ABS System Issues

[silverton]

10 hours ago, subaru-tech said:

So for some reason (actually by design) on these generation legacys (every subaru back to 1996 probably) when you get abs codes (just any trouble code at all), especially on automatics (transmission is irrelevant) it causes them to run terrible (depends on the code and the trouble symptoms) and they kick the fans on too. (the fans coming on and staying on, so long as your HVAC is not in a defrost mode and the AC is off, is 'secret code' that there is a DTC whether the light is triggered or not)

 

[TainoPapiChulo]

Thank you, lately it has been raining on the days I have off so I don’t want to mess with my electrical components. I will start doing continuity test today. I’m sure it’s what you guys are saying it is. 

[TainoPapiChulo]

I received 60 ohms between pins 6/14 on my OBD port.

On 5/7/2023 at 10:31 PM, subaru-tech said:

So for some reason on these generation legacys when you get abs codes, especially on automatics it causes them to run terrible and they kick the fans on too. Now on subarus there's 2 terminating resistors for the can network. One in the ecm and one in the vdc. You can use pins 6 and 14 of the dlc connector to.check the can network. You should get 60 ohms with everything plugged in, if you ger 120 ohms youve lost a terminating resistor. My guess by the symptoms your having is the vdc module took a dump and is messing with the can network. This is where I would start. 

 

[m sprank]

Pointing to the VDC.

[TainoPapiChulo]

Okay, when I’m diagnosing, I am using the wire terminal that connects to the abs, is that correct? Or do I use the pins from the ABS module.

[TainoPapiChulo]

16 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Pointing to the VDC.

Should I measure directly from module or connector?

[TainoPapiChulo]

Never mind I believe I understood the instructions. I was confused because it said “connector and terminal”. Here are my results from testing:

ABS Diagnosis.txt

[m sprank]

Still points to the same place.   

[TainoPapiChulo]

I popped my driver rear axle all the way and my car is running fine now. 

[TainoPapiChulo]

I will still have to fix that ABS module, my car did a little jolt and the flashing check engine, flashing traction control, flashing sport light disappeared.

My car still has the ABS codes though.

Edited May 10, 2023 by TainoPapiChulo

[KZJonny]

Progress at least?!

[TainoPapiChulo]

I guess so, haven’t driven it. Ordered some Amsoil 75W-90 Differential Fluid to fill the rear. Not sure how much fluid leaked. The fluid inside looked fine when I siphoned it.

[m sprank]

Siphon?  Why not pull the drain plug? I would investigate more too. As the rear end does not articulate, how did that axle pop out???  Car catch air?  Something abnormal occurred.

[TainoPapiChulo]

I replaced rear wheel bearings and believe they may have popped out when replacing them. I also went through some highway construction, driving too fast and came dow hard about 10 minutes prior to my brake lines popping. Crazy how everything happened all at once. I used a siphon because I wanted to make sure there was still fluid in the differential and it wasn’t completely destroyed. I also don’t own the right size tool to take the differential plug out. I do all my work at my buddy’s house who has every tool you could need, he was a tool dealer, but he lives about 2 hours away and currently not driving the Subaru.

[m sprank]

When it rains, it pours. 

[TainoPapiChulo]

Hey, I know it has been a while and recently began working on the car again in hopes to get it running by winter. About three months ago I cut about 3/4 of my finger off and had to have surgery, to reattach my tendon and nerve; so I obviously couldn’t work on the car. Before this happened, I bought a new ABS module and installed it. I also bled my brakes after. Cleared codes and no luck.
Today I hoped up the courage to work on the car again, battery was completely dead. Took it to autozone to have it recharged, they said battery was kaput. It was an Optima Yellowtop that I bought on January 2021, so I was honestly hoping it was the battery causing these issues after all. Luckily it was still under 3 year warranty so I got a new battery for free. Got home and installed the new battery, still no luck. I’m at a loss at this point and unsure where my next steps should be. So far New brake lines, ABS/VDCCM module, all new fuses, ground wires sanded at point of contact and reconnected, and new battery. I got these codes from my car doing the headlight and odometer trick C0045, C0052. Got these codes from my BlueDriver:

BlueDriver 10-25-2023.pdf

[m sprank]

Sorry to hear about the injury. 

 

It is running/driving, but you get all those codes? 

[TainoPapiChulo]

Thanks unfortunately cut the tendon and it retracted, had to have surgery to have it repaired.
Flashing check engine light, after 5 minutes car shuddered and ran fine, turned her off and back on again, she ran fine and she started misfiring after idling for about 3 minutes. ABS light and traction control light are on after replacing the ABS/VDCCM module. At a loss at what to do next. I’m willing to do what it takes but I need guidance.

[m sprank]

I have injured my hands plenty.  I have a large "ball" of scar tissue that is now negatively impacting my ability to use the left hand.  Had a Phillips head go into the palm via the webbing (thumb to index) probably 20 years ago.  I named the scar ball "my little guy" and gross out kids by moving it around. 

Had a pumpkin carving accident in middle school.  Sounds similar to your current situation. 

 

Is the car an automatic?

[TainoPapiChulo]

Yeah, the scar tissue is what is preventing me from bending my finger. Fragile things they are. 

yes, sadly my legacy is an automatic. 
 

So last week while I was working on the car, I had some girl come up to me and she told me she works as a part time mechanic. She immediately noticed that my power steering pump was leaking. I noticed this too, but didn’t think it would throw the codes I’ve been dealing with and was going to fix it later. Today, my new gaskets came in for my power steering pump so I installed them, turned my car over and she is whining horribly at the pump, but no longer leaking. Turn my wheel and it sounds horrible and car bogs down and almost turns off. Ordered a used OEM power steering pump with about 45k miles on it. Didn’t want to go aftermarket because they all suck but can’t afford a 500 brand new OEM, I also ordered new hoses which should come in tomorrow. I hope this fixes my problems.

[m sprank]

You have air in the power steering system.  Normal for Subies to leak at the o-ring at the pump.  Normally a new o-ring and an air bleed fixes it. 

 

With automatics. the abs is intertwined with the tcu.  So, things like a bad abs wheel sensor will make the car stall.  It becomes more "technical" in troubleshooting. 

[Max Capacity]

I hope you got that girl's name...might be someone you could build a relationship with...may have more benefits than just a mechanic...

[TainoPapiChulo]

I did replace all four wheel bearings and was careful with ABS sensors. I also did an impedance check on them, when troubleshooting and they all had positive readings. I will bleed the power steering pump, and go from there. I want to get her running for winter, Ohio can be tough without awd during the winter. My used Power Steering pump looks far better than my current one, but won’t replace unless needed. I don’t mind forking over the money for new ABS sensors, but it’s getting to the point where I’m just throwing money at it without results.

[m sprank]

Some of the codes appear to be related to the replacement of the ABS module.  IIrc you did that.  But otherwise, its all comm errors and power failures for the most part.  Which are indicative of wiring/grounds or a failed component (BIU?)  This one probably wont get solved via the interweb.  Any signs of rodent?

 

C0045  - I believe this to be specifically the left rear wheel sensor.
C0052 - Motor and motor relay
C0041 - Parameter Selection Error

B1101 - Battery/Power Supply malfunction
B1102 - Battery/Power Supply back up malfunction
B1103 - Ignition power failure
B1104 - ACC power failure
U1201 - Can HS counter abnormal
U1202 - CAN HS bus off
U1221 - CAN HS - ECM no receive data
U1223 - CAN HS - VDC/ABS no receive data
U1301 - CAN LS counter abnormal

B1500 - Keyless UART comm fail

 

[TainoPapiChulo]

No signs of a rodent, I have the whole front dash torn apart and have yet to see any signs. Is there any fuses or relays that I could replace? I replaced all the micro blade fuses in both the engine bay and driver compartment.

I’ve had electrical issues with the car before, previous owner had remote start, paid 1700 at Subaru of America in Chicago to repair. Grandmother lives in Chicago and left my car there, during the winter, and flew back home to California during college winter break. Asked her to start the car every once and a while and showed her how to use the remote start. One day she called saying she saw smoke coming from steering wheel and car wouldn’t start. They repaired all the wiring and car ran like new again. I’ve since lost the remote and planned on removing the whole unit all together.
When I pulled the cover under steering wheel, there are 100s of wires dangling multiple fuses and relays. I didn’t want to mess with it until I got a wiring diagram. I'm assuming Subaru of America ignored this and just fixed the fried wires because there is no way this is how OEM laid out their wires. I really don’t want to go back to a dealership because after viewing this wiring mess I know they just saw some college kid and took advantage of me. 1700 to fix a few wires is absurd. I could only imagine what they would charge me to fix this mess. I’ll send a picture.