Stage 2-ish '07 spec.B Build Next Steps - Seeking Detailed Guidance

[darkstarxi]

I recently had my '07 spec.B with an unmodified VF46 preliminarily road tuned and am looking to wrap up my build before I get a final dyno tune. The car and motor have about 125k miles on them and the turbo was replaced with a brand new one from IHI at around 105k miles. The goals are reliability and stability more so than high boost or high HP, although I of course would like to take advantage of what's on the car power wise.

 

I would like for the tuner to be able to dial in the tune without any obstacles. I want room for him to be comfortable tuning without restriction but I'm not necessarily looking for room to be able to upgrade the turbo or build the car for more power in the future. I'm certain that I do not wish to build the car further after this dyno tuning. I'm welcoming and encouraging of all perspectives.

 

The current relevant mod list is:

- COBB Accessport V3

- AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump

- AVO Power Air Intake & Cold Air Induction Box w/ K&N Air Filter

- AVO Turbo Inlet

- CNT Racing High Flow Catted Split Bellmouth 3” Downpipe/Midpipe w/ Ground Down Bellmouth Divider for Wastegate Clearance

- Fast Motorsports 3” Catback Exhaust

- GrimmSpeed 3-Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid

- GrimmSpeed Top Mount Intercooler

 

The list of work currently being considered before dyno tuning is:

1) Replace TGV to Intake Manifold Gaskets - This has to be done because they're leaking a bit and affecting AFR. What else can/should I do while I'm in there that will help me meet my goals?

 

2) Upgrade fuel injectors - Tuner advised that my injectors are old and that they're at 78% duty cycle at 6600 RPM in third gear. He considers these injectors static or uncontrolled in the 80-85% range and strongly advises upgrading them so that he's not limited by their (potential?) shortcomings when dyno tuning. His recommendation is Injector Dynamics 1050X injectors. What's the consensus on this? Are these overkill? Is there a better alternative for my goals?

 

3) Replace any vacuum/PCV hoses that look like they've seen better days - This has to be done because several hoses are showing signs of cracking. Again, what else can/should I do while I'm in there that will help me meet my goals?

 

4) Install turbo heat shield - I'm currently running without one, I don't have my stock one anymore, and tuner says he wants to see one on there before dyno tuning. I'm planning on the GrimmSpeed 092007 Version 2 Heat Shield. He recommended the Cobb shield. What's the consensus on this? Is one better than the other? Is there a better alternative? Does it make a difference? Is this even necessary?

 

5) Replace turbo oil return hose - This has to be done because it's leaking. It looks like a pretty miserable project. Any recommendations on upgrades instead of putting another shitty factory one with shitty clamps on there? Any recommendations on how to best approach this to make it a less miserable project?

 

6) Replace oil pan, pickup, etc. - My oil pan is dented and tuner advised that these oil pickups are at high risker of failure. Originally, I was going to look for an aftermarket pickup and just put a new OE pan on there, but I'm now considering the IAG ENG-2201SL IAG EJ Street Series Oil Pan Package (Silver Pan / Pickup / Street Baffle / Windage Tray). I figure if I'm going through the process, I might as well upgrade in this area. Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

7) Upgrade exhaust manifolds & crosspipe - I'm not really sure if this is justifiable but I'm probably going to have this all off when I'm doing the oil pan work (and maybe the turbo oil return hose too). Was considering it for reliability/preventative maintenance reasons more than anything. I was considering going with the CNT Racing HD-9727 V3 Equal Length Header (cheap). Tuner advises not to bother because there will be no benefit upgrading header & crosspipe w/ factory VF46 and the factory manifolds are less prone to failure than most/all aftermarket headers anyway (especially cheap ones). What's the consensus on this, given my current mod list and the plans listed here? I've seen mention of reliability benefits with going equal length, which is maybe more why I'm considering it than any other reason.

 

8) Install iWire PP-SUWB001 AEM Wideband X Line Series with iWire PnP - Tuner advises installing wideband to be able to better dial in the tune. He recommended an AEM UEGO and I found this setup that looks to be the way to go. Are there any better options or alternatives to this? Should this be necessary to get a really good tune?

 

9) Relocate IAT from MAF to intercooler - Tuner's recommendation. He says to use the iWire/AEM IAT sensor & wiring harness kit and put the bung on the D/S intercooler tank. He says it makes for better tuning capability. Thoughts on this? Are there any better options or alternatives to this? Should this be necessary to get a really good tune?

 

10) Go flex fuel - Tuner's recommendation. He's very big on flex fuel and advises COBB kit. I'm really not interested in doing this but could be talked into it if it's justifiable. He says that even if I'm not interested, the gained ability to run the COBB fuel pressure sensor kit on my custom features map is beneficial. What is the consensus on this? Seems to me like it's not worth it, given my goals, but I'd like to hear what others think.

 

11) AOS - Tuner's recommendation. He strongly advises using the Moroso large can AOS kit. Based on my research, an AOS isn't justifiable given my build and goals, but he feels otherwise. What's the consensus on this? I was looking at the IAG AOS if anything - really not sure.

 

I'm also open to any additional suggestions given my goals. Thank you in advance to anyone who takes the time to read all of this and advise.

[Rusty9]

1) whatever else looks old/crusty/brittle. there's nothing specific that just "goes bad" (maybe head gaskets lol)

 

2)1050 injectors are overkill for the stock turbo but nothing wrong with them, they are high quality and plentiful.

 

3) replace anything that looks old/crusty/brittle

 

4) heat shield good. doesn't matter what brand. even the stock one is fine.

 

5) stock replacement line is fine.

 

6) bare minimum replace the pickup tube. killer b, moroso, whatever. all are better than the stock one.

 

7) headers up to you, might get slightly quicker turbo spool, but at stock power levels/turbo the stock headers are fine for the job.

 

8) a wideband A/F is always better for tuning. again its not going to give you a significant improvement but it is future proofing and gives the tuner more flexibility and accurate feedback for his tune

 

9) not necessary, but it is logical to assume that a temp reading after the intercooler is better than at the airbox. typically this is done for higher power/boost applications where a few degrees might matter.

 

10) flex fuel, again, is better for high power/boost. entirely subjective to fuel availability in your area. are you drag racing?

 

11) IAG street series AOS should be standard on every turbo subaru =)

 

In summary, since you are staying stock turbo and don't want to go any further than where you are, just stick with the maintenance items. all the other stuff will help you meek out some extra HP, but nothing significant.

 

New stock maintenance/wear items (hoses, gaskets, etc), stock oilpan with aftermarket pickup, AOS, and wideband for your tuner.

[Tehnation]

You should change the pipe between the turbo and the turbo return hose as well. Along with that gasket, thats probably whats leaking.

[Max Capacity]

I don't see a clutch and flywheel on your list.

[Pleides]

If you are doing the TGV to IM gaskets, I'd probably do IAG TGV deletes. Just my opinion. Getting rid of a random part that tends to fail in old age wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

If you're doing that, you're taking the intake manifold off and probably going to have a way easier time doing the ID1050X install as that's a whole top-feed injector conversion and it's work (unless the 07 Spec B is already topfeed, which it may be, so my apologies). They're great and they're commonly recommended when out of fuel on stock injectors. I don't think you'll run out of fuel on a VF46 but you should probably replace them in their age, or at least have them cleaned. If you plan to run more power down the line then it's a good idea to replace them with something that can flow more.

 

If you're replacing the oil line to the turbo (they do tend to leak) then perhaps just get a new OEM one unless you plan on putting a BNR turbo on (a direct upgrade would be a BNR16G or 18G) since they require some sort of oil feed line of their own. If you're sticking with IHI turbos then the factory oil line is fine. Make sure to remove your banjo bolt filters if you haven't already.

 

Your tuner is right about the rest of your exhaust. I would leave it all stock on your car. ELH also get rid of the token Subaru rumble.

Edited January 19, 2022 by Pleides

[darkstarxi]

1) whatever else looks old/crusty/brittle. there's nothing specific that just "goes bad" (maybe head gaskets lol)

 

2)1050 injectors are overkill for the stock turbo but nothing wrong with them, they are high quality and plentiful.

 

3) replace anything that looks old/crusty/brittle

 

4) heat shield good. doesn't matter what brand. even the stock one is fine.

 

5) stock replacement line is fine.

 

6) bare minimum replace the pickup tube. killer b, moroso, whatever. all are better than the stock one.

 

7) headers up to you, might get slightly quicker turbo spool, but at stock power levels/turbo the stock headers are fine for the job.

 

8) a wideband A/F is always better for tuning. again its not going to give you a significant improvement but it is future proofing and gives the tuner more flexibility and accurate feedback for his tune

 

9) not necessary, but it is logical to assume that a temp reading after the intercooler is better than at the airbox. typically this is done for higher power/boost applications where a few degrees might matter.

 

10) flex fuel, again, is better for high power/boost. entirely subjective to fuel availability in your area. are you drag racing?

 

11) IAG street series AOS should be standard on every turbo subaru =)

 

In summary, since you are staying stock turbo and don't want to go any further than where you are, just stick with the maintenance items. all the other stuff will help you meek out some extra HP, but nothing significant.

 

New stock maintenance/wear items (hoses, gaskets, etc), stock oilpan with aftermarket pickup, AOS, and wideband for your tuner.

 

Thank you for your input. I'm not drag racing - just a fun street car. Could you please provide a link or part number for the IAG Street Series AOS you've referred to?

 

You should change the pipe between the turbo and the turbo return hose as well. Along with that gasket, thats probably whats leaking.

 

Will look into this. Thanks.

 

I don't see a clutch and flywheel on your list.

 

Thanks. Clutch feels good right now. It may have been replaced at some point before I got the car - really not sure.

 

Down the line, I plan to do clutch/flywheel, both front axle seals, and rear main seal together as one big project - all three of those seals seem to be seeping at this time, but I intend to wait and do all of the trans related stuff together later on after dyno tuning. Can you make a recommendation on a clutch/flywheel setup? I was planning on getting an Exedy Stage 0 or Stage 1 kit.

 

If you are doing the TGV to IM gaskets, I'd probably do IAG TGV deletes. Just my opinion. Getting rid of a random part that tends to fail in old age wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

If you're doing that, you're taking the intake manifold off and probably going to have a way easier time doing the ID1050X install as that's a whole top-feed injector conversion and it's work (unless the 07 Spec B is already topfeed, which it may be, so my apologies). They're great and they're commonly recommended when out of fuel on stock injectors. I don't think you'll run out of fuel on a VF46 but you should probably replace them in their age, or at least have them cleaned. If you plan to run more power down the line then it's a good idea to replace them with something that can flow more.

 

If you're replacing the oil line to the turbo (they do tend to leak) then perhaps just get a new OEM one unless you plan on putting a BNR turbo on (a direct upgrade would be a BNR16G or 18G) since they require some sort of oil feed line of their own. If you're sticking with IHI turbos then the factory oil line is fine. Make sure to remove your banjo bolt filters if you haven't already.

 

Your tuner is right about the rest of your exhaust. I would leave it all stock on your car. ELH also get rid of the token Subaru rumble.

 

Thank you. I was planning on TGV deletes for exactly the reason you mentioned and also to clear up some space and tuner advised against it (probably for emissions reasons). He said that in these cars, the TGVs are active at more than just startup and that it's a common misconception because the older Subaru TGVs used to only be active at startup). If I do the TGV deletes, are there any supplementary parts recommended - phenolic gaskets or anything?

 

My car does already have factory top feeds and I believe I got all the banjo bolt filters already but I'll double check.

 

 

 

I thought of another couple of questions related to fuel if anyone can advise:

 

1) Is there any good reason to leave the metal covers in the way of the fuel injectors on? I plan to remove them when I do the fuel injectors unless it is advised against.

 

2) After looking at the COBB fuel pressure sensor kit mentioned by the tuner, it looks like I could install it without going flex fuel if I wanted to and it would be beneficial for the tuner to fine tune with. Is this correct, provided he uses a custom features map or is the functionality of this dependent on conversion to flex fuel?

Edited January 20, 2022 by darkstarxi

[shralp]

Based on your current parts and more importantly, your long term goals, you’re considering some things that you really don’t need.

 

Definitely replace any lines, vac or otherwise, that look like they need it. A properly functioning PCV system is more than fine for your car based on what your doing with it. Stay stock.

 

Keep your stock exhaust manifolds, you won’t see any gains going to headers and unless you spend big dollars you’ll get an inferior product.

 

Could swap in TGV deletes since you need to replace the gasket but if you didn’t need to do that, I’d suggest staying stock. Yes they “can” fail long term but there are lots and lots of high mileage Subys running around with them just fine. Again at this power level you won’t see any gains, just piece of mind.

 

New oil pick up is a good idea, just to ensure you didn’t get a bum OEM one that’s starting to fail. New fancy oil pan is totally pointless based on what your doing with the car, go OEM and spend your funds elsewhere. FYI the Moroso one is much less expensive than the Killer B one and perfectly fine.

 

ID 1050 injectors are a great choice but way more than you need on a VF-46. No idea what your tuner means by “uncontrollable” there is plenty of injector there for a vF46 and there is nothing dangerous about an 85% duty cycle unless you have an exceedingly paranoid tuner with low confidence in his abilities. Your top feed unlike the ‘05-‘06 so the tuning issues some tuners had with older side feeds was alleviated. Wouldn’t go much over 85% but again, based on your goals for the car, if it’s cheaper to get them cleaned and flow tested, I’d do that. If you were moving to a VF52 or larger I’d have a different opinion

 

Relocating the IAT and putting in a wide band is total overkill for your build. Seems like your tuner is approaching this like a big power build and neither of these are needed based on your goals and parts.

 

Would definitely put a turbo heat shield back on, just too much heat coming off the turbo and your top mount intercooler will thank you. I’d take the money your not spending on your fancy oil pan and put a turbo blanket on WITH a heat shield as well. I’ve had both the Cobb and the GS. Both are fine.

 

Flex fuel is cool if your going to run E85 but again, are you? If not then it’s kinda pointless.

 

The main thing to keep in mind is to build for your goals for the car and unless you have lots of cash to bleed and don’t want to put that cash somewhere else, don’t spend where you don’t have to. The build sheet for my VF52 stg2 ‘08 Outback daily driver looks a lot different than my ‘05 GT wagon track car

Edited January 20, 2022 by shralp

[JoeInOregon]

Ok I'll be the one to say it. You're tuner sounds a little out of sync with your build , plans and goals.

 

Shop around

 

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[jams20]

Agree on the injector front. I have a similar build to yours and no need for more fuel at this power range. I second the injector cleaning. Pulled mine to get them cleaned. Improved flow 10-20% depending on the injector and improved spray pattern.

 

 

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[darkstarxi]

Based on your current parts and more importantly, your long term goals, you’re considering some things that you really don’t need.

 

Definitely replace any lines, vac or otherwise, that look like they need it. A properly functioning PCV system is more than fine for your car based on what your doing with it. Stay stock.

 

Keep your stock exhaust manifolds, you won’t see any gains going to headers and unless you spend big dollars you’ll get an inferior product.

 

Could swap in TGV deletes since you need to replace the gasket but if you didn’t need to do that, I’d suggest staying stock. Yes they “can” fail long term but there are lots and lots of high mileage Subys running around with them just fine. Again at this power level you won’t see any gains, just piece of mind.

 

New oil pick up is a good idea, just to ensure you didn’t get a bum OEM one that’s starting to fail. New fancy oil pan is totally pointless based on what your doing with the car, go OEM and spend your funds elsewhere. FYI the Moroso one is much less expensive than the Killer B one and perfectly fine.

 

ID 1050 injectors are a great choice but way more than you need on a VF-46. No idea what your tuner means by “uncontrollable” there is plenty of injector there for a vF46 and there is nothing dangerous about an 85% duty cycle unless you have an exceedingly paranoid tuner with low confidence in his abilities. Your top feed unlike the ‘05-‘06 so the tuning issues some tuners had with older side feeds was alleviated. Wouldn’t go much over 85% but again, based on your goals for the car, if it’s cheaper to get them cleaned and flow tested, I’d do that. If you were moving to a VF52 or larger I’d have a different opinion

 

Relocating the IAT and putting in a wide band is total overkill for your build. Seems like your tuner is approaching this like a big power build and neither of these are needed based on your goals and parts.

 

Would definitely put a turbo heat shield back on, just too much heat coming off the turbo and your top mount intercooler will thank you. I’d take the money your not spending on your fancy oil pan and put a turbo blanket on WITH a heat shield as well. I’ve had both the Cobb and the GS. Both are fine.

 

Flex fuel is cool if your going to run E85 but again, are you? If not then it’s kinda pointless.

 

The main thing to keep in mind is to build for your goals for the car and unless you have lots of cash to bleed and don’t want to put that cash somewhere else, don’t spend where you don’t have to. The build sheet for my VF52 stg2 ‘08 Outback daily driver looks a lot different than my ‘05 GT wagon track car

 

Thanks for your input. I very much agree that the tuner is approaching this like a big power build, despite me emphasizing my goals and intentions repeatedly - it's like we're not speaking the same language when it comes to discussing future plans and I have no idea why that is. The tuner I'm working with is a seemingly highly regarded Subaru-focused tuner in my area - the only one within a reasonable distance that I'm aware of - and he's about an hour from me. I know they deal with a lot of very high end builds - but this isn't that.

 

Could you recommend an injector that would give some more wiggle room without going all the way to 1050s - something more budget-friendly than the 1050s maybe?

 

Ok I'll be the one to say it. You're tuner sounds a little out of sync with your build , plans and goals.

 

Shop around

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

Thanks. Like I said to shralp, agreed about being out sync. I'm definitely not blind to that. Tuner seems to be treating this more like what he'd do to the car if it were his or if someone came to him with the car and a blank check and less like helping me get what I want out of the car. That's why I made this post - to try and get some (more realistic) perspectives and advice from you folks.

 

I definitely value the insurance / peace of mind that comes with some of his suggestions because as I've said to him and to you guys, I'm looking for reliability and stability, but I need help deciphering what coverage is worth the cost of the policy.

 

Agree on the injector front. I have a similar build to yours and no need for more fuel at this power range. I second the injector cleaning. Pulled mine to get them cleaned. Improved flow 10-20% depending on the injector and improved spray pattern.

 

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Thanks for your input. Where did you have them cleaned?

[NORULZleggy]

Ok I'll be the one to say it. You're tuner sounds a little out of sync with your build , plans and goals.

 

Shop around

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

I would have to agree with Joe. My builder and tuner told me many things I did not need to buy and get. Saved me a ton of money. I even wanted to go flex fuel, and he was like you can but it's not really worth it. I am on 93 and I put down many cars that are supposed to be big number cars.

[Code]

A lot of his suggestions require more supporting mods than you have listed too. If you tell us what you’re looking for, this group can give you a pretty good recipe to follow.

 

 

Cobb FF/fuel pressure setup requires TGV Deletes so you have the each inputs available. Also needs fuel pump and wiring upgrade.

 

Moving your IAT Sensor is great if you’re running Speed/Density or hybrid-MAF, otherwise WHY?

 

Wideband O2? Any good tuner will have one available to use for the tuning process- then it’s just for monitoring purposes.

 

Boom - just saved you a few grand

Edited January 21, 2022 by Code

[darkstarxi]

I would have to agree with Joe. My builder and tuner told me many things I did not need to buy and get. Saved me a ton of money. I even wanted to go flex fuel, and he was like you can but it's not really worth it. I am on 93 and I put down many cars that are supposed to be big number cars.

 

Thank you. I also agree with Joe and the bulk of you. That's why I'm here - seeking advice on how to get to where I want without spending more money or effort than necessary. I'm my builder and my tuner has not provided that courtesy.

 

A lot of his suggestions require more supporting mods than you have listed too. If you tell us what you’re looking for, this group can give you a pretty good recipe to follow.

 

 

Cobb FF/fuel pressure setup requires TGV Deletes so you have the each inputs available. Also needs fuel pump and wiring upgrade.

 

Moving your IAT Sensor is great if you’re running Speed/Density or hybrid-MAF, otherwise WHY?

 

Wideband O2? Any good tuner will have one available to use for the tuning process- then it’s just for monitoring purposes.

 

Boom - just saved you a few grand

 

Noted and thanks for the knowledge! I think I made it pretty clear in the OP what I'm looking for - happy to answer any questions you may have to further clarify so you can advise appropriately. I'd love to hear some recipe suggestions.

 

I'm considering doing TGV deletes to save having to worry about them possibly failing later - and to clean up some clutter in the engine bay. I believe I have the appropriate fuel pump for flex fuel, but I don't particularly want to go that route anyway.

 

He put me on a custom features map so maybe he wants the relocated IAT so that he can tune with speed/density or hybrid MAF - not quite sure why he wants to do that, but I can't say I'm terribly surprised.

 

Agreed on the wideband. I guess he can't datalog wideband data without the iWire kit and that's what he'd like to be able to do.

[shralp]

Thanks for your input. I very much agree that the tuner is approaching this like a big power build, despite me emphasizing my goals and intentions repeatedly - it's like we're not speaking the same language when it comes to discussing future plans and I have no idea why that is. The tuner I'm working with is a seemingly highly regarded Subaru-focused tuner in my area - the only one within a reasonable distance that I'm aware of - and he's about an hour from me. I know they deal with a lot of very high end builds - but this isn't that.

 

Could you recommend an injector that would give some more wiggle room without going all the way to 1050s - something more budget-friendly than the 1050s maybe?

 

 

 

Thanks. Like I said to shralp, agreed about being out sync. I'm definitely not blind to that. Tuner seems to be treating this more like what he'd do to the car if it were his or if someone came to him with the car and a blank check and less like helping me get what I want out of the car. That's why I made this post - to try and get some (more realistic) perspectives and advice from you folks.

 

I definitely value the insurance / peace of mind that comes with some of his suggestions because as I've said to him and to you guys, I'm looking for reliability and stability, but I need help deciphering what coverage is worth the cost of the policy.

 

 

 

Thanks for your input. Where did you have them cleaned?

 

Good to see that you’re recognizing that your kinda being oversold on your goals. It’s hard for some tuners to get their head wrapped around someone that’s not trying to go whole hog.

 

As for injectors, the price between a smaller injector and a larger one unfortunately is pretty negligible. Honestly, if your just sticking with a VF46 you really don’t need more injector anyway, the turbo doesn’t really need it as it’s quite small. I’d go the cleaning and flow test route and put them back in, (send them off to Deatschwerks for this).

[shralp]

$29 bucks per injector https://deatschwerks.com/pages/injector-services

[Rusty9]

Thank you for your input. I'm not drag racing - just a fun street car. Could you please provide a link or part number for the IAG Street Series AOS you've referred to?

 

This should be the one

 

https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-performance-v3-street-series-air-oil-separator-aos-for-2008-14-subaru-impreza-wrx-2008-20-sti/

[JoeInOregon]

If you are doing the wrenching a remote tune might be the way to go.

 

You won't get the Dyno sheet , with a good tuner you definitely get a good tune.

 

I have always done it this way with my VAG cars but now I have a great shop down the road.

 

You can get to your goals for way less than it's going to cost you the suggested route.

 

In my experience remote tunes are also nice if you do your own mechanical work , you don't end up needing extra Dyno time and tune sessions to chase gremlins

 

 

 

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[jams20]

Injector cleaning: a local outfit I found via a google search. I live in Portland, OR. More than happy to give you the name if your close.

 

If you live in a city I imagine you have them to or you can send them off like mentioned previously. It was about $20/injector if memory serves.

 

 

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[darkstarxi]

I see that Cryotune Performance and Tuning Alliance appear to be two forum favorites for remote tuning. Is that accurate?

 

One of my concerns is that remote tuners don't see or necessarily concern themselves with modifications done for reliability. For example, it seems unlikely that a remote tuner would have tipped me off to the oil pickup issue. The tuner I used up until now did a "pre-tune check" and one of the things he recommended as a result was the pickup tube. My top concern is reliability so if there's anything else like that I should know about, I want to make sure I'm aware of it so I can take care of it.

 

I will take some time over the next couple of days to think all this through and put together a new To Do list for review. Thank you all again for your input.

[shralp]

Good move, yes both TA and Cryo are highly respected remote tuners on here. Lots of guys have used them with good results. By all means when it comes to parts selection based on your goals, feel free to ask your tuner what they prefer but don’t be afraid to ask around to see what others are running with good success. This forum is one of those resources but definitely not the only one.

 

Also, the tuner, the one actually creating your Accessport map, doesn’t need to factor into your actual parts decisions necessarily. They just need to know what you’ve done to the car, i.e.- “you’ve upgraded your valve train so I’m comfortable raising your redline 500 rpm to accommodate the increased efficiency of your larger turbo”. Your concern with them is the quality tune at the end of the day. Plenty of other reputable sources can help you select a cohesive parts build for your goals. Don’t be afraid to remote tune if you’re not comfortable with your local resources

Edited January 22, 2022 by shralp

[Enlight]

There's no doubt having another set of eyes on your car can help to uncover issues more quickly. That said, there is also a lot of knowledge on common problems this forum has consolidated into a few threads (Reliability Modifications, Web links for various parts, What did you do today(most active thread, good for quick questions)) - this is a 15 year old platform so there's little you will meet that other members haven't already. The oil pickup issue, for example, is number 3 on the Reliability Mod thread.

 

I had my car tuned by Mike at Tuning Alliance in person, and also had touch ups done remotely. I can tell you that is he very responsive over e-mail and comes with good recommendations from other forum members.

 

If you are inclined to be DIY and have the patience to figure things out, I would go the remote route. If you really value having another set of eyes on your car, and are willing to give up some autonomy to go with your tuner's plans, go with the tuner.

 

Welcome to the forum and share some pics!

[whitexc]

It appears you have a good stance on where you want the car to end up. I am towards the end of a refresh/stage 2 build on my 2009 and longevity/reliability were my main goals. In doing some of the longevity mods you turn the corner from stock into a staged build but if done correctly should yield good results. These cars are money pits for sure but go find any enthusiast type thing(car, truck, boat, bike) that isn't a money pit once you get into aftermarket parts and performance. I will give a quick breakdown of my build.

 

-New OEM shortblock from Crawford

-Heads redone by local machine shop w/New guides, seals, etc.

-ARP head studs

-New OEM oil cooler and oil pump

-killer B oil pickup

-cylinder 4 cooling mod

-Aisan timing kit with new water pump and OEM t stat

-all OEM gaskets and seals throughout except for exhaust stuff which was Grimspeed

-Crawford AOS stage 2 Street setup

-IAG turbo oil feed lines(not needed but...)

-air pump delete(lose some weight, free up some space and have your tuner take care of business)

-stock fueling(have AEM320 pump on the shelf once break in is complete per TA)

-JMP custom VF46(for details send a pm or contact him but it's nice, very nice)

-bulletproofed tmic which will be next to go

-Cobb 2" UP

-Cobb 3" catted DP(slushomatic)

-NGK plugs(one step colder)

-lots of vacuum hoses replaced, zip tied

-E tune through Mike @ Tuning Alliance

 

My pvc set up and OEM turbo inlet have about 15k miles on them.

 

There may be some other tidbits I am forgetting but you get the idea. I also did a full brake job with Goodridge stainless lines. The car runs very good and pulls nicely for the little but i have tried. There are small bumps in the road but I feel with some good datalogs and Mike's tuning skills that everything will get straightened out.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Edited January 22, 2022 by whitexc

[shralp]

It appears you have a good stance on where you want the car to end up. I am towards the end of a refresh/stage 2 build on my 2009 and longevity/reliability were my main goals. In doing some of the longevity mods you turn the corner from stock into a staged build but if done correctly should yield good results. These cars are money pits for sure but go find any enthusiast type thing(car, truck, boat, bike) that isn't a money pit once you get into aftermarket parts and performance. I will give a quick breakdown of my build.

 

-New OEM shortblock from Crawford

-Heads redone by local machine shop w/New guides, seals, etc.

-ARP head studs

-New OEM oil cooler

-killer B oil pickup

-cylinder 4 cooling mod

-Aisan timing kit with new water pump and OEM t stat

-all OEM gaskets and seals throughout except for exhaust stuff which was Grimspeed

-Crawford AOS stage 2 Street setup

-IAG turbo oil feed lines(not needed but...)

-air pump delete(lose some weight, free up some space and have your tuner take care of business)

-stock fueling(have AEM320 pump on the shelf once break in is complete per TA)

-JMP custom VF46(for details send a pm or contact him but it's nice, very nice)

-bulletproofed tmic which will be next to go

-Cobb 2" UP

-Cobb 3" catted DP(slushomatic)

-NGK plugs(one step colder)

-lots of vacuum hoses replaced, zip tied

 

There may be some other tidbits I am forgetting but you get the idea. I also did a full brake job with Goodridge stainless lines. The car runs very good and pulls nicely for the little but i have tried. There are small bumps in the road but I feel with some good datalogs and Mike's tuning skills that everything will get straightened out.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Good example of a reliable, well thought out stg2 build right here without going over the top…

[darkstarxi]

Just made a "showoff" thread here for anyone interested.

 

The long "To Do" list I've put together to wrap up this project is below. Feedback is encouraged. Thanks in advance!

 

Sooner

 

1) Address slightly overfilled brake & clutch fluid while intercooler is removed (easier access)

 

2) Address slightly underfilled trans/front diff (& possibly rear diff) fluid while intercooler is removed (easier access)

 

3) Replace leaking TGV to intake manifold gaskets

• Subaru (4x) 14035AA492 gaskets

4) Remove TGVs & install TGV deletes as a preventative measure & to clean up engine bay

• Please confirm that the correct IAG part # for my car is IAG-AFD-3010

• Is it worth it to install the IAG 3mm or 8mm phenolic spacers?

5) Remove air injection system & install block-off plates as a preventative measure & to clean up engine bay

• Torque Solution TS-SU-111 block-off plates

• New Subaru gaskets for block-off plates

6) Have Dynamic Injector Service performed by Deatschwerks on aged stock fuel injectors

 

7) Remove fuel injector covers (& any other bits that unnecessarily clutter engine bay) permanently

 

8) Replace & zip tie any degraded vacuum, PCV, etc. hoses that weren’t already replaced and zip tied

 

9) Make sure OE PCV system is up to snuff

• PCV valve & some (all?) PCV hoses were replaced @ 105k miles

• What else can I do to make sure the OE PCV system is operating optimally? I don’t think I want to bother w/ an AOS unless I’d be foolish not to - it’s just a street car that sometimes gets driven spiritedly for short periods at a time + I’ve had the intercooler and associated couplers and the turbo inlet off a bunch of times and have never noticed any significant amount of oil in them

10) Install turbo heat shield

• Grimmspeed V2 (SKU: 092007) w/ black ceramic coating & both heat shield brackets

11) Replace turbo oil drain

• ATP OIL-024 High Temp Special Rubber Hose

• Two new constant tension spring clamps (not worm gear clamps offered by ATP)

12) Make sure that all banjo bolt filters have been removed

• I think I remember removing 2 of them @ 105k miles but will make sure I get any that I may have missed

13) Replace dented oil pan & potentially failing oil pickup

• Subaru 11109AA151 pan

• Moroso 24964 ($110) or 24965 ($115) OR Killer B 070-110 ($119) oil pickup

• Please confirm which Moroso part # is correct for my application

14) Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod

• Torque Solution TS-SU-585

15) Rear Differential Support Bushings

• Whiteline KDT905

16) Stainless Steel Brake Lines

• Looking for recommendation - StopTech? TechnaFit? GoodRidge? Part numbers?

17) Wheel Spacers

• Looking for recommendation - want to get a little wider stance on the spec.B wheels - nothing crazy

18) E-tune by Cryotune Performance or Tuning Alliance

 

Later

 

1) Replace clutch/flywheel w/ WRX single mass flywheel & Exedy Stage 1 clutch when clutch needs replacing

 

2) Replace both leaking transmission/front axle seals while doing clutch job

 

3) Replace leaking rear main seal/separator plate while doing clutch job

 

4) Replace ball joints w/ greasable MEVOTECH TXK9513 ball joints when current ball joints need replacing

 

5) Re-aim headlights

 

6) Decent car wash w/ underbody cleaning after all leaks are resolved

Edited January 26, 2022 by darkstarxi
Formatting

[Tehnation]

Hold on! I think we all overlooked the very basic 1st step! 125k miles on a stock motor, are you the original owner?

 

Before doing anything and spending money on things that could potentially KO your motor, I would do a compression and or leakdown test! Make sure that block is even healthy enough, if you don't have excellent to pretty good compression on every cylinder then I wouldn't even start until thats addressed first. You should have at least 130+ psi for every cylinder.

 

When I read that your rear main seal was leaking, that makes me think you should make sure you aren't going to put that last straw that broke the camels back with the extra power.

 

If your motor isn't in prime shape then your in for a world of hurt $$$ wise!

Edited January 27, 2022 by Tehnation