Clutch replacement 05 Legacy GT

[hateitorloveit]

Does anyone have an idea of the rough cost of a clutch replacement for an 05 Legacy GT Manual transmission? Mine is starting to slip and making a whirring noise. Took it to an AAMCO transmission shop and they quoted $900 to take it apart to see what's wrong but the cost would be credited towards any work they do. 

[Max Capacity]

Ask them if you can bring your own clutch kit and have them install it. 

It sounds like they are telling you, it's $900 labor to remove and install the transmission. Plus the cost of the clutch kit.

I have been using Spec 2+ clutch kit in my 05 GT wagon since back in 2008.  The Spec 2+ clutch is what Spec recommends for GT's. It had a light, almost stock pedal pressure but great holding force. It was easy to drive in traffic. 

Next you need to decide what FW you want. If yours still has the dual mass stock FW you'll want to put a single mass FW in there. I went with the Spec LWFW which has a replaceable friction surface, that surface is $80. When it needs replacing in another 90K or more miles. You'll need 8 FW bolts for the new FW. 07-09 GT's came with the SMFW.

There are a few different brands of clutch's that will work, but they all have a different pedal pressure feel. You can read some of the reviews. There is a thread for that on here.

I call Spec Clutch and order my parts direct from them. You talk to an expert and know what you're getting, they have great customer service. 

 

Oh, what fluid do you use in the 5mt ? Motul Gear 300 is the best, Amsoil Sever-gear gets great reviews too. I'm a Amsoil preferred member and get better pricing, One of the members on here is a Amsoil dealer too. I think he's, NORULZleggy

[hateitorloveit]

Appreciate the info!

[KZJonny]

Just to muddy the water, I had a chat with the guys at Spec as well, and they suggested the Stage 1 for me. I've got a JMP VF40 Custom turbo and full exhaust. So, no dyno numbers, but probably at least 260-270 whp. Haven't installed it yet, since the OE clutch is still holding on just fine after a summer of spirited driving, which surprised me.

GIve them a ring if you decide to go this route. Their customer service was great, so I'm really just giving them a +1. Which clutch you replace with is a personal choice. If you're not doing power mods, then OEM is probably juuuust fine. That said, going to a single mass flywheel is kinda nice as well, and now would be the time to do so, if you're thinking about it.

Edited December 13, 2022 by KZJonny

[Max Capacity]

I'll just say the Spec 2 clutch only lasted 50,000 miles at my 280whp.  The 2+ is the way to go. I used to talk to Jerramy at Spec, or our racing buddy Danny who would "Rep" for Spec at Drag Races. Danny had a blue Civic hatch like our yellow hatch.

[KZJonny]

To give the guys at Spec even more credit, the fellow I talked to specifically told me not to get a Stage 2. Something about the friction material not lasting long in a daily driver, since it is better suited to track use? I honestly forget the coversation details, but it had to do with the material specfically.

He recommended the Stage 1 or Stage 2+. (So this agress with you Max). Just saying for stock hp/torque, or even a fair little bit more, either will do the job well, according to Spec.

I went with Stage 1 mainly because I'd like as light a pedal feel as possible, (I know the clutch isn't the ONLY factor there...) and I were to do something stupid at some point, I prefer the idea of a fairly inexpensive, easily replaceble part being the weak link in my drivetrain. Since everything else is stock right now, I'd rather toast my clutch than say.... the trans.

Edited December 14, 2022 by KZJonny

[hateitorloveit]

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

To give the guys at Spec even more credit, the fellow I talked to specifically told me not to get a Stage 2. Something about the friction material not lasting long in a daily driver, since it is better suited to track use? I honestly forget the coversation details, but it had to do with the material specfically.

He recommended the Stage 1 or Stage 2+. (So this agress with you Max). Just saying for stock hp/torque, or even a fair little bit more, either will do the job well, according to Spec.

I went with Stage 1 mainly because I'd like as light a pedal feel as possible, (I know the clutch isn't the ONLY factor there...) and I were to do something stupid at some point, I prefer the idea of a fairly inexpensive, easily replaceble part being the weak link in my drivetrain. Since everything else is stock right now, I'd rather toast my clutch than say.... the trans.

Interesting, yeah I'm leaning towards things remaining as stock as possible as they've been since it was driven off the lot. I'll look into purchasing a Stage 1. Would you recommend to replace the flywheel or just get it resurfaced? There is a lot of noise coming from my clutch/flywheel assembly and they won't know until they take it apart. They suspect something is broken inside. 

[KZJonny]

If your flywheel is burned or damaged, you'd probably be better off swapping to a single mass flywheel. (SMFW) Our cars came with a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMFW).

It's either tricky or impossible to machine a DMFW, depending on the equipment the shop has and the level of expertise. And you can probably get a single for not a whole lot more than the price of machining your stock one. The Spec clutched discussed will require a SMFW. (08+-? WRX will fit.)

There will a slightly difference in how they drive, but most people seems to prefer the SM anyway. It can eliminate some of the "juddering" you get while engaging the clutch, particularly at low speeds. In contrast, it may may shift more sharp, since there isn't a layer of softer material sandwiched between the two main plates, like in a DMFW. This is all subjective, and a matter of personal taste.

You'll find out what's going on inside when they open it, but be prepared for it to be the clutch fork, or pivot, which are known to fail in our cars. Hopefully it is not the throwout bearing failing, which can cause damage to the transmission snout. (This is fixable with a specific kit, research as needed if it comes to that....)

If you're all stock, then an Exedy OE style clutch (OE clutch is made by Exedy, so I am told, and buying from aftermarket will likely be cheaper that from the Subaru dealer.) will be fine, or the equivalent WRX type if you choose to go to the SMFW. Spec Stage 1 would be a tasty upgrade, but more money than an OE type part.

[hateitorloveit]

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

If your flywheel is burned or damaged, you'd probably be better off swapping to a single mass flywheel. (SMFW) Our cars came with a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMFW).

It's either tricky or impossible to machine a DMFW, depending on the equipment the shop has and the level of expertise. And you can probably get a single for not a whole lot more than the price of machining your stock one. The Spec clutched discussed will require a SMFW. (08+-? WRX will fit.)

There will a slightly difference in how they drive, but most people seems to prefer the SM anyway. It can eliminate some of the "juddering" you get while engaging the clutch, particularly at low speeds. In contrast, it may may shift more sharp, since there isn't a layer of softer material sandwiched between the two main plates, like in a DMFW. This is all subjective, and a matter of personal taste.

You'll find out what's going on inside when they open it, but be prepared for it to be the clutch fork, or pivot, which are known to fail in our cars. Hopefully it is not the throwout bearing failing, which can cause damage to the transmission snout. (This is fixable with a specific kit, research as needed if it comes to that....)

If you're all stock, then an Exedy OE style clutch (OE clutch is made by Exedy, so I am told, and buying from aftermarket will likely be cheaper that from the Subaru dealer.) will be fine, or the equivalent WRX type if you choose to go to the SMFW. Spec Stage 1 would be a tasty upgrade, but more money than an OE type part.

Thoughts on these kits?

https://www.amazon.com/CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-FLYWHEEL-SUBARU-IMPREZA/dp/B01M5F1362/

https://www.amazon.com/ClutchMaxPRO-Performance-Chromoly-Flywheel-Compatible/dp/B08GGBG8WX/

 

Edited December 15, 2022 by hateitorloveit

[Max Capacity]

Have you looked around the web to see what pricing is from one of the trusted Import Shops. I'm not a fan of giving my money to one of the richest men on the planet. 

[KZJonny]

Not spending your dollars for you, but I'd trust the Exedy kit wherever you choose to get it.

I would have immediate reservations about any product that is critical to your car's function that forces people to write a review about it to "validate the warranty".

For what it will cost in labor to do the clutch/flywheel job, I'd probably feel a whole lot better knowing I wouldn't have to pay twice. (This is assuming you're paying a shop to do the work.)

Edited December 16, 2022 by KZJonny
Spelling. Every. Damn. Time.

[Max Capacity]

https://www.autohance.com/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit-fjk1001fw.html

 

I found that, by searching google. Verify that's the correct car, it should be. 

[hateitorloveit]

5 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

https://www.autohance.com/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit-fjk1001fw.html

 

I found that, by searching google. Verify that's the correct car, it should be. 

thanks for this, looks like a good kit.

[subisubisu]

I don't pay much mind to how much or how little money I think anyone else may have, but I have run across a few instances of counterfeit merchandise on Amazon in the past year or three in various merchandise categories, enough so that I would prefer to get critical performance things from confidence-inspiring specialists.

[subaru-tech]

Depending on hourly rate, book time is around 7 hours. If your going to do an exedy clutch, get one for a 06 wrx and get the 06 wrx flywheel. Get rid of the dual mass flywheel. You will need tonget new flywheel bolts as well. The dual mass flywheel is expensive.

[hateitorloveit]

5 minutes ago, subaru-tech said:

Depending on hourly rate, book time is around 7 hours. If your going to do an exedy clutch, get one for a 06 wrx and get the 06 wrx flywheel. Get rid of the dual mass flywheel. You will need tonget new flywheel bolts as well. The dual mass flywheel is expensive.

Any reason why you wouldn't select the OEM kit recommended above?

https://www.autohance.com/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit-fjk1001fw.html

It has the single mass flywheel included.

I'm currently being quoted at $1,100 by a local body shop and $1400 for the local Subaru dealer for the install without parts.

 

Edited December 16, 2022 by hateitorloveit

[hateitorloveit]

5 minutes ago, subisubisu said:

I don't pay much mind to how much or how little money I think anyone else may have, but I have run across a few instances of counterfeit merchandise on Amazon in the past year or three in various merchandise categories, enough so that I would prefer to get critical performance things from confidence-inspiring specialists.

makes sense, autohance seems to have good reviews although I've never used them.

[subaru-tech]

1 hour ago, hateitorloveit said:

Any reason why you wouldn't select the OEM kit recommended above?

https://www.autohance.com/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit-fjk1001fw.html

It has the single mass flywheel included.

I'm currently being quoted at $1,100 by a local body shop and $1400 for the local Subaru dealer for the install without parts.

 

That kit is perfectly fine. You'll notice a difference with the lighter flywheel too. This is the kit I went with because of the mods I have and am planning to do.

https://www.importimageracing.com/products/sb11-hdss-act-heavy-duty-street-sprung-clutch-kit-w-flywheel-subaru-wrx-2006-2021?currency=USD&variant=44929130131&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAy_CcBhBeEiwAcoMRHIFpXuGHepdiruxFBQ5uRSVnPcM8J4wdVSvtGSQXF2aBZcc4YM2aMRoCTAcQAvD_BwE

[Max Capacity]

importimageracing is one of the sites I was hoping to find, just didn't spend enough time looking, there are a few import vendors here in the USA that are trustworthy. 

I seem to recall they had a good price on NGK spark plugs too.

 

There is a Vendor forum on here you may want to look at too.

[hateitorloveit]

I've been reading that when removing the dual mass flywheel you need to remove the existing flywheel bolts with a Torx Plus T50 bit like this... http://www.mcmaster.com/#54305a34/=2r6vug

Does anyone have any experience locating a bit like this from another site?

I'll then place the 8 new flywheel bolts (part number 800410020) on the new flywheel. 

Referencing thread - https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1805288

 

[JohnDeere714]

You can get the torx bit from harbor freight. I believe the exedy oem smfw clutch kit I got came with new bolts. Now is also the time to get a new clutch fork and pivot too. 

[Max Capacity]

I got my T50+ from the local auto parts store back about 12 years ago.  It's still hanging in the shed.

[hateitorloveit]

5 hours ago, JohnDeere714 said:

You can get the torx bit from harbor freight. I believe the exedy oem smfw clutch kit I got came with new bolts. Now is also the time to get a new clutch fork and pivot too. 

Good point on replacing those parts as well while everything is out. Any site you would recommend to purchase them?

[Max Capacity]

Search the web for those parts and see if you can come up with a trusted vendor. One of the import shops that have been around for a while.  Hey, call Mike at www.AZPinstalls.com They have been repairing these cars and selling parts for many years. They are in NJ. I have bought from them. They have a real shop.

[hateitorloveit]

Looks like these are the parts...

Pivot Pin
https://parts.subaru.com/p/49239207/30537AA061.html

Clutch Fork
https://parts.subaru.com/p/49239192/30531AA180.html