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Changed the tranny n diff fluid...


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Thanks everyone for the replies to my questions, I really appreciate it. I initially wasn't going to ask any questions hoping to find a walk-through but no one has done one yet for this yet. Thank god for this site; everytime I visit I find the answers I'm looking for!

Bill

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I understand that part, I was referring to others' remarks about how much smoother the shifts are with Redline.

 

The difference will come in the next 50-60k miles. You'll also have the added confidence that you will be able to operate your car in desert conditions or artic cold and your diffs and tranny will function as designed. That's the advantage of synthetic lubricants.

 

Now that you have removed break in crud and replaced the gear lubricant with a stabile synthetic oil, you're good to go for a long, long time.

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When I changed to syn ATF (Mobil 1) in my last car, the shifts were smoother. However, I also had the tranny filter changed so fluid flow was no doubt improved as well. Perhaps someone here can let you know if the Subaru OEM AFT is partly or full syn.
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^ Go to synth for the the diffs and tranny. I understand the OEM AFT is at least semi-snyth but I mave a manual so I don't know for sure. Change the tranny filter.

 

thanks!...I wanna start collecting the fluids for my 30k coming up..

 

I'm having a hard time finding info on the specific grades for the diff and tranny....

In Taiwan now...:spin:
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  • 4 weeks later...

Anyone else had this problem with a LGT?

 

What about mixing with MT90?

 

I've used 75/90 NS in my 2.5RS and it worked well for a while. Then after about 10k miles or so the 1st gear grinds started to come back. You 02+03 WRX owners should know exactly what I'm talking about. If I were to do it again I'd use redline MT90 instead which is what I'll use in my GT when the time comes. I think the NS doesn't provide enough friction for those synchros and nothing sucks more than 1st gear grinds or grinds while quickly shifting. From reviews I've read the MT90 works better than the NS... my 2 cents
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  • 2 weeks later...

use redline; much better oil and worth the extra $$$; even after 5k miles it looks clean and none missing in the engine

 

 

For those of you who have bought Redline, is this a good deal?

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_powerpacks.asp?productID=56&subCategoryID=19

 

I am about to do a full fluid change. For the engine oil, I have ben using Mobile 1. Should I stick with it or start using redline?

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  • 1 month later...

I know I can look this up relatively quick --- but can somebody humor me and let me know how many quarts I'll need for the front and rear diffs?

 

I've got to do this soon.... And I'm going to need to get a torx bit set for this, aren't I?

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I know I can look this up relatively quick --- but can somebody humor me and let me know how many quarts I'll need for the front and rear diffs?

 

I've got to do this soon.... And I'm going to need to get a torx bit set for this, aren't I?

you sure are needy this morning. Its all in this very thread...:lol:

try post #64 for starters.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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  • 2 months later...

I change oil too often to pay for the redline engine oil.

It also bothers me that it isn't readily available in a major city.

 

Some places are charging upwards of 12 dollars a quart.

 

Just doesn't make sense.

 

I'm using castrol GTX 5W30 and changing about every 4-6k miles.

About 7-8 times per year.

 

It's about $10 per oil change as opposed to $50.

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this thread is about differential and transmission oil - not engine oil

 

btw, Redline oil for the engine etc - you can buy online for ~$7.5 per quart

 

 

I change oil too often to pay for the redline engine oil.

It also bothers me that it isn't readily available in a major city.

 

Some places are charging upwards of 12 dollars a quart.

 

Just doesn't make sense.

 

I'm using castrol GTX 5W30 and changing about every 4-6k miles.

About 7-8 times per year.

 

It's about $10 per oil change as opposed to $50.

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What up wif da Water Wetter?

 

 

That watter wetter goes in the rear diff.....

It keeps the gear at a constant temperature about 15 degrees cooler which means it will not break down as quickly.

 

You can get about 20k more miles out of it.

 

Read it on naosic or somewhere like that....

 

You don't do it?

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Guest *Jedimaster*
That watter wetter goes in the rear diff.....

It keeps the gear at a constant temperature about 15 degrees cooler which means it will not break down as quickly.

 

You can get about 20k more miles out of it.

 

Read it on naosic or somewhere like that....

 

You don't do it?

 

News to me- I tohught it was only for radiators.

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  • 7 months later...

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