10mm vs 11mm oil pump with oil heater delete Type RA short block.

[nebula72]

Hi All

I'm getting ready to order parts for my build.  I'm going with a Type RA short block using the stock d25 heads, 1.1mm head gaskets and will be running an FP Blue turbo.  I decided to do the oil heater/cooler delete and I read that the delete can increase oil pressure.. If that is the case, should I just stick with the 10mm stock LGT oil pump or should I still go with the 11mm.

Thanks

Tom

[silverton]

If you're not increasing your rev range the 10mm is probably fine. for reference the 12mm oil pump is fitted to 2.0 dual avcs engines that rev to like 8,000 rpm or something like that.

Edited November 9, 2023 by silverton

[Max Capacity]

Back in the day, April 2012, when I needed a new oil pump, I just called Mike at https://azpinstalls.com/ and told him my setup, and asked him to send me what he would use.

It really is that simple. I don't know which pump he sent, but I drive that engine for over 150,000 trouble free miles.

[Enlight]

I've retained the oil cooler, am only running a VF52, and was advised by my tuner to upgrade to 11mm. I would ask your tuner, but I think 11mm is safe. Any reason you are giving up the oil heat exchanger? I may remove mine because I also have the STi gauge pack sandwich adapter and plan on installing an oil cooler down the line.

[nebula72]

I'm looking at skipping the oil heat exchanger because I will need to buy a new one as my current one is filled with metal turbo bearing material and they are pretty much impossible to clean. When seeing how much these things cost I remembered reading that some choose to delete the item for more clearance and better pressure.  Some claim that the oil actually runs cooler at running temperature and the piece actually functions as more a heater for startup.  I figured that maybe I can save a few hundred dollars while making it better.   

[Enlight]

So it will actually heat the oil when cold and cool the oil when it's hot, it will basically bring your oil to coolant temp. Not telling you to go one way or the other, just want you to make an informed decision. If you really do have an oil overheating problem, the stock oil cooler won't be enough and you will probably need a proper air-to-oil cooler.

Good idea not to put the old cooler on though

[Max Capacity]

Just saying, if you live in a cold climate, the stock oil cooler/heater may come in handy on colder day's. It will help keep moisture out of the oil system.

[KZJonny]

Yikes. $350.

Didn't realize they were that spendy! I do appreciate having one tho, living in a 'cool' climate. I put the GT away in the winter, soon actually, but as Max mentioned heating cold oil is a good thing. For me I like knowing I can get the oil up to temp faster when it's like 5*C in the morning and I need to get going to work. I don't think I'm seeing any significant wear for the light pedal driving I have to do to get across town and onto the highway, but it's peace of mind.

I've never seen my cooland temps get so high that it wouldn't still be cooling the oil when at operational/highway temps. How much is a good quality aftermarket air to oil heat exchanger with all the good fitting and lines put together? Serious question. If it's anywhere near the cost of the OE unit, it's probably still a good idea if for no other reason than wear prevention... You can always install a 2nd heat exchanger as well down the road if oil temps are a problem...

[Enlight]

Here's a new, OEM oil cooler on "fleaBay" for $150 shipped from Japan. Threadjacking, but I ordered a used HKS oil cooler from Yahoo Auctions that I will have flushed before installing. It's hammer price was less than $100 USD.

[nebula72]

Thanks for the link... If I decide to change my mind I will go ahead and get that one...  Still trying to figure out if I should go with the 11mm pump or stick with a 10mm.

[KZJonny]

On 11/10/2023 at 3:26 PM, Max Capacity said:

Back in the day, April 2012, when I needed a new oil pump, I just called Mike at https://azpinstalls.com/ and told him my setup, and asked him to send me what he would use.

It really is that simple. I don't know which pump he sent, but I drive that engine for over 150,000 trouble free miles.

In all seriousness dude, this is the best advice given yet. Talk to your builder/tuner shop that you are working with. You'll get plenty of theory from us here, and that's all well and good, but with a 450+ HP turbo getting slapped on, I assume there will be a long list of other mods included beyone a thicker head gasket on that RA block.

You really want to take rando internet advice when you're spending that kind of money on a build? Oil is pretty important.

[nebula72]

I just spoke with the tuner and will be scrapping the FP turbo as I don't want to dump more money into the fuel system at this time.  As per his recommendation we will either go stock or a with a 52.  Will go with the 10mm oil pump as the tuner basically said we can use either one (and I already ordered the 10mm).  As for the head gaskets as per his direction, I'm going to have headgames do a little combustion chamber work when they clean out my heads which will allow me to run OEM gaskets.   At this point I just want to get the car back up and running as soon as possible.  Next step is to find a good place to get a turbo.  Will prob make another post regarding new/rebuilt turbos and recommendations on where to buy.

Thanks so much for all of your input.

 

[Enlight]

Member @JmP6889928 can rebuild your old turbo, here's a thread with all his reviews. He does this as a service to the community and in his spare time. That being said, the turnaround can be quite quick depending on his schedule. If you would like his email I will PM it to you.

[nebula72]

Just sent him a PM.

If you can please send me his email in case he does not check his messages here often.

Thanks

 

[Enlight]

Email sent, that's def the way to go. I'll give him a heads up that he has an email incoming.

[nebula72]

Thanks so much!!

[KZJonny]

On 11/19/2023 at 11:00 AM, Enlight said:

Member @JmP6889928 can rebuild your old turbo, here's a thread with all his reviews. He does this as a service to the community and in his spare time. That being said, the turnaround can be quite quick depending on his schedule. If you would like his email I will PM it to you.

Dude! Dooooo it.

My JMP 'Custom" VF40 is awesome. With the inconel shaft and lightened compressor wheel.

It's not like, head-snapping-holy-mother kind of crazy. Small turbo after all, but you start boosting real fast, and it *will* pull to stock redline. The only other turbo I would consider for a street car personally at this point would be a JMP Custom VF52. Just for the little more top end, but with speed limits and all... it's not something I feel I'm missing out on.

[kzr750r1]

Went with 10mm stock oil pump on my last build. Had a 11mm on the first rebuild. But given this is a street car didn't think too much about it. Been running great.

Machine shop kept pushing a 12mm.

+ 1 for a JMP rebuild. VF40 from him is running great.

With the cold have been creeping to 17psi on long pulls.