ABS System Issues

[TainoPapiChulo]

This is the mess that dropped when I took the cover plate off.

[TainoPapiChulo]

Hey guys I was going through all the electrical connectors from the ECU and BIU and ran across a bright green connector, and noticed it was unplugged. I ran to the Internet to see what it was, and read that it was a self diagnostic plug. I connected it, and it did what it was supposed, the relays and fans went on and off. I then plugged my OBD scanner and got a P0140 code for my O2 sensors. The question I’m asking is this something that should be replaced or is it because the green connectors were connected? It would make sense for my misfires, and the gas smell I am getting. Please let me know.

[m sprank]

Most likely because you had the test mode connectors together.  If you had a failed O2 you would have codes prior.  But that rats nest, WTF?  I see a cat 5/6 cable (like a phone cable-flat and black) that does not belong, a cut wire that appears OEM and an entire loom I dont recognize.  I HATE when people who who dont understand electrical p[perform electrical work.  I realize this was not you.  AAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TainoPapiChulo]

Yeah I want to take care of it, but need an oem cable wiring system. I believe it’s for the remote start. I pulled the under cover and that mess dropped down. I’m going to trace all the wires connecting to the BIU and ECU. I Just spent 150 and bought some solid copper wire to redo all my grounds and some positive leads.

[TainoPapiChulo]

Hey Guys, I recently upgraded all my grounds. New transmission ground, battery ground, and engine straps with Ancor Marine grade 10 AWG Zinc Coated Pure Copper wire. I re-cleaned all ground points and found 3 more that I didn’t notice before, I also used pure copper washers for all the ground points. I plan on adding some new grounds (alternator, engine, and battery) but want to check how she runs before hand.
I also pulled my ECU and BIU, no burnt smell and they look clean inside. Sprayed electrical cleaner on pins and harness, while they were pulled apart. I can’t help but come to the conclusion that it is my remote start causing problems. I want to remove it all together and get rid of that rats nest once and for all. Especially since I lost the remote years ago. My issue is that I can’t seem to find a wiring diagram for the BIU, I found the model of the remote start (VIPER 5906V) and I’m sure their wires don’t match up with factory. I believe the issue is the BIU bypass that is installed with the remote start, (Directed Electronics 556U Universal Bypass), it may have fried and is causing all these CAN communications. I will post the wiring diagrams for both of these. Thank you guys for the help.

Directed Electronics 556U Universal Bypass Wiring Diagram.pdf Viper 5906V Remote Start Wiring Diagram.pdf

[TainoPapiChulo]

Guys, so after I replaced all the grounds disconnected the body integrated unit and engine control module. My car starts and immediately shuts off. I am getting misfire codes for all cylinders. I had my buddy help me, because I started seeing some light smoke and a gas smell and wanted to see where it was coming from. He started to push the gas pedal in the car and she started to idle as before, but still very rough.

I just watched a YouTube video on how to diagnose can communication issues using the OBD port. I measured battery voltage on ground ports 4,5 and positive port 16 and was within spec. I measured 59 ohms between port 6 and port 14 for can communication which is within spec. I also measured my can communication voltage, my high side at ground ports 4,5 and positive 6 was 2.6 volts. My can communication on low side (ground port 4,5 and positive port 14) was 2.4 volts. Everything was within spec.

I am also dropping battery voltage when I try to start my car. When my buddy got the car running, very roughly as before, I checked my battery voltage with alternator running and got 14 volts. 

My question now is where should I go from here? I am at a total loss and it’s getting depressing at this point. All I did was clean my grounds and upgrade detachable grounds with better wire. I also cleaned that rats nest that the previous owner left for me and spent the day re–soldering all the wires being careful to connect the right wires. Please help.

[m sprank]

Do you have any abs codes now?  I had a similar issue with an 05 LGT 5EAT.  Almost put the car out to pasture I was so frustrated.  Turned out the drivers front wheel bearing needed to be replaced.  The bearing was fine.  The embedded chip used by the ABS sensor had been damaged during a cv axle replacement.  Problems began shortly after the axle was replaced (unbeknownst to me).  But the car was un-drivable, all because of a chip you can not see or easily test. 

[TainoPapiChulo]

I replaced all the wheel bearings. Might’ve damaged the knuckles. Used a whole canister of oxy/acetylene and a big sludge hammer to get them out.

[TainoPapiChulo]

Hey guys, update time. I cleaned my rear wheel bearing magnetic ring. It was a pain because I couldn’t get my axles off without removing a bunch of other things, I got enough clearance to get a shop towel soaked in brake cleaner in between the axle ring and spun the wheel. Took a couple rags but it got clean. Must’ve got some anti-seize on the ring while installing them.
 

Still have misfire issues. Car starts and shuts right off. Did some research and started with the first part, the MAF sensor, I unplugged it and car ran very rough, but no misfires. Plugged her back in and shut off immediately. So I will be cleaning it. I though I had been cleaning it, but I was just cleaning the IAT sensor the whole time . I’ll keep y’all updated.