the intercooler?

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I guess it's possible that you might have accidentally pulled "partially"-off one of those three vital hoses that forms the T-split directly under the TMIC, if you removed it for your install...

 

However, I'm not sure that it would present with the symptom that you're reporting. Most with this failure report decreased driveability, low/inconsistent boost, and/or erratic idle - and is not audible.

 

Are you pushing target boost?

 

Another area to check would be the TMIC connections themselves. Make sure all are tight (it's often easy to forget to tighten-down the worm-drive clamp on the driver's side) - and check to see that all gaskets are in-place.

 

But again, this would be atypical presentation - usually, such problems result in readily apparent boost issues, and the sound is much more audible under boost, and does not vary with how warm or cold the vehicle's hardware might be.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Is it easy to check boost with the AP?

I just got the AP VERY recently so I haven't had time to check that out.

 

I agree with everything you said. If it was a loose hose or clamp or something I wouldn't think it would be so consistant and go away after three pulls. (But then again I don't know all).

 

You mentioned it is easy to forget the worm-drive clamp.

Can you explain this? Perhaps I just don't know the terminology.

 

I would like to bet it has something to do with the intercooler/near the intercooler because I first hear the noise after I moved the intercooler to put on/off the heat shield. That was when If first noticed it. (I had of course removed the intercooler before without any problems but the first time I heard the noise the intercooler was the only thing I had messed with really.

 

So to answer your question about target boost. I simply don't know.

The car feels stronger than ever and pulls like crazy.

 

No drivability issues and it idles perfectly.

 

 

I guess it's possible that you might have accidentally pulled "partially"-off one of those three vital hoses that forms the T-split directly under the TMIC, if you removed it for your install...

 

However, I'm not sure that it would present with the symptom that you're reporting. Most with this failure report decreased driveability, low/inconsistent boost, and/or erratic idle - and is not audible.

 

Are you pushing target boost?

 

Another area to check would be the TMIC connections themselves. Make sure all are tight (it's often easy to forget to tighten-down the worm-drive clamp on the driver's side) - and check to see that all gaskets are in-place.

 

But again, this would be atypical presentation - usually, such problems result in readily apparent boost issues, and the sound is much more audible under boost, and does not vary with how warm or cold the vehicle's hardware might be.

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I took the intercooler off again today. Inspected it checked it out. Looked at all the gaskets. There may have been a small problem where the intercooler connects to the large hose on the driver side. I guess that would be the inlet. Anyways its the larger 3-4 inch diameter hose. Where it connects to the bottom was tough to get in their perfectly. It may not have been clamped on perfectly. I reinstalled it and checked the fit of the hose on the intercooler all the way around the tube. I crawled under the car and checked to make sure it was fully seated properly. I thought maybe this could be it.

 

Then again because the noise goes away it didn't make sense.

 

Sure enough with everything back on it made the same exact sound.

 

I'm really beginning to wonder if everythig is right and this sound I'm hearing may be normal for stage 2. The car runs strong. It idles great. Sound goes away after three pulls.

 

Does anyone ever have problems with the grahpite donut gasket?

 

I'm just trying to think what else it could be. I really don't understand how it goes away so quickly.

 

Also I'm going to start taking suggestions for someone locally in Northern California that I can take the car to and have it checked out. This is a big investment for me and I don't want to chance leaving something fouled up.

 

I want a VERY reputable place that knows Subaru's very well.

 

I'm guessing the dealership is out of the quesiton. I really don't want to go in there and advertise my mod list to them.

 

Anything you guys think of will help.

 

THANKS AGAIN!

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Sorry, bro - can't help you with the AP stuff. ;) I'm running off an ECUTek tune.

 

As for the doughnut, I don't think that's very likely....typically, that would result in more of a "routine exhaust-leak" type of noise, which, on our Boxers, would be akin to sounding like a mildly cam'ed musclecar with a head-cold. :lol: Think of your Borla, only louder. :)

 

If the noise goes away, my bet is still that it's a pre-tubo leak, at the UP flanges - most likely at the manifold-to-UP location.

 

Again, the recurring nature of the sound, as well as the fact that it goes away once hot (after parts have expanded), would suggest that it's a small enough breach that the expanding parts are causing the joint to mate tightly and seal the void - only to recur again when cold.

 

"Normal Stage II noises" typically includes more prominent turbo sounds in-cabin, however, these are consistently repetitive noises that can be linked totally to turbo spool, and should not vary, in so far as I know, depending on whether or not parts are hot.....

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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+1 on what Allen said.

 

The leak (if you have one...) is going to be pre-turbocharger.

 

You can re-snug 3 of the 5 nuts on the top up-pipe connection very easily.

I'd do that. Then... pull the plastic under cover off and snug all the manifold and flange connections you messed with.

 

Then.... just go enjoy the car. You're not going to hurt anything.... ;)

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Thanks guys... I was going to do the soapy water test this morning on the lower flange since that is the one I had a hard time getting to mate up. Figured if anywhere the leak is there. But then I realized that if I have a leak there then it would be difficult to rev the engine while watching for soapy water spatter. :)

 

Also any other thoughts on a local (within 50 miles) shop that can check this out with me/ for me.

 

I'll crawl under there and check the bolts AGAIN.

 

If it is a leak then there is a good chance the gasket has been blown out right?

I'm using OEM.. should i get another NEW gasket and try replacing it?

 

Ooohhh. doing that wil require I loosen all bolts to the point of nearly pulling off the UP to get the new gasket in... I guess I'll just inspect it really good.

 

Im taking you all to dinner when I get this all figured out...

 

And yes I need to donate to this wonderful place!

 

Thanks

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