RumblyXT Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Enlight said: Those marks are the TB guide are certainly interesting. Let us know how that oil pan looks, hoping it's as clean as you expected. Keeping my fingers crossed. Oil pan is empty btw.. I’m planning on swapping the ej255 pan since this one is slightly crushed on the bottom. Here’s some more detailed pics, notice the clear skid mark the T/B guide left on the middle of the belt. Edited February 27, 2023 by RumblyXT 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 31 minutes ago, KZJonny said: Man. So clean!! Jealous of that nice looking engine, and also the warmth of Florida right now. I generally do love cold weather, but it's annoying when you want to spend a day wrenching on something... Haha it’s really not that clean up top, actually quite dirty, seems it had some sort of oil leak by the PCV pipe.. and this motor more than likely was sprayed to clean before shipped. I love the FL weather, not going to lie, but I honestly wish I didn’t have to drive 6 hrs to see mountains. I very much enjoy the mountains, everything in FL is flat.. If I could do it all over again I’d pick Jacksonville or Savannah GA to live in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 (edited) I suspect I would like it in the Winter! I don't care for weather much above the high 20s C. If I could do it all over I would probably have tried harder to find work in the PNW when I was done my contract there... Or maybe have gone underground in New Zealand and never left. Probably NZ. Every corner you turn there is some kind of crazy JDM Subaru of some flavour burbling around. Edited February 27, 2023 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 (edited) New Zealand is imo one of the most beautiful, breath taking countries in the world.. This seems like an awesome website for sorting JDM parts: https://iatuning.com/ Edited February 27, 2023 by RumblyXT 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 Will be doing the leak down test soon. What’s the best way for finding TDC on a particular cylinder? I guess I can always watch down the spark plug hole with a flash light as I turn the motor and periodically check as that piston goes to TDC.. I really wish I could also do the compression test, but I don’t have a flywheel to crank the motor.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Short of finding the correct informtion about where timing marks are that indicate TDC, you can always use the engine stand to turn the engine on it’s side and use something non-marring (chopstick, plastic rod, etc….) inserted down the spark plug hole and watch it rise as you slowly turn the engine over. When it reaches the top of it’s motion, stop and do the leakdown test. Yeah, it’s totally shadetree, but if you turn the engine a few degrees past TDC, the valves will still be fully seated as long as that cylinder was on compression stroke. You can also pull the valve covers to observe that cam lobes are not touching the buckets. Leakdown test just needs the valves to be fully seated. Piston position isn’t critical since it is pressure *loss* you’re looking for, not absolute pressure generated. (Per compression test.) Fingers crossed for ya dude! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 Perfect KZJonny! I understand it now. Thank you Sir! 1,000 psi here it goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 On 2/22/2023 at 5:50 PM, RumblyXT said: Yeah, I will need to remove the left intake cam gear to get to that one. I'm not taking any more chances on oil starvation anywhere, I rather change the oil every 3K miles too. Getting there.. what did you think of the setup I have in mind on before the pics.. someone else mentioned not to go that route since then I'd have to deal with the buckets and valve lashing. Your going to have to pull all the cam gears regardless I think cause you need to swap the exhaust cams, and the front cam cap is for both intake and exhaust, and I believe you have to remove the cam cover to service all that because you are going to have to use sealant to seal the front cam cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 J/k I know it's just 100.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Since you gotta pull the cam gears, you might as well just do the leakdown when the belt is off and the cams are out cause the valves will be shut or you can spin the camshaft until its in a free position, rather than all that fuckery..... I realized this fact after I did what you are about to do, I was like I had the perfect opportunity to do a leakdown instead of spinning the crank until it sealed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 3 minutes ago, Tehnation said: Your going to have to pull all the cam gears regardless I think cause you need to swap the exhaust cams, and the front cam cap is for both intake and exhaust, and I believe you have to remove the cam cover to service all that because you are going to have to use sealant to seal the front cam cap. Oh shoot.. you're right about this.. I have no way of removing that left banjo bolt behind the left Intake sprocket unless it comes out.. aargh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Do the leakdown after you pull the timing belt to save yourself time and effort. Also make sure the crankshaft gear mark lines up with the block mark before you remove the belt to make sure your valves don't smack a piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 Looks like I'll be needing more tools.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Tehnation said: Do the leakdown after you pull the timing belt to save yourself time and effort. Also make sure the crankshaft gear mark lines up with the block mark before you remove the belt to make sure your valves don't smack a piston. You mean before pulling the T/B.. right? Timing is set with the rectangular mark or the triangle one? This is how I have it now btw.. Edited February 28, 2023 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 No , after! When you line up those marks, like you have it, the pistons are all at the same position mid stroke, and out of range of the valves. When you pull the timing belt all the tension on the valves are relieved so they all close shut! When you do a leakdown you want all the valves shut, and being that u HAVE to pull the timing belt , might as well do the leakdown after because it will shut all the valves for you, meaning you don't have to spin the crank to find the spot when it seals. This way u KNOW they are shut and you will have the most accurate reading. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 18 minutes ago, RumblyXT said: Looks like I'll be needing more tools.. I got a set of cheap company 23 china knockoffs from amazon for like 20 or 30 bucks each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 Ok, got it.. all valves will shut close.. But isn't it required for each piston to be individually set at TDC for the leak down test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Not really , the leakdown is the best test , better than a compression test cause it will tell you WHERE your leaking based on where you hear the air leaking. The air can leak from 3 places, the piston rings, exhaust valves or intake valves. If you hear air coming out the block or oil filler then your piston rings are leaking, if you hear it coming from the intake side of head your intake valves are leaking , and if you hear it coming out the exhaust side of head your exhaust valves are leaking. Where the piston is doesn't really matter, its testing how much air escapes over time. You worry about the tdc stuff when you got the timing intact and your looking for when the valves are all shut, but no timing belt = all valves shut. people don't want to pull the timing belt to do a leakdown test if the motor is in the car. You got the motor out so things are different versus working on a motor in a car. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 1 minute ago, Tehnation said: Not really , the leakdown is the best test , better than a compression test cause it will tell you WHERE your leaking based on where you hear the air leaking. The air can leak from 3 places, the piston rings, exhaust valves or intake valves. If you hear air coming out the block or oil filler then your piston rings are leaking, if you hear it coming from the intake side of head your intake valves are leaking , and if you hear it coming out the exhaust side of head your exhaust valves are leaking. Where the piston is doesn't really matter, its testing how much air escapes over time. Perfect! Apply 100 psi to each cylinder individually and watch the right gauge needle drop for leakage/listen for air escaping.. Is there a range for air loss I should be looking for? If I remember correctly, it was something like 7% that it shouldn't drop below, so technically should stay at 93psi or higher correct? Man, I'd love to get a hold of that JDM FSM.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 (edited) I haven't removed the front plate on the exhaust cam gear, but I think this is the tool I need. I will start praying to the Subaru Gods those cam bolts are easy to remove! I have seen the horror stories lol If not, extractor is the way.. Edited February 28, 2023 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 (edited) Hopefully you have an easy time with all those tools, but I was able to get three with the old timing belt trick and a breaker bar. Drilled out the last one which really wasn’t so bad at all. It would be a horror show in car, but since you’ve got the engine on a stand, piece of cake. Almost forgot. I don’t know the spec for acceptable leakdown loss, but less than 7% is a good place to start. Engine will be cold etc…. So it might be a higher number than you want, but not as relevant as it would be under precisely correct testing conditions. Having consistency between cylinders is still more important (like compression testing). If one of those things is not like the others…. That’ll be you indicator that something isn’t right. Edited February 28, 2023 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 just smack it with an impact wrench that has a lot of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Tehnation said: just smack it with an impact wrench that has a lot of torque. My 500+lb electric impact wasn't able to do it… full charge on the biggest 8ah battery I had. 24” breaker bar was bending under the strain, and it took me basically doing a squat and press to crack them loose! I agree with you in general, but sometimes that just isn’t always going to work. Granted, mine had been sitting under a tarp corroding for quite a while…. Edited February 28, 2023 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 you need a 1000 ft/lb+ , Im talking the big boy stuff! I think my gun has a max of 1200 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 39 minutes ago, Tehnation said: you need a 1000 ft/lb+ , Im talking the big boy stuff! I think my gun has a max of 1200 lbs. Hey dude. Totally fair enough. But not all of us DO have one of those! Just offering up other ways of doing it that get the job done with what you got, or can pick up for not too much money. I've been using my Bosch 1/2" Impact (official rating 500ft/lbs, tho I suspect it is better than that on a fresh, large battery) for a few years now, and there is *very* little it hasn't been able to do. For a hobby mechanic on a budget, spending another $5-600 for the 1000+ ft lb tool that is only needed once in a while doesn't make a lot of sense. Sounds like Rumbly is willing to spend where needed, but this is also a bit of a budget build. That is a lot of coin for a tool that would be needed for 4 bolts on this project?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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