Infosecdad Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 4 hours ago, Deltaking said: Multiply that by 14 and thats what I pay ea Would it be cheaper for one of us to ship it to you? What causes the 14x difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 So, you'll need to zoom on the image a little, sorry about that. BUT, RockAuto will ship worldwide, and usually for good rates. People in New Zealand I know buy from them because they are THAT GOOD on pricing and shipping. In this case, you can get an OE SUBARU VVT for $178 CAD + $98 CAD shipping to Cape Town. Don't know where you are exactly, so I just picked a random large city. Now, they do not have 2 x OE at the moment, but you can request they get more, and they will. I've done this before for parts they did not have in stock at the time. Either way, add in a second VVT as you should, to replace in pairs... Total should come to something like $460 CAD. Which is along the lines of $340 USD delivered. That is worlds away from $1400 USD each. The shipping time may offend your method of "I want this now", but for that level of savings, it seems like a no brainer, especially if yours aren't currently failing, and this is preventative. PS - Rock auto always has a 5% discount code you can find online for looking so, take maybe $10-12 out of that total. (No discount on shipping) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Strange this is the pricing I find on that site that's way cheaper? https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=10921AA080 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Sure, I can see that as well. I just would only use OE Subaru, so I was pointing that part out. It's at the bottom of the list. ($178) I wouldn't personally use a "Rostra" brand vvt. I've never even heard of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 (edited) If you are in a hurry, just pay for the express shipping. It'll get to SA in 6 days. BUT, you'd still have to wait on a second one to get to them. Just sayin. Or do as @Infosecdad suggests. Any of us would get in a set and ship them to you at your preferred speed. But, the shipping costs would be a lot higher. Rockauto must ship hundreds of packages a day, and has some of the best shipping I have ever seen from a supplier. It's shocking. Edited May 3 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Ah ok let me see what I can do, thanks a lot all for the assist on this one. I will add it to my list of replacement parts in the mean time, I need to first recover from the knocks I took over the last 2 months. Luckily I don't have an error just an irritation with the random jerk. So what I have left on my list is: VVT Solenoids x2 (May just clean out the originals and see if it helps in the meantime) IC Hose to Throttle body Optional thoughts of replacing: Radiator to All metal Radiator hose replacement General hose replacements 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 (edited) 37 minutes ago, Deltaking said: Optional thoughts of replacing: Radiator to All metal Don't know what your climate is like, but if you don't overheat, or run hotter than you should be with your driving style, then it's probably not worth the extra cash? I don't remember if Koyo or Denso is OE manufacturer, but I think Koyorad is. In any case, many here have used them, and they work well. I have one, am not afraid to romp on the car, and have zero heating issues. Personal opinion, but the difference in price between a good OE style radiator and a thick core all-aluminium one is better spend on heat sheilding and just preventing the engine bay from capturing heat. I'm willing to bet that given it's age, the foam rubber seals around your current rad have kicked the bucket, and aren't doing a great job of forcing air through, or preventing it from escaping around the sides.. This is literal dollars of new foam and some adhesive. UP turbo and DP blankets not only keep heat out of the engine bay, but help with spool. Some heat reflective metal tape in the right places prevents heat soaking the engine,TMIC,coolant lines, etc.... Do you, but preventing heat build up is better than trying to reject more heat into the atmosphere in my books. Also, the cooling fins on a fancy expensive solid ali raditator will break down at roughly the same rate as a simple one with plastic end tanks.... So, you either have to have it re-welded or replaced at about the same age... If my $120 rad works well for me, I'd rather replace that more often when it takes stone and road damage than a $450 Mishimoto. 37 minutes ago, Deltaking said: Radiator hose replacement Yes. Unless you know they are new, abosolutely. OE not needed at all. Contintenal, Dayco, Gates, all good producers. 37 minutes ago, Deltaking said: General hose replacements Again, it's a great idea, but beware that many are not available on the aftermarket unless you are willing to go to a silicon hose set. People have preferences, but I do not like silicon hoses for application like PCV etc... OE parts are quite expensive. So... price it out and see. I ended up installing an AOS which replaced a lot of the existing hoses (and added an AOS as a bonus) So, I only ended up with a handful of hoses left to replace with new Subaru OEM ones. Some I got a bit cranky about price, and am making my own with some 5/8" fuel safe hose and stainless steel elbows. Looks just as good, lasts as long, and is a fraction of the price. (I want to say that the RHS valve cover to PCV system hose was like $75 from Subaru? 2 x Stainless steel elbows = $3.80 + 1.5 feet of 5/8" Continental emissions safe hose ~$12. Done. Edited May 3 by KZJonny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 I like I like, turbo blanket added to list. I run 90 deg Celsius everyday all day no matter how I drive. My pure and main issue is the fact that a got the car secondhand and I know it wasn't taken care of as it should have been, the car was definitely in a good condition but its the small things like the VVTs which cost a bit which were not attended to. I was told by the owner that the intercooler was replaced (a year ago) but it looked like it was 10 years old with corrosion so I suspect it was secondhand hence I just replaced it again and have that one as a spare. I removed one of the VVTs a few moments ago and saw that it had some gasket sealant on it so I suspect they did something there as the sealant is over the entire surface which meets the block (Should have taken a photo). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 1 hour ago, Deltaking said: I removed one of the VVTs a few moments ago and saw that it had some gasket sealant on it so I suspect they did something there as the sealant is over the entire surface which meets the block (Should have taken a photo) Wonder if instead of installing new o-rings (which were probably knackered and seeping from age...) They instead decided that RTV was the solution. (It is not) A good multi pack of Viton o-rings is literal dollars on Amazon. If I can find an old OCV I can take measurements of either the rings themselves or the grooves. Or just get a mixer pack and use the ones that are goldilocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 That would be perfect, I can either 3D print those again or just get them from the store down the road depending on the ID and OD. I think in this case its going to be cheaper to buy (Locally) then to design and 3D print. I was thinking that I may as well just replace the fuel pump tomorrow since I have it, seems to be a fairly easy/quick job (Or am I fooling myself???). My tank is just above 1/4 from empty so thinking its the optimum time to just get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 One other great option for oem parts is partsouq.com. Massively discounted and worldwide 2-3 day shipping. Also, I think the NTK is the oem supplier for vvt actuators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 I just checked a guy selling a secondhand VVT it was for a forester but the part number was on the VVT so I don't know anymore... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Alright, who bought the last stock of ntk vv0045 on rockauto.com? Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 13 hours ago, rhino6303 said: Alright, who bought the last stock of ntk vv0045 on rockauto.com? Lol. Wasn't me! So replaced the fuel pump this morning car seems to have come back to life again... saw the C clip was not on the section where the springs were attached. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 So now I have this strange issue... not so much an issue but its strange. If the car stands overnight and I try to start it for the first time it takes a while before it starts. Noted I replaced the injectors and the fuel pump. I suspect that on first start it might be flooding the motor (Or delay with the pump maybe) but not sure as it only happens after the car stands for a good few hours. Happened yesterday and this morning. If it does it and I immediately switch the car off and back on again it doesn't happen again??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 That generally means the fuel isn't staying in the lines and is draining back toward the pump. If you let it sit a couple of hours, turn the key on, and wait for the full gauge sweep before starting (to give the pump time to refill the lines), does it start any faster? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 On 5/3/2024 at 2:47 PM, rhino6303 said: Also, I think the NTK is the oem supplier for vvt actuators. Cool. First I have heard of that. And I know others have had their issues with the company around here, but I have had zero issues with NGK/NTK stuff in the past, so that interesting in term of having a more reasonably priced option in future, if needing a pair of VVT actuators. Maybe not super surprising tho. Look like the NTK and OE are the only 'made in Japan' ones on the list at Rockauto... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 2 hours ago, Infosecdad said: That generally means the fuel isn't staying in the lines and is draining back toward the pump. If you let it sit a couple of hours, turn the key on, and wait for the full gauge sweep before starting (to give the pump time to refill the lines), does it start any faster? I will try this and see, will need to check later or tomorrow and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 Just tried it now, does the same thing. Then when I switch the car off and back on again it immediately starts up. Its not that the car doesn't start on first try its just that it takes twice as long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 The irony of it all is that the car runs GREAT! Take of from Gear1 great, acceleration is GREAT turbo starts to spool at 2500rpm and you can here her coming on and feel her right through to 5000rpm (Usually don't drive the car above 5500rpm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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