JohnDeere714

Sketched this up on my own, the solid one year of high school shop class is finally starting to pay off. Still learning the ropes of Fusion360. As you can see I added holes for magnets. add holes to the back for zipties or let the cables fly?

Hey guys been a while since my last contribution to the community so I decided I might as well work on something that a lot of people probably have or haven't wished for. The Facebook group already got a peek. So if you're like me, you've probably gotten sick of dealing with that crap oem radio. Some of you 05/06 guys probably upgraded to the 07-09 radio for that sweet sweet aux port and some of you probably got sick of raiding junkyards for new $25 radios because the display keeps clonking out then decided to upgrade. Let's face it a lot of you went for the already expensive avo JDM climate controls and opted for a nice fancy Kenwood or Pioneer set up. Sure that's great and all but dang the factory spot kind of sucks for a fancy touch screen. So all this brings me here. By now we all came across those plug and play android radios that replace that upper dash cubby. There's a lot of benefits to it, like an easier to see location, apple carplay, gps, 4g and wifi. But the major downsize to a nice plug and play setup is that you have to leave the oem radio in place so you still have your climate controls, that's a lot of wasted real-estate that could've been used for something else and it's not ideally clean looking. Here's what I've been mocking up: So I've gotten inspiration from this design. It already uses half of the open space and can be utilized for a boost gauge and for you slightly more modified guys, an A/F gauge. There are some downfalls I've come across (no pics atm). 1. Fitment is TIGHT. A 52mm gauge needs to be forced in without trimming. Some won't even fit at all. 2. The walls on the top and bottom are thin which leads to weird finishes. 3. It's up to you to figure out how to fit it. No biggie as I got that covered. But when fitted there's still gaps that can be filled. So here we are now. I've been teaching myself how to model with Fusion 360 and I've mocked this up: As you can see it is very similar but it should fix the small issues I've had with the original design I found. (currently printing as I type) The face plate will be secured to the mount with magnets so you guys can easily access your gauges to make any modifications or add more stuff. Of course I'm still prototyping this design so changes can and will happen as I test fit things. To fill the bottom half of the double din slot in your avo climate controls I am planning on making a switch panel. This panel will consist of: 1. USB ports for your new android radio. 2. DCCD control slots for you 6 speed swapped guys 3. Any other things you guys wish to use To really help get this project moving I am needing a few things 1. Dimensions of the DCCD controls that I-wire provides. That would be the LED light strip and knobs. I do not know if you guys prefer the GD switches or not. 2. IDEAS to add or improve this. 3. A wiring solution that doesn't require tapping/splicing into the new radio harness. As always guys, I'll Try and update everyone when I get the project really moving.

You can get the torx bit from harbor freight. I believe the exedy oem smfw clutch kit I got came with new bolts. Now is also the time to get a new clutch fork and pivot too.

Exactly I’m happy with it now. I’m done dumping money in it now. Rather pay off student loans and get a down payment ready for a newish car.

My dumbass went with DNA. Before anyone gives me shit I got it for $150 and it was close by. Damn OEM midpipe was on the verge of falling off. It did drone a lot and had a bit of a tinny rasp to it at first but once it finally broken in it wasn't that bad. Sure it hangs a little lower than stock but it's the sound I like and when the shit mufflers finally blow out like everyone says they will i got my old nameless mufflers to put back on. Any one got sound clips of nameless 5 inch mufflers with a resonator delete?

Is there a good way to strip paint off the plastic housing? I goofed up and added way too much paint when blacking out the insides. Sanding is taking way too long than i would like. I was thinking brake fluid might do the trick. I don't want to melt the plastic.

You could always get sloppy and just run the cable out the fender and into the cabin via the doorway.

This had me baffled the other day. On the Facebook legacy groups someone mentioned they had a turbo replaced and had a hard time getting boost. Easy solution, check the boost pill from experience of new turbos don't usually come with them. User said pill was missing. After more talking someone else said there should be 2 pills one on the turbo side of the tee and the other on the wastegate side. Why would that be? I had to buy a set of turbo lines to replace the ones the new turbo came with since the shop never put the pill back in. This set of lines also had 2 different sized pills. Why would this be? The car makes about 13-15 pounds on one pill.

The cheapest and easiest solution is to get yourself a nice 07-09 Radio and have someone or yourself make an aux harness so you can use that sweet sweet aux button since the radio reception in these cars is utter dogshit. Only $25 from the pick n pull.

Dont forget the braces

If you can pm me an email address i can get you all the info i saved up when i made a prototype harness a long while back. I have a bunch of info saved. The hardest part would be is finding the actual 6 or 8 pin (I can't remember) plug that goes into the aux port. At minimum an i85 male is needed to get basic functionality but youd want the female too for SWC. If you made these from scratch you could possibly even offer them at a cheaper rate since AE64 ordered a made harness from subaru and then repinned the part that went into the radio.

Life would be a lot easier if subaru had a hole on top of the pinch or at least a better design

Just found out a loose pinch bolt was the source of my clunking. What you want to do is absolutely soak that pinchbolt in penetrating oil and add some moderate heat with a torch. I would recommend using a 3/8 impact on a low setting to help knock the rust loose, dont go balls to the wall. You can try just getting away with a ratchet. Now for the balljoint. If its factory, the threads are 9 times out of 10 going to be fucked no matter what. Threads on both of mine rounded out taking the castle nut. Do not take the castle nut off!!!! Jam a chisle into the knuckle to loosen up the pinch on the ball joint and get a nice big hammer and a metal pipe or some sort of long metal thing and go to town on that control arm. Stick a block of wood under the brake rotor to keepthe hub from moving. With enough pounsing on the control arm the ball joinh should pop out. When installing the new ball joint remember that anti seize is your best friend.

@k00laid83 You're products appear to be top tier quality on the market right now! Do you have any plans on expanding your store to include other legacy products? I'm still looking for someone who makes aux transplant harnesses so i can finally wire in the new center console thats been sitting in my basement for over a year now.

if you got small enough hands or are really goot at contorting yourself there is a little grommet behind the driver side fender. Not the main harness but just behind it. Thats what I tapped into for a boost reference line. Theres grommet kits you can use that allow wires to pass through if you dont want to cut a hole in it.

In the process of completely blacking out headlights and adding switch back turn signals. While also diagnosing a bad knock that likes to occur when turning the wheel a few degrees. Perrin endlinks are as tight as can be so Im assuming the strut shat the bed after changing out the cv.

Good deal. It's just my ocd talking and the fear of messing up

Damn i was hoping that you didn't hace to drill additional holes into my chassis

Yeah I got blasted on facebook groups for suggesting that the va wrx swap is would be a cost effective. I guess since its split case and it doesn't come off an sti it's instantly junk. I can't remember the company but it was a tiktok of the R&D of this kit. So i hope it goes through. It was mainly for the 2022 VB wrx tho but i couldn't imagine it would be hard to put on other cable driven transmissions

Is there actually any benefit to using a va wrx 6 speed other than cost? They use the same style clutch and there are kits being made to convert it to mechanical linkages. Other places say that it's just as fragile as the 5 speed but I haven't heard of any of the built fa20 guys complaining about blowing transmissions yet.

A buddy of mine put an evo 8 wing on his and I got to say it looked really good. He swore up and down that it used the factory deck lid holes so I would have to recheck his statement. I’ve see the va sti wing as well but that ironically is too massive for a car that’s now smaller than a wrx. if memory serves me right this used to be his car that showed up on marketplace again.

oh trust me I do, I shoot to check it every other day or at least before I start it after it sits a while. The oil consumption is not that bad any more since I've done valve covers and replaced the inlet with an oem one. I did skip out on cam seals unfortunately.

I’ll keep that advice on hand. I have other things on my plate before I worry about actually tuning this car. But she does see some good highway driving when she’s used.

Shortblock is plenty healthy. Thats what happens when you keep your engine stock and keep up with maintenance. Didn't expect the hostility when all I asked was a simple question. Just to clarify I was looking at just the bumper and maybe the spoiler.

Definitely running good, for now at least. Got it back to stock after one of the previous owners slapped a Cobb intake on it and didn’t tune or care for it what so ever. both bumpers are junk after it looks like the rear was replaced and whoever painted it needs to retire asap. Front bumper needs replaced since previous owner also self tapped an eBay lip to it and drove through PA with it and a chunk is nicked out of it due to a mishap with a pressure washer. Just looking at my options of something different. I was also debating on doing an outback swap on it.